Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

On Mar 3, 9:02*pm, SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

i would replace both springs for safety reasons. nothing lasts
forever, and that includes garage door springs

I've never adjusted these. But, from what I've heard, they are very
dangerous. Not something to do your self. They contain a LOT of energy, and
can do tragic things and cause injuries.

That's my take on the matter, for what you paid for it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"SG" wrote in message
...
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

On 3/3/2012 8:02 PM, SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able to
get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

Given the limited amount of info you gave, it sounds like you have
torsion springs and it also sounds like you have a broken one. You need
to call the pros to fix this if you are not experienced in torsion
spring adjustment/replacement. ESPECIALLY with a big door!

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Sat, 3 Mar 2012 22:09:51 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've never adjusted these. But, from what I've heard, they are very
dangerous. Not something to do your self. They contain a LOT of energy, and
can do tragic things and cause injuries.

That's my take on the matter, for what you paid for it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"SG" wrote in message
...
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

I've done a lot of them, and if you use common sense they are not
terribly dangerous. I know, common sense isn't very common any more -
but you need a good set of 2 bars that fit the holes in the winder
properly - snuggly enough not to slip, but not so tight that you have
troublre geting them in or out - and a wrench to fit the set screw -
within easy reach.
Worst case scenario the slack spring is broken and you need to
dissassemble the whole mechanism. I've done that too - but for the
average DIY guy that's the time to call in the pros.

SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able to
get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P
Hi,
I went to get 4 ft long steel rod of 1/4 in. diameter. I cut it in half
which make good tool for adjusting the springs. If you don't have proper
tool, don't. It can be really dangerous and injure yourself. When
properly adjusted door is moveable with one hand up and down and it
won't try to go up or down by itself. It should stay where you leave it.

wrote:
On Sat, 3 Mar 2012 22:09:51 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've never adjusted these. But, from what I've heard, they are very
dangerous. Not something to do your self. They contain a LOT of energy, and
can do tragic things and cause injuries.

That's my take on the matter, for what you paid for it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp?-----that's rhetorical ;-P

I've done a lot of them, and if you use common sense they are not
terribly dangerous. I know, common sense isn't very common any more -
but you need a good set of 2 bars that fit the holes in the winder
properly - snuggly enough not to slip, but not so tight that you have
troublre geting them in or out - and a wrench to fit the set screw -
within easy reach.
Worst case scenario the slack spring is broken and you need to
dissassemble the whole mechanism. I've done that too - but for the
average DIY guy that's the time to call in the pros.
Hi,
If spring is broken it can be joined together with a small U bolt clamp
and rewind it until replacement is ready. Once in a while I wipe the
springs with oil soaked rag to prevent premature failure due to dry
rubbing between coils which causes metal fatigue.

On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 21:08:51 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:



SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able to
get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P
Hi,
I went to get 4 ft long steel rod of 1/4 in. diameter. I cut it in half
which make good tool for adjusting the springs. If you don't have proper
tool, don't. It can be really dangerous and injure yourself. When
properly adjusted door is moveable with one hand up and down and it
won't try to go up or down by itself. It should stay where you leave it.
Many of the ones I have adjusted needed rods closer to 1/2 inch in
diameter - REAL garage doors.

On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 21:14:22 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:



wrote:
On Sat, 3 Mar 2012 22:09:51 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've never adjusted these. But, from what I've heard, they are very
dangerous. Not something to do your self. They contain a LOT of energy, and
can do tragic things and cause injuries.

That's my take on the matter, for what you paid for it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp?-----that's rhetorical ;-P

I've done a lot of them, and if you use common sense they are not
terribly dangerous. I know, common sense isn't very common any more -
but you need a good set of 2 bars that fit the holes in the winder
properly - snuggly enough not to slip, but not so tight that you have
troublre geting them in or out - and a wrench to fit the set screw -
within easy reach.
Worst case scenario the slack spring is broken and you need to
dissassemble the whole mechanism. I've done that too - but for the
average DIY guy that's the time to call in the pros.
Hi,
If spring is broken it can be joined together with a small U bolt clamp
and rewind it until replacement is ready. Once in a while I wipe the
springs with oil soaked rag to prevent premature failure due to dry
rubbing between coils which causes metal fatigue.

Talking about dangerous - - -
I would STRONGLY caution EVERYBODY to ignore this advice. Attempting
to clamp the spring will cause dangerous stresses, making the whole
process (and door) much more dangerous. As for the oil - it just makes
things dirtier and more difficult to work on - with virtually no
advantage when it comes to the lifespan of the spring.

PERHAPS using a pair of clamps and overlaping more than half a coil
- so the clamps are 180 degrees apart MIGHT work - but the saddles of
the clamps WILL interfere with the spring which would STILL make the
situation un-necessarily dangerous.

On 3/3/2012 10:08 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:


SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able to
get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P
Hi,
I went to get 4 ft long steel rod of 1/4 in. diameter. I cut it in half
which make good tool for adjusting the springs. If you don't have proper
tool, don't. It can be really dangerous and injure yourself. When
properly adjusted door is moveable with one hand up and down and it
won't try to go up or down by itself. It should stay where you leave it.

1/4" is not near big enough

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

wrote:
On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 21:14:22 -0700, Tony
wrote:



wrote:
On Sat, 3 Mar 2012 22:09:51 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've never adjusted these. But, from what I've heard, they are very
dangerous. Not something to do your self. They contain a LOT of energy, and
can do tragic things and cause injuries.

That's my take on the matter, for what you paid for it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp?-----that's rhetorical ;-P

I've done a lot of them, and if you use common sense they are not
terribly dangerous. I know, common sense isn't very common any more -
but you need a good set of 2 bars that fit the holes in the winder
properly - snuggly enough not to slip, but not so tight that you have
troublre geting them in or out - and a wrench to fit the set screw -
within easy reach.
Worst case scenario the slack spring is broken and you need to
dissassemble the whole mechanism. I've done that too - but for the
average DIY guy that's the time to call in the pros.
Hi,
If spring is broken it can be joined together with a small U bolt clamp
and rewind it until replacement is ready. Once in a while I wipe the
springs with oil soaked rag to prevent premature failure due to dry
rubbing between coils which causes metal fatigue.

Talking about dangerous - - -
I would STRONGLY caution EVERYBODY to ignore this advice. Attempting
to clamp the spring will cause dangerous stresses, making the whole
process (and door) much more dangerous. As for the oil - it just makes
things dirtier and more difficult to work on - with virtually no
advantage when it comes to the lifespan of the spring.

PERHAPS using a pair of clamps and overlaping more than half a coil
- so the clamps are 180 degrees apart MIGHT work - but the saddles of
the clamps WILL interfere with the spring which would STILL make the
situation un-necessarily dangerous.

That is what you think. I did that once until ordered spring ariivedm
nothing happened. I installed oper, replaced spring, replace broken
string, etc. on our garage door, nothing hapened to me or to the door.
I am 100% safety concious person. I should take a picture of springs
here and show if it collects dirt?, No it does not.

SG wrote:

Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

One of the springs is broken. Call a pro in if you've never been
shown how to do it.

--
It's very dangerous to wave to people you don't know because
what if they don't have hands? They'll think you're cocky. -Mitch Hedberg

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 21:14:22 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:
Talking about dangerous - - -
I would STRONGLY caution EVERYBODY to ignore this advice. Attempting
to clamp the spring will cause dangerous stresses, making the whole
process (and door) much more dangerous. As for the oil - it just makes
things dirtier and more difficult to work on - with virtually no
advantage when it comes to the lifespan of the spring.

PERHAPS using a pair of clamps and overlaping more than half a coil
- so the clamps are 180 degrees apart MIGHT work - but the saddles of
the clamps WILL interfere with the spring which would STILL make the
situation un-necessarily dangerous.

Have you ever done this? If not, don't assume and if so, then you did it
wrong.

Were I work, we have several large overhead bay doors which are used daily
and often. When one of the springs broke, it disabled the door. The door
company we use often for door repair, frequently use the u-bolt clamp method
while parts are on order. It doesn't endure anymore stress than in normal
condition.

BTW, even a new pair of springs can break suddenly.

On 3/4/2012 3:20 AM, G. Morgan wrote:
SG wrote:

Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp?-----that's rhetorical ;-P

One of the springs is broken. Call a pro in if you've never been
shown how to do it.

For many years, I always called in the pro. Then once, I tried it
myself. I looked up on the Internet for methods, etc. The local Ace,
of all places, carried the springs. After the 1st one, I could replace
a spring in about an hour. Yes, the winding rods should be 1/2" as I
recall. 2' long rods are probably too long. Mine are about 1' and give
plenty of leverage even for winding the springs of a heavy, double wide
door. BUT, IT CAN BE DANGEROUS if you are not careful as others have
pointed out. BTW, one web site gave a good tip. Clamp a ViseGrip onto
the pipe so that it will stop the pipe from turning. I know this won't
stop the winding rods from flying around if you are not holding them
when the set bolts are release, but it does keep things from moving.
After reading the the horror stories, I was surprised at how little
force it actually took to wind the springs. I was expecting much more.
BUT, AS EVERYONE HAS SAID, IT CAN BE DANGEROUS if the rods get out of
hand. If you feel hesitant, call a pro and watch and learn.

On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 20:02:22 -0600, SG wrote:

Are they really that difficult to adjust?

Read this information:

http://truetex.com/garage.htm

Long, but FULL of details -- all in one place.

On Sun, 04 Mar 2012 01:04:18 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:



wrote:
On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 21:14:22 -0700, Tony
wrote:



wrote:
On Sat, 3 Mar 2012 22:09:51 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've never adjusted these. But, from what I've heard, they are very
dangerous. Not something to do your self. They contain a LOT of energy, and
can do tragic things and cause injuries.

That's my take on the matter, for what you paid for it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp?-----that's rhetorical ;-P

I've done a lot of them, and if you use common sense they are not
terribly dangerous. I know, common sense isn't very common any more -
but you need a good set of 2 bars that fit the holes in the winder
properly - snuggly enough not to slip, but not so tight that you have
troublre geting them in or out - and a wrench to fit the set screw -
within easy reach.
Worst case scenario the slack spring is broken and you need to
dissassemble the whole mechanism. I've done that too - but for the
average DIY guy that's the time to call in the pros.
Hi,
If spring is broken it can be joined together with a small U bolt clamp
and rewind it until replacement is ready. Once in a while I wipe the
springs with oil soaked rag to prevent premature failure due to dry
rubbing between coils which causes metal fatigue.

Talking about dangerous - - -
I would STRONGLY caution EVERYBODY to ignore this advice. Attempting
to clamp the spring will cause dangerous stresses, making the whole
process (and door) much more dangerous. As for the oil - it just makes
things dirtier and more difficult to work on - with virtually no
advantage when it comes to the lifespan of the spring.

PERHAPS using a pair of clamps and overlaping more than half a coil
- so the clamps are 180 degrees apart MIGHT work - but the saddles of
the clamps WILL interfere with the spring which would STILL make the
situation un-necessarily dangerous.

That is what you think. I did that once until ordered spring ariivedm
nothing happened. I installed oper, replaced spring, replace broken
string, etc. on our garage door, nothing hapened to me or to the door.
I am 100% safety concious person. I should take a picture of springs
here and show if it collects dirt?, No it does not.
You did it and got away with it. It is NOT recommended - and NOT
safe. I have worked on, adjusted, and replaced springs on at least a
dozen different overhead doors with torsion springs.

And oiling ANYTHING makes it attract dirt. That is a GIVEN.

On Sun, 4 Mar 2012 08:58:24 -0500, "Justin Time" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 21:14:22 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:
Talking about dangerous - - -
I would STRONGLY caution EVERYBODY to ignore this advice. Attempting
to clamp the spring will cause dangerous stresses, making the whole
process (and door) much more dangerous. As for the oil - it just makes
things dirtier and more difficult to work on - with virtually no
advantage when it comes to the lifespan of the spring.

PERHAPS using a pair of clamps and overlaping more than half a coil
- so the clamps are 180 degrees apart MIGHT work - but the saddles of
the clamps WILL interfere with the spring which would STILL make the
situation un-necessarily dangerous.

Have you ever done this? If not, don't assume and if so, then you did it
wrong.

Were I work, we have several large overhead bay doors which are used daily
and often. When one of the springs broke, it disabled the door. The door
company we use often for door repair, frequently use the u-bolt clamp method
while parts are on order. It doesn't endure anymore stress than in normal
condition.

BTW, even a new pair of springs can break suddenly.

The door company I used ALWAYS had the required springs in stock.
Where I worked we had SIX overhead doors that were upened and closed
many times per day. Every spring and every fall we adjusted the door
springs to compensate for the weight of the doors that changed with
humidity - and every once in a while we had a spring break. I replaced
one of those big suckers - and convinced the boss to call the door
company for the next one. In the neighbourhood I've adjusted and
replaced the springs on about a dozen garage doors - both tension and
torsion. NO WAY would I attempt to "patch" the spring with cable
clamps ("U" bolts). It's a case of get the door down, and leave it
there untill the spring is replaced.

And if a NEW spring breaks, you are buying junk springs.

Steve Barker wrote:
On 3/3/2012 8:02 PM, SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able to
get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

Given the limited amount of info you gave, it sounds like you have
torsion springs and it also sounds like you have a broken one. You need
to call the pros to fix this if you are not experienced in torsion spring
adjustment/replacement. ESPECIALLY with a big door!


My father got hurt pretty bad. Years later I noticed one spring broke when
I could not lift the door. I called in help.

Greg

On 3/3/2012 10:08 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:


SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able to
get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P
Hi,
I went to get 4 ft long steel rod of 1/4 in. diameter. I cut it in half
which make good tool for adjusting the springs. If you don't have proper
tool, don't. It can be really dangerous and injure yourself. When
properly adjusted door is moveable with one hand up and down and it
won't try to go up or down by itself. It should stay where you leave it.


I'd be scared to death to use 1/4 rods. Check the holes - 1/2" if I
remember, about 12" long. Be VERY prepared for the spring to unwind
with a great deal of force if you release the two set screws.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

wrote in message
...
The door company I used ALWAYS had the required springs in stock.
Where I worked we had SIX overhead doors that were upened and closed
many times per day. Every spring and every fall we adjusted the door
springs to compensate for the weight of the doors that changed with
humidity - and every once in a while we had a spring break. I replaced
one of those big suckers - and convinced the boss to call the door
company for the next one. In the neighbourhood I've adjusted and
replaced the springs on about a dozen garage doors - both tension and
torsion. NO WAY would I attempt to "patch" the spring with cable
clamps ("U" bolts). It's a case of get the door down, and leave it
there untill the spring is replaced.

And if a NEW spring breaks, you are buying junk springs.

Such a wonderful world it would be if everyone had all the items we need
right when we need it.

To each his own. All I know is, it held up fine.

On Mar 3, 8:08*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
SG wrote:
Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able to
get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

Hi,
I went to get *4 ft long steel rod of 1/4 in. diameter. I cut it in half
which make good tool for adjusting the springs. If you don't have proper
tool, don't. It can be really dangerous and injure yourself. When
properly adjusted door is moveable with one hand up and down and it
won't try to go up or down by itself. It should stay where you leave it.

Tony-


I think what is hurting your credibility is suggesting the use of
1/4" rod.
The three garage doors I've worked on needed 1/2" rod....... I used
some LONG 1/2" bolts with the threaded section cut off.

I can state for a fact.... 1/4" rod runs the risk of damaging the
torquing fitting, bending the rod or losing engagement.

OP-

If oyu read & understand the info in http://truetex.com/garage.htm

and have decent mechanical abilities & aptitude you can fix the door
yourself.

Working on the door yourself is not without risk but it is doable.

Wear safety glasses

cheers
Bob

G. Morgan wrote:
SG wrote:

Are they really that difficult to adjust?

16 ft door, spring on left "looks" fine, you know with a curvy
appearance like it has proper tension. The spring on right side is
straight, I can tell it has slipped back some because it used to look
just like the one on the left and the door opener has just started
having trouble lifting the door. If I help it (only needs very little
assistance) when the button is pushed it goes right up. I unhooked it
and tried manually and it's really hard to lift. So I loosened the set
screws and I can not turn it any more than it already is. I probably
need longer tools for more leverage, but seems that I should be able
to get at least a half turn or so out of it.

Am I just a wimp? -----that's rhetorical ;-P

One of the springs is broken.

No! The spring(s) were not broke.

Call a pro in if you've never been
shown how to do it.



Did that, door man just left, lubricated and adjusted every thing,
good as new again :-)


Thanks for all the suggestions and lively discussion.

On Mar 5, 7:57*am, SG wrote:
SNIP


Call a pro in if you've never been

shown how to do it.

Did that, door man just left, lubricated and adjusted every thing,
good as new again :-)

Thanks for all the suggestions and lively discussion.

SG-

Just to "close the loop" on this discussion.....

Door man's diagnosis?
What exactly he do & what was the cost?
Did he have to replace any parts?

cheers
Bob

On Mon, 5 Mar 2012 09:45:33 -0800 (PST), DD_BobK
wrote:

On Mar 5, 7:57*am, SG wrote:
SNIP


Call a pro in if you've never been

shown how to do it.

Did that, door man just left, lubricated and adjusted every thing,
good as new again :-)

Thanks for all the suggestions and lively discussion.

SG-

Just to "close the loop" on this discussion.....

Door man's diagnosis?

Lube and adjustment.

What exactly he do & what was the cost?

Lubrication.

Did he have to replace any parts?

Is this a chain, belt, a screw drive operator?