I recently did my very first cat5e wiring in my life (details elsewhere).

The tools for the male connectors weren't too hard to figure out but what
tools do YOU use for the female connectors?

Here, for example, is the sequence of steps for my very first connection
- but the tool I used seems like overkill for the job it's doing.

Do you have better ideas?

For starters, here is the cat5 cable as I bring it UP from a crawl space
five feet above into the wall of a home office (there must be a better
way to bring the cable up through the walls):
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248911.gif

Then, here's that cable up in the office to be wired with female RJ45
connections:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248919.gif

I slit the cat5e outdoor cable with a utility knife (is there something
better to use)?
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248921.gif

Then I lined up the wires for a "B" configuration and used this 'fancy
punch' to press the wires in. Do you use this type of tool?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248922.gif

Since the wires didn't get cut off, I had to twist them off:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248930.gif

Then I clipped them into the wall plate. Is there a rule for which way
the RJ45 connector goes in (ie with the little keystone clip thing on top
or on the bottom?)
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248934.gif

And, here's the final outcome. Is there a rule for placement of the
incoming versus outgoing connections?
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248948.gif

It's already done (my first attempt at wiring cat5e cable) - but I would
like to learn & improve from your experience for the next set (coming
soon so I can wire the upstairs bedroom).

On 12/30/2011 5:27 AM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
I recently did my very first cat5e wiring in my life (details elsewhere).

The tools for the male connectors weren't too hard to figure out but what
tools do YOU use for the female connectors?

Here, for example, is the sequence of steps for my very first connection
- but the tool I used seems like overkill for the job it's doing.

Do you have better ideas?

For starters, here is the cat5 cable as I bring it UP from a crawl space
five feet above into the wall of a home office (there must be a better
way to bring the cable up through the walls):
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248911.gif

Then, here's that cable up in the office to be wired with female RJ45
connections:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248919.gif

I slit the cat5e outdoor cable with a utility knife (is there something
better to use)?
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248921.gif

Then I lined up the wires for a "B" configuration and used this 'fancy
punch' to press the wires in. Do you use this type of tool?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248922.gif

Since the wires didn't get cut off, I had to twist them off:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248930.gif

Then I clipped them into the wall plate. Is there a rule for which way
the RJ45 connector goes in (ie with the little keystone clip thing on top
or on the bottom?)
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248934.gif

And, here's the final outcome. Is there a rule for placement of the
incoming versus outgoing connections?
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248948.gif

It's already done (my first attempt at wiring cat5e cable) - but I would
like to learn& improve from your experience for the next set (coming
soon so I can wire the upstairs bedroom).

I would cut the opening in the wall first. You can use a low voltage
wall frame like this:
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/car...t_detail&p=885

I'm not sure what type of network you're setting up, with a cable "in"
and "out".

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 10:27:54 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

Then I lined up the wires for a "B" configuration and used this 'fancy
punch' to press the wires in. Do you use this type of tool?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248922.gif

Everything looks ok to me except the push on tool. It's really
designed for punching down wires onto a Type 66 or Type 110 telco
block. The punch down tool includes an impact mechanism that is used
with the Type 66 tip to cut off the wire ends against the base of the
Type 66 block.

The Type 110 is the same as the RJ45 jack, so everyone logically
assumes that you should use the same tool and the same technique.
Nope. The impact mechanism in the tool is quite suitable for telco
blocks, but might break the more fragile RJ45 jack. In the retail box
with the RJ45 jack is usually a blue plastic push-on tool, which is
more suitable for the purpose. You can also use the punch down tool
if you do NOT push hard enough to engage the impact mechanism.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 12/30/2011 4:27 AM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
I recently did my very first cat5e wiring in my life (details elsewhere).



Then I lined up the wires for a "B" configuration and used this 'fancy
punch' to press the wires in. Do you use this type of tool?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248922.gif

Since the wires didn't get cut off, I had to twist them off:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248930.gif

Then I clipped them into the wall plate. Is there a rule for which way
the RJ45 connector goes in (ie with the little keystone clip thing on top
or on the bottom?)
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248934.gif

And, here's the final outcome. Is there a rule for placement of the
incoming versus outgoing connections?
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248948.gif

It's already done (my first attempt at wiring cat5e cable) - but I would
like to learn& improve from your experience for the next set (coming
soon so I can wire the upstairs bedroom).

Every 110 punch on tool I have seen has a reversible or switchable
"business" end. The punch blade has a cutting end and a non cutting
end. If not reversible there may be a second blade hidden in the tool
handle.

LdB

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 07:24:35 -0500, RBM wrote:
I would cut the opening in the wall first. You can use a low voltage
wall frame like this:
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/car...t_detail&p=885

It was my mistake not to refer to this pictu
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248809.gif

In that picture, it shows I did exactly (almost) what you suggested.

What I did was drill the hole in the wall down the five feet to the crawl
space below - and THEN I pulled the wires through. Only after that, did I
cut the opening for the wall plate as shown in the picture above.

Had I cut the opening first, I would have seen that there was an
electrical wire dangerously close to where I had drilled!

Since that electrical wire went rigidly into a stud exactly where I had
cut, had I moved the drill just an inch further up on the wall, I would
have drilled right through the electrical wire!

Even as it is, with my close miss, I wonder if the cat5e cable is too
close to the electrical wire for safety?

I'm not sure what type of network you're setting up, with a cable "in"
and "out".

There's already a whole thread on just that!
See: Does having multiple RJ45 jacks degrade the Internet signal a lot?

Suffice to say it's a 'star network' which you guys recommended, where
the WISP antenna outside is the WAN 'input' connection which goes to a
POE and then to the broadband router.

All other connections are 'outputs' in the sense that they go from the
LAN output ports on the broadband router back to the wall which then
feeds other portions of the house.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 09:25:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Everything looks ok to me except the push on tool.

I'm amazed (I guess I shouldn't be) that you are spot on right. You
already know that which confused me without me even saying it!

It's really designed for punching down wires onto a Type 66
or Type 110 telco block.

That's why it felt like overkill and didn't work to cut the wires!

(I didn't realize this until you just said it - but something didn't feel
right when I tried to understand the tool, what with it's adjustable
'impact settings' and the wire cutter that didn't cut the wires!)

The punch down tool includes an impact mechanism that is used
with the Type 66 tip to cut off the wire ends against the base
of the Type 66 block.

Until you said that, I couldn't figure out 'why' there was an adjustable
impact settings. It didn't seem to make sense for what I was using it
for. I realize now it's the wrong tool!

The Type 110 is the same as the RJ45 jack, so everyone logically assumes
that you should use the same tool and the same technique. Nope.

I asked at Home Depot what tool to use - and this is the $20 tool the guy
gave me. I don't blame him (he didn't have to help me) ... but I do thank
you for explaining why it just felt wrong while I was using it.

Don't get me wrong, it worked (sort of, as it didn't cut the wires). It
just didn't feel like it was the right tool for the right job at the time
of using it. Now I know why.


The impact mechanism in the tool ... might break the more fragile
RJ45 jack.

It did feel like it was pounding in the wires!

In the retail box with the RJ45 jack is usually a blue
plastic push-on tool, which is more suitable

I saw those little tools with the jacks. They were about $5 as opposed to
about $3 for each of the RJ45 female jacks. So, in hind sight, I should
have bought one of the female jacks with the tool, and two of the female
jacks without the tool.

But, since I was buying the Home Depot-recommended $20 tool, I figured it
would be extraneous to buy the jack with the plastic throw-away tool.

My mistake. Lesson learned. I'm glad you told me (and anyone who reads
this in the future will be forewarned).

You can also use the punch down tool if you do NOT push
hard enough to engage the impact mechanism.

Now you tell me!

Actually, all your advice will still help me because I plan on adding an
upstairs bedroom to my office wall plate.

The only problem at the moment is figuring out HOW to get up through the
wall to the upstairs bedroom because the wall is about in the middle of
the floor of the upstairs bedroom - so I can't (yet) figure out how to
get to it (I may have to go outside and then back in down the outside
wall. Yuck.)

On 12/30/2011 4:30 PM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 07:24:35 -0500, RBM wrote:
I would cut the opening in the wall first. You can use a low voltage
wall frame like this:
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/car...t_detail&p=885

It was my mistake not to refer to this pictu
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248809.gif

In that picture, it shows I did exactly (almost) what you suggested.

What I did was drill the hole in the wall down the five feet to the crawl
space below - and THEN I pulled the wires through. Only after that, did I
cut the opening for the wall plate as shown in the picture above.

Had I cut the opening first, I would have seen that there was an
electrical wire dangerously close to where I had drilled!

Since that electrical wire went rigidly into a stud exactly where I had
cut, had I moved the drill just an inch further up on the wall, I would
have drilled right through the electrical wire!

Even as it is, with my close miss, I wonder if the cat5e cable is too
close to the electrical wire for safety?

I'm not sure what type of network you're setting up, with a cable "in"
and "out".

There's already a whole thread on just that!
See: Does having multiple RJ45 jacks degrade the Internet signal a lot?

Suffice to say it's a 'star network' which you guys recommended, where
the WISP antenna outside is the WAN 'input' connection which goes to a
POE and then to the broadband router.

All other connections are 'outputs' in the sense that they go from the
LAN output ports on the broadband router back to the wall which then
feeds other portions of the house.

This is why you would cut the wall opening first. You can see what may
be in the path of your drill and avoid it. The opening also makes it
easier to negotiate the path of the drill bit.
So your router is going at this location. Your wisp input is the Wan to
the router, and you only have one LAN output, to the game room?

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:02:05 -0600, LdB wrote:
Every 110 punch on tool I have seen has a reversible or switchable
"business" end. The punch blade has a cutting end and a non cutting
end. If not reversible there may be a second blade hidden in the tool
handle.

The darn thing didn't come with any instructions!

The label says "898-110" "Commercial Electric" "Impact Punch Down Tool
with 110 Blade", Made in China, Distributed by Home Depot U.S.A., Inc.

The text only says (in English & Spanish):
- Terminates & Cuts in a Single Punch (it didn't cut wires for me!)
- Increased Hi-Lo Impact Force (which was meaningless for my purpose)
- Rubber Embedded Cushion Grip for comfort (which didn't matter to me)

And that's it!

I now realize, from what Jeff said, it's the wrong tool for the wrong
job. I should have stuck with the $2 dollar (additional) plastic tool
that comes with (some of) the female RJ45 jacks.

Lesson learned!

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:51:18 -0500, RBM wrote:
This is why you would cut the wall opening first. You can see what may
be in the path of your drill and avoid it. The opening also makes it
easier to negotiate the path of the drill bit.

Now you tell me!

Actually, it's a lesson learned for me. NEXT time (like when I do the
upstairs bedroom), I'll locate the studs and cut the opening first!

BTW, the little orange box didn't come with a template - so I reversed it
and poked four little holes in the wallboard with a sharp-tipped dart to
mark the corners.

I cut the wallboard with a utility knife - but I messed it up (and almost
cut into the electrical wire which I didn't know what there).

Do you guys use a 'punch' of sorts to cut out the wallboard rectangle?

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:51:18 -0500, RBM wrote:

So your router is going at this location. Your wisp input is the Wan to
the router, and you only have one LAN output, to the game room?

Here's the wiring diagram of what you see connected:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/7223906.jpg

What that additional RJ45 square hole in the wall plate is for is another
wire going to the upstairs bedroom, just above the office.

The only problem is that the lower-floor office wall is in the middle of
the floor of the upper bedroom - so I still haven't figured out how to
get a wire from that wall plate, up the wall (if possible) and then
somehow to a wall in the upstairs bedroom (I may have to go outside and
shoot straight up the outside wall).

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 21:42:45 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

I saw those little tools with the jacks. They were about $5 as opposed to
about $3 for each of the RJ45 female jacks. So, in hind sight, I should
have bought one of the female jacks with the tool, and two of the female
jacks without the tool.

$3 for that little tool? SCZ Electronics has a pile of them at the
counter for $1/ea. I have one on my keychain.

This might also help:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=401989&section=27314
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkXmIbKL0X8

But, since I was buying the Home Depot-recommended $20 tool, I figured it
would be extraneous to buy the jack with the plastic throw-away tool.

Keep the tool. It might be handy if you decide to do structured
wiring, where almost everything is connected via a Type 110 connection
block. It's also easier to use than the small plastic one included
with the jacks.

More such tools:
http://ftaelectronics.ca/home/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=367

You can also use the punch down tool if you do NOT push
hard enough to engage the impact mechanism.

Now you tell me!

There's plenty on the internet on how to do it. For example:
http://academy.delmar.edu/Courses/ITNW2313/icat5.htm
Note that the excess wires are clipped off AFTER the covers are placed
over the RJ45 jack. Otherwise, methinks it's obvious that you're not
going to cut off the excess wires with the tool unless it's resting
against an anvil to help with the cutting. That's available in Type
66 and 110 blocks, but not on an RJ45 jack.

The only problem at the moment is figuring out HOW to get up through the
wall to the upstairs bedroom because the wall is about in the middle of
the floor of the upstairs bedroom - so I can't (yet) figure out how to
get to it (I may have to go outside and then back in down the outside
wall. Yuck.)

Find a mouse. Punch a mouse size hole in the wall at both the entry
and exit points. Tie a string to the mouse's tail. Insert mouse into
wall. Wait until the mouse exits through the other hold. If mouse
refuses to exit, add peanut butter to something near the exit hole.
When mouse is through, untie string, and release mouse. Use string to
pull through a pull rope.

I've actually done this when running cable through underground
conduit. It works but requires a cooperative mouse and some patience.


--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

On 12/30/2011 1:42 PM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 09:25:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Everything looks ok to me except the push on tool.

I'm amazed (I guess I shouldn't be) that you are spot on right. You
already know that which confused me without me even saying it!

It's really designed for punching down wires onto a Type 66
or Type 110 telco block.

That's why it felt like overkill and didn't work to cut the wires!

(I didn't realize this until you just said it - but something didn't feel
right when I tried to understand the tool, what with it's adjustable
'impact settings' and the wire cutter that didn't cut the wires!)

The punch down tool includes an impact mechanism that is used
with the Type 66 tip to cut off the wire ends against the base
of the Type 66 block.

Until you said that, I couldn't figure out 'why' there was an adjustable
impact settings. It didn't seem to make sense for what I was using it
for. I realize now it's the wrong tool!

The Type 110 is the same as the RJ45 jack, so everyone logically assumes
that you should use the same tool and the same technique. Nope.

I asked at Home Depot what tool to use - and this is the $20 tool the guy
gave me. I don't blame him (he didn't have to help me) ... but I do thank
you for explaining why it just felt wrong while I was using it.

Don't get me wrong, it worked (sort of, as it didn't cut the wires). It
just didn't feel like it was the right tool for the right job at the time
of using it. Now I know why.


The impact mechanism in the tool ... might break the more fragile
RJ45 jack.

It did feel like it was pounding in the wires!

In the retail box with the RJ45 jack is usually a blue
plastic push-on tool, which is more suitable

I saw those little tools with the jacks. They were about $5 as opposed to
about $3 for each of the RJ45 female jacks. So, in hind sight, I should
have bought one of the female jacks with the tool, and two of the female
jacks without the tool.

But, since I was buying the Home Depot-recommended $20 tool, I figured it
would be extraneous to buy the jack with the plastic throw-away tool.

My mistake. Lesson learned. I'm glad you told me (and anyone who reads
this in the future will be forewarned).

You can also use the punch down tool if you do NOT push
hard enough to engage the impact mechanism.

Now you tell me!

Actually, all your advice will still help me because I plan on adding an
upstairs bedroom to my office wall plate.

The only problem at the moment is figuring out HOW to get up through the
wall to the upstairs bedroom because the wall is about in the middle of
the floor of the upstairs bedroom - so I can't (yet) figure out how to
get to it (I may have to go outside and then back in down the outside
wall. Yuck.)

it was the proper tool. those jacks are just like a 110 block and have
a ledge for the knife to cut against. It just wasn't being used
properly with a proper backing.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 12/30/2011 1:55 PM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:51:18 -0500, RBM wrote:
This is why you would cut the wall opening first. You can see what may
be in the path of your drill and avoid it. The opening also makes it
easier to negotiate the path of the drill bit.

Now you tell me!

Actually, it's a lesson learned for me. NEXT time (like when I do the
upstairs bedroom), I'll locate the studs and cut the opening first!

BTW, the little orange box didn't come with a template - so I reversed it
and poked four little holes in the wallboard with a sharp-tipped dart to
mark the corners.

I cut the wallboard with a utility knife - but I messed it up (and almost
cut into the electrical wire which I didn't know what there).

Do you guys use a 'punch' of sorts to cut out the wallboard rectangle?

personally, i just make a big enough hole for the back of the jacks, and
then use screw in sheetrock anchors to mount the plate. No box frame
needed.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 15:25:18 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Note that the excess wires are clipped off AFTER the covers are placed
over the RJ45 jack. Otherwise, methinks it's obvious that you're not
going to cut off the excess wires with the tool unless it's resting
against an anvil

Hi Jeff,

That is obvious ... um ... er ... but only after it's obvious.

For example, I hadn't thought about it ... and I had expected the tool to
do the snipping (since it had a knife blade). Of course, the tool didn't
snip (because it's the wrong tool for that job).

So I twisted it off (without thinking of what you just said).

So, NEXT TIME, I 'will' put the cover on before twisting the leads off.

Thanks for the tip. Anyone reading this will have a head start on me
(which is a good thing)!

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 15:25:18 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I've actually done this when running cable through underground conduit.
It works but requires a cooperative mouse and some patience.

It almost sounds serious!

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:05:59 -0800, Steve Barker wrote:

It just wasn't being used
properly with a proper backing.

Well, I 'was' on soft carpet. Next time, I'd put a board under me when
snipping it. You don't have much leeway on surfaces as the wire length is
only protruding so much from the wall and you can't wire ahead of time.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 22:06:16 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:51:18 -0500, RBM wrote:

So your router is going at this location. Your wisp input is the Wan to
the router, and you only have one LAN output, to the game room?

Here's the wiring diagram of what you see connected:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/7223906.jpg

What that additional RJ45 square hole in the wall plate is for is another
wire going to the upstairs bedroom, just above the office.

The only problem is that the lower-floor office wall is in the middle of
the floor of the upper bedroom - so I still haven't figured out how to
get a wire from that wall plate, up the wall (if possible) and then
somehow to a wall in the upstairs bedroom (I may have to go outside and
shoot straight up the outside wall).


I think you will need to cut a couple holes in the drywall and use a
fish tape (eg:
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-fish-tape-38156.html) to pull the
wire (or string) through. In the ceiling, you want to go "with the
beams".

Cut your hole in the drywall near a stud so it can be nailed back in
easily. I use a razor knife to cut the hole down the middle of a
stud, that makes it easy to nail it back up. You can use a drywall
saw (eg:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...saw-66611.html)
to cut your holes outside the stud. Make the holes big enough to get
your drill where needed.

You can buy drywall tape and patching mud to repair the holes. I hope
you saved some original paint for touch-ups.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 10:27:54 +0000, Chuck Banshee wrote:
Is there a rule for which way the RJ45 connector goes in
(ie with the little keystone clip thing on top or bottom?)
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248934.gif

Nobody addressed this to my knowledge so can I 'assume' it doesn't matter
which way the keystone goes (up or down)?

Without any convention to go by, I put the clip-side up because I assumed
my thumb would be on top when removing the cable.

But I don't know if there is a 'convention' like there is for electrical
outlets of the ground being on the bottom.

On Fri, 6 Jan 2012 15:41:38 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 10:27:54 +0000, Chuck Banshee wrote:
Is there a rule for which way the RJ45 connector goes in
(ie with the little keystone clip thing on top or bottom?)
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248934.gif

Nobody addressed this to my knowledge so can I 'assume' it doesn't matter
which way the keystone goes (up or down)?

There's no standard, but in general, I use clip side DOWN. That has
no benefits for wall jacks that have plugs installed doing something
useful. However, if the wall jack is unused, it's best to have the
gold connections on the TOP of the jack, so that dirt, dust, crud,
filth, and liquids do not land and accumulate on the connections. I've
had to clean out the gold wires from wall jacks that were mounted
wrong.

Without any convention to go by, I put the clip-side up because I assumed
my thumb would be on top when removing the cable.

If you look at the wall plates that have built in labels, the labels
would obviously go above the connector. The orientation of the RJ45
jack then becomes apparent. This is not a very good photo, but the
best I could find:
http://www.showmecables.com/images/catalog/product/ICRDSV05AL.jpg
Note the labels above the connectors, and the resultant jack
orientation of clip side DOWN.

But I don't know if there is a 'convention' like there is for electrical
outlets of the ground being on the bottom.

There is, but it's not rigid. The problem is that wall mounted jacks
are fairly well protected, so it's not really important.

The typical "muffin" surface mount box is a problem.
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/225934099/surface_mount_box.jpg
Many installers will attach these to the baseboard with the jacks
pointing UP. That makes it easy to get to the jacks, but also turns
the jack into a funnel shaped collector of debris and crud. Pointing
the connectors down makes no sense, leaving mounting it so the jacks
are on the sides as the least disgusting method of attachment.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 09:27:09 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
can I 'assume' it doesn't matter which way the keystone goes

There's no standard, but in general, I use clip side DOWN.
... so that dirt, dust, crud, filth, ...
... do not land and accumulate on the connections.

Interesting perspective.

Makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the insight Jeff, yet again.

You are the best!

replying to Jeff Liebermann, Dr Ted wrote:
jeffl wrote:

On Fri, 6 Jan 2012 15:41:38 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
There's no standard, but in general, I use clip side DOWN. That has
no benefits for wall jacks that have plugs installed doing something
useful. However, if the wall jack is unused, it's best to have the
gold connections on the TOP of the jack, so that dirt, dust, crud,
filth, and liquids do not land and accumulate on the connections. I've
had to clean out the gold wires from wall jacks that were mounted
wrong.
If you look at the wall plates that have built in labels, the labels
would obviously go above the connector. The orientation of the RJ45
jack then becomes apparent. This is not a very good photo, but the
best I could find:
http://www.showmecables.com/images/catalog/product/ICRDSV05AL.jpg
Note the labels above the connectors, and the resultant jack
orientation of clip side DOWN.
There is, but it's not rigid. The problem is that wall mounted jacks
are fairly well protected, so it's not really important.
The typical "muffin" surface mount box is a problem.
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/225934099/surface_mount_box.jpg
Many installers will attach these to the baseboard with the jacks
pointing UP. That makes it easy to get to the jacks, but also turns
the jack into a funnel shaped collector of debris and crud. Pointing
the connectors down makes no sense, leaving mounting it so the jacks
are on the sides as the least disgusting method of attachment.



Just to go over the point of jack orientation, the reasoning for mounting
the wall jack with the retaining clip "Down" is to have the contacts of
the RJ-45 on the top (up) so in the event debris were to collect in the
wall jack it will not contact the exposed contacts inside the jack causing
a short and thus causing a network problem.

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