I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.

On 3/16/2012 7:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.

What is the amperage and voltage of the blower?

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:58:21 -0400, RBM wrote:

On 3/16/2012 7:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.

What is the amperage and voltage of the blower?

Voltage is 110 AC. No idea on the amps of the motor. No marking or
indication of amps.

On 3/16/2012 6:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.


Oren, a furnace fan is normally in a closed structure and the air flow
is restricted by opening sizes. RBM asked you about amp draw as this is
what you need to NOT exceed or you will toast your motor soon. I've
made quite a few of these for different people/reasons. You'll be
really close if you close off one side of the fan with a piece of peg
board, the other side can remain full open. The amp draw will be really
close.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

DanG wrote:
On 3/16/2012 6:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.


Oren, a furnace fan is normally in a closed structure and the air flow is
restricted by opening sizes. RBM asked you about amp draw as this is
what you need to NOT exceed or you will toast your motor soon. I've made
quite a few of these for different people/reasons. You'll be really
close if you close off one side of the fan with a piece of peg board, the
other side can remain full open. The amp draw will be really close.

Restriction should lessen amps.

Greg

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:25:10 -0500, DanG wrote:

On 3/16/2012 6:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.


Oren, a furnace fan is normally in a closed structure and the air flow
is restricted by opening sizes. RBM asked you about amp draw as this is
what you need to NOT exceed or you will toast your motor soon. I've
made quite a few of these for different people/reasons. You'll be
really close if you close off one side of the fan with a piece of peg
board, the other side can remain full open. The amp draw will be really
close.

Would I use peg board on the opposite side of the motor mounts as in
the photo above? I can fashion something like that. I've yet to
reduce the speed using the red / orange wires which is low-high /
low, respectively.

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 17:15:59 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:58:21 -0400, RBM wrote:

On 3/16/2012 7:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.

What is the amperage and voltage of the blower?

Voltage is 110 AC. No idea on the amps of the motor. No marking or
indication of amps.

Um, maybe measure it? ;-)

On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 00:49:40 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Oren, a furnace fan is normally in a closed structure and the air flow is
restricted by opening sizes. RBM asked you about amp draw as this is
what you need to NOT exceed or you will toast your motor soon. I've made
quite a few of these for different people/reasons. You'll be really
close if you close off one side of the fan with a piece of peg board, the
other side can remain full open. The amp draw will be really close.

Restriction should lessen amps.

Greg

Using this idea to restrict the air flow into the blower, could I get
/ go back to the high-speed (black wire) that I prefer?

Eventually this fan will be on a small dolly that I can wheel around
and use in various situations. Hopefully, have an on / off switch.

Also I would use hardware cloth to keep my fingers safe :-\

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 20:55:03 -0400, "
wrote:

Voltage is 110 AC. No idea on the amps of the motor. No marking or
indication of amps.

Um, maybe measure it? ;-)

Gosh dang it, now I need another tool. I'm dangerous when it comes to
electrical work. My policy is keep one hand in my pocket (G).

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 18:08:50 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 20:55:03 -0400, "
wrote:

Voltage is 110 AC. No idea on the amps of the motor. No marking or
indication of amps.

Um, maybe measure it? ;-)

Gosh dang it, now I need another tool.

Got $12?

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...ter-96308.html

I'm dangerous when it comes to electrical work. My policy
is keep one hand in my pocket (G).

Good policy, but if you were a real klutz you'd keep two hands in pockets.

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:21:28 -0400, "
wrote:

Um, maybe measure it? ;-)

Gosh dang it, now I need another tool.

Got $12?

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...ter-96308.html

I'm dangerous when it comes to electrical work. My policy
is keep one hand in my pocket (G).

Good policy, but if you were a real klutz you'd keep two hands in pockets.

I'm kicking myself now. I had a perfectly good clamp meter that sit
for years (decades), that I only used once. Sold it in a yard sale and
now regret doing so. Off to clip my HF 20% coupons. Thanks.

I do regret selling the meter I had. Can't borrow one from neighbors.

On 3/16/2012 4:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.
What you have is a standard furnace blower. I have the identical
fan/motor on my heat pump. I also found an identical blower a few years
ago in the metal bin at the local transfer station and snagged it to use
as a cooling fan for my business.

The capacitor is not a starting capacitor. It is in series with one
winding of the motor and is there all the time. The motor actually has 5
windings. Select one of the other 4 for speed control.

The heat problem is because the bearings are dirty and resist the fan
from running at the selected speed. Take it apart and clean it all. Then
either check the capacitor, or just replace it. They are common and
available on Ebay.

When clean and lubricated and with a good capacitor, the fan will run
forever without getting hot.

For the plant cooling fan, I covered the sides of the squirrel cage
openings with plastic mesh material to keep fingers and trash out of the
fan. I also built a steel stand with a pair of wheel to make moving it
around much easier.

I also found a rotary switch I could modify to allow selection of either
off or any of the 4 speeds. People almost never run it at high speed.
Blows TOO much air!

Good luck

Paul

Where I am, the largest furnace blower I see, is typicall 1/2 HP, which
should be 375 or so watts. Not a lot of oomph.

If the cord is getting hot, sounds like either the fan windings are bad, or
something is wired wrong. Of course, that might be the reason you found the
fan on the curb..... it's bad?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Oren" wrote in message
...


What is the amperage and voltage of the blower?

Voltage is 110 AC. No idea on the amps of the motor. No marking or
indication of amps.

The boys are trying to coach you to cover some of the air intake, so as to
reduce the air flow through the fan. This will have the result of lowering
the amperage. This is consitent with what I understand of such fans.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Oren" wrote in message
...

Oren, a furnace fan is normally in a closed structure and the air flow
is restricted by opening sizes. RBM asked you about amp draw as this is
what you need to NOT exceed or you will toast your motor soon. I've
made quite a few of these for different people/reasons. You'll be
really close if you close off one side of the fan with a piece of peg
board, the other side can remain full open. The amp draw will be really
close.

Would I use peg board on the opposite side of the motor mounts as in
the photo above? I can fashion something like that. I've yet to
reduce the speed using the red / orange wires which is low-high /
low, respectively.

On 3/16/2012 7:49 PM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
On 3/16/2012 6:45 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.


Oren, a furnace fan is normally in a closed structure and the air flow is
restricted by opening sizes. RBM asked you about amp draw as this is
what you need to NOT exceed or you will toast your motor soon. I've made
quite a few of these for different people/reasons. You'll be really
close if you close off one side of the fan with a piece of peg board, the
other side can remain full open. The amp draw will be really close.

Restriction should lessen amps.

Greg

Correct, the current will drop because the motor is doing less work. ^_^

TDD

On 3/16/2012 8:03 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 00:49:40 +0000 (UTC),
wrote:

Oren, a furnace fan is normally in a closed structure and the air flow is
restricted by opening sizes. RBM asked you about amp draw as this is
what you need to NOT exceed or you will toast your motor soon. I've made
quite a few of these for different people/reasons. You'll be really
close if you close off one side of the fan with a piece of peg board, the
other side can remain full open. The amp draw will be really close.

Restriction should lessen amps.

Greg

Using this idea to restrict the air flow into the blower, could I get
/ go back to the high-speed (black wire) that I prefer?

Eventually this fan will be on a small dolly that I can wheel around
and use in various situations. Hopefully, have an on / off switch.

Also I would use hardware cloth to keep my fingers safe :-\

If you put it on wheels, make sure they have locks on them or make some
little wheel chocks. ^_^

TDD

On 3/16/2012 8:08 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 20:55:03 -0400, "
wrote:

Voltage is 110 AC. No idea on the amps of the motor. No marking or
indication of amps.

Um, maybe measure it? ;-)

Gosh dang it, now I need another tool. I'm dangerous when it comes to
electrical work. My policy is keep one hand in my pocket (G).


Oren, with the peg board on one side, you sure can use the high speed or
any speed for that matter. The reason the cord was getting hot had to
do with excessive amp draw when the motor was allowed to run
unrestricted. The peg board is easier to mount on the side that does
NOT have the motor hanging on it. YOu will probably want to handle of
some type on the top as they are top heavy. It is really easy to mount
a handy box on the outside corner of the fan (pay attention to not
getting a screw in the fan cage). You can mount a multi speed switch or
simply a light switch for simple off and on. Be aware this is not a UL
approved assembly. Common sense and reasonable care on assembly will
give you a usable tool.

Measuring the amp draw of the unrestricted motor will not give you
useful information if you do not have the design amp draw for the motor.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

On Friday, March 16, 2012 7:45:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.

May be why its not used in a HVAC unit anymore

Jimmie

On Friday, March 16, 2012 7:45:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.



On Friday, March 16, 2012 7:45:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc.,
on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other
than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected
/checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25').
Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher
speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.

I used to use oe of those I mounted it in a plywood bood thaat held 4 big air filters. I would run it when I was doing something that made a lot of dust. Really helped to keep the shop clean.

Jimmie.

JIMMIE wrote in
news:22526460.154.1331996112185.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbtf26:

On Friday, March 16, 2012 7:45:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels,
etc., on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor
other than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet
connected /checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord
(25'). Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the
higher speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.



On Friday, March 16, 2012 7:45:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage
shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels,
etc., on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor
other than four speeds.

Pic sample: (like this)

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The
red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet
connected /checked).

The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and
the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on
the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot
(metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord.

My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord
(25'). Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord.

The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the
cord is what I want to eliminate.

Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?

If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the
higher speed (desert hot garage).

Ideas and help appreciated.

I used to use oe of those I mounted it in a plywood bood thaat held 4
big air filters. I would run it when I was doing something that made a
lot of dust. Really helped to keep the shop clean.

Jimmie.

I'm still using one of those. I bought a squirrel cage fan off Ebay(when
I got it, it was suitable for a raccoon), and built a box around it. I
use 2 sets of doubled-up 18x25"filters on it. Very nice, and quiet too.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Mar 16, 11:50*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Where I am, the largest furnace blower I see, is typicall 1/2 HP, which
should be 375 or so watts. Not a lot of oomph.

If the cord is getting hot, sounds like either the fan windings are bad, or
something is wired wrong. Of course, that might be the reason you found the
fan on the curb..... it's bad?

I'm down with the above. If 25ft of 12 gauge is getting
hot, something isn't right. Assuming of course this is a
typical home furnace blower. They only typically run a
15 amp circuit to the furnace, which means 14 gauge
should be plenty.






Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Oren" wrote in message

...



What is the amperage and voltage of the blower?

Voltage is 110 AC. *No idea on the amps of the motor. No marking or
indication of amps.

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 18:42:55 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:21:28 -0400, "
wrote:

Um, maybe measure it? ;-)

Gosh dang it, now I need another tool.

Got $12?

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...ter-96308.html

I'm dangerous when it comes to electrical work. My policy
is keep one hand in my pocket (G).

Good policy, but if you were a real klutz you'd keep two hands in pockets.

I'm kicking myself now. I had a perfectly good clamp meter that sit
for years (decades), that I only used once. Sold it in a yard sale and
now regret doing so. Off to clip my HF 20% coupons. Thanks.

Do the coupons work on sale items? Got any? I'm trekking down to Montgomery
to buy a tile saw tomorrow. The two models I'm interested in are already on
sale, but another 20% would pay for the gas. ;-)

I do regret selling the meter I had. Can't borrow one from neighbors.

Well, if you'd bring it back... ;-)

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:45:58 -0700, Oren wrote:

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

Thanks to everyone for the replies. The unit came from my home when I
had my entire HVAC unit replaced. I just removed the blower for use in
the garage. It worked fine - not a curbside picking.

I'll follow all the suggestions, measure amps, clean, cover the side,
etc....

Thanks again.

wrote:
On Mar 16, 11:50 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Where I am, the largest furnace blower I see, is typicall 1/2 HP,
which should be 375 or so watts. Not a lot of oomph.

If the cord is getting hot, sounds like either the fan windings are
bad, or something is wired wrong. Of course, that might be the
reason you found the fan on the curb..... it's bad?

I'm down with the above. If 25ft of 12 gauge is getting
hot, something isn't right. Assuming of course this is a
typical home furnace blower. They only typically run a
15 amp circuit to the furnace, which means 14 gauge
should be plenty.

I've never seen a home furnace fan that needed more than single digit amps.

When I changed my furnace, in 2004, I saved the blower. I used it a couple
times at the church, when I cleaned carpets. Made a nice carpet dryer. I
havn't checked the amp draw. I should.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:45:58 -0700, Oren wrote:

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg

Thanks to everyone for the replies. The unit came from my home when I
had my entire HVAC unit replaced. I just removed the blower for use in
the garage. It worked fine - not a curbside picking.

I'll follow all the suggestions, measure amps, clean, cover the side,
etc....

Thanks again.

On Friday, March 16, 2012 6:45:58 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc., on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other than four speeds. Pic sample: (like this) http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected /checked). The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot (metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord. My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25'). Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord. The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the cord is what I want to eliminate. Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem? If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher speed (desert hot garage). Ideas and help appreciated.

I have an old fan out of a Coleman furnace and these are the wires: red and orange coming out of the motor itself (used to go to a Molex plug) and a black and yellow coming out of a speed contol box but not otherwise connected to the motor (also used to go to the Molex plug.) Any clues on how to wire this dang thing up? Thanks...

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 15:22:21 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, March 16, 2012 6:45:58 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc., on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other than four speeds. Pic sample: (like this) http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected /checked). The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot (metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord. My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25'). Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord. The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the cord is what I want to eliminate. Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem?
If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher speed (desert hot garage). Ideas and help appreciated.

I have an old fan out of a Coleman furnace and these are the wires: red and orange coming out of the motor itself (used to go to a Molex plug) and a black and yellow coming out of a speed contol box but not otherwise connected to the motor (also used to go to the Molex plug.) Any clues on how to wire this dang thing up? Thanks...

You may be able to figure it out with an ohmmeter. Measure all
12 resistances, between every pair of wires. Make a table and write
them all down.

If none of measurements are infinite, assume there is one winding.
Find the highest resistance, and assume those two leads are each at
one end of the winding. Now these are *wind*ings, so the
resistance they show to a direct current ohmmeter is not the same as
the inductive impedance they show to alaternating current. The
latter includes the resistance but is higher.

So with a 110 volt a big fan motor might use 10 or more amps, and ...I
don't remember, maybe,... might show 10 or fewer ohms to the ohmeter.
That might be wrong -- you'll know when you measure it --, but I'll
assume 10 for the rest of the process. (I'm not going to try to
measure inducitve impedance, when most people, including me, only have
a resistance ohmmeter. )

So if the black and for example, yelllow, have 10 ohms between them,
what does the black have with the red and orange. Maybe 3 and 4.2.
And what does the yellow have between it and the red and orange.
Maybe 7 and 5.8. So that the total of the two segments, black to
red (3) and red to yellow (7) = 10. the resistance of the whole
thing***. See three stars below.

I don't want to connect the 110 volts across either 3 or 4.2 ohms. It
might burn out the wiring, and it's much more likely the complement of
those numbers is a usable resistance. So I'd rather connect the
voltage accors 5.8 ohms and 7 ohms (and 10 ohms) The only color that
will do this, as this story went, is Yellow. So try all three of
those pairs, yellow and orange, 5.8, yellow and red, ;7, and yellow
and black, 10, and that should give you slow, medium, and fast.

If it does, hook up a rotary switch of some sort to control your fan.


***If it doesn't work this way, if the numbers don't add up quite
close to 10, then maybe there are two or three windings. Let me know
if that's t he case and I'll t hink about what to measure next .

Even if colors are not standardized, I thought the number of windings
was, and I'll have to look at my furnace diagram to see how many
windings that motor has. Hmmm. Maybe it doesn't say. (It might just
have a circle for moter, I thought my fan made too much noise (ran
too fast) so despite the schematic, I connected the common wire to
each of the other two speeds. Unfortunately, they were even faster,
just as the diagram said they would be.

On 6/20/2013 3:22 PM, wrote:
On Friday, March 16, 2012 6:45:58 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
I'm converting a HVAC furnace blower fan (c1997 model) into a garage shop fan. Salvage from my house. There are no markings, labels, etc., on the motor for information. I know nothing about the motor other than four speeds. Pic sample: (like this)http://s.ecrater.com/stores/136988/4b04f808b9c5f_136988n.jpg The black wire is high speed, the blue wire is low-high speed. The red and orange wires are high-low or low speed (have not yet connected /checked). The high speed (black) gets hot as does the extension cord plugs and the metal cowling. Putting bigger gauge cords on I still get heat on the cord, 12 gauge (25'). Same with the blue wire, but not as hot (metal cowling cool) or as much heat on the cord. My next try is the high-low speed, same 12 gauge extension cord (25'). Then try the other speed, low, on the same cord. The motor has a start capacitor; the motor runs fine. Heat on the cord is what I want to eliminate. Any thought on using the high speed without the heat problem
? If I have to, I can settle for the lowest speed, but prefer the higher speed (desert hot garage). Ideas and help appreciated.

I have an old fan out of a Coleman furnace and these are the wires: red and orange coming out of the motor itself (used to go to a Molex plug) and a black and yellow coming out of a speed contol box but not otherwise connected to the motor (also used to go to the Molex plug.) Any clues on how to wire this dang thing up? Thanks...
I have the schematic from our Coleman heat/cool system. We have a 1982
mfg. home, so probably the same fan you have.

First, the capacitor is not a starting capacitor. It is a phase shift
capacitor that is always in the circuit. It will wear out and may need
to be replace occasionally.

the orange wire is common.

The yellow wire is heating speed.

The black wire is cooling speed.

The red wire is low speed.

The blue wire is medium-high speed.

Several years ago I retrieved a similar fan from the metal recycle bin
at the local transfer station. I welded up a frame to hold it and added
two wheels to move it. I bought a rotary switch on Ebay that I modified
to control the speed by switching power to each of the speed control
wires. It has an open position between each speed selection, so no two
wires are powered at the same time.

If you don't have a blue wire, then your fan is three speed.

If the motor doesn't seem to start really fast, replace the capacitor.

Good luck.

Paul

I converted an old blower motor as well but the motor gets very hot after about an hour or so of running. The cord doesn't get hot. I am 99% sure that its wired correctly. There are five wires plus a ground (C,1,2,3,4). See photo below. I bought a two speed switch and wired speeds 1 and 4.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TiN2LqiPGhs/U6HKV0mPGLI/AAAAAAAAB8I/HyYHHiYZZ6Y/w534-h712-no/1385931304185.jpg

The fan works great but just gets hot and has actually locked up once. Luckily I was right there and shut it off. At first I thought it might be a 220V motor but I can't find any indication of that anywhere (see photo below).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xsAKs5QHOf4/U6HKV9Y0QQI/AAAAAAAAB8I/C6hTXLAsBJY/w949-h712-no/IMG_20131201_154842.JPG

Then I thought it might need a capacitor but it was never wired for one. The fan spins freely so I don't think the bearings are going out but anything is possible. The fan was sitting in another garage for years and I don't think it was ever used for very long. I just don't know why its getting hot and has locked up once. Could it be that I need to restrict air flow like others have suggested? Is there something on the motor plate (photo) that I missed? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 1:29:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I converted an old blower motor as well but the motor gets very hot after about an hour or so of running. The cord doesn't get hot. I am 99% sure that its wired correctly. There are five wires plus a ground (C,1,2,3,4). See photo below. I bought a two speed switch and wired speeds 1 and 4.



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TiN2LqiPGhs/U6HKV0mPGLI/AAAAAAAAB8I/HyYHHiYZZ6Y/w534-h712-no/1385931304185.jpg



The fan works great but just gets hot and has actually locked up once. Luckily I was right there and shut it off. At first I thought it might be a 220V motor but I can't find any indication of that anywhere (see photo below).



https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xsAKs5QHOf4/U6HKV9Y0QQI/AAAAAAAAB8I/C6hTXLAsBJY/w949-h712-no/IMG_20131201_154842.JPG



Then I thought it might need a capacitor but it was never wired for one. The fan spins freely so I don't think the bearings are going out but anything is possible. The fan was sitting in another garage for years and I don't think it was ever used for very long. I just don't know why its getting hot and has locked up once. Could it be that I need to restrict air flow like others have suggested? Is there something on the motor plate (photo) that I missed? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
================================
what do you mean it locked up?

was it hard to turn by hand when it locked up.



If it locked up means it doesn't start correctly sometimes but will run if you start it by spinning it by hand, then it most probably needs a capacitor on one of the connections. Many larger motors need a cap to work correctly but will sort of work without one.

It says 120v in the pic so its not 220V.
Restricting the air is not the issue.

Mark

wrote:
On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 1:29:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I converted an old blower motor as well but the motor gets very hot after about an hour or so of running. The cord doesn't get hot. I am 99% sure that its wired correctly. There are five wires plus a ground (C,1,2,3,4). See photo below. I bought a two speed switch and wired speeds 1 and 4.



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TiN2LqiPGhs/U6HKV0mPGLI/AAAAAAAAB8I/HyYHHiYZZ6Y/w534-h712-no/1385931304185.jpg



The fan works great but just gets hot and has actually locked up once. Luckily I was right there and shut it off. At first I thought it might be a 220V motor but I can't find any indication of that anywhere (see photo below).



https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xsAKs5QHOf4/U6HKV9Y0QQI/AAAAAAAAB8I/C6hTXLAsBJY/w949-h712-no/IMG_20131201_154842.JPG



Then I thought it might need a capacitor but it was never wired for one. The fan spins freely so I don't think the bearings are going out but anything is possible. The fan was sitting in another garage for years and I don't think it was ever used for very long. I just don't know why its getting hot and has locked up once. Could it be that I need to restrict air flow like others have suggested? Is there something on the motor plate (photo) that I missed? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
================================
what do you mean it locked up?

was it hard to turn by hand when it locked up.



If it locked up means it doesn't start correctly sometimes but will run if you start it by spinning it by hand, then it most probably needs a capacitor on one of the connections. Many larger motors need a cap to work correctly but will sort of work without one.

It says 120v in the pic so its not 220V.
Restricting the air is not the issue.

Mark



Hi,
Being PSC motor the cap maybe going bad(heat sensitive) or it is wrong
value.

On Wed, 18 Jun 2014 10:29:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I converted an old blower motor as well but the motor gets very hot after about an hour or so of running. The cord doesn't get hot. I am 99% sure that its wired correctly. There are five wires plus a ground (C,1,2,3,4). See photo below. I bought a two speed switch and wired speeds 1 and 4.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TiN2LqiPGhs/U6HKV0mPGLI/AAAAAAAAB8I/HyYHHiYZZ6Y/w534-h712-no/1385931304185.jpg

The fan works great but just gets hot and has actually locked up once. Luckily I was right there and shut it off. At first I thought it might be a 220V motor but I can't find any indication of that anywhere (see photo below).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xsAKs5QHOf4/U6HKV9Y0QQI/AAAAAAAAB8I/C6hTXLAsBJY/w949-h712-no/IMG_20131201_154842.JPG

Then I thought it might need a capacitor but it was never wired for one. The fan spins freely so I don't think the bearings are going out but anything is possible. The fan was sitting in another garage for years and I don't think it was ever used for very long. I just don't know why its getting hot and has locked up once. Could it be that I need to restrict air flow like others have suggested? Is there something on the motor plate (photo) that I missed? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The motor is designed to be cooled by air moving through the air
handler cabinet. You now have it out in open air?? I'm assuming a belt
driven fan - not dierect drive? install a small fan blowing air over
the motor and it will LIKELY run constantly without overheating.

Before I did anything else, I would take the motor out of that blower housing and take it down to any electric motor rewinding shop.

I'm thinking the high amperage draw on high speed that's likely causing the black wire to heat up is caused by friction in the motor itself. Also, I'd clean up that impeller if it's dirty.

The rewinding shop will bench test the motor to see what current it draws on each of it's different speeds, and those results will tell you if the motor has high internal friction.

wrote in message
...

The motor is designed to be cooled by air moving through the air
handler cabinet. You now have it out in open air?? I'm assuming a belt
driven fan - not dierect drive? install a small fan blowing air over
the motor and it will LIKELY run constantly without overheating.

I go along with that. Most likely the motor needs air blowing over it to
keep it cool.