I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

On 1/3/2012 9:06 AM, Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

That, I would presume wouldn't be a kiln but the brand name "Kilz"...

Why not follow the recommendations on the can?

--

On Jan 3, 9:06*am, "Doug" wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. *It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. * I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. *I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. *Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

You mean KILZ, I believe. I would wipe the surface with pure
household/laundry bleach on a rag, and then allow it to dry for at
least 24 hours before painting. A hair dryer could speed up the
bleach drying process if you are in a hurry. Then follow the
instructions that are on the paint can.

On Tue, 3 Jan 2012 07:44:03 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jan 3, 9:06*am, "Doug" wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. *It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. * I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. *I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. *Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

You mean KILZ, I believe. I would wipe the surface with pure
household/laundry bleach on a rag, and then allow it to dry for at
least 24 hours before painting. A hair dryer could speed up the
bleach drying process if you are in a hurry. Then follow the
instructions that are on the paint can.


Thank you. And yes, my mistake... I should have written Kilz.

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 09:18:47 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 1/3/2012 9:06 AM, Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

That, I would presume wouldn't be a kiln but the brand name "Kilz"...

Why not follow the recommendations on the can?


Ok, good idea. And yes, my mistake... should be Kilz !!

On 1/3/2012 10:06 AM, Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

It's been my experience that, once wet, sheetrock becomes soft and
powdery. Might be a good idea to dig it out and patch. Wiping the
entire surface with mild solution of cleaner and/or bleach should not
hurt...Kilz is a brand, not a specific primer. Any quality primer
should work just fine if used according to label.

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:53:31 -0500, Norminn
wrote:

On 1/3/2012 10:06 AM, Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

It's been my experience that, once wet, sheetrock becomes soft and
powdery. Might be a good idea to dig it out and patch. Wiping the
entire surface with mild solution of cleaner and/or bleach should not
hurt...Kilz is a brand, not a specific primer. Any quality primer
should work just fine if used according to label.


I will consider this as a last option. The wet ... actually damp spot
is the size of a quarter and tho it's taking a LONG time to fully dry,
I would rather give it the time to dry. So far, the sheetrock seems
firm even in that remaining spot but maybe if I pushed really hard in
that small spot, it might collapse, dunno but I'd rather not do that
at this time. I think(??) that with enough time it will dry tho I'm
beginning to use a hair dryer to help.

On 1/3/2012 1:27 PM, Doug wrote:
On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:53:31 -0500,
wrote:

On 1/3/2012 10:06 AM, Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

It's been my experience that, once wet, sheetrock becomes soft and
powdery. Might be a good idea to dig it out and patch. Wiping the
entire surface with mild solution of cleaner and/or bleach should not
hurt...Kilz is a brand, not a specific primer. Any quality primer
should work just fine if used according to label.


I will consider this as a last option. The wet ... actually damp spot
is the size of a quarter and tho it's taking a LONG time to fully dry,
I would rather give it the time to dry. So far, the sheetrock seems
firm even in that remaining spot but maybe if I pushed really hard in
that small spot, it might collapse, dunno but I'd rather not do that
at this time. I think(??) that with enough time it will dry tho I'm
beginning to use a hair dryer to help.

Seems odd to have a spot that size that takes a long time to dry...I
assume you know the source of the moisture and it is corrected?

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 15:19:14 -0500, Norminn
wrote:

On 1/3/2012 1:27 PM, Doug wrote:
On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:53:31 -0500,
wrote:

On 1/3/2012 10:06 AM, Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

It's been my experience that, once wet, sheetrock becomes soft and
powdery. Might be a good idea to dig it out and patch. Wiping the
entire surface with mild solution of cleaner and/or bleach should not
hurt...Kilz is a brand, not a specific primer. Any quality primer
should work just fine if used according to label.


I will consider this as a last option. The wet ... actually damp spot
is the size of a quarter and tho it's taking a LONG time to fully dry,
I would rather give it the time to dry. So far, the sheetrock seems
firm even in that remaining spot but maybe if I pushed really hard in
that small spot, it might collapse, dunno but I'd rather not do that
at this time. I think(??) that with enough time it will dry tho I'm
beginning to use a hair dryer to help.

Seems odd to have a spot that size that takes a long time to dry...I
assume you know the source of the moisture and it is corrected?


Agreed and yes and yes. Roof vent pipe leak and repaired. Has not
rained since repair so spot should dry. Of course I don't really know
if the leak is repaired for sure until next rain but since it has not
rained, the spot should dry. I'd really like it to dry so I can paint
it before next rain so I know leak is fixed tho I can go back in attic
to check like I did the first time.

I'm going to keep your idea in the back of my head as the last resort.
Hopefully I won't have to do that but I appreciate your idea in case.

Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

Clean the area with a wall cleaner (TSP substitute).

When you paint over Kilz (or any other glossy primer/sealer) the paint
will have a different sheen than the other areas of the wall. If you
want a good match, clean, Kilz, and repaint the entire wall. If that's
not a concern, go ahead and wash, kilz, and paint the stained area. You
can always go back and re-prime and paint if it doesn't turn out.

On Jan 3, 10:06*am, "Doug" wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. *It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. * I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. *I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. *Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

Black spots are probably mold/mildew and are below the surface where
bleach doesn't get to it. I would cut it out since sheet rock is
neither difficult or expensive to replace. Cutting it out from stud to
stud is probably the easiest way to go. This will also give you a
chance to inspect insulation and for other damage.

Jimmie

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 09:06:16 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln.

I had black stuff due to mold, and I thought that bleach would turn it
white. The chlorine bleach killled the mold, but didn't have any
effect on the color, and that's when I realized nothing said it would.

I don't know if you have mold of course, but you also don't have a
cotton or cashmere sweater there.

I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 16:23:11 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 09:06:16 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln.

I had black stuff due to mold, and I thought that bleach would turn it
white. The chlorine bleach killled the mold, but didn't have any
effect on the color,

Repeated tries had no effect on the color. I learn slow.

and that's when I realized nothing said it would.

I don't know if you have mold of course, but you also don't have a
cotton or cashmere sweater there.

I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

Use a kiln? To assist with the drying?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Doug" wrote in message
...

I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the


at this time. I think(??) that with enough time it will dry tho I'm
beginning to use a hair dryer to help.

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:53:31 -0500, Norminn
wrote:



.Kilz is a brand, not a specific primer. Any quality primer
should work just fine if used according to label.


Somewhat true. It is a brand name, but . . . Most latex primers
will allow stains and wood knots to bleed through. Unlike regular
primers, Kilz has 10 different types, both oil and latex based and can
block stains far better than regular primer.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:53:31 -0500, Norminn
wrote:



.Kilz is a brand, not a specific primer. Any quality primer
should work just fine if used according to label.


Somewhat true. It is a brand name, but . . . Most latex primers
will allow stains and wood knots to bleed through. Unlike regular
primers, Kilz has 10 different types, both oil and latex based and can
block stains far better than regular primer.

I second that. Kilz has always worked great for me and I've used probably 4
different types for many different applications. When I find a brand that
works I stick with it.

Doug,

I recently tried the latex Kilz and it didn't cover very well. Even
after three coats. Try the oil-based or another brand.

dss

On 1/3/2012 9:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:53:31 -0500,
wrote:



.Kilz is a brand, not a specific primer. Any quality primer
should work just fine if used according to label.


Somewhat true. It is a brand name, but . . . Most latex primers
will allow stains and wood knots to bleed through. Unlike regular
primers, Kilz has 10 different types, both oil and latex based and can
block stains far better than regular primer.

I think most of the major brands have "stain blocking" primers. I'm
just sayin'.....one important factoid is that they still require the
clean, dry, dust-free surface that reg. paint does. Some folks think
"Kilz" has magic powers and just slap it onto peeling paint or dirty
surfaces.

On Wed, 4 Jan 2012 05:44:03 -0800 (PST), dss
wrote:

Doug,

I recently tried the latex Kilz and it didn't cover very well. Even
after three coats. Try the oil-based or another brand.

dss


dss, I originally had a spray can of Kilz but it's oil based. I
realized that after the Kilz paint is on the wall, I want to match the
color of the wall. However the touch up paint I already have for
this, is a latex paint so I bought a few days ago a can of Latex Kilz
to use instead of the spray can. I will remember your advice just in
case tho. Thank you.

On Wed, 4 Jan 2012 05:44:03 -0800 (PST), dss
wrote:

Doug,

I recently tried the latex Kilz and it didn't cover very well. Even
after three coats. Try the oil-based or another brand.

dss

Did you stir the Kilz frequently? Make sure it is mixed well. I've
never had any fail - used in four houses.

I'm in the desert. We built a roof over the patio. I painted the new
fascia trim and ends of the beam (exposed) with Kiltz water-based.

It sat through several or more summers before I finally painted the
wood. Scuffed it up with some sand paper and the paint went down.

I've covered "red children's drawings" on walls. Couple coats - done.

On Wed, 04 Jan 2012 13:14:32 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 10:07:56 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 09:18:47 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 1/3/2012 9:06 AM, Doug wrote:
I want to use Kiln on the sheetrock where an old (now dry) water spot
was. It's brown and slightly black spots in a small area of the
sheetrock. I was thinking to either apply 2 or 3 coats of kiln
before the correct matching paint or perhaps a little bleach on the
spot and allowed to dry before applying kiln. I might also lightly
sand the wall before either method. Which method do you think I
should consider to do?

That, I would presume wouldn't be a kiln but the brand name "Kilz"...

Why not follow the recommendations on the can?


Ok, good idea. And yes, my mistake... should be Kilz !!

I believe I've seen kilz in spray cans. For a small spot like yours,
just get one of them rather than a whole gallon.
Then follow the directions. You could probably also use gray auto
primer in a spray can. it's oil based so it will likely cover the
spot, and only costs a buck at Walmart or the dollar stores. It's a
light gray color so latex wall paint should cover it easy enough.
BE SURE it's well dry first, like let it sit a few days.


So not to be repetitive, see my later posts but thanks!!

Did you stir the Kilz frequently? *Make sure it is mixed well. *I've
never had any fail - used in four houses.

I'm in the desert. We built a roof over the patio. I painted the new
fascia trim and ends of the beam (exposed) with Kiltz water-based.

It sat through several or more summers before I finally painted the
wood. *Scuffed it up with some sand paper and the paint went down.

I've covered "red children's drawings" on walls. Couple coats - done.

We had some serious ice dam issues last year so they were water spots.
This happens every few years depending on how much snow we get and
when. I've always used the oil-based spray cans (Kilz or Zinsser) and
they cover like magic. I expect the problem was trying to cover water
spots with a water-based sealer.

I contacted the Kilz people and they offered to replace my quart of
the latex with a gallon of the oil, but it wasn't worth jumping
through all their hoops (pictures of the can, the spots and receipts,
etc). I did find an old spray can of Kilz in the basement and it
covered in one coat. I suspect that any brand of latex sealer may have
trouble with water spots. I'll stick with oil in the future.

dss

On Thu, 5 Jan 2012 06:35:42 -0800 (PST), dss
wrote:

Did you stir the Kilz frequently? *Make sure it is mixed well. *I've
never had any fail - used in four houses.

I'm in the desert. We built a roof over the patio. I painted the new
fascia trim and ends of the beam (exposed) with Kiltz water-based.

It sat through several or more summers before I finally painted the
wood. *Scuffed it up with some sand paper and the paint went down.

I've covered "red children's drawings" on walls. Couple coats - done.

We had some serious ice dam issues last year so they were water spots.
This happens every few years depending on how much snow we get and
when. I've always used the oil-based spray cans (Kilz or Zinsser) and
they cover like magic. I expect the problem was trying to cover water
spots with a water-based sealer.

I contacted the Kilz people and they offered to replace my quart of
the latex with a gallon of the oil, but it wasn't worth jumping
through all their hoops (pictures of the can, the spots and receipts,
etc). I did find an old spray can of Kilz in the basement and it
covered in one coat. I suspect that any brand of latex sealer may have
trouble with water spots. I'll stick with oil in the future.

dss


Just started to paint the water spot I had with 4 coats latex Kilz
(wall is latex paint) and now it's covered. I did mix it well but
perhaps didn't apply it thick enough (??) so hence the 4 coats. I'm
debating on applying a 5th coat for the heck of it. It only takes
about 4 minutes to paint the area so not a big deal. Biggest deal is
climbing the 4' step ladder with bad back ... bad balance. I manage
but it's a pain knowing in my younger days I would have laughed at
this comment.