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front door chime not working
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 07:29:56 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: On Jan 9, 5:07Â*pm, wrote: Ok, let's work with basic electrical theory. Â*The chime is wired with Â*a two conductor cable. Â*Place a short in that cable anywhere along it's run and you will still have sparks when you short the door switch wires and no power at the chime. Â*Is that more likely than the door chime being the culprit? Â*No and I already agreed the chime should be investigated next. Â* But you can't rule out a short along the way either. Â*It's easy to test for power at the chime with the door switch shorted and that's what I would do. Â*If he doesn't have a tester and doesn't want to spend $10 on one, then he can skip that step. Â*Draw out the circuit. Â*2 options. Transformer to bell to button, or transformer to button to bell. I don't need to draw out the circuit. The chime is a 2 wire device. A 2 wired cable is frequently used to connect to it. That wire runs some length through the house, often to the transformer, where one wire connects to the transformer, the other to one wire going to the door bell button. The doorbell button is another 2 wire device. It frequently is wired with a 2 wire cable back to the transformer where one wire gets connected to the other side of the transformer, completing the circuit. Doesn't get any simpler than that. Except up here I've NEVER seen it done that way. Always 2 wire from trans to chime, and 2 wire to each button. Now let's say the chime is OK. The 2 wire cable connected to it as described above is however shorted somewhere along it's run between the transformer and the chime. You touch the doorbell wires together and you get sparks. That would happen, but it would not be wired according to the instructions with the chime, which, almost universally, has a common (or T for Trans) F (or S) and R connection, and sometimes a 4th connection to act as a Return, where the second wire from each button, and the second wire from the transformer, all join instead of using a wire-nut. That's why I suggested that he listen for a hum at the chime or test for power at the chime with the doorbell wires connected. It quickly rules out the possibility of a short. And if there is power at the chime without pressing the button, from the T to the wire nutted return, he knows it was not "misswired" and there is no short. |
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