I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. I use it frequently during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. You can remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke, and
pulled the rope. It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. I started it
again and the same thing happened. The third time, after it started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. My use sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use that as a
que to quit. I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

On Nov 7, 12:06*am, John Carter wrote:
I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. *I use it frequently during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. *You can remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke, and
pulled the rope. *It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. *I started it
again and the same thing happened. *The third time, after it *started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. *Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. *My use sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use that as a
que to quit. *I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

What I would do, in order.............

Loosen the gas cap to make sure air can get in. No cost
Remove air cleaner and see how it runs. No cost
Check compression. No cost
Replace spark plug. $2-5
Check fuel supply lines for aging, collapse, cracks and etc. No cost.
After all that, then I would clean the carb. No cost usually unless
something is found to be defective.

Hank

Sounds like the metering jet in the carburetor is clogged.
It's a fuel delivery problem.

If you want to try and fix it, unthread the big bolt from
under the carb bowl. Oddly, this "bolt" is actually also the
metering orifice. Look for a very small hole in the end of
the "bolt" and also a teeny small hole about half way up the
side. Wear safety glasses. Working outdoors, blast the small
holes with carb cleaner spray. Or brake cleaner. Very gently
poke the holes out with a stiff wire you yanked out of a
wire brush.

Pull the bowl off the bottom of the carb, and clean out any
dirt particles. The carb bowl gasket is a PIA. It (round
O'ring type) goes around the seal, and push the bowl on
second.

Replace the "bolt". See if things run better.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"John Carter" wrote in message
...
I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8
years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. I use it frequently
during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. You can
remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working
fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh
gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to
choke, and
pulled the rope. It started and I usually wait about 20
seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then
do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. I
started it
again and the same thing happened. The third time, after it
started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it
began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. Repeated
pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer
pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position
or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times
over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. My use
sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use
that as a
que to quit. I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks
normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and
routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next
to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

On Nov 6, 11:06*pm, John Carter wrote:
I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. *I use it frequently during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. *You can remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke, and
pulled the rope. *It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. *I started it
again and the same thing happened. *The third time, after it *started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. *Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. *My use sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use that as a
que to quit. *I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

Do as the Stor' Bore says...but don't take the bowl off. Just clean
the plug/nut/metering jet (the small hole is clogged).

On Nov 7, 6:40*am, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Nov 6, 11:06*pm, John Carter wrote:





I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. *I use it frequently during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. *You can remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke, and
pulled the rope. *It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. *I started it
again and the same thing happened. *The third time, after it *started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. *Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. *My use sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use that as a
que to quit. *I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

Do as the Stor' Bore says...but don't take the bowl off. *Just clean
the plug/nut/metering jet (the small hole is clogged).- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I agree it's likely a carb problem. The main clue is that it
will continue to run if you keep pushing the primer button.
Carb problems are common on these. I would get a carb
rebuild kit, which includes new needle valves, gaskets, welch plugs,
etc. They are available for my tecumseh on Ebay for
$10. Better to just take it apart, clean it completely including
the parts you can't get to without taking out the welch plugs
and be sure it's done right. Would be a good idea to find a
service manual online that shows the carb, but not essential.

Hank wrote:
-snip-

What I would do, in order.............

Loosen the gas cap to make sure air can get in. No cost
Remove air cleaner and see how it runs. No cost

At this point, I'd dump the gas - remove carb bowl and clean it
[careful not to mess up float] - and refill with fresh gas.
[then back to Hank's list]
Check compression. No cost
Replace spark plug. $2-5
Check fuel supply lines for aging, collapse, cracks and etc. No cost.
After all that, then I would clean the carb. No cost usually unless
something is found to be defective.

I wouldn't waste time cleaning a carb, myself. You can buy a new one
for $40-50, install it in 20 minutes and *know* you've got a good
carb. There are lots of tiny gaskets, rings and passages in a carb
that you can only get to with solvent [if at all]- and you don't know
if you've fixed a carb or made it worse when you rebuild and replace.

Just my opinion- I'm probably batting about 800 lifetime on
rebuilding carbs. but those 3-4 that I wasted hours and dollars on
and *still* had to replace, make the quick change the way I go these
days.

Jim

John Carter wrote:

I have a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.

Where / when did Sears sell this?

Perhaps only in the US?

Do they still sell it?

I'd buy one if they sold it here in Canada.

Is this it?

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/07177055000-1

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
news
Hank wrote:
-snip-

What I would do, in order.............

Loosen the gas cap to make sure air can get in. No cost
Remove air cleaner and see how it runs. No cost

At this point, I'd dump the gas - remove carb bowl and clean it
[careful not to mess up float] - and refill with fresh gas.
[then back to Hank's list]
Check compression. No cost
Replace spark plug. $2-5
Check fuel supply lines for aging, collapse, cracks and etc. No cost.
After all that, then I would clean the carb. No cost usually unless
something is found to be defective.

I wouldn't waste time cleaning a carb, myself. You can buy a new one
for $40-50, install it in 20 minutes and *know* you've got a good
carb. There are lots of tiny gaskets, rings and passages in a carb
that you can only get to with solvent [if at all]- and you don't know
if you've fixed a carb or made it worse when you rebuild and replace.

Just my opinion- I'm probably batting about 800 lifetime on
rebuilding carbs. but those 3-4 that I wasted hours and dollars on
and *still* had to replace, make the quick change the way I go these
days.

Jim

Some of those carbs have a float bowl that is only held on by a single nut
or bolt. Taking it off and looking at what is inside, tossing it, filling
it with gas, and putting it up and down up into the float to clean any
residual crud is worth fifty bucks to me. Takes about two minutes. That's
$1500 an hour.

Steve

"John Carter" wrote in message
...
I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. I use it frequently during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. You can remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke, and
pulled the rope. It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. I started it
again and the same thing happened. The third time, after it started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. My use sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use that as a
que to quit. I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

Invest in a new spark plug--solved my snow blower problem--hard to start and
didn't Idle too good
MLD

In ,
John Carter typed:
I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8
years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. I use it
frequently during the spring and summer for blowing
debris off the lawn. You can remove the bag, and connect
a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it
(fresh gas). pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set
the throttle to choke, and pulled the rope. It started
and I usually wait about 20 seconds and then set the
throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do
leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. I
started it again and the same thing happened. The third
time, after it started and before it quit, I pushed the
primer bulb just as it began to stop, and it began too
run, but then started to stop. Repeated pushing of the
primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer
pushed the primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in
choke position or rabbit position, although it may not
have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5
times over the past two weeks, and it always started and
ran. My use sessions usually take a whole tank of gas -
it just runs out of gas and I use that as a que to quit.
I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and
routine maintenance, so am asking for some direction as
to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

A chunk of debris has loosened itself from some place and is plugghing
anything from a port to hose connection. Disassemble, clean, blow out,
reassemble, & see f that helps. It'll probably fix it.

HTH,

Twayne`

On Nov 7, 10:41*am, "MLD" wrote:


Invest in a new spark plug--solved my snow blower problem--hard to start and
didn't Idle too good
MLD-

In my experience, people underestimate the impotance of a spark plug.
Many think that if it fires, it is good. Not so. By not replacing the
spark plug, you could be chasing the problem for hours, if not days.

While I agree it sounds like a fuel delivery problem, I would still
check what I mentioned first. The reason I mention my way in order is
because the OP stated he didn't know alot about engines and I noted
the easiest and no cost (besides the spark plug) first.

Hank ~~~~ always starts diagnosis with new plug

"Steve B" wrote:


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
news
Hank wrote:
-snip-

What I would do, in order.............

Loosen the gas cap to make sure air can get in. No cost
Remove air cleaner and see how it runs. No cost

At this point, I'd dump the gas - remove carb bowl and clean it
[careful not to mess up float] - and refill with fresh gas.
[then back to Hank's list]

-snip-
I wouldn't waste time cleaning a carb, myself. You can buy a new one
for $40-50, install it in 20 minutes and *know* you've got a good
carb. There are lots of tiny gaskets, rings and passages in a carb
that you can only get to with solvent [if at all]- and you don't know
if you've fixed a carb or made it worse when you rebuild and replace.

Just my opinion- I'm probably batting about 800 lifetime on
rebuilding carbs. but those 3-4 that I wasted hours and dollars on
and *still* had to replace, make the quick change the way I go these
days.

Jim

Some of those carbs have a float bowl that is only held on by a single nut
or bolt. Taking it off and looking at what is inside, tossing it, filling
it with gas, and putting it up and down up into the float to clean any
residual crud is worth fifty bucks to me. Takes about two minutes. That's
$1500 an hour.

We're not disagreeing here. That is exactly how much effort I'd put
into cleaning a carb. If it has to come off the engine- it goes in
the trash.

Jim

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
"Steve B" wrote:


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
news
Hank wrote:
-snip-

What I would do, in order.............

Loosen the gas cap to make sure air can get in. No cost
Remove air cleaner and see how it runs. No cost

At this point, I'd dump the gas - remove carb bowl and clean it
[careful not to mess up float] - and refill with fresh gas.
[then back to Hank's list]

-snip-
I wouldn't waste time cleaning a carb, myself. You can buy a new one
for $40-50, install it in 20 minutes and *know* you've got a good
carb. There are lots of tiny gaskets, rings and passages in a carb
that you can only get to with solvent [if at all]- and you don't know
if you've fixed a carb or made it worse when you rebuild and replace.

Just my opinion- I'm probably batting about 800 lifetime on
rebuilding carbs. but those 3-4 that I wasted hours and dollars on
and *still* had to replace, make the quick change the way I go these
days.

Jim

Some of those carbs have a float bowl that is only held on by a single nut
or bolt. Taking it off and looking at what is inside, tossing it, filling
it with gas, and putting it up and down up into the float to clean any
residual crud is worth fifty bucks to me. Takes about two minutes.
That's
$1500 an hour.

We're not disagreeing here. That is exactly how much effort I'd put
into cleaning a carb. If it has to come off the engine- it goes in
the trash.

Jim

I like fixing things, and see some things as a challenge. A lot of things
can be fixed with just a little time. I have more tools than I need, a
parts washing device, compressed air, lots of stuff, so, it's fun to work
with some things. But, yes, there is a point where I will chuck something
if it starts to cost more than it's worth. But to me, a free attempt is
worth the time invested.

I once bought a brand new lawnmower for $20 at a yard sale. All it took to
get it running was to take off the float bowl, dump that, blow it out, blow
around the floats, dunk the float area a couple of times in the float bowl
full of good gas, empty the old gas, put in new, and it started on first
crank. Probably would have been $40 at a shop.

I sold the mower for $75, net $55. If I had taken it to a shop, I might not
have made a dime.

I love people who throw away good stuff, too, and have been known to make a
quick dodge to scoop up something someone's tossed to the curb. Got two
graphite poles, one with an Ambassadeur 5000 on it for free.
Wife/girlfriend musta been making room for new roomie ................

Steve

John Carter wrote:
I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. I use it frequently during
the spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. You can
remove the bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working
fine this fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke,
and pulled the rope. It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds
and then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do
leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. I started it
again and the same thing happened. The third time, after it started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. My use sessions
usually take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use
that as a que to quit. I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks
normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

There is a bolt on the bottom of the carb bowl, and on that bolt is an
orifice, which is clogged. Undo the bolt and clean out the orifice with a
small copper wire, and reassemble.

Also change out the spark plug as a matter of due course.

Jon

John Carter wrote:

I have a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.

I still want to learn more about this machine.

A lawn vacuum is not a common piece of home-owner equipment.

What was paid for it?

Does sears still sell it?

On Nov 7, 1:25*pm, Home Guy wrote:
John Carter wrote:
I have a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.

I still want to learn more about this machine.

A lawn vacuum is not a common piece of home-owner equipment.

What was paid for it?

Does sears still sell it?

Home guy...you need to get out more!

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?

Bob_Villa wrote:

I have a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8
years old.

I still want to learn more about this machine.

A lawn vacuum is not a common piece of home-owner equipment.

What was paid for it?

Does sears still sell it?

Home guy...you need to get out more!

You need to stop pretending you know the answer by evading the question
with a cute reply!

Steve B wrote:
I love people who throw away good stuff, too, and have been known to
make a quick dodge to scoop up something someone's tossed to the
curb. Got two graphite poles, one with an Ambassadeur 5000 on it for
free. Wife/girlfriend musta been making room for new roomie
................

Probably half of the "toys" I acquire need a bit of repair to be fully
functional, or at least have the risk that they will. I spend a little time
tinkering, and have something useful without any major investment.

On Mon, 7 Nov 2011 04:19:31 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Nov 7, 6:40Â*am, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Nov 6, 11:06Â*pm, John Carter wrote:





I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. Â*I use it frequently during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. Â*You can remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke, and
pulled the rope. Â*It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. Â*I started it
again and the same thing happened. Â*The third time, after it Â*started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. Â*Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. Â*My use sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use that as a
que to quit. Â*I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

Do as the Stor' Bore says...but don't take the bowl off. Â*Just clean
the plug/nut/metering jet (the small hole is clogged).- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I agree it's likely a carb problem. The main clue is that it
will continue to run if you keep pushing the primer button.
Carb problems are common on these. I would get a carb
rebuild kit, which includes new needle valves, gaskets, welch plugs,
etc. They are available for my tecumseh on Ebay for
$10. Better to just take it apart, clean it completely including
the parts you can't get to without taking out the welch plugs
and be sure it's done right. Would be a good idea to find a
service manual online that shows the carb, but not essential.
Pull the main jet/bolt and clean it. It likely has "greenies" in it.

Then get a can of "sea foam" and a can of fresh premium Shell (or
other known hooch-free ) gasoline. Start the engine with the
sea-foamed gas, pressing the primer as required to get it running for
a minute or too, then let it run (if it will) - or let it sit for a
few hours and try again. My experience is this USUALLY fixes them.

"Bob F" wrote

Probably half of the "toys" I acquire need a bit of repair to be fully
functional, or at least have the risk that they will. I spend a little
time tinkering, and have something useful without any major investment.

There's a guy in Las Vegas who scrounges bicycles. Will take ANYTHING. He
then takes them to the prison where prisoners work on them, then he returns
them to the community through various channels and organizations. I called
him one day, and he came and got two, and he had to pile them on top of all
the bikes he had in his long bed truck. I would imagine out of all that old
stuff, there is a "home run" here and there. But a lot of it just gets back
to kids instead of in the landfill. If you go to the indoor landfill dump,
and there's a bike or portion of one sitting there, you CANNOT take it, nor
anything else. A bit senseless, but ................ They do sort stuff
later at the major collection points, and I hope they snag them out of the
piles. They do pull metal and aluminum and glass out, plus God knows what
else. Saw them one day, they had an area taped off with yellow tape.
People in white HazMat suits with badges on the outside, and Metro insignia.

Steve

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

On Nov 7, 4:33*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

*NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I use WD-40 (lube and propane) to help start a small engine. Carb
cleaner and ether...you need to be very careful! (as you say)

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I HAVE seen carb spray used to keep engines running temporarily for short
periods of time. Sometimes, it's is all that's needed to get it running
until it can suck up/pass what's the problem. No longer than ten seconds or
so for carb cleaner. I would not use ether (starting fluid) at all except
for diesel motors, and then, just to get it kicked off, then let it run or
die.

NO LONGER THAN TEN SECONDS IN ANY CASE. Or less.

Steve

Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John
You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I HAVE seen carb spray used to keep engines running temporarily for short
periods of time. Sometimes, it's is all that's needed to get it running
until it can suck up/pass what's the problem. No longer than ten seconds or
so for carb cleaner. I would not use ether (starting fluid) at all except
for diesel motors, and then, just to get it kicked off, then let it run or
die.

NO LONGER THAN TEN SECONDS IN ANY CASE. Or less.

Steve



I used to use carb cleaner on hard to start small engines but found
that on four cycle engines the intake valve would often begin to
stick.... it was loosening the built up gunk of them ... as for
leaves on the lawn. Who cares? The lawnmower will mulch them next
year.

On Nov 8, 2:33*am, "Mr. Austerity" "PrintMo.Money " wrote:
Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John
You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. *It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. *Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I HAVE seen carb spray used to keep engines running temporarily for short
periods of time. *Sometimes, it's is all that's needed to get it running
until it can suck up/pass what's the problem. *No longer than ten seconds or
so for carb cleaner. *I would not use ether (starting fluid) at all except
for diesel motors, and then, just to get it kicked off, then let it run or
die.

NO LONGER THAN TEN SECONDS IN ANY CASE. *Or less.

Steve

* I used to use carb cleaner on hard to start small engines but found
that on four cycle engines the intake valve would often begin to
stick.... * it was loosening the built up gunk of them ... *as for
leaves on the lawn. * Who cares? *The lawnmower will mulch them next
year.-

It will mulch the leaves next year,
after the grass has died from being smothered by
the leaves while it's still growing during the Fall. Unless
you have an insignificant amount of leaves, which folks
who own a walk-behind leaf blower usually do not, then
they need to be removed in the Fall.

My Coleman generator, the 5 HP engine doesn't seem to like
to start. I've found that I can run it by spraying ether on
the paper air filter. After awhile, it runs on the gasoline
from the tank. Best I can figure, I've got a carb diaphragm
that likes to dry out.

As to the OP lawn mower engine, won't help. The primer bulb
doesn't eventually get the mower to run. Clogged gas
metering hole in the carb bowl bolt, most likely.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .


Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a
"last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when
used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore
how to use
it safely.

I HAVE seen carb spray used to keep engines running
temporarily for short
periods of time. Sometimes, it's is all that's needed to
get it running
until it can suck up/pass what's the problem. No longer
than ten seconds or
so for carb cleaner. I would not use ether (starting fluid)
at all except
for diesel motors, and then, just to get it kicked off, then
let it run or
die.

NO LONGER THAN TEN SECONDS IN ANY CASE. Or less.

Steve

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:33:03 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I'll give the link once mo

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

On Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:35:50 -0800, "Steve B" wrote:

I HAVE seen carb spray used to keep engines running temporarily for short
periods of time

Back when I was knee-high to a grasshopper we would pull the spark
plug. Pour in some fuel, replace the plug and fire the engine. Work
backwards from there to the carb.

The OP is AWOL.

My Dad had his generator killed by a "helpful" neighbor.
Neighbor pulled the spark plug out, sprayed ether into the
spark plug hole. The piston siezed up, and the engine never
ran after that.

OTOH, I've started engines with ether sprayed onto the paper
air filter. The vapors get drawn into the cylinder and burn.
The oil stays on the piston wall.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:35:50 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I HAVE seen carb spray used to keep engines running
temporarily for short
periods of time

Back when I was knee-high to a grasshopper we would pull the
spark
plug. Pour in some fuel, replace the plug and fire the
engine. Work
backwards from there to the carb.

The OP is AWOL.

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 17:20:49 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Neighbor pulled the spark plug out, sprayed ether into the
spark plug hole. The piston siezed up, and the engine never
ran after that.

Note I said "fuel".

That is completely true. You did say fuel. I'd have
preferred two cycle gas mix, rather than the gasohol we have
now. Gas mix is much less likely to dry the cylinder walls.

Did you notice? I told a similar story, and I'm the one who
said "spray ether".

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 17:20:49 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Neighbor pulled the spark plug out, sprayed ether into the
spark plug hole. The piston siezed up, and the engine never
ran after that.

Note I said "fuel".

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 13:15:58 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:33:03 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I'll give the link once mo

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57
yes - so what? It is still ether (and Heptane) with an upper cyl lube
added. It is STILL dangerous if mis-used or over-used.
You are free to use it that way on YOUR equipment, but PLEASE do not
advocate it's misuse by others.

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 19:39:53 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 13:15:58 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:33:03 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep the
engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish film.
Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and flush it out
with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you do remove it to
clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I'll give the link once mo

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57
yes - so what? It is still ether (and Heptane) with an upper cyl lube
added. It is STILL dangerous if mis-used or over-used.
You are free to use it that way on YOUR equipment, but PLEASE do not
advocate it's misuse by others.


Clare, calm down. Where did I "advocate it's misuse"?

I suggested a product and advised the OP to "follow directions."

If I implied "misuse", then I apologize.

Steve B wrote:
"Bob F" wrote

Probably half of the "toys" I acquire need a bit of repair to be
fully functional, or at least have the risk that they will. I spend
a little time tinkering, and have something useful without any major
investment.

There's a guy in Las Vegas who scrounges bicycles. Will take
ANYTHING. He then takes them to the prison where prisoners work on
them, then he returns them to the community through various channels
and organizations. I called him one day, and he came and got two,
and he had to pile them on top of all the bikes he had in his long
bed truck. I would imagine out of all that old stuff, there is a
"home run" here and there. But a lot of it just gets back to kids
instead of in the landfill. If you go to the indoor landfill dump,
and there's a bike or portion of one sitting there, you CANNOT take
it, nor anything else. A bit senseless, but ................ They
do sort stuff later at the major collection points, and I hope they
snag them out of the piles. They do pull metal and aluminum and
glass out, plus God knows what else. Saw them one day, they had an
area taped off with yellow tape. People in white HazMat suits with
badges on the outside, and Metro insignia.

There's a small Metal recycling place near me that lets me browse regularly, and
gives or sells things cheaply to me that I want. I have one nice American made
dual suspension mountain bike from there for $10, and I've gotten countless
other goodies over the years, including hand and power tools, a couputer I used
for 2 years, and several heavy duty shelves. I've been known to drop off an
occasional 6 pack of homebrew there.

Bob_Villa wrote:
On Nov 7, 4:33 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to use
it safely.

I use WD-40 (lube and propane) to help start a small engine. Carb
cleaner and ether...you need to be very careful! (as you say)

I use something call "gasoline". I just dribble several drops into the carb.
Put the end of a straw into the gas tank, cover the end with your finger, then
move ot to the carb and release the gas.

wrote:
On Nov 8, 2:33 am, "Mr. Austerity" "PrintMo.Money " wrote:
Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:37:37 -0800, Oren wrote:

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter
wrote:

Thanks for any and all replies.

John
You have very good replies here.

Personally, I'd get this product and follow directions.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Remove the air filter and spray in the carb throat. You can keep
the engine running. It may well wash out small debris / varnish
film. Inside the throat, look for small passage (venturi?) and
flush it out with the spray. Also use under the fuel bowl if you
do remove it to clean the jet, etc.

Got a fuel filter somewhere? Clogged?
NO!!!!!!!!!!
Starting fluid is for starting ONLY - and then only as a "last
resort". It is VERY hard on engines - particularly when used by
someone who does not know how bad it can be, and therefore how to
use it safely.

I HAVE seen carb spray used to keep engines running temporarily for
short periods of time. Sometimes, it's is all that's needed to get
it running until it can suck up/pass what's the problem. No longer
than ten seconds or so for carb cleaner. I would not use ether
(starting fluid) at all except for diesel motors, and then, just to
get it kicked off, then let it run or die.

NO LONGER THAN TEN SECONDS IN ANY CASE. Or less.

Steve

I used to use carb cleaner on hard to start small engines but found
that on four cycle engines the intake valve would often begin to
stick.... it was loosening the built up gunk of them ... as for
leaves on the lawn. Who cares? The lawnmower will mulch them next
year.-

It will mulch the leaves next year,
after the grass has died from being smothered by
the leaves while it's still growing during the Fall. Unless
you have an insignificant amount of leaves, which folks
who own a walk-behind leaf blower usually do not, then
they need to be removed in the Fall.

Exactly my thought.

I'm guessing the last sentence affects the pricing.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob F"
wrote in message ...

There's a small Metal recycling place near me that lets me
browse regularly, and
gives or sells things cheaply to me that I want. I have one
nice American made
dual suspension mountain bike from there for $10, and I've
gotten countless
other goodies over the years, including hand and power
tools, a couputer I used
for 2 years, and several heavy duty shelves. I've been known
to drop off an
occasional 6 pack of homebrew there.

"Bob F" wrote

There's a small Metal recycling place near me that lets me browse
regularly, and gives or sells things cheaply to me that I want. I have one
nice American made dual suspension mountain bike from there for $10, and
I've gotten countless other goodies over the years, including hand and
power tools, a couputer I used for 2 years, and several heavy duty
shelves. I've been known to drop off an occasional 6 pack of homebrew
there.

Among being swamped by my own projects, honeydos, and just regular ranch
maintenance, I am getting ready to start brewing. It is just incredible
what one person has to keep up with these days work, making money,
politics, ebay, facebook, the cost of oil, personal items like renewing
driver's license, et al.

How did we all live back when life was actually more simple? Was the
quality of life less? Were we depri(a)ved by not being able to Google a
rule on Mexican Train Dominoes instantly by our iphones?

I think I could go back to that simpler time. Or even move to a third world
country where the subject du jour is the price of fresh shrimp and papayas.

Steve

On 7 Nov 2011 05:06:55 GMT, John Carter wrote:

I ahve a Sears lawn Vacuum non-self propelled - about 8 years old.
It is a Tecumseh 4.5 HP 4 cycle engine. I use it frequently during the
spring and summer for blowing debris off the lawn. You can remove the
bag, and connect a chute for blowing. It has been working fine this
fall.

This afternoon, I got it out of the arage, fueled it (fresh gas).
pushed the primer 5-7 times (as always), set the throttle to choke, and
pulled the rope. It started and I usually wait about 20 seconds and
then set the throttle to the rabbit (operate position), then do leaves.

Today. before the wait period was up, the engine quit. I started it
again and the same thing happened. The third time, after it started
and before it quit, I pushed the primer bulb just as it began to stop,
and it began too run, but then started to stop. Repeated pushing of
the primer bulb would keep it going, but once I no longer pushed the
primer bulb, it would stop. This happened in choke position or rabbit
position, although it may not have had a chance to warm up.

I don't think it's a fuel problem, as I have used it 5 times over the
past two weeks, and it always started and ran. My use sessions usually
take a whole tank of gas - it just runs out of gas and I use that as a
que to quit. I looked at the plug and it's dry and looks normal.

I'm not a small engine expert - Ionly do oil changes, and routine
maintenance, so am asking for some direction as to what next to try.

Thanks for any and all replies.

John

I didn't see this in sampling above responses: a lot of yard equipment
has a 'spark suppressor' screen on the exhaust. It can get plugged with
carbon. I've seen it cause symptoms like you're seeing. Times I've
dealt with it, it's been under the muffler.

G