I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped. I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. I've attached a pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Thanks!

On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:40:13 -0800 (PST), Matt
wrote:

I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped.

You should be able to find a tapper at a reasonable charge. The Home
Depot parking lot is a good place to look, or Craigs list whereever au
peres are listed. When the burner is on and the blower should be
running, since he's in the basement, he can do laundry or something.

I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. I've attached a pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Should the lower limit switch really be set at 50? Or is that for AC
too? (I don't have a control like that, for some reason.)

I don't see the metal disk, but it seems if it sticks, one needs to
find where it sticks and either bend whatever it touches away from it,
or file down the disk a little at that point. But I have no idea how
your gizmo work or what I'm talking about. Except that filing seems
preferable to buying another one.

Thanks!

On Nov 5, 8:15*pm, mm wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:40:13 -0800 (PST), Matt
wrote:

I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. *After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. *If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. *Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped.

You should be able to find a tapper at a reasonable charge. *The Home
Depot parking lot is a good place to look, or Craigs list whereever au
peres are listed. *When the burner is on and the blower should be
running, since he's in the basement, he can do laundry or something.

I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? *The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. *I've attached a pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Should the lower limit switch really be set at 50? *Or is that for AC
too? *(I don't have a control like that, for some reason.)

I don't see the metal disk, but it seems if it sticks, one needs to
find where it sticks and either bend whatever it touches away from it,
or file down the disk a little at that point. *But I have no idea how
your gizmo work or what I'm talking about. * Except that filing seems
preferable to buying another one.





Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The contacts will spark from breaking the curent when the contact
opens as the temperature in the plenum gets cooler. The sparking
roughs up the surface causing little pits and valleys. Eventually the
pits stick in the valleys and the contact does not open. If you can
get near them, a women's emery stick for filing nails can be used to
smooth the surface and keep the switch working for several months. I
have to use an emery board on our 50 year-old gas furnace about every
2 years when the blower does not shut off after the air has cooled
(when on the Heat setting).

On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 22:15:12 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Nov 5, 8:15*pm, mm wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:40:13 -0800 (PST), Matt
wrote:

I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. *After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. *If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. *Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped.

You should be able to find a tapper at a reasonable charge. *The Home
Depot parking lot is a good place to look, or Craigs list whereever au
peres are listed. *When the burner is on and the blower should be
running, since he's in the basement, he can do laundry or something.

I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? *The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. *I've attached a pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Should the lower limit switch really be set at 50? *Or is that for AC
too? *(I don't have a control like that, for some reason.)

I don't see the metal disk, but it seems if it sticks, one needs to
find where it sticks and either bend whatever it touches away from it,
or file down the disk a little at that point. *But I have no idea how
your gizmo work or what I'm talking about. * Except that filing seems
preferable to buying another one.

Thanks!-

- Show quoted text -

The contacts will spark from breaking the curent when the contact
opens as the temperature in the plenum gets cooler. The sparking
roughs up the surface causing little pits and valleys. Eventually the
pits stick in the valleys and the contact does not open. If you can

Very interesting.

get near them, a women's emery stick for filing nails can be used to
smooth the surface and keep the switch working for several months. I

I thought emery sticks had sand on them that embedded in the contacts
and made them wear again faster than they would if filed with an all
metal file. At least that's what I recall from instructions on filing
contact points on auto distributor points and/or voltage regulators.

Wouldn't a metal file, like a point file (which is thin and fits
between contact points, be better, last longer.

have to use an emery board on our 50 year-old gas furnace about every
2 years when the blower does not shut off after the air has cooled
(when on the Heat setting).

How come no one's nagging you to get a new furnace when they used to
give me a hard time here for having a now-30-year-old oil furnace?

On Nov 5, 8:40*pm, Matt wrote:
I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. *After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. *If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. *Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped. *I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? *The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. *I've attached a pic athttp://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Thanks!

Hard to tell from the pics, but is your low limit set on 50? That
should be bumped up a little bit. Otherwise you are blowing 50 degree
air in your house. Maybe that is your problem, because the fan will
not shut off until the plenum cools off to 50 degrees. Try 75 degrees.

On Nov 6, 1:15*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Nov 5, 8:15*pm, mm wrote:



On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:40:13 -0800 (PST), Matt
wrote:

I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. *After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. *If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. *Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped.

You should be able to find a tapper at a reasonable charge. *The Home
Depot parking lot is a good place to look, or Craigs list whereever au
peres are listed. *When the burner is on and the blower should be
running, since he's in the basement, he can do laundry or something.

I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? *The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. *I've attached a pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Should the lower limit switch really be set at 50? *Or is that for AC
too? *(I don't have a control like that, for some reason.)

I don't see the metal disk, but it seems if it sticks, one needs to
find where it sticks and either bend whatever it touches away from it,
or file down the disk a little at that point. *But I have no idea how
your gizmo work or what I'm talking about. * Except that filing seems
preferable to buying another one.

Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The contacts will spark from breaking the curent when the contact
opens as the temperature in the plenum gets cooler. *The sparking
roughs up the surface causing little pits and valleys. *Eventually the
pits stick in the valleys and the contact does not open. *If you can
get near them, a women's emery stick for filing nails can be used to
smooth the surface and keep the switch working for several months. *I
have to use an emery board on our 50 year-old gas furnace about every
2 years when the blower does not shut off after the air has cooled
(when on the Heat setting).

Thanks for the advice Bob. Where are the contacts? Do I likely have
to take the fan/limit control off the furnace or take the whole thing
apart? No problem doing that, I just want to know what I'm looking
for.

Thanks

"Matt" wrote in message
...
I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped. I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. I've attached a pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Thanks!

You may not be able to get the exact part but a universal replacement part
can be purchased.

First I would move the low limit up to about 80 or 90 degrees like another
poster suggested.


Colbyt

"Matt" wrote in message
...
I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. After the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay running. If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. Then it may work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again and need
to be tapped. I assume that this is the part that needs to be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. I've attached a pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Thanks!

I'm with some of the other posters here... I think the control is misadjusted. That little metal
tab sticking out near the "50" marking controls when the fan turns on and off, and can be moved. 50
is way too low a setting, it should be closer to 100. The "Off On" markings under the word "Fan"
indicate the range where that is supposed to be.

Eric Law

I'm with some of the other posters here... I think the control is misadjusted. *That little metal
tab sticking out near the "50" marking controls when the fan turns on and off, and can be moved. *50
is way too low a setting, it should be closer to 100. *The "Off On" markings under the word "Fan"
indicate the range where that is supposed to be.

Eric Law

Okay, sorry I should have clarified before. I took the pic at a point
where I was experimenting with the adjustments. The metal tabs are
usually set around 130 (high) and 80 (low). I had pushed the lower
one down to 50 so that I could slowly move it up and see at which
point the blower shut off. The problem is that when it does stick, it
requires only the slightest touch to un-stick - so it's impossible to
hold the dial and move the tab without manually "unsticking" it. The
issue is definitely not the setting, since when I have it set on 80,
the blower continues to run until I manually unstick it - at one point
i was out of town and my wife said it ran for 2 days straight, and
upon coming home and measuring the temp of the air in the plenum, it
was much lower than 80.

So really I either need to replace it or file the contacts. I'd like
to try the filing, but can anyone tell me where the contacts are? If
I do need to replace it, can anyone tell me if it's a straighforward
replacement job?

Thanks

They are not made to be dissembled. Have to take the whole
fan limit switch out, and replace.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Matt" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the advice Bob. Where are the contacts? Do I
likely have
to take the fan/limit control off the furnace or take the
whole thing
apart? No problem doing that, I just want to know what I'm
looking
for.

Thanks

So really I either need to replace it or file the contacts. *I'd like
to try the filing, but can anyone tell me where the contacts are? *If
I do need to replace it, can anyone tell me if it's a straighforward
replacement job?

Thanks

It is straightfoward. All it is is just a probe sticking into the
plenum, and the unit is held by 2 screws. Plus you have to remove the
wiring, so make sure the power is off.
The only thing you have to check is the length of the probe, they make
some with 5", 8" or 11.5". Get the model # off the inside of the cover
case. If your not in a rush and if the weather cooperates, you can get
one online for cheaper in a few days.

That's a great picture of a fan limit switch.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Matt" wrote in message
...
I have a York Stellar furnace that is 16 years old. After
the heat
cycles on and off, the blower will occassionally stay
running. If I
tap the fan/limit control very lightly the metal disk
unsticks,
jiggles a bit, and then the blower shuts off. Then it may
work fine
for a few cycles, but sooner or later it will stick on again
and need
to be tapped. I assume that this is the part that needs to
be
repaired, but is it pretty easy? The fan/limit control is a
Honeywell, so I assume I can find the model/part# and get a
replacement or just take the old one in. I've attached a
pic at
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2626/img1509fo.jpg

Thanks!

On Nov 6, 8:18*am, Matt wrote:
I'm with some of the other posters here... I think the control is misadjusted. *That little metal
tab sticking out near the "50" marking controls when the fan turns on and off, and can be moved. *50
is way too low a setting, it should be closer to 100. *The "Off On" markings under the word "Fan"
indicate the range where that is supposed to be.

Eric Law

Okay, sorry I should have clarified before. *I took the pic at a point
where I was experimenting with the adjustments. *The metal tabs are
usually set around 130 (high) and 80 (low). *I had pushed the lower
one down to 50 so that I could slowly move it up and see at which
point the blower shut off. *The problem is that when it does stick, it
requires only the slightest touch to un-stick - so it's impossible to
hold the dial and move the tab without manually "unsticking" it. *The
issue is definitely not the setting, since when I have it set on 80,
the blower continues to run until I manually unstick it - at one point
i was out of town and my wife said it ran for 2 days straight, and
upon coming home and measuring the temp of the air in the plenum, it
was much lower than 80.

So really I either need to replace it or file the contacts. *I'd like
to try the filing, but can anyone tell me where the contacts are? *If
I do need to replace it, can anyone tell me if it's a straighforward
replacement job?

Thanks

Do you have a humidifier attached to the furnace?

My old furnace had a humidifer and the probe-type fan limit switch
described in this thread.

When I had a problem with my blower staying on/not coming on, I pulled
the fan-limit probe and found it coated in mineral deposits - that
white flakey stuff.

I replaced the limit switch and yanked the humidifier and all was well.

On Nov 6, 8:16*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Nov 6, 8:18*am, Matt wrote:





I'm with some of the other posters here... I think the control is misadjusted. *That little metal
tab sticking out near the "50" marking controls when the fan turns on and off, and can be moved. *50
is way too low a setting, it should be closer to 100. *The "Off On" markings under the word "Fan"
indicate the range where that is supposed to be.

Eric Law

Okay, sorry I should have clarified before. *I took the pic at a point
where I was experimenting with the adjustments. *The metal tabs are
usually set around 130 (high) and 80 (low). *I had pushed the lower
one down to 50 so that I could slowly move it up and see at which
point the blower shut off. *The problem is that when it does stick, it
requires only the slightest touch to un-stick - so it's impossible to
hold the dial and move the tab without manually "unsticking" it. *The
issue is definitely not the setting, since when I have it set on 80,
the blower continues to run until I manually unstick it - at one point
i was out of town and my wife said it ran for 2 days straight, and
upon coming home and measuring the temp of the air in the plenum, it
was much lower than 80.

So really I either need to replace it or file the contacts. *I'd like
to try the filing, but can anyone tell me where the contacts are? *If
I do need to replace it, can anyone tell me if it's a straighforward
replacement job?

Thanks

Do you have a humidifier attached to the furnace?

My old furnace had a humidifer and the probe-type fan limit switch
described in this thread.

When I had a problem with my blower staying on/not coming on, I pulled
the fan-limit probe and found it coated in mineral deposits - that
white flakey stuff.

I replaced the limit switch and yanked the humidifier and all was well.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When I described filing the contacts, I should have said replacing the
limit switch was a good option if you can get a replacement with
similar mounting holes and probe size. The humidifier dust collecting
is logical, altho I have never heard of it being a problem before.

On Nov 6, 3:41*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Nov 6, 8:16*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Nov 6, 8:18*am, Matt wrote:

I'm with some of the other posters here... I think the control is misadjusted. *That little metal
tab sticking out near the "50" marking controls when the fan turns on and off, and can be moved. *50
is way too low a setting, it should be closer to 100. *The "Off On" markings under the word "Fan"
indicate the range where that is supposed to be.

Eric Law

Okay, sorry I should have clarified before. *I took the pic at a point
where I was experimenting with the adjustments. *The metal tabs are
usually set around 130 (high) and 80 (low). *I had pushed the lower
one down to 50 so that I could slowly move it up and see at which
point the blower shut off. *The problem is that when it does stick, it
requires only the slightest touch to un-stick - so it's impossible to
hold the dial and move the tab without manually "unsticking" it. *The
issue is definitely not the setting, since when I have it set on 80,
the blower continues to run until I manually unstick it - at one point
i was out of town and my wife said it ran for 2 days straight, and
upon coming home and measuring the temp of the air in the plenum, it
was much lower than 80.

So really I either need to replace it or file the contacts. *I'd like
to try the filing, but can anyone tell me where the contacts are? *If
I do need to replace it, can anyone tell me if it's a straighforward
replacement job?

Thanks

Do you have a humidifier attached to the furnace?

My old furnace had a humidifer and the probe-type fan limit switch
described in this thread.

When I had a problem with my blower staying on/not coming on, I pulled
the fan-limit probe and found it coated in mineral deposits - that
white flakey stuff.

I replaced the limit switch and yanked the humidifier and all was well.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When I described filing the contacts, I should have said replacing the
limit switch was a good option if you can get a replacement with
similar mounting holes and probe size. *The humidifier dust collecting
is logical, altho I have never heard of it being a problem before.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

dust collecting

Trust me, it was not dust.

The probe was caked with minerals deposits from our hard water.

I did replace the entire fan-limit switch (White-Westinghouse)
although the replacement was not an exact match so I had to adapt the
mounting location a bit.

The biggest problem was that the exterior housing was much smaller and
it was really tough to get the wiring inside the housing and clip the
cover back on.

"Matt" wrote in message
...


I'm with some of the other posters here... I think the control is
misadjusted. That little metal
tab sticking out near the "50" marking controls when the fan turns on and
off, and can be moved. 50
is way too low a setting, it should be closer to 100. The "Off On"
markings under the word "Fan"
indicate the range where that is supposed to be.

Eric Law

Okay, sorry I should have clarified before. I took the pic at a point
where I was experimenting with the adjustments. The metal tabs are
usually set around 130 (high) and 80 (low). I had pushed the lower
one down to 50 so that I could slowly move it up and see at which
point the blower shut off. The problem is that when it does stick, it
requires only the slightest touch to un-stick - so it's impossible to
hold the dial and move the tab without manually "unsticking" it. The
issue is definitely not the setting, since when I have it set on 80,
the blower continues to run until I manually unstick it - at one point
i was out of town and my wife said it ran for 2 days straight, and
upon coming home and measuring the temp of the air in the plenum, it
was much lower than 80.

So really I either need to replace it or file the contacts. I'd like
to try the filing, but can anyone tell me where the contacts are? If
I do need to replace it, can anyone tell me if it's a straighforward
replacement job?

Thank

Just change it out Matt.
Those exact models sticking with age is very, very common. It's super easy
to replace. You just need a nutdriver to remove it, and a small regular
screwdriver to release the wires. Two things to remember 1.) Put those
wires in the exact same place!!! Your furnace may have both 24 volts and
120volts going through that switch at the same time since it is both a fan
and limit switch, so you don't want to fry anything. 2.) On the new unit,
there will likely be a jumper between the two bottom terminals. This was
for three wire set-ups, and would make the switch all 120volt. You have a
four wire set-up, so you will want to remove it. There are three different
lengths available, and also some have a internal heater to bring the fan on
sooner. It is'nt really going to make a lot of difference which one you
use, any of the Honeywell L4064 fan/limits will work essentially the same in
your older furnace, and you probably could'nt tell the difference which one
you had used unless you're the kind of guy who times the blower with a
stopwatch. There are also other fan limits available, but it would be way
simpler for you to find an L4064. Don't forget to set the dial pins at the
temps that the furnace manufacutrer recommended.

HTH, Lefty