I recently remodeled a room that included hanging drywall. I used
lightweight joint compound and did the normal things such as taping,
applying compound, and sanding. I put on two coats of quality paint.
The results looked good when it was dry. However when seen with side
light you can see the textural differences in the joints between the
sanded joint compound and the drywall. The sanded compound looked
smooth while the drywall field looked rougher.

Although it is really no more than an annoyance how do you fix this?
Is there a coating like Kilz that can blend the two different
textures? What about a skim coat? Should I have used the lightweight
joint compound originally - is the sanded surface of the lightweight
too fine?

You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet, not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work), the painting results will be uniform.
Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

Sonny

On Aug 13, 10:01*am, Sonny wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. *The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. *It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet, not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. *By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work),

Doesn't sound like minimum work to me.



the painting results will be uniform.

I've seen loads of drywall jobs where the result was uniform
and there was no skim coat, just conventional taping.


Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. *Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

Sonny

I don't see how in the world skim coating the entire wall is easier
and cheaper than a second coat of primer.

I don't know exactly what went wrong in this case. One thought is
that maybe the taped areas were sanded TOO smooth. I typically
use a fine drywall screen as the last step and the joints are
unnoticeable.

In article , Sonny wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet,

Recommended by whom? You?

not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work),

"Minimum extra work"? You've got to be kidding. Clearly, you've never actually
done that.

the painting results will be uniform.
Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

What planet do you live on, where applying drywall compound is easier than
applying paint?

On 8/13/2011 10:24 AM, wrote:


Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

Sonny

I don't see how in the world skim coating the entire wall is easier
and cheaper than a second coat of primer.


And sometimes it just pays to use good quality paint. We redid a number
of rooms and had someone hang the drywall. They did not skim coat the
entire sheet but did do a really nice job feathering the compound.

We primed (one coat) with a good quality Sherwin Williams PVA primer. A
number of people saw the primer only version and remarked "what a nice
paint job".



I don't know exactly what went wrong in this case. One thought is
that maybe the taped areas were sanded TOO smooth. I typically
use a fine drywall screen as the last step and the joints are
unnoticeable.

In article , Edge wrote:
I recently remodeled a room that included hanging drywall. I used
lightweight joint compound and did the normal things such as taping,
applying compound, and sanding. I put on two coats of quality paint.
The results looked good when it was dry. However when seen with side
light you can see the textural differences in the joints between the
sanded joint compound and the drywall. The sanded compound looked
smooth while the drywall field looked rougher.

Although it is really no more than an annoyance how do you fix this?
Is there a coating like Kilz that can blend the two different
textures? What about a skim coat? Should I have used the lightweight
joint compound originally - is the sanded surface of the lightweight
too fine?

Perhaps you sanded the joint compound too smooth -- but I'm betting that the
culprit is a *very* short nap on the roller cover you used to paint the wall,
probably 1/4" or 3/16". When the roller nap is that short, any small
differences in surface texture will show through several coats of paint. Try
repainting one wall using a roller cover with a 3/8" or 1/2" nap and see if
that helps; if it does, do the rest of the room.

On Aug 13, 10:43*am, (Doug Miller)
wrote:
In article , Edge wrote:

I recently remodeled a room that included hanging drywall. I used
lightweight joint compound and did the normal things such as taping,
applying compound, and sanding. I put on two coats of quality paint.
The results looked good when it was dry. However when seen with side
light you can see the textural differences in the joints between the
sanded joint compound and the drywall. The sanded compound looked
smooth while the drywall field looked rougher.

Although it is really no more than an annoyance how do you fix this?
Is there a coating like Kilz that can blend the two different
textures? What about a skim coat? Should I have used the lightweight
joint compound originally - is the sanded surface of the lightweight
too fine?

Perhaps you sanded the joint compound too smooth -- but I'm betting that the
culprit is a *very* short nap on the roller cover you used to paint the wall,
probably 1/4" or 3/16". When the roller nap is that short, any small
differences in surface texture will show through several coats of paint. Try
repainting one wall using a roller cover with a 3/8" or 1/2" nap and see if
that helps; if it does, do the rest of the room.



Another factor is the type of paint. Flat hides best. As you move up
in
sheen to satin, eggshell, semigloss, etc, the more it tends to show
any
imperfections.

In article , " wrote:
On Aug 13, 10:43=A0am, (Doug Miller)
wrote:
In article =
..com, Edge wrote:

I recently remodeled a room that included hanging drywall. I used
lightweight joint compound and did the normal things such as taping,
applying compound, and sanding. I put on two coats of quality paint.
The results looked good when it was dry. However when seen with side
light you can see the textural differences in the joints between the
sanded joint compound and the drywall. The sanded compound looked
smooth while the drywall field looked rougher.

Although it is really no more than an annoyance how do you fix this?
Is there a coating like Kilz that can blend the two different
textures? What about a skim coat? Should I have used the lightweight
joint compound originally - is the sanded surface of the lightweight
too fine?

Perhaps you sanded the joint compound too smooth -- but I'm betting that the
culprit is a *very* short nap on the roller cover you used to paint the wall,
probably 1/4" or 3/16". When the roller nap is that short, any small
differences in surface texture will show through several coats of paint. Try
repainting one wall using a roller cover with a 3/8" or 1/2" nap and see if
that helps; if it does, do the rest of the room.

Another factor is the type of paint. Flat hides best. As you move up in
sheen to satin, eggshell, semigloss, etc, the more it tends to show any
imperfections.

Good point.

"Minimum extra work"? You've got to be kidding. Clearly, you've never
actually
done that.


I do it all the time. No harder than rolling on a paint layer.

On 8/13/2011 9:11 AM, Edge wrote:
I recently remodeled a room that included hanging drywall. I used
lightweight joint compound and did the normal things such as taping,
applying compound, and sanding. I put on two coats of quality paint.
The results looked good when it was dry. However when seen with side
light you can see the textural differences in the joints between the
sanded joint compound and the drywall. The sanded compound looked
smooth while the drywall field looked rougher.

Although it is really no more than an annoyance how do you fix this?
Is there a coating like Kilz that can blend the two different
textures? What about a skim coat? Should I have used the lightweight
joint compound originally - is the sanded surface of the lightweight
too fine?


I tend to "over roll" the paint which gives the whole thing a slightly
textured surface and hides things like that. Also use a longer nap
roller to add to the texture.

GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article , Sonny wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet,

Recommended by whom? You?

not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work),

"Minimum extra work"? You've got to be kidding. Clearly, you've never actually
done that.

the painting results will be uniform.
Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

What planet do you live on, where applying drywall compound is easier than
applying paint?

I'm on the same planet. Once I get the wall where I want it, the
last coat gets thinned and applied [nearly squeegeed] with a 12"
knife. It takes me [who only does drywall every few years] less time
to apply than rolling primer, and cleanup is counted as zero because I
already had those tools out. [I still prime before painting-- but I
like the finish doing the whole wall gives me]

I learned 30 years ago it from a guy who used a 18-20" knife to do it.
He'd go into a room in the morning, and when he emerged for lunch
you'd think it had been primed. I'm happy to finish a room in
2 weeks.

Jim

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article
, Sonny
wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet,

Recommended by whom? You?

not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work),

"Minimum extra work"? You've got to be kidding. Clearly, you've never
actually
done that.

the painting results will be uniform.
Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

What planet do you live on, where applying drywall compound is easier than
applying paint?

It's normal practice in the UK too. The joints here are covered with a loose
weave tape called scrim.
Just taping and painting is reserved for poor class work, offices and the
like.

On Aug 13, 12:19*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:





In article , Sonny wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. *The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. *It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet,

Recommended by whom? You?

not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. *By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work),

"Minimum extra work"? You've got to be kidding. Clearly, you've never actually
done that.

the painting results will be uniform.
Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. *Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

What planet do you live on, where applying drywall compound is easier than
applying paint?

I'm on the same planet. * *Once I get the wall where I want it, the
last coat gets thinned and applied [nearly squeegeed] with a 12"
knife. * It takes me [who only does drywall every few years] less time
to apply than rolling primer, and cleanup is counted as zero because I
already had those tools out. * [I still prime before painting-- but I
like the finish doing the whole wall gives me]

Sorry don't buy that for a minute. Been there, done that.
And I know how long it takes to do a skim coat vs just rolling
paint. The skim coating takes way longer. If it were as
you claim, it would be standard practice to skim coat
all drywall, but it's not. Not only does it take a hell of a lot
longer to put the drywall compound on and even it out,
but you also have to sand it, which is a PIA and more
labor costs.

Note I'm not saying that skim coat will not give a better
apperance. It will if done right. But it's always a substantial
additional cost and IMO, the difference in appearance isn't
worth it. If it was necessary and cost effective, you'd see
all drywall done that way. In reality only a small percentage
is.

On Aug 13, 12:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Aug 13, 12:19*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:





GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article , Sonny wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. *The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. *It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet,

Recommended by whom? You?

not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. *By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work),

"Minimum extra work"? You've got to be kidding. Clearly, you've never actually
done that.

the painting results will be uniform.
Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. *Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

What planet do you live on, where applying drywall compound is easier than
applying paint?

I'm on the same planet. * *Once I get the wall where I want it, the
last coat gets thinned and applied [nearly squeegeed] with a 12"
knife. * It takes me [who only does drywall every few years] less time
to apply than rolling primer, and cleanup is counted as zero because I
already had those tools out. * [I still prime before painting-- but I
like the finish doing the whole wall gives me]

Sorry don't buy that for a minute. *Been there, done that.
And I know how long it takes to do a skim coat vs just rolling
paint. * The skim coating takes way longer. *If it were as
you claim, it would be standard practice to skim coat
all drywall, but it's not. *Not only does it take a hell of a lot
longer to put the drywall compound on and even it out,
but you also have to sand it, which is a PIA and more
labor costs.

Note I'm not saying that skim coat will not give a better
apperance. *It will if done right. *But it's always a substantial
*additional cost and IMO, the difference in appearance isn't
*worth it. *If it was necessary and cost effective, you'd see
all drywall done that way. *In reality only a small percentage
is.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No one has mentioned the use of special drywall mud that is extra
easily sanded. I think that it is more porous and hence harder to
hide than regular drywall mud. At this point, only more paint is
likely to help. Remudding is too drastic.

On Sat, 13 Aug 2011 12:19:06 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article , Sonny wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet,

Recommended by whom? You?

not just the taped
edges, so that the whole surface, to be painted, is uniform in/of
surface material. By applying compound over the whole of the drywall
(minimum extra work),

"Minimum extra work"? You've got to be kidding. Clearly, you've never actually
done that.

the painting results will be uniform.
Otherwise, to avoid the difference/results you describe, you would
need to apply at least 2 coats of primer. Applying the extra skin of
drywall compound is easier and cheaper, than applying the extra
primer.

What planet do you live on, where applying drywall compound is easier than
applying paint?

I'm on the same planet. Once I get the wall where I want it, the
last coat gets thinned and applied [nearly squeegeed] with a 12"
knife. It takes me [who only does drywall every few years] less time
to apply than rolling primer, and cleanup is counted as zero because I
already had those tools out. [I still prime before painting-- but I
like the finish doing the whole wall gives me]

I learned 30 years ago it from a guy who used a 18-20" knife to do it.
He'd go into a room in the morning, and when he emerged for lunch
you'd think it had been primed. I'm happy to finish a room in
2 weeks.


I've done similar on whole walls to make old walls with bad paint jobs
look flat-new.
First spackle and sand nail-holes and dings.
Then knife the compound firmly all over the wall.
Takes no skill at all.
Looks mottled.
A fast go-over with a mesh sander hardly raises any dust.
There's "skim coating" and there's "skim coating."
I'd guess that on new drywall you're basically filling the pores.
But for new drywall if the OP primes and uses a roller with decent nap
he won't see well-done joints.

--Vic

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , Sonny wrote:
You painted over joint compound and you painted over the paper of/on
the drywall, i.e., 2 different surfaces, hence the 2 different texture
results. The paper surface raised, a tad, when it was wet by the
paint, causing the difference in appearance/result. It is recommended
you compound over the whole of the drywall sheet,

Recommended by whom? You?


All real pros and the drywall mfrs - it's called "Level Five" finishing
(google it).

Edge wrote:

I recently remodeled a room that included hanging drywall. I used
lightweight joint compound and did the normal things such as taping,
applying compound, and sanding. I put on two coats of quality paint.
The results looked good when it was dry. However when seen with side
light you can see the textural differences in the joints between the
sanded joint compound and the drywall. The sanded compound looked
smooth while the drywall field looked rougher.

Although it is really no more than an annoyance how do you fix this?
Is there a coating like Kilz that can blend the two different
textures? What about a skim coat? Should I have used the lightweight
joint compound originally - is the sanded surface of the lightweight
too fine?

You need a drywall primer that specifically says it "equalizes porosity"
- otherwise you have to skim coat everything.

Sorry don't buy that for a minute. Been there, done that.
And I know how long it takes to do a skim coat vs just rolling
paint. The skim coating takes way longer. If it were as
you claim, it would be standard practice to skim coat
all drywall, but it's not. Not only does it take a hell of a lot
longer to put the drywall compound on and even it out,
but you also have to sand it, which is a PIA and more
labor costs.

I only sand lightly to knock off bumps which is not a PIA. I thin the
compound to a light cream consistancy and roll it on with a paint roller.
Then scrape it back off with a wide trowel. Why not spend a few hours
helping someone and learn how?

On 8/13/2011 8:11 AM, Edge wrote:
I recently remodeled a room that included hanging drywall. I used
lightweight joint compound and did the normal things such as taping,
applying compound, and sanding. I put on two coats of quality paint.
The results looked good when it was dry. However when seen with side
light you can see the textural differences in the joints between the
sanded joint compound and the drywall. The sanded compound looked
smooth while the drywall field looked rougher.

Although it is really no more than an annoyance how do you fix this?
Is there a coating like Kilz that can blend the two different
textures? What about a skim coat? Should I have used the lightweight
joint compound originally - is the sanded surface of the lightweight
too fine?


DRYWALL primer would have probably prevented this. Another coat of
paint probably will cover it up.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Aug 14, 11:50*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 8/13/2011 8:11 AM, Edge wrote:


DRYWALL primer would have probably prevented this. *Another coat of
paint probably will cover it up.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Thanks guys for the sugguestions. I realize now that I should have
used a drywall primer on the new drywall to even out the porosity and
textural difference between the paper and the drywall compound. Now
that I have two coats of paint on, is it too late to apply a coat of
drywall primer and another coat of paint.? Or is it best to apply a
skim coat? (I did see a Youtube video on Level 5 finishing that was
very interesting.) I have a cathedral ceiling where it is most
obviously showing the seams under certain lighting conditions. I don't
think another coat of paint will cover it up.

In article , Edge wrote:
On Aug 14, 11:50=A0pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 8/13/2011 8:11 AM, Edge wrote:


DRYWALL primer would have probably prevented this. Another coat of
paint probably will cover it up.


Thanks guys for the sugguestions. I realize now that I should have
used a drywall primer on the new drywall to even out the porosity and
textural difference between the paper and the drywall compound.

Yes, you should have, but that's water under the bridge.

Now
that I have two coats of paint on, is it too late to apply a coat of
drywall primer

Yes, it is. Drywall primer at this stage is pretty well pointless. It's
intended for application on bare drywall, to provide a substrate for the
finish paint.

and another coat of paint.?

No, it's not too late for that. Just make sure you don't use a short-nap
roller cover this time...

Or is it best to apply a
skim coat?

Not any more -- unless you used flat paint, it isn't going to adhere very
well. And unless you're *really* good at applying drywall mud, it's going to
look a lot worse than it does now.

(I did see a Youtube video on Level 5 finishing that was
very interesting.) I have a cathedral ceiling where it is most
obviously showing the seams under certain lighting conditions. I don't
think another coat of paint will cover it up.

I disagree. How long was the nap on the roller cover you used originally?
Probably 1/4" or 3/16", right? Try another coat, using a roller cover with a
3/8" or 1/2" nap instead. That will leave enough texture in the painted
surface that it will probably hide the variations.

On Aug 16, 10:18*am, (Doug Miller)
wrote:
In article , Edge wrote:

On Aug 14, 11:50=A0pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 8/13/2011 8:11 AM, Edge wrote:

DRYWALL primer would have probably prevented this. Another coat of
paint probably will cover it up.

Thanks guys for the sugguestions. I realize now that I should have
used a drywall primer on the new drywall to even out the porosity and
textural difference between the paper and the drywall compound.

Yes, you should have, but that's water under the bridge.

Now
that I have two coats of paint on, is it too late to apply a coat of
drywall primer

Yes, it is. Drywall primer at this stage is pretty well pointless. It's
intended for application on bare drywall, to provide a substrate for the
finish paint.

and another coat of paint.?

No, it's not too late for that. Just make sure you don't use a short-nap
roller cover this time...

Or is it best to apply a
skim coat?

Not any more -- unless you used flat paint, it isn't going to adhere very
well. And unless you're *really* good at applying drywall mud, it's going to
look a lot worse than it does now.

(I did see a Youtube video on Level 5 finishing that was
very interesting.) *I have a cathedral ceiling where it is most
obviously showing the seams under certain lighting conditions. I don't
think another coat of paint will cover it up.

I disagree. How long was the nap on the roller cover you used originally?
Probably 1/4" or 3/16", right? Try another coat, using a roller cover with a
3/8" or 1/2" nap instead. That will leave enough texture in the painted
surface that it will probably hide the variations.

With joints that are so noticeable, I think it's possible he has more
than just a sanding texture and primer issue, like maybe the
joints are not flat with the drywall.

If he wants to experiment, I see no harm in just applying another
coat or two to just the area around one of the jointswith a 3/8 nap
roller as you suggested. Featering the paint out as he moves
away. I think there are 3 possibilities of what will happen:

A - It fixes it and it blends in with the rest of the ceiling

B - It fixes the joint issue, but now the newly painted area
of about a foot or so does not blend in well enough with
the rest of the ceiling, in which case he can just paint
the whole ceiling.

C - It doesn't fix it at all, in which case I'd say there is
something'
wrong with the joints beyond the painting.

If it comes to skim coating the entire ceiling, I'd just bite
the bullet and call in a pro. Won't cost all that much and
I think this is one job where years of experience pay off.

In article , " wrote:
On Aug 16, 10:18=A0am, (Doug Miller)
wrote:
In article =
..com, Edge wrote:

On Aug 14, 11:50=3DA0pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 8/13/2011 8:11 AM, Edge wrote:

DRYWALL primer would have probably prevented this. Another coat of
paint probably will cover it up.

Thanks guys for the sugguestions. I realize now that I should have
used a drywall primer on the new drywall to even out the porosity and
textural difference between the paper and the drywall compound.

Yes, you should have, but that's water under the bridge.

Now
that I have two coats of paint on, is it too late to apply a coat of
drywall primer

Yes, it is. Drywall primer at this stage is pretty well pointless. It's
intended for application on bare drywall, to provide a substrate for the
finish paint.

and another coat of paint.?

No, it's not too late for that. Just make sure you don't use a short-nap
roller cover this time...

Or is it best to apply a
skim coat?

Not any more -- unless you used flat paint, it isn't going to adhere very
well. And unless you're *really* good at applying drywall mud, it's going to
look a lot worse than it does now.

(I did see a Youtube video on Level 5 finishing that was
very interesting.) =A0I have a cathedral ceiling where it is most
obviously showing the seams under certain lighting conditions. I don't
think another coat of paint will cover it up.

I disagree. How long was the nap on the roller cover you used originally?
Probably 1/4" or 3/16", right? Try another coat, using a roller cover with a
3/8" or 1/2" nap instead. That will leave enough texture in the painted
surface that it will probably hide the variations.

With joints that are so noticeable, I think it's possible he has more
than just a sanding texture and primer issue, like maybe the
joints are not flat with the drywall.

Perhaps -- but if that were the case, he'd be seeing some shadows, too, which
he hasn't reported.

If he wants to experiment, I see no harm in just applying another
coat or two to just the area around one of the jointswith a 3/8 nap
roller as you suggested. Featering the paint out as he moves
away. I think there are 3 possibilities of what will happen:

A - It fixes it and it blends in with the rest of the ceiling

B - It fixes the joint issue, but now the newly painted area
of about a foot or so does not blend in well enough with
the rest of the ceiling, in which case he can just paint
the whole ceiling.

C - It doesn't fix it at all, in which case I'd say there is
something'
wrong with the joints beyond the painting.

If it comes to skim coating the entire ceiling, I'd just bite
the bullet and call in a pro. Won't cost all that much and
I think this is one job where years of experience pay off.

I agree down the line.