I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14 x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings. It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R

Roanin wrote:
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14 x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings. It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R


I think you take (square feet of surface X deltaT inF )/R-value = btu/hr


http://www.pexuniverse.com/content/calculate-heat-loss

On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 21:54:38 -0500, "Roanin"
wrote:

I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14 x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings. It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R



Sounds a bit light to me. How did you come up with that number? Thee
are some calculators on line that will help you. You have to include
window area also for a really accurate number.

On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 21:54:38 -0500, "Roanin"
wrote:

I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14 x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings. It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

'work in'? Man cave or workshop? To me, 'Man cave' implies' warm
enough to lounge around-- workshop would want to be cool enough so you
don't sweat all over your work.

You need to figure in windows, doors, and 'infiltration'.

Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F & hope to have a party in
an hour.

Jim

"mike" wrote in message
...
Roanin wrote:
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is
14 x 20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and
ceilings. It is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I
am located in central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I
need to make it relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out.
Near as I can figure I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is
correct?
Thanks,

R
I think you take (square feet of surface X deltaT inF )/R-value = btu/hr


http://www.pexuniverse.com/content/calculate-heat-loss

Thanks Mike I will check that site out.

R

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 21:54:38 -0500, "Roanin"
wrote:

I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14
x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings.
It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can
figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

'work in'? Man cave or workshop? To me, 'Man cave' implies' warm
enough to lounge around-- workshop would want to be cool enough so you
don't sweat all over your work.

You need to figure in windows, doors, and 'infiltration'.

Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F & hope to have a party in
an hour.

Jim

Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.

R

"Roanin" wrote:

-snip-

Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F & hope to have a party in
an hour.


Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.


In that case- throw out all the BTU factors and whatnot, and put a
torpedo heater there to bring you up to comfort level. [100k wouldn't
be overkill]

Or look into infra-red heating. Then you need to pay more
attention to the surfaces in the room-- color and material.

You don't say what kind of fuel you'd prefer. That might affect how
much it pays to just over-build to capacity.

Jim

On Dec 8, 8:27*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"Roanin" wrote:

-snip-



Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F & hope to have a party in
an hour.

Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.

In that case- throw out all the BTU factors and whatnot, and put a
torpedo heater there to bring you up to comfort level. [100k wouldn't
be overkill]

Or look into infra-red heating. * * * Then you need to pay more
attention to the surfaces in the room-- color and material.

You don't say what kind of fuel you'd prefer. * That might affect how
much it pays to just over-build to capacity.

Jim

I don't know about 100K BTU, which is enough for a whole
house. But I would factor in that you most likely want it to
be able to raise the temp quickly. Scenario being you keep
it off or at a low temp and turn the temp up on the random
times you decide to use it. That's a different usage than
what the standard calculations are based on. For example,
if you size a whole house system, you should wind up
with BTUs that are slightly more than required to maintain
the temp on the coldest day. However, with that sizing, if
you let the house get down to 40, it would take a very long
time to heat it back up, even when it's only 30 outside.
So, I think you need to be large enough to heat the place
quickly. On the other hand, you don't want it so large that there are
short cycles, wide swings, etc.

On 12/8/2011 8:37 AM, wrote:
On Dec 8, 8:27 am, Jim wrote:
wrote:

-snip-



Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F& hope to have a party in
an hour.

Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.

In that case- throw out all the BTU factors and whatnot, and put a
torpedo heater there to bring you up to comfort level. [100k wouldn't
be overkill]

Or look into infra-red heating. Then you need to pay more
attention to the surfaces in the room-- color and material.

You don't say what kind of fuel you'd prefer. That might affect how
much it pays to just over-build to capacity.

Jim

I don't know about 100K BTU, which is enough for a whole
house. But I would factor in that you most likely want it to
be able to raise the temp quickly. Scenario being you keep
it off or at a low temp and turn the temp up on the random
times you decide to use it. That's a different usage than
what the standard calculations are based on. For example,
if you size a whole house system, you should wind up
with BTUs that are slightly more than required to maintain
the temp on the coldest day. However, with that sizing, if
you let the house get down to 40, it would take a very long
time to heat it back up, even when it's only 30 outside.
So, I think you need to be large enough to heat the place
quickly. On the other hand, you don't want it so large that there are
short cycles, wide swings, etc.
Trader4 has a very good point. I have a pretty large basement that is
divided into 3 rooms, insulated from the house above. I use one room,
25' x 16' with 9' ceiling, as a workshop. In the winter it only gets to
about 60 degrees no mater what the outside temperature is. So, I run a
2 electric heaters. It takes about 3 hours of run time, plus my body
heat, plus the added lighting heat, to raise the temperature about 5 or
6 degrees. As the furnace/heat pump is in that room, I plan on adding a
zone for that room. BTW, all the ducts and the furnace itself are
pretty well insulated. Adding the zone only requires a thermostat and a
24VAC damper and maybe a little duct work, as the zone controller is
there and it has 2 spare ports. But, I would have the whole 100K + BTUs
available for quicker heating. The furnace is propane, so I suspect
when there is a large difference between the room temperature and the
set point, it would kick in the propane.

Need to know if you're maintaing temp all the time, or just a quick warm up
for occasional use. For quick warm up, an over size heater may be needed,
for rapid temp rise.

Of course, you could do the practical trying out method. Try one plug in
space heater, typically 5,200 BTU. If that isn't enough, try a second. Three
is fairly close to your 14k. Once you get a rough idea how much BTU you
need, then look at natural gas heaters, how to vent the flue, etc.

Just from a wild guess, 14k sounds about right. You can also combine
techniques. Have a gas heater of 14k, and use a plug in space heater for
rapid warm up.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Roanin" wrote in message
...
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14 x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings. It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
Need to know if you're maintaing temp all the time, or just a quick warm
up
for occasional use. For quick warm up, an over size heater may be needed,
for rapid temp rise.

Of course, you could do the practical trying out method. Try one plug in
space heater, typically 5,200 BTU. If that isn't enough, try a second.
Three
is fairly close to your 14k. Once you get a rough idea how much BTU you
need, then look at natural gas heaters, how to vent the flue, etc.

Just from a wild guess, 14k sounds about right. You can also combine
techniques. Have a gas heater of 14k, and use a plug in space heater for
rapid warm up.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Roanin" wrote in message
...
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14
x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings.
It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can
figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R




I will use electric as I do not have gas or the desire to cut a hole in the
wall/ceiling for a flue. That being said, what I am looking for is something
that I can go out and turn on and have it heat it up so it is not freezing.
It will not be on all the time only when I am out there putzing around.
Don't want a kerosene heater as they stink.

R

R

" wrote:

On Dec 8, 8:27*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"Roanin" wrote:

-snip-



Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F & hope to have a party in
an hour.

Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.

In that case- throw out all the BTU factors and whatnot, and put a
torpedo heater there to bring you up to comfort level. [100k wouldn't
be overkill]

-snip-

I don't know about 100K BTU, which is enough for a whole
house.

You made me look. I don't know where 200K came from, but that's
what I thought I had in my un-insulated 2 car garage. It is a 50K.
So I'd cut *that* in half and come up with 25K. [or leave it the same
if there is a window the OP can open- and he might ever want to use it
in a bigger/draftier space]

-snip-
quickly. On the other hand, you don't want it so large that there are
short cycles, wide swings, etc.

It all depends on how you're using the space. I heat mine up for
15-20 minutes, then go to work. When it gets too warm, I take off
my jacket. Then if it gets warm, I turn off the heater. If
I get cool I either put the jacket back on or turn the heater on
again.

$5-600 worth of infrared would make life easier, but it wouldn't be
portable.

Jim

On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 10:26:40 -0500, "Roanin"
wrote:



"Roanin" wrote in message
...
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14
x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings.
It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can
figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R




I will use electric as I do not have gas or the desire to cut a hole in the
wall/ceiling for a flue. That being said, what I am looking for is something
that I can go out and turn on and have it heat it up so it is not freezing.
It will not be on all the time only when I am out there putzing around.
Don't want a kerosene heater as they stink.


If it's electric, first consider the circuit amps you have there.
Common and cheap 120V 1500 watt heaters need a 15 amp circuit.
About 5000 btu/hr each.
After you figure that out, just add them until it suits you.

--Vic

On 12/8/2011 9:26 AM, Roanin wrote:
"Stormin wrote in message
.. .
Need to know if you're maintaing temp all the time, or just a quick warm
up
for occasional use. For quick warm up, an over size heater may be needed,
for rapid temp rise.

Of course, you could do the practical trying out method. Try one plug in
space heater, typically 5,200 BTU. If that isn't enough, try a second.
Three
is fairly close to your 14k. Once you get a rough idea how much BTU you
need, then look at natural gas heaters, how to vent the flue, etc.

Just from a wild guess, 14k sounds about right. You can also combine
techniques. Have a gas heater of 14k, and use a plug in space heater for
rapid warm up.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14
x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings.
It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can
figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R




I will use electric as I do not have gas or the desire to cut a hole in the
wall/ceiling for a flue. That being said, what I am looking for is something
that I can go out and turn on and have it heat it up so it is not freezing.
It will not be on all the time only when I am out there putzing around.
Don't want a kerosene heater as they stink.

R

R


I built a 12' x 20' shed to live in while I was building my house.
The shed is standard 2 x 4 frame construction, R-12 in the walls and
R20 in the ceiling. It was heated with a 240V 4800W construction
heater like this.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/4800...-almond/954396

I slept comfortably in that shed when outside temps were down to -45 Deg.

The heater is now over ten years old and I still use it to heat my 22'
x 28' garage/workshop.

LdB

Roanin wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
Need to know if you're maintaing temp all the time, or just a quick warm
up
for occasional use. For quick warm up, an over size heater may be needed,
for rapid temp rise.

Of course, you could do the practical trying out method. Try one plug in
space heater, typically 5,200 BTU. If that isn't enough, try a second.
Three
is fairly close to your 14k. Once you get a rough idea how much BTU you
need, then look at natural gas heaters, how to vent the flue, etc.

Just from a wild guess, 14k sounds about right. You can also combine
techniques. Have a gas heater of 14k, and use a plug in space heater for
rapid warm up.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Roanin" wrote in message
...
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14
x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings.
It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can
figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R




I will use electric as I do not have gas or the desire to cut a hole in the
wall/ceiling for a flue. That being said, what I am looking for is something
that I can go out and turn on and have it heat it up so it is not freezing.
It will not be on all the time only when I am out there putzing around.
Don't want a kerosene heater as they stink.

R

R


Remember that temperature is not your only problem.
You also gotta consider dew point.
If you have electronics or machinery that can rust,
or furniture that can mildew, you need to worry a LOT
about relative humidity.
That's the reason an unvented combustion heater is a bad choice.
But your body puts out a LOT of moisture that will condense
everywhere that's below the dew point.
You may find you need to add ventilation, and heating that
air as it enters might make the place feel less drafty.

For electric resistance heat, the incremental cost of overkill is
pretty low...as is the cost of adding more if you undershoot.

On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 05:37:09 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 8, 8:27Â*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"Roanin" wrote:

-snip-



Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F & hope to have a party in
an hour.

Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.

In that case- throw out all the BTU factors and whatnot, and put a
torpedo heater there to bring you up to comfort level. [100k wouldn't
be overkill]

Or look into infra-red heating. Â* Â* Â* Then you need to pay more
attention to the surfaces in the room-- color and material.

You don't say what kind of fuel you'd prefer. Â* That might affect how
much it pays to just over-build to capacity.

Jim

I don't know about 100K BTU, which is enough for a whole
house. But I would factor in that you most likely want it to
be able to raise the temp quickly. Scenario being you keep
it off or at a low temp and turn the temp up on the random
times you decide to use it. That's a different usage than
what the standard calculations are based on. For example,
if you size a whole house system, you should wind up
with BTUs that are slightly more than required to maintain
the temp on the coldest day. However, with that sizing, if
you let the house get down to 40, it would take a very long
time to heat it back up, even when it's only 30 outside.
So, I think you need to be large enough to heat the place
quickly. On the other hand, you don't want it so large that there are
short cycles, wide swings, etc.
The SMART way to do it is with multiple units. If you need to come up
to temp quickly, you pull out all the stops - and if you just want to
"keep" it warm you use only a fraction of the total capacity. Easy to
do with electrics, and not hard to do with gas, oil, or propane if you
install a minimum of 2 units. One relativly small unit to maintain
temp, and one "big muthu" to warm up quickly.

On 12/7/2011 9:54 PM, Roanin wrote:
I have a room in my pole barn that I am building for my man cave. It is 14 x
20. I have R19 insulation in the walls and R38 in the floor and ceilings. It
is on the second floor and the ceiling is about 7' tall. I am located in
central Ohio. How would I figure out what size heater I need to make it
relatively comfortable to work in when it is cold out. Near as I can figure
I need about 14,000 BTU, do you think this is correct?
Thanks,

R


Too bad you don't want to go with gas. Sounds like a perfect place for a
Rinnai heater. Quiet, efficient, Very unobtrusive, and very reliable.
I've been installing them for over 15 years, and after we install them,
we usually tell the customer that it's more than likely that they won't
be seeing us again for the heater. Only takes a 3" hole for the vent and
a small hole for the gas line. Check them out at Rinnaiusa.com, or do a
search for Rinnai heaters.

"Tom Lachance" wrote in message
news:C4mdnRQujdcOo3zTnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com...

Too bad you don't want to go with gas. Sounds like a
perfect place for a Rinnai heater. Quiet, efficient, Very
unobtrusive, and very reliable. I've been installing them
for over 15 years, and after we install them, we usually
tell the customer that it's more than likely that they
won't be seeing us again for the heater.


Maybe that's because they wont be alive to call you?

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08199.html

In that case, how much power do you have? If you've got two eaches 15 amp
circuits, you can buy a couple "ceramic" heaters at the hardware, and set
them on the floor. Heat rises, y'know and all. That plus a box fan should be
good for a test. If that's not enough, you can also consider an over head
electric heater with a fan, and wire it for 230 volts. More watts, with the
same wire size.

If you're comfortable with propane, these are effective, and less stinky.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DH-Propa...em27bc8d 7152

Variations available, single burner typically 14,000 BTU.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REDDY-ALL-PR...em256a30 de86

I've got a single burner heater, and have used it for friends when their
heat was out. A lot better than freezing. I have much smaller heater (3,500
BTU in the back of my service van, I have used it while doing work in the
van. Again, much better than freezing. Really makes a difference.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Roanin" wrote in message
...

I will use electric as I do not have gas or the desire to cut a hole in the
wall/ceiling for a flue. That being said, what I am looking for is something
that I can go out and turn on and have it heat it up so it is not freezing.
It will not be on all the time only when I am out there putzing around.
Don't want a kerosene heater as they stink.

R

And, eventually figure how many BTU are actually needed.

This one looks expensive, but should work
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-G-70-Ele...em256a33 1f15

This kind of thing from the store should be inexpensive, and helpful. Put it
on the floor, heat rises.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Ele...em48407d 5fbc

These ceramic heaters, supposed to be safer. No glowing filament, just heat.
Same watts and BTU as the other heaters.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pelonis-1500...em45fe70 773e

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...

If it's electric, first consider the circuit amps you have there.
Common and cheap 120V 1500 watt heaters need a 15 amp circuit.
About 5000 btu/hr each.
After you figure that out, just add them until it suits you.

--Vic

On 12/8/2011 6:38 PM, Sigmund Freud wrote:

"Tom Lachance" wrote in message
news:C4mdnRQujdcOo3zTnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com...

Too bad you don't want to go with gas. Sounds like a perfect place for
a Rinnai heater. Quiet, efficient, Very unobtrusive, and very
reliable. I've been installing them for over 15 years, and after we
install them, we usually tell the customer that it's more than likely
that they won't be seeing us again for the heater.


Maybe that's because they wont be alive to call you?

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08199.html
It was a voluntary recall. I have done many of the recall repairs, not
hundreds, but close. They involved heaters manufactured between 2000 and
2007. It involved a gasket replacement and gas pressure adjustment.
That number represents a small portion of the total number of heaters
out there. They are sealed combustion, direct vent units.
You might thinking of unvented units. I don't like installing them. I
try to discourage people from installing them.

On Dec 8, 4:45*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 05:37:09 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Dec 8, 8:27*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"Roanin" wrote:

-snip-

Then decide whether you're going to keep it warm all the time, or if
you're going to go out there when it is -20F & hope to have a party in
an hour.

Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.

In that case- throw out all the BTU factors and whatnot, and put a
torpedo heater there to bring you up to comfort level. [100k wouldn't
be overkill]

Or look into infra-red heating. * * * Then you need to pay more
attention to the surfaces in the room-- color and material.

You don't say what kind of fuel you'd prefer. * That might affect how
much it pays to just over-build to capacity.

Jim

I don't know about 100K BTU, which is enough for a whole
house. *But I would factor in that you most likely want it to
be able to raise the temp quickly. *Scenario being you keep
it off or at a low temp and turn the temp up on the random
times you decide to use it. * That's a different usage than
what the standard calculations are based on. * For example,
if you size a whole house system, you should wind up
with BTUs that are slightly more than required to maintain
the temp on the coldest day. * However, with that sizing, if
you let the house get down to 40, it would take a very long
time to heat it back up, even when it's only 30 outside.
So, I think you need to be large enough to heat the place
quickly. *On the other hand, you don't want it so large that there are
short cycles, wide swings, etc.

*The SMART way to do it is with multiple units. If you need to come up
to temp quickly, you pull out all the stops - and if you just want to
"keep" it warm you use only a fraction of the total capacity. Easy to
do with electrics, and not hard to do with gas, oil, or propane if you
install a minimum of 2 units. One relativly small unit to maintain
temp, and one "big muthu" to warm up quickly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see multiple gas
or oil units being smart. It's one 280 sqft room. Just get one
that's sized to heat
the room from being cold when unoccupied to 65F in
a reasonable time, say 30 mins to an hour?
With electric, being easier to install, no service, cheap, etc,
then I could see using multiple units, primarily if it's desirable
to heat the whole space more evenly. But for a shop, maybe
all he really cares about, at least for quick heat up, is one area
around a workbench, etc. In which case one electric could be
fine.

On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 07:37:16 -0500, "Roanin"
wrote:

Actually it is just a room that I want to make comfortable when I go out
there to do whatever. Probably will not be out there when it is -20F. Who
knows what I will use it for. Plans are always changing.

This makes me think of the old motel room's HVAC units through the
wall. Push buttons for heat or cooling.

Mitsubishi may have a modern version. Maybe even a heater if you have
no need for air conditioning.

..