I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water flow
even worse.

The flow restrictors seem to be integral with the new-model aerators and
can't even be removed.

Are there aerators I can buy that are suitable for homes that already
have low water pressure? Either higher-flow flow restrictors, or
removable flow restrictors, or none at all?

All that crap about low-flow aerators and low-flow toilets and low-flow
shower heads doesn't seem to apply to homes like mine, which have low
water pressure to begin with!




-- Steven L.

On 2/7/2012 8:40 AM, Steven L. wrote:
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water flow
even worse.
....

How low and why?

Perhaps solving that instead would be the answer?

--

Steven L. wrote:
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water
flow even worse.

The flow restrictors seem to be integral with the new-model aerators
and can't even be removed.

Are there aerators I can buy that are suitable for homes that already
have low water pressure? Either higher-flow flow restrictors, or
removable flow restrictors, or none at all?

All that crap about low-flow aerators and low-flow toilets and
low-flow shower heads doesn't seem to apply to homes like mine, which
have low water pressure to begin with!



What is the static pressure?

You could add a booster pump.

On 2/7/2012 9:40 AM, Steven L. wrote:
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water flow
even worse.

The flow restrictors seem to be integral with the new-model aerators and
can't even be removed.

Are there aerators I can buy that are suitable for homes that already
have low water pressure? Either higher-flow flow restrictors, or
removable flow restrictors, or none at all?

All that crap about low-flow aerators and low-flow toilets and low-flow
shower heads doesn't seem to apply to homes like mine, which have low
water pressure to begin with!




-- Steven L.



Do you know the reason(s) why you have low water pressure? Can you
address that?

Steve,

Hardware stores sell aerators. Look on the packaging to be sure that the
aerator does not include a built-in restrictor.

Dave M.

On Tue, 07 Feb 2012 08:51:04 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 2/7/2012 8:40 AM, Steven L. wrote:
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water flow
even worse.
...

How low and why?

Perhaps solving that instead would be the answer?

Check for any partially closed stop valves, meter valve or pressure
valve... easy to check as a starting point.

"Steven L." wrote in message
...
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water flow
even worse.

The flow restrictors seem to be integral with the new-model aerators and
can't even be removed.

Are there aerators I can buy that are suitable for homes that already have
low water pressure? Either higher-flow flow restrictors, or removable
flow restrictors, or none at all?

All that crap about low-flow aerators and low-flow toilets and low-flow
shower heads doesn't seem to apply to homes like mine, which have low
water pressure to begin with!


What you really need to know is whether you actually have low pressure or
low flow which can mimic low pressure when a valve is open. You need to use
a pressure gauge to see what you actual pressure is when water is not used
and again when faucets are turned on. Look in the irrigation area of your
local BORG store for a pressure gauge that fits onto a garden hose faucet.
This way you can check pressures without changing the plumbing to install a
pressure gauge.

Low water flow can be caused by partially closed or blocked valves among
other things or more commonly from limed up galvanized water pipes.

EXT wrote:
"Steven L." wrote in message
...
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water
flow even worse.

The flow restrictors seem to be integral with the new-model aerators
and can't even be removed.

Are there aerators I can buy that are suitable for homes that
already have low water pressure? Either higher-flow flow
restrictors, or removable flow restrictors, or none at all?

All that crap about low-flow aerators and low-flow toilets and
low-flow shower heads doesn't seem to apply to homes like mine,
which have low water pressure to begin with!


What you really need to know is whether you actually have low
pressure or low flow which can mimic low pressure when a valve is
open. You need to use a pressure gauge to see what you actual
pressure is when water is not used and again when faucets are turned
on. Look in the irrigation area of your local BORG store for a
pressure gauge that fits onto a garden hose faucet. This way you can
check pressures without changing the plumbing to install a pressure
gauge.

Or, for at least a clue, what color is your nearest fire hydrant. If it is
green, you probably have pipeing issues. If it is Yellow, or worse, red, you
nead to deal with it from the "low flow faucet problem" angle.

At least, where I live, the hydrants are color coded by pressure.

On 07/02/2012 7:35 PM, Bob F wrote:
EXT wrote:
"Steven wrote in message
...
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water
flow even worse.

The flow restrictors seem to be integral with the new-model aerators
and can't even be removed.

Are there aerators I can buy that are suitable for homes that
already have low water pressure? Either higher-flow flow
restrictors, or removable flow restrictors, or none at all?

All that crap about low-flow aerators and low-flow toilets and
low-flow shower heads doesn't seem to apply to homes like mine,
which have low water pressure to begin with!


What you really need to know is whether you actually have low
pressure or low flow which can mimic low pressure when a valve is
open. You need to use a pressure gauge to see what you actual
pressure is when water is not used and again when faucets are turned
on. Look in the irrigation area of your local BORG store for a
pressure gauge that fits onto a garden hose faucet. This way you can
check pressures without changing the plumbing to install a pressure
gauge.

Or, for at least a clue, what color is your nearest fire hydrant. If it is
green, you probably have pipeing issues. If it is Yellow, or worse, red, you
nead to deal with it from the "low flow faucet problem" angle.

At least, where I live, the hydrants are color coded by pressure.



I think if you check with your local fire department you'll find that
the hydrants are colour coded as to their flow capacity, not pressure.
Pressure by itself is meaningless. What counts is pressure remaining
(residual pressure) while water is flowing. In other word a hydrant on a
6" water main is going to have a lot less flow capacity than a hydrant
on a 20" main assuming they both have the same static (no flow)
pressure. Hydrants are colour coded as to the number of gpm's available
from them. Usually it is just the bonnet (top) and port caps that are
colored, but local custom or jurisdiction may dictate that the whole
hydrant is colour coded.

Gil wrote:
On 07/02/2012 7:35 PM, Bob F wrote:
EXT wrote:
"Steven wrote in message
...
I often have chronically low water pressure throughout my home,
and the faucet aerators with their flow restrictors make the water
flow even worse.

The flow restrictors seem to be integral with the new-model
aerators and can't even be removed.

Are there aerators I can buy that are suitable for homes that
already have low water pressure? Either higher-flow flow
restrictors, or removable flow restrictors, or none at all?

All that crap about low-flow aerators and low-flow toilets and
low-flow shower heads doesn't seem to apply to homes like mine,
which have low water pressure to begin with!


What you really need to know is whether you actually have low
pressure or low flow which can mimic low pressure when a valve is
open. You need to use a pressure gauge to see what you actual
pressure is when water is not used and again when faucets are turned
on. Look in the irrigation area of your local BORG store for a
pressure gauge that fits onto a garden hose faucet. This way you can
check pressures without changing the plumbing to install a pressure
gauge.

Or, for at least a clue, what color is your nearest fire hydrant. If
it is green, you probably have pipeing issues. If it is Yellow, or
worse, red, you nead to deal with it from the "low flow faucet
problem" angle. At least, where I live, the hydrants are color coded by
pressure.



I think if you check with your local fire department you'll find that
the hydrants are colour coded as to their flow capacity, not pressure.
Pressure by itself is meaningless. What counts is pressure remaining
(residual pressure) while water is flowing. In other word a hydrant
on a 6" water main is going to have a lot less flow capacity than a
hydrant on a 20" main assuming they both have the same static (no
flow) pressure. Hydrants are colour coded as to the number of gpm's
available from them. Usually it is just the bonnet (top) and port
caps that are colored, but local custom or jurisdiction may dictate
that the whole hydrant is colour coded.

Thnaks for the added info.

The people I've talked with in western NYS, the hydrants are color coded
based on the diameter of the water main. Red 6 inch, yellow 8 inch, and
green for 10 inch or larger.

Rochester, NY has "white cap" hydrants, which are a separate water system,
which is separate from the domestic water.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Gil" wrote in message
...

I think if you check with your local fire department you'll find that
the hydrants are colour coded as to their flow capacity, not pressure.
Pressure by itself is meaningless. What counts is pressure remaining
(residual pressure) while water is flowing. In other word a hydrant on a
6" water main is going to have a lot less flow capacity than a hydrant
on a 20" main assuming they both have the same static (no flow)
pressure. Hydrants are colour coded as to the number of gpm's available
from them. Usually it is just the bonnet (top) and port caps that are
colored, but local custom or jurisdiction may dictate that the whole
hydrant is colour coded.

On Tue, 7 Feb 2012 20:42:47 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

The people I've talked with in western NYS, the hydrants are color coded
based on the diameter of the water main. Red 6 inch, yellow 8 inch, and
green for 10 inch or larger.

Driving in one day I see the local firemen flushing my closet hydrant
good Next time I noticed it was painted yellow (entirely) and a
red paint was on the curb ... no parking at the red zone.

Yup, that sounds about right. Like I said, it's based on water main
capacity.

Gil


On 07/02/2012 8:42 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The people I've talked with in western NYS, the hydrants are color coded
based on the diameter of the water main. Red 6 inch, yellow 8 inch, and
green for 10 inch or larger.

Rochester, NY has "white cap" hydrants, which are a separate water system,
which is separate from the domestic water.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

I think if you check with your local fire department you'll find that
the hydrants are colour coded as to their flow capacity, not pressure.
Pressure by itself is meaningless. What counts is pressure remaining
(residual pressure) while water is flowing. In other word a hydrant on a
6" water main is going to have a lot less flow capacity than a hydrant
on a 20" main assuming they both have the same static (no flow)
pressure. Hydrants are colour coded as to the number of gpm's available
from them. Usually it is just the bonnet (top) and port caps that are
colored, but local custom or jurisdiction may dictate that the whole
hydrant is colour coded.

On 07/02/2012 9:49 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 7 Feb 2012 20:42:47 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

The people I've talked with in western NYS, the hydrants are color coded
based on the diameter of the water main. Red 6 inch, yellow 8 inch, and
green for 10 inch or larger.

Driving in one day I see the local firemen flushing my closet hydrant
good Next time I noticed it was painted yellow (entirely) and a
red paint was on the curb ... no parking at the red zone.


Probably what they were doing was 'flow testing'.Generally two or more
hydrants are used. One has a port cap with a pressure gauge attached to
it to read the water main pressures both with and without a flow. After
the static (no flow) pressure is noted, a hydrant (or sometimes more
depending upon pressure drop) is opened downstream and the flow from the
port(s) is calculated. At the same time the residual pressure remaining
at the first hydrant is recorded. Using this info, and a
semi-exponential graph plot, the total flow capacity of the water main
can be determined fairly accurately. This data is also checked against
previous flow tests to determine if any problems have occurred that
might have impeded water availability. And of course, it also flushes
sediment from the main.

Gil

On Tue, 07 Feb 2012 18:49:17 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 7 Feb 2012 20:42:47 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

The people I've talked with in western NYS, the hydrants are color coded
based on the diameter of the water main. Red 6 inch, yellow 8 inch, and
green for 10 inch or larger.

Driving in one day I see the local firemen flushing my closet hydrant
good Next time I noticed it was painted yellow (entirely) and a
red paint was on the curb ... no parking at the red zone.

Yellow hydrants are cowardly, red are bold, and green are
inexperienced. (nothing to do with pressure or capacity)

I Completely Understand where this guy is coming from. I Reside in a Park with 84 other tenants...the "Office" sets the "Pressure" at 30 pounds..with a 40 gallon per minute pump..So dont try to impress me with this "Flow is Greater Than Pressure" Crap. AT my Faucet I get 8 pounds...my "FLOW" is .3 gallons per minute..so SHOVE THEM AERATORS UP YOUR @#$. I removed every Aerator on every Faucet I own and went to Lowes and bougt a High Capacity Toilet as well. Now my toilet still takes 8 minutes to fill, "2 Gallons" but that baby will flush a small dog or a cat down the sewer. SO Yes..SOME of us CANNOT AFFORD to save the world. IF I could get 30 psi @ my faucet and maintain 2-5 gpm flow sure id use an Aerator...but when my water pressure sucks so bad and I can **** harder than my shower can...ill keep my Aerators in the trash...Thank You!!! Furthermore I dont feel its MY responsibility to buy a 75 dollar "Booster" pump either because...say my Booster Pump runs out of water because the well pump cant give it what it needs to boost the pressure/flow anyway?....huh?...huh?...so now my 75 bucks just went out in the trash can with that new pressure pump because it ran dry....or worse yet...now i have to prime it again...DAMN IT!!!
IF Pressure is Meaningless...disconnect your oil pump in car engine and just pour oil from a can into the valve covers and then tell me Pressure is Meaningless....while your walking to the store....Im telling you...w/o pressure you got ****...sure flow helps..but what good is flow w/o pressure?...In my building where i work our sprinkler system main has 175 psi on it...that dont mean flow....PSI = POUNDS PER SQARE INCH...so tell me again that pressure doesnt mean **** its the flow we want?...ever seen water drip out of a faucet that only has 1 or 2 psi?....PLEASE get yer head on right.

On 12/25/2013 9:14 PM, wrote:
This is considered a public water supply by definition, probably 25
lbs water pressure is required at all times. A booster pump is a no no
unless you want to drink whatever your neighbors have cross connected to
the water line. Put an accurate gauge on the water line and monitor it,
if you have less than the required (by regulation) water pressure file a
complaint with the authority that regulates the water system.
http://www2.epa.gov/home/state-and-t...ental-agencies