I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce

On Nov 30, 7:58*pm, "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce

Is there a chemical difference between clear and white other than
pigment? The recommendation to use white might be to give a certain
"backdrop" for those wallpapers that you can see through a ittlle.

On 11/30/11 09:21 pm, hr(bob) wrote:
On Nov 30, 7:58 pm, "Percival P. wrote:
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Is there a chemical difference between clear and white other than
pigment? The recommendation to use white might be to give a certain
"backdrop" for those wallpapers that you can see through a ittlle.

The MSDS sheets show considerably different ingredients:

White:
Calcium Carbonate
Ethylene Glycol
Limestone
Talc
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide

Clear:
Magnesium Silicate
Crystalline Silica
Magnesium Chloride

Perce

Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a
qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat
I checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the
paper, only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I
should use the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans
nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?


I don't think any particular primer is necessary. The purpose of the sealer
is to seal the drywall so it doesn't suck the moisture out of the wallpaper
paste before it can adhere properly.

I sanded down one wall in the Great Room (formerly known as the "living
room"). Nasty job, but it got rid of the drywall texturing. I then painted
the wall with two coats of some white latex paint I had on hand. This served
as the basis for a thirteen-foot mural wallpaper, constructed out of ten
panels.

In your case, you already have one coat of sealer. Try slapping a piece of
wet paper on the wall and see, after twenty minutes or so, whether the wall
has absorbed any moisture. If not, you're good to go. If the wall is soggy
or wet, another coat of something (Kilz, sealer, paint, etc.) is indicated.

On 12/01/11 08:29 am, HeyBub wrote:

I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a
qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat
I checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the
paper, only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I
should use the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans
nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

I don't think any particular primer is necessary. The purpose of the sealer
is to seal the drywall so it doesn't suck the moisture out of the wallpaper
paste before it can adhere properly.

I sanded down one wall in the Great Room (formerly known as the "living
room"). Nasty job, but it got rid of the drywall texturing. I then painted
the wall with two coats of some white latex paint I had on hand. This served
as the basis for a thirteen-foot mural wallpaper, constructed out of ten
panels.

In your case, you already have one coat of sealer. Try slapping a piece of
wet paper on the wall and see, after twenty minutes or so, whether the wall
has absorbed any moisture. If not, you're good to go. If the wall is soggy
or wet, another coat of something (Kilz, sealer, paint, etc.) is indicated.

The surface still feels rough, not as though it has been sealed at all:
no smooth film on the surface. The composition of the two kinds of
Shieldz is totally different.

But I will try your suggested test.

Perce

On 11/30/2011 11:29 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 11/30/11 09:21 pm, hr(bob) wrote:
On Nov 30, 7:58 pm, "Percival P. wrote:
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Is there a chemical difference between clear and white other than
pigment? The recommendation to use white might be to give a certain
"backdrop" for those wallpapers that you can see through a ittlle.

The MSDS sheets show considerably different ingredients:

White:
Calcium Carbonate
Ethylene Glycol
Limestone
Talc
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide

Clear:
Magnesium Silicate
Crystalline Silica
Magnesium Chloride

Perce

Forget the CHEMISTRY...their website has TDS (Technical Data Sheets)
that give all the specs you need to know, he
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/t...eldz_Clear.pdf

The most important part is the PRIMER for new dry wall; it has to be
primed, no matter what goes on after that (paint or paper). Size
essentially is to make paper easier to apply, as it helps make paper a
little more moveable during application to line up seams properly.
Wallpaper paste can be used as "size". The link is for clear
primer/size, so it sounds like you are good to go. There are several
wallpaper primers, he
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.asp?bid=19

From brief reading, it appears the main difference between white and
clear is when color blocking is needed, as with light color paper over
strongly colored base. Good luck.

On 12/01/11 09:25 am, Norminn wrote:

I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a
qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should
use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Is there a chemical difference between clear and white other than
pigment? The recommendation to use white might be to give a certain
"backdrop" for those wallpapers that you can see through a ittlle.

The MSDS sheets show considerably different ingredients:

White:
Calcium Carbonate
Ethylene Glycol
Limestone
Talc
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide

Clear:
Magnesium Silicate
Crystalline Silica
Magnesium Chloride

Perce

Forget the CHEMISTRY...their website has TDS (Technical Data Sheets)
that give all the specs you need to know, he
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/t...eldz_Clear.pdf

But from that document:

"On drywall that has been skimcoated with drywall mud or spackling
compound apply 2 coats of SHIELDZ WHITE."

Perce

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I checked
online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper, only to
find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should use the white
Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells it in quart
cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces should be
primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will result in damage to
the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if it says strippable.

Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will help hide
the seams for darker papers.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On 12/1/2011 10:00 AM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 12/01/11 09:25 am, Norminn wrote:

I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a
qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the
paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should
use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Is there a chemical difference between clear and white other than
pigment? The recommendation to use white might be to give a certain
"backdrop" for those wallpapers that you can see through a ittlle.

The MSDS sheets show considerably different ingredients:

White:
Calcium Carbonate
Ethylene Glycol
Limestone
Talc
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide

Clear:
Magnesium Silicate
Crystalline Silica
Magnesium Chloride

Perce

Forget the CHEMISTRY...their website has TDS (Technical Data Sheets)
that give all the specs you need to know, he
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/t...eldz_Clear.pdf

But from that document:

"On drywall that has been skimcoated with drywall mud or spackling
compound apply 2 coats of SHIELDZ WHITE."

Perce


Skimcoated? Yikes! Yours isn't skimcoated, right? I would guess that
instruction is to cover off-color (if it isn't white) and to seal the
porousness.

Geesh...might be time to email Zinsser and tell 'em their instructions
are confusing )

On 12/01/11 10:44 am, Norminn wrote:

I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a
qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the
paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should
use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody
sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Is there a chemical difference between clear and white other than
pigment? The recommendation to use white might be to give a certain
"backdrop" for those wallpapers that you can see through a ittlle.

The MSDS sheets show considerably different ingredients:

White:
Calcium Carbonate
Ethylene Glycol
Limestone
Talc
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide

Clear:
Magnesium Silicate
Crystalline Silica
Magnesium Chloride

Forget the CHEMISTRY...their website has TDS (Technical Data Sheets)
that give all the specs you need to know, he
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/t...eldz_Clear.pdf

But from that document:

"On drywall that has been skimcoated with drywall mud or spackling
compound apply 2 coats of SHIELDZ WHITE."

Skimcoated? Yikes! Yours isn't skimcoated, right? I would guess that
instruction is to cover off-color (if it isn't white) and to seal the
porousness.

Geesh...might be time to email Zinsser and tell 'em their instructions
are confusing )

Yes, mine *is* skimcoated. But even if I had only spackled the screw
holes, they still say I should use the white stuff.

Perce

Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying
to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I
bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After
applying one coat I checked online to see how long I should wait
before applying the paper, only to find that they say that for use
over mudded drywall I should use the white Shieldz -- but although
it's made in quart cans nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if it
says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it dries.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying
to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I
bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After
applying one coat I checked online to see how long I should wait
before applying the paper, only to find that they say that for use
over mudded drywall I should use the white Shieldz -- but although
it's made in quart cans nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if it
says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in the gloss
type.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 07:29:43 -0600, "HeyBub" wrote:

Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a
qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat
I checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the
paper, only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I
should use the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans
nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?


I don't think any particular primer is necessary. The purpose of the sealer
is to seal the drywall so it doesn't suck the moisture out of the wallpaper
paste before it can adhere properly.

There is a *lot* more to it than that. If the drywall isn't sealed before
applying the wallpaper, good luck on getting it off without destroying the
drywall. DAMHIKT.

I sanded down one wall in the Great Room (formerly known as the "living
room"). Nasty job, but it got rid of the drywall texturing. I then painted
the wall with two coats of some white latex paint I had on hand. This served
as the basis for a thirteen-foot mural wallpaper, constructed out of ten
panels.

In your case, you already have one coat of sealer. Try slapping a piece of
wet paper on the wall and see, after twenty minutes or so, whether the wall
has absorbed any moisture. If not, you're good to go. If the wall is soggy
or wet, another coat of something (Kilz, sealer, paint, etc.) is indicated.

On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
om...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying
to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I
bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After
applying one coat I checked online to see how long I should wait
before applying the paper, only to find that they say that for use
over mudded drywall I should use the white Shieldz -- but although
it's made in quart cans nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if it
says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in the gloss
type.

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't water soluble,
when dry.

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically,
so I bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After
applying one coat I checked online to see how long I should wait
before applying the paper, only to find that they say that for use
over mudded drywall I should use the white Shieldz -- but although
it's made in quart cans nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if
it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it
dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in the
gloss type.

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't water
soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are less
permeable than latex.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH wrote:

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't water
soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are
less permeable than latex.

I agree that oil-based paints are more secure against water, but if latex
paints were all that permeable, there wouldn't be a market for latex-based
exterior paints! Heck, if latex exterior paints were not immune to water,
everybody in California would be screwed.

No, wait...

Never mind.

On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 07:53:36 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically,
so I bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After
applying one coat I checked online to see how long I should wait
before applying the paper, only to find that they say that for use
over mudded drywall I should use the white Shieldz -- but although
it's made in quart cans nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if
it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it
dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in the
gloss type.

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't water
soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are less
permeable than latex.

It's not. Ask a firefighter. Often, after a fire water, is bulging behind
the paint, like a water balloon. Latex paint is essentially a rubber glove
that goes on liquid. You know, a *latex* glove?

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 07:53:36 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically,
so I bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area).
After applying one coat I checked online to see how long I
should wait before applying the paper, only to find that they
say that for use over mudded drywall I should use the white
Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells it
in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart
cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if
it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it
dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in
the gloss type.

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't
water soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are
less permeable than latex.

It's not. Ask a firefighter. Often, after a fire water, is bulging
behind the paint, like a water balloon. Latex paint is essentially a
rubber glove that goes on liquid. You know, a *latex* glove?

You should let Sherwin-Williams know immediately as rhose dolts say...

Q: Do acrylic latex primers and topcoats "breathe" to allow moisture vapor
to pass through? Does this breathability diminish when a second topcoating
and subsequent repainting is done?

A:Studies have shown 50 gallons of water is vaporized into the air of an
average home each day from cooking, bathing, laundry and people. Much of
this moisture passes through the walls. If the exterior coating traps
moisture, blistering and peeling will occur.

Moisture vapor is more likely to pass through acrylic latex paint films than
through solvent alkyd types.

It's true that application of additional coatings will reduce moisture vapor
transmission, simply on the basis of increased film thickness. However, even
with several coats applied, the latex film will be adequately permeable to
water vapor and better than alkyd paint films of comparable thickness.

Note that water and water vapor are two different things. But both are
"moisture".

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

clipped

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are less
permeable than latex.

It's not. Ask a firefighter. Often, after a fire water, is bulging behind
the paint, like a water balloon. Latex paint is essentially a rubber glove
that goes on liquid. You know, a *latex* glove?


Latex/acryllic is slightly more permeable than alkyd; found that out
when we had our stucco/c.b. condo painted. Web sites for paint co. will
bear that out. FWIW, I don't recall seeing alkyd primer for new
drywall...all I can recall has been latex.

On Dec 3, 5:14*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
wrote:
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 07:53:36 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:

"HeyBub" wrote in message
news:UKGdne9juPNMakrTnZ2dnUVZ_rudnZ2d@earthlin k.com...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically,
so I bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area).
After applying one coat I checked online to see how long I
should wait before applying the paper, only to find that they
say that for use over mudded drywall I should use the white
Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells it
in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart
cans?

Perce

To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if
it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it
dries.

That isn't my understanding of latex paint. *Maybe marginally in
the gloss type.

It is true. *Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't
water soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. *Solvent paints are
less permeable than latex.

It's not. *Ask a firefighter. *Often, after a fire water, is bulging
behind the paint, like a water balloon. *Latex paint is essentially a
rubber glove that goes on liquid. *You know, a *latex* glove?

You should let Sherwin-Williams know immediately as rhose dolts say...

Q: Do acrylic latex primers and topcoats "breathe" to allow moisture vapor
to pass through? Does this breathability diminish when a second topcoating
and subsequent repainting is done?

A:Studies have shown 50 gallons of water is vaporized into the air of an
average home each day from cooking, bathing, laundry and people. Much of
this moisture passes through the walls. If the exterior coating traps
moisture, blistering and peeling will occur.

Moisture vapor is more likely to pass through acrylic latex paint films than
through solvent alkyd types.

It's true that application of additional coatings will reduce moisture vapor
transmission, simply on the basis of increased film thickness. However, even
with several coats applied, the latex film will be adequately permeable to
water vapor and better than alkyd paint films of comparable thickness.

Note that water and water vapor are two different things. *But both are
"moisture".

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Is that water vapor FROM 50 gallons of water evaporating, or is that
50 gallons of water vapor, whatever that means?

On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat) wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang the paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 07:14:06 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:

wrote:
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 07:53:36 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically,
so I bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area).
After applying one coat I checked online to see how long I
should wait before applying the paper, only to find that they
say that for use over mudded drywall I should use the white
Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells it
in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart
cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces
should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if
it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will
help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when it
dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in
the gloss type.

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't
water soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are
less permeable than latex.

It's not. Ask a firefighter. Often, after a fire water, is bulging
behind the paint, like a water balloon. Latex paint is essentially a
rubber glove that goes on liquid. You know, a *latex* glove?

You should let Sherwin-Williams know immediately as rhose dolts say...

Q: Do acrylic latex primers and topcoats "breathe" to allow moisture vapor
to pass through? Does this breathability diminish when a second topcoating
and subsequent repainting is done?

It's got nothing to do with vapor.

A:Studies have shown 50 gallons of water is vaporized into the air of an
average home each day from cooking, bathing, laundry and people. Much of
this moisture passes through the walls. If the exterior coating traps
moisture, blistering and peeling will occur.

Irrelevant.

Moisture vapor is more likely to pass through acrylic latex paint films than
through solvent alkyd types.

More irrelevant nonsense.

It's true that application of additional coatings will reduce moisture vapor
transmission, simply on the basis of increased film thickness. However, even
with several coats applied, the latex film will be adequately permeable to
water vapor and better than alkyd paint films of comparable thickness.

Note that water and water vapor are two different things. But both are
"moisture".

Now, say something relevant to the discussion.

On Sat, 03 Dec 2011 11:58:16 -0500, Norminn wrote:

clipped

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are less
permeable than latex.

It's not. Ask a firefighter. Often, after a fire water, is bulging behind
the paint, like a water balloon. Latex paint is essentially a rubber glove
that goes on liquid. You know, a *latex* glove?


Latex/acryllic is slightly more permeable than alkyd; found that out
when we had our stucco/c.b. condo painted. Web sites for paint co. will
bear that out. FWIW, I don't recall seeing alkyd primer for new
drywall...all I can recall has been latex.

It's made. After my "experience" with paper applied directly to drywall, I
used a shellac based primer under latex. It "eggshelled" terribly. The BM
paint guy said that shellac was much too hard, making the surface too brittle
(for a moist location), causing the paint surface to crack. The fix was an
oil based primer and then another coat of paint. PITA, but worked
beautifully.

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat) wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang the
paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't
protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?
http://www.askthebuilder.com/377_Wal...ight_Way.shtml

"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."

On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 16:59:16 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat) wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang the
paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't
protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?
http://www.askthebuilder.com/377_Wal...ight_Way.shtml

"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."

It's too bad you're illiterate but here, I'll try to help anyway:

"Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that is not primed
^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^
and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear. Drywall repair
may be necessary."

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 07:14:06 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 07:53:36 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned
specifically, so I bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a
small area). After applying one coat I checked online to see
how long I should wait before applying the paper, only to
find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should
use the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans
nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart
cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all
surfaces should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to
do so will result in damage to the drywall when the paper is
removed EVEN if it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background
will help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when
it dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in
the gloss type.

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't
water soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are
less permeable than latex.

It's not. Ask a firefighter. Often, after a fire water, is bulging
behind the paint, like a water balloon. Latex paint is essentially
a rubber glove that goes on liquid. You know, a *latex* glove?

You should let Sherwin-Williams know immediately as rhose dolts
say...

Q: Do acrylic latex primers and topcoats "breathe" to allow moisture
vapor to pass through? Does this breathability diminish when a
second topcoating and subsequent repainting is done?

It's got nothing to do with vapor.

A:Studies have shown 50 gallons of water is vaporized into the air
of an average home each day from cooking, bathing, laundry and
people. Much of this moisture passes through the walls. If the
exterior coating traps moisture, blistering and peeling will occur.

Irrelevant.

Moisture vapor is more likely to pass through acrylic latex paint
films than through solvent alkyd types.

More irrelevant nonsense.

It's true that application of additional coatings will reduce
moisture vapor transmission, simply on the basis of increased film
thickness. However, even with several coats applied, the latex film
will be adequately permeable to water vapor and better than alkyd
paint films of comparable thickness.

Note that water and water vapor are two different things. But both
are "moisture".

Now, say something relevant to the discussion.

I did but you don't have the wit to understand it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Dec 3, 2:59*pm, "gramps" wrote:
wrote in message

...





On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat) wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang the
paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't
protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?http://www.askthebuilder.com/377_Wal..._The_Right_Way...

"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."

from that URL:
"Summary: Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that
is not primed and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear.
Drywall repair may be necessary."

I've always heard, and read on labels, sizing is a thin layer of paste
applied over a 'sealed' surface, too. Plus, sizing the wall with a
thin coat of paste prevents an instantaneous 'drying' of the paste on
the paper, thus allowing one to move it around a bit, AND fill in
rough surfaces with a very thick layer of gluebehind the paper.

On Wed, 30 Nov 2011 20:58:51 -0500, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?

Perce


OP,
Lots of good info in this thread, also enough bull**** to fertilize a
pasture. Go to a real paint store, not Lowes or HD, and tell them what
you have and what you are doing. Let them set you up.

On Sun, 4 Dec 2011 05:39:35 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 07:14:06 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 07:53:36 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 18:11:23 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Colbyt wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before
trying to apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned
specifically, so I bought a qt. can of clear Shieldz (it's a
small area). After applying one coat I checked online to see
how long I should wait before applying the paper, only to
find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should
use the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans
nobody sells it in quart cans.

Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart
cans?

Perce


To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all
surfaces should be primed with an oil base primer. Failure to
do so will result in damage to the drywall when the paper is
removed EVEN if it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background
will help hide the seams for darker papers.

Why oil based? Latex, or water-based, paint is waterproof when
it dries.


That isn't my understanding of latex paint. Maybe marginally in
the gloss type.

It is true. Flat paint may "chalk" some, but latex paint isn't
water soluble, when dry.

Which does not mean it is not water permeable. Solvent paints are
less permeable than latex.

It's not. Ask a firefighter. Often, after a fire water, is bulging
behind the paint, like a water balloon. Latex paint is essentially
a rubber glove that goes on liquid. You know, a *latex* glove?

You should let Sherwin-Williams know immediately as rhose dolts
say...

Q: Do acrylic latex primers and topcoats "breathe" to allow moisture
vapor to pass through? Does this breathability diminish when a
second topcoating and subsequent repainting is done?

It's got nothing to do with vapor.

A:Studies have shown 50 gallons of water is vaporized into the air
of an average home each day from cooking, bathing, laundry and
people. Much of this moisture passes through the walls. If the
exterior coating traps moisture, blistering and peeling will occur.

Irrelevant.

Moisture vapor is more likely to pass through acrylic latex paint
films than through solvent alkyd types.

More irrelevant nonsense.

It's true that application of additional coatings will reduce
moisture vapor transmission, simply on the basis of increased film
thickness. However, even with several coats applied, the latex film
will be adequately permeable to water vapor and better than alkyd
paint films of comparable thickness.

Note that water and water vapor are two different things. But both
are "moisture".

Now, say something relevant to the discussion.

I did but you don't have the wit to understand it.

No, you said nothing relevant. Try again. On second thought...

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 16:59:16 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat) wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for
all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang the
paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall
and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't
protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?
http://www.askthebuilder.com/377_Wal...ight_Way.shtml

"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows
wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."

It's too bad you're illiterate but here, I'll try to help anyway:

"Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that is not
primed
^^^^ ^^ ^^^
^^^^^^
and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear. Drywall repair
may be necessary."


Speaking of illiterate, maybe you'd like to point out where it says to
_paint_. Oh wait, it doesn't. Friggin twit!

On Sun, 4 Dec 2011 12:14:17 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 16:59:16 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat) wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for
all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang the
paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall
and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't
protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?
http://www.askthebuilder.com/377_Wal...ight_Way.shtml

"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows
wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."

It's too bad you're illiterate but here, I'll try to help anyway:

"Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that is not
primed
^^^^ ^^ ^^^
^^^^^^
and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear. Drywall repair
may be necessary."


Speaking of illiterate, maybe you'd like to point out where it says to
_paint_. Oh wait, it doesn't. Friggin twit!

Prime/paint, same deal. You said nothing about either.

Having been bitten by morons, such as you, I would *always* paint with a high
quality paint before papering. Actually, I would never paper, rather leave
that for the bottom of your cage.

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 4 Dec 2011 12:14:17 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 16:59:16 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
m...
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat)
wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for
all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let
dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang
the
paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall
and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't
protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?
http://www.askthebuilder.com/377_Wal...ight_Way.shtml

"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows
wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed
at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."

It's too bad you're illiterate but here, I'll try to help anyway:

"Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that is not
primed
^^^^ ^^ ^^^
^^^^^^
and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear. Drywall
repair
may be necessary."


Speaking of illiterate, maybe you'd like to point out where it says to
_paint_. Oh wait, it doesn't. Friggin twit!

Prime/paint, same deal. You said nothing about either.

You're correct here, _you're_ the one who said something about both!



Having been bitten by morons, such as you, I would *always* paint with a
high
quality paint before papering. Actually, I would never paper, rather
leave
that for the bottom of your cage.

It appears you would also like to "shellac based primer under latex". BTW,
how'd it feel to have the BM person laugh in your face? Speaking of
shellacking, I sure gave you one! LMAO!!!

On Mon, 5 Dec 2011 17:06:28 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 4 Dec 2011 12:14:17 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 16:59:16 -0500, "gramps" wrote:


wrote in message
om...
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 23:19:52 -0700, (Papa Pat)
wrote:

A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for
all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...

Completely different thing.

Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let
dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!

Sizing is essentially a thin paste, used to make it easier to hang
the
paper.
It is *NOT* a replacement for a sealing coat of paint.

The primer size will allow you to move slide the paper on the wall
and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...

Right, but without priming and painting the wall before, sizing won't
protect
the wall from disintegrating when you take the paper off.

So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?
http://www.askthebuilder.com/377_Wal...ight_Way.shtml

"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows
wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed
at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."

It's too bad you're illiterate but here, I'll try to help anyway:

"Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that is not
primed
^^^^ ^^ ^^^
^^^^^^
and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear. Drywall
repair
may be necessary."


Speaking of illiterate, maybe you'd like to point out where it says to
_paint_. Oh wait, it doesn't. Friggin twit!

Prime/paint, same deal. You said nothing about either.

You're correct here, _you're_ the one who said something about both!

No need to demonstrate your illiteracy. We got it.

Having been bitten by morons, such as you, I would *always* paint with a
high
quality paint before papering. Actually, I would never paper, rather
leave
that for the bottom of your cage.

It appears you would also like to "shellac based primer under latex". BTW,
how'd it feel to have the BM person laugh in your face? Speaking of
shellacking, I sure gave you one! LMAO!!!

No, now you're just demonstrating how illogical you are, as well as
illiterate.