Lights of America, 32W base up in a desk lamp.

I heard a pop and found the two parts of that form the base separated
with the bulb dangling from a pair of internal wires, and a scorch mark
on the shade. Near the edge of the circuit board there is a DIP with
pin 6 completely gone--just a hole surrounded by black emanating to the
edge of the board. Another nearby component (whose type escapes me
94-4944 042P 2671) has scorch marks on its heat sink and a little bump
poking out of the packaging.

m

(Fake ID) wrote in news:4f1531db$0$1648
:

Lights of America, 32W base up in a desk lamp.

I heard a pop and found the two parts of that form the base separated
with the bulb dangling from a pair of internal wires, and a scorch mark
on the shade. Near the edge of the circuit board there is a DIP with
pin 6 completely gone--just a hole surrounded by black emanating to the
edge of the board. Another nearby component (whose type escapes me
94-4944 042P 2671) has scorch marks on its heat sink and a little bump
poking out of the packaging.

m


Pics would be cool....just for the heck of it.

I wouldn't think a desk lamp/unit, as that, is that expensive.
Obviously, something is defective with the whole. Don't attempt to
repair something as that, especially if you don't have a clue as how
to troubleshoot the problem. Throw it in the trash and buy a new
unit.

Sonny

"Fake ID" wrote in message
...
Lights of America, 32W base up in a desk lamp.

I heard a pop and found the two parts of that form the base separated
with the bulb dangling from a pair of internal wires, and a scorch mark
on the shade. Near the edge of the circuit board there is a DIP with
pin 6 completely gone--just a hole surrounded by black emanating to the
edge of the board. Another nearby component (whose type escapes me
94-4944 042P 2671) has scorch marks on its heat sink and a little bump
poking out of the packaging.

m

It's not uncommon. From your description, it sounds like a capacitor
failure on the ballast circuit board. It's scary because you can see the
damage and sometimes smell a bit of smoke and see the flash. All electronic
fluorescent lamp ballasts have capacitors. Now, with the circuitry almost
exposed on CFL lamps, failures are noticed. When the ballast is inside a
metal can inside an enclosed fixture, there isn't as much of a "show" when
something fails.

If the CFL is UL listed (most are), the design has been tested so that it is
not likely it will start a fire or be an electrical safety hazard; but with
electricity anything can happen sometimes. Flick a drop of water on a
standard 100 watt incandescent bulb that's been burning a while and be
prepared for fireworks and flying glass. On second thought, don't do that;
it's dangerous. And standard light bulbs are not UL listed for safety.

Tomsic

Sonny wrote:
I wouldn't think a desk lamp/unit, as that, is that expensive.
Obviously, something is defective with the whole. Don't attempt to
repair something as that, especially if you don't have a clue as how
to troubleshoot the problem. Throw it in the trash and buy a new
unit.


Unless the lamp has a dimmer on it, how could the lamp itself cause the bulb to
explode.

It's an LOA bulb for christs sake!

On Jan 17, 8:14*am, "Bob F" wrote:
Sonny wrote:
I wouldn't think a desk lamp/unit, as that, is that expensive.
Obviously, something is defective with the whole. *Don't attempt to
repair something as that, especially if you don't have a clue as how
to troubleshoot the problem. *Throw it in the trash and buy a new
unit.

Unless the lamp has a dimmer on it, how could the lamp itself cause the bulb to
explode.

It's an LOA bulb for christs sake!

My experience with LOA is to avoid them whenever possible

Fake ID wrote the following:
Lights of America, 32W base up in a desk lamp.

I heard a pop and found the two parts of that form the base separated
with the bulb dangling from a pair of internal wires, and a scorch mark
on the shade. Near the edge of the circuit board there is a DIP with
pin 6 completely gone--just a hole surrounded by black emanating to the
edge of the board. Another nearby component (whose type escapes me
94-4944 042P 2671) has scorch marks on its heat sink and a little bump
poking out of the packaging.

m

Uh Oh, Notify the EPA and evacuate the building and everyone within a
mile of your house.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 09:13:57 -0500, "Tomsic" wrote:

Flick a drop of water on a
standard 100 watt incandescent bulb that's been burning a while and be
prepared for fireworks and flying glass. On second thought, don't do that;
it's dangerous. And standard light bulbs are not UL listed for safety.


Son's shop went to CFL's for all work lights exposed to splash.
Water or oil.
Even triggering an air tool can blow a nearby incandescent.

--Vic

Don't laugh. That's next.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"willshak" wrote in message
m...
Fake ID wrote the following:
Lights of America, 32W base up in a desk lamp.

I heard a pop and found the two parts of that form the base separated
with the bulb dangling from a pair of internal wires, and a scorch mark
on the shade. Near the edge of the circuit board there is a DIP with

m

Uh Oh, Notify the EPA and evacuate the building and everyone within a
mile of your house.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

m

In article , Tomsic wrote:

It's not uncommon. From your description, it sounds like a capacitor
failure on the ballast circuit board. It's scary because you can see the
damage and sometimes smell a bit of smoke and see the flash. All electronic
fluorescent lamp ballasts have capacitors. Now, with the circuitry almost
exposed on CFL lamps, failures are noticed. When the ballast is inside a
metal can inside an enclosed fixture, there isn't as much of a "show" when
something fails.

Wasn't there an epidemic of bad caps going around a few years ago?
Anyway, none of the things I think look like capacitors look blown.

I think that bulb dates back to the Enron blackouts of 2001.
It was getting ready to die. The last few weeks it would spontaneously
go out until I jostled the lamp (or just walked over to it).

m

Fake ID wrote the following:
I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

m

Great pictures.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

(Fake ID) writes:

I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

Neat, thanks.

--
Dan Espen

"Dan Espen" wrote in message
...
(Fake ID) writes:

I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

Neat, thanks.

--
Dan Espen

Yes, great pix. Looks like it may have been the electronics rather than the
usual capacitor failure; but it looks like a normal failure. I don't like
the part about the lamp coming off the base; but other than being a bit
startling, the failure does't appear likely to be extensive enough to cause
damage or hurt someone.

Tomsic

On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:41:11 -0500, "Tomsic" wrote:

"Dan Espen" wrote in message
...
(Fake ID) writes:

I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

Neat, thanks.

--
Dan Espen

Yes, great pix. Looks like it may have been the electronics rather than the
usual capacitor failure; but it looks like a normal failure. I don't like
the part about the lamp coming off the base; but other than being a bit
startling, the failure does't appear likely to be extensive enough to cause
damage or hurt someone.

Tomsic

The chip that has the leg blown off it is the electronic ballast
control chip. (uba2021p) - looks like the connection to the resistor
beside it overheated and opened up causing the chip to lock on,
vapourizing the lead..

Pin 9 is the current monitor . Looks like it is pin 9 that has blown
off.

"Fake ID" wrote in message
...
I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

WOW! What kind of Nikon? That's a classic textbook picture of a pin blow
out. IMHO, that shouldn't happen - a fusible link of some sort should open.
People with CPD can get a good blast of very nasty fumes when a CFL dies.
She removes all bulbs in her sewing/office areas when they either show
blackening or start humming (that's a few, now) to avoid breathing that
stuff in during yet-another smoky CFL bulb failure. I'm hoping "death by
stinkout" is something they really get squared away in the future. The
worst an incandescent bulb has done around here is flare out.

Anyway, your "PointOrShoot" seems to have done a remarkable job. Some
cameras can't get close without resorting to tricks (my favorite is holding
a large magnifying glass in front of the camera lens). I've bought a lot of
digicams - not one of them is a do-it-all camera. I go back to using my
Sony TRV video-tape cam because the smaller, higher-res cams have
hard-to-work menus in place of the discrete buttons on the Sony.

--
Bobby G.

In article ,
Robert Green wrote:
"Fake ID" wrote in message
...
I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

What kind of Nikon?

Coolpix SQ--last of the swivel bodies, AFAIK.

People with CPD can get a good blast of very nasty fumes when a CFL dies.
She removes all bulbs in her sewing/office areas when they either show
blackening or start humming (that's a few, now) to avoid breathing that
stuff in during yet-another smoky CFL bulb failure. I'm hoping "death by
stinkout" is something they really get squared away in the future. The
worst an incandescent bulb has done around here is flare out.

The room did stink like it was still burning for about a day.
It's definitely a "this might be toxic" odor.

Anyway, your "PointOrShoot" seems to have done a remarkable job. Some
cameras can't get close without resorting to tricks (my favorite is holding
a large magnifying glass in front of the camera lens). I've bought a lot of
digicams - not one of them is a do-it-all camera. I go back to using my
Sony TRV video-tape cam because the smaller, higher-res cams have
hard-to-work menus in place of the discrete buttons on the Sony.

The SQ has no means to manual focus--auto only. The autofocus will hunt
around, passing through what is clearly in focus, before giving up out
of focus. ****es me off to no end.

With just 3x optical zoom I sometimes achieve "telephoto" by shooting
through binoculars. Camera construction helps with this since all lens
movement is internal, but, again, the autofocus...

m

"Fake ID" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Robert Green wrote:
"Fake ID" wrote in message
...
I got the autofucos issues worked out on my PointOrShoot camera and
took some pictures of the aftermath. The macro mode images of the
blown
DIP look even more dramatic than with the naked eye.
Some rudimentary html and the images can be found at:

http://www.sonic.net/~mball/CFL/

What kind of Nikon?

Coolpix SQ--last of the swivel bodies, AFAIK.

I think you're right. I own quite a few Coolpic 950's and one or two of the
later models. Great cameras except for a fatal flaw with the battery door.
After years of battling Nikon with the issue, I finally proved (to my
satisfaction at least) that they used inferior materials. I bought a brand
new, never been opened model, loaded it with batteries for the first time
ever and watched the door slowly open itself because the plastic tabs
holding the door in place had just broken off from being put under stress.
The plastic latches should have been made out of metal or at least out of a
plastic that didn't weaken and fail just because of age.

People with CPD can get a good blast of very nasty fumes when a CFL dies.
She removes all bulbs in her sewing/office areas when they either show
blackening or start humming (that's a few, now) to avoid breathing that
stuff in during yet-another smoky CFL bulb failure. I'm hoping "death by
stinkout" is something they really get squared away in the future. The
worst an incandescent bulb has done around here is flare out.

The room did stink like it was still burning for about a day.
It's definitely a "this might be toxic" odor.

Fortunately, they seem to only fail like that when they're running so most
people won't be inhaling a lung or two full of that poison while they're
sleeping. As you note, the smell definitely lingers and for someone who's
sensitive to those sorts of things, like my wife, it's unpleasant.

Anyway, your "PointOrShoot" seems to have done a remarkable job. Some
cameras can't get close without resorting to tricks (my favorite is
holding
a large magnifying glass in front of the camera lens). I've bought a lot
of
digicams - not one of them is a do-it-all camera. I go back to using my
Sony TRV video-tape cam because the smaller, higher-res cams have
hard-to-work menus in place of the discrete buttons on the Sony.

The SQ has no means to manual focus--auto only. The autofocus will hunt
around, passing through what is clearly in focus, before giving up out
of focus. ****es me off to no end.

The 950 does something quite similar. Last week I was trying to photograph
the bruised mess that a phlebotomist made of my arm, but the camera wouldn't
lock focus because there wasn't anything contrasty enough in the image. I
finally had to stick a kid's Band-aid with printing on it to get it to lock.
I do believe, however, that buried deep in the shooting menu is an AF/MF
option. Might be one on yours because I think many of their swivel head
cameras use a lot of the same chips. I think I might even have a junk SQ in
my parts bin. It's actually a remarkable little camera.

Once you get used to the swivel head it makes other cameras seem antiquated.
Nikon point and shoot cameras have always been a cut above the rest,
especially when it comes to white balance and macro photography. The swivel
head is great for getting photos that aren't the typical eye-level creation.
The Nikon point and shoot I really like the best (not a swivel-head) was the
model they put a small LED projector in. Got it at some half-price sale at
Amazon.

With just 3x optical zoom I sometimes achieve "telephoto" by shooting
through binoculars. Camera construction helps with this since all lens
movement is internal, but, again, the autofocus...

Hmm - just looked up the specs and they say "no manual focus." That's odd.
I know that on the 950's there's also a lot of focus hunting so I usually
depress the shutter halfway to lock the focus and then focus in by moving
the camera. There aren't many cameras that can focus as close as the Nikon
swivel-heads.

--
Bobby G.