On Mar 22, 7:06*pm, Willie The Wimp
wrote:
All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to scrape
and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I served 'em lunch
and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even get my
hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating saw,
neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

Any ideas?

Snap a chalk line and have at it with a circular saw. Go slowly and
don't use a blade with too many teeth.

R

All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to scrape
and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I served 'em lunch
and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even get my
hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating saw,
neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

Any ideas?

TIA,
Willie

On 3/22/2011 3:06 PM Willie The Wimp spake thus:

All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to scrape
and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I served 'em lunch
and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even get my
hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating saw,
neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

Any ideas?

I was going to suggest the roofer's knife until I read that last sentence.

How about buying a few boxes of utility knife blades and using that?
Pain in the ass and will dull the blades in no time flat, but should work.


--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

Willie The Wimp wrote:
All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to
scrape and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I
served 'em lunch and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and
stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even
get my hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating
saw, neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat
stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

I'd try sliding a chunk of 1/4" plywood under the shingles, and use a utility
knife. Replace blades frequently.

On 3/22/2011 7:06 PM, Willie The Wimp wrote:

All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to scrape
and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I served 'em lunch
and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even get my
hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating saw,
neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

They use a roofing blade for a utility knife. It has a hook on it and
you pull, not press. Widely available. For us, the circular saw sounds
like a better idea.

Jeff


Any ideas?

TIA,
Willie

I vote the circular saw option, with an old, no-good blade, if you
have one. If your circular saw is not cheap and you hate to use it
for that job, go to the pawn shop and get a cheapie.

On Mar 22, 6:23*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 22, 7:06*pm, Willie The Wimp
wrote:

All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to scrape
and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I served 'em lunch
and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even get my
hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating saw,
neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

Any ideas?

Snap a chalk line and have at it with a circular saw. *Go slowly and
don't use a blade with too many teeth.

R

In the absence of a hawk-bill, the circular saw would do it. Set the
depth to slightly less than the piece of plywood underneath,
protecting
the drip-edge.

On Mar 22, 9:19*pm, Michael B wrote:
On Mar 22, 6:23*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 22, 7:06*pm, Willie The Wimp wrote:

All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to scrape
and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I served 'em lunch
and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even get my
hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating saw,
neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

Any ideas?

Snap a chalk line and have at it with a circular saw. *Go slowly and
don't use a blade with too many teeth.


In the absence of a hawk-bill, the circular saw would do it. Set the
depth to slightly less than the piece of plywood underneath,
protecting the drip-edge.

What plywood and what drip edge? The roof shingles should overhang
the drip edge by an absolute minimum of 1/2", 3/4" preferred. I
understand the concern about not cutting into anything else but
shingles, but plywood (sheathing) and drip edge are not in harm's
way. If you're talking about using a piece of plywood underneath the
shingles to protect something, there's nothing to protect - they're
supposed to be hanging in free air. Unless the shingles are resting
on the gutter nails/screws, or the gutters are hung by straps, the
circular saw can cut through both layers of shingles in one pass,
except right into a valley. The valley will require some hand cutting
with a hook blade utility knife. A hawkbill knife is not nearly as
good as a hook blade utility knife for cutting in place roof
shingles. A hawkbill is fine for scoring a shingle while it's loose.

R

On 3/22/2011 5:01 PM Jeff Thies spake thus:

On 3/22/2011 7:06 PM, Willie The Wimp wrote:

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a
reciprocating saw, neither were practical. The shingles look solid
but are somewhat stiff. I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

They use a roofing blade for a utility knife. It has a hook on it and
you pull, not press. Widely available. For us, the circular saw sounds
like a better idea.

I thought that's what he meant by "hawk-bill knife". Not familiar with
that term, though. Izzat what roofers call that little blade on the back
of their roofing hatchets?

By the way, I've got one of those, and used it the last time I did a
roofing job (very small one). Love those pull-cut blades.


--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 18:05:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 3/22/2011 5:01 PM Jeff Thies spake thus:

On 3/22/2011 7:06 PM, Willie The Wimp wrote:

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a
reciprocating saw, neither were practical. The shingles look solid
but are somewhat stiff. I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

They use a roofing blade for a utility knife. It has a hook on it and
you pull, not press. Widely available. For us, the circular saw sounds
like a better idea.

I thought that's what he meant by "hawk-bill knife". Not familiar with
that term, though. Izzat what roofers call that little blade on the back
of their roofing hatchets?

By the way, I've got one of those, and used it the last time I did a
roofing job (very small one). Love those pull-cut blades.

I would say a hawk-bill knife is a laminate or carpet blade. I am guessing
this is a standard asphalt shingle. A hook blade cutting from underneath
would be my suggestion. Why the overhang? The shingles should only be to
the edge of the drip edge. Or did they forget to install that too?

On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 21:56:04 -0500, Michael Dobony wrote:

I would say a hawk-bill knife is a laminate or carpet blade.

I think they used to call 'em linoleum knives.

I am guessing
this is a standard asphalt shingle.

Correct.

A hook blade cutting from underneath
would be my suggestion.

No room. I'd tear my hands to shreds.

Why the overhang? The shingles should only be to
the edge of the drip edge. Or did they forget to install that too?

Drip edge was in place.

Was in the OP:

I served 'em lunch and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles
and stole my hammer.

They ripped me off. Avoid 'em if ya can, but if ya gotta deal with loose
roofers, watch 'em like a hawk.

I guess it's the circ. saw. Gonna be a bitch ...

Thanks to all.

Ten more years & you 'll need to replace those shingles !! You waited 15
why worry now?????????????
Jr


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage

On 3/22/2011 10:05 PM, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 3/22/2011 5:01 PM Jeff Thies spake thus:

On 3/22/2011 7:06 PM, Willie The Wimp wrote:

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a
reciprocating saw, neither were practical. The shingles look solid
but are somewhat stiff. I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

They use a roofing blade for a utility knife. It has a hook on it and
you pull, not press. Widely available. For us, the circular saw sounds
like a better idea.

I thought that's what he meant by "hawk-bill knife". Not familiar with
that term, though.

I'm not either. What I meant was these:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Which fit any utility knife. That is what the roofers I know use.

Jeff


Izzat what roofers call that little blade on the back
of their roofing hatchets?

By the way, I've got one of those, and used it the last time I did a
roofing job (very small one). Love those pull-cut blades.

On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 22:33:43 -0600, Willie The Wimp wrote:

On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 21:56:04 -0500, Michael Dobony wrote:

I would say a hawk-bill knife is a laminate or carpet blade.

I think they used to call 'em linoleum knives.

I am guessing
this is a standard asphalt shingle.

Correct.

A hook blade cutting from underneath
would be my suggestion.

No room. I'd tear my hands to shreds.

Why the overhang? The shingles should only be to
the edge of the drip edge. Or did they forget to install that too?

Drip edge was in place.

Was in the OP:

I served 'em lunch and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles
and stole my hammer.

They ripped me off. Avoid 'em if ya can, but if ya gotta deal with loose
roofers, watch 'em like a hawk.

I guess it's the circ. saw. Gonna be a bitch ...

Thanks to all.

Try a composite blade for steel. The lack of teeth should help avoid
ripping the shingles to shreads.

On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 06:00:09 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 3/22/2011 10:05 PM, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 3/22/2011 5:01 PM Jeff Thies spake thus:

On 3/22/2011 7:06 PM, Willie The Wimp wrote:

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a
reciprocating saw, neither were practical. The shingles look solid
but are somewhat stiff. I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

They use a roofing blade for a utility knife. It has a hook on it and
you pull, not press. Widely available. For us, the circular saw sounds
like a better idea.

I thought that's what he meant by "hawk-bill knife". Not familiar with
that term, though.

I'm not either. What I meant was these:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Which fit any utility knife. That is what the roofers I know use.

Jeff


Izzat what roofers call that little blade on the back
of their roofing hatchets?

By the way, I've got one of those, and used it the last time I did a
roofing job (very small one). Love those pull-cut blades.



Learn to follow threads. I was not responding to your post, but David's.

On Mar 23, 10:41*am, Michael Dobony wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 22:33:43 -0600, Willie The Wimp wrote:

I guess it's the circ. saw. Gonna be a bitch ...

Don't dread things that don't require it. It's really not a big
deal. The main issue is safety, so ladders with ladder jacks and
planks, or something similar, is the way to go. The saw blade will
only be exposed for roughly a 3/4" depth of cut, which minimizes a lot
of the more grievous danger. Just go at a comfortable rate and let
the saw do the work. Don't try to push it to make it go faster.
That's how injuries and damage occur.

Try a composite blade for steel. The lack of teeth should help avoid
ripping the shingles to shreads.

Have you ever used one of those blades to cut roof shingles with a
circular saw? I'm guessing you haven't. Without teeth, same as with
too many teeth, the shingles melt and bind the blade. The teeth don't
rip shingles - moving the saw too quickly rips shingles. The OP will
be trying to follow a chalk line from an awkward position - he
certainly won't be moving the saw quickly.

R

On Mar 22, 6:06*pm, Willie The Wimp
wrote:
All right. Now for the ugly stuff.

About 15 years ago, in a weak moment, I hired some loose roofers to scrape
and shingle my 2-car detached garage in th US midwest. I served 'em lunch
and paid cash. They failed to trim the shingles and stole my hammer.

Now the shingles overhang up-to-90% of the open gutter. Can't even get my
hands in there to clean out the gutter sediment, etc.

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a reciprocating saw,
neither were practical. The shingles look solid but are somewhat stiff.
I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

Any ideas?

TIA,
Willie

Here's an 'outside the box' technique that might work (haven't tried
it yet but maybe later):
Put a sturdy support under the shingle and press hard with a pizza
wheel as follow your chalk line. The thin circular blade should be
fairly self cleaning and if you warm the shingles well with a heat gun
the job ought to go fairly quickly. Amazon has pizza wheels if you
don't know what they look like. This would have the advantage of
avoiding cold splintering of the old shingles with toothed saw or
similar.
If you value your happy home don't try one from SWMBO's kitchen tool
set.

Joe

On 3/23/2011 10:43 AM, Michael Dobony wrote:
On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 06:00:09 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 3/22/2011 10:05 PM, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 3/22/2011 5:01 PM Jeff Thies spake thus:

On 3/22/2011 7:06 PM, Willie The Wimp wrote:

How might I trim the shingles? I tried tin-snips and a
reciprocating saw, neither were practical. The shingles look solid
but are somewhat stiff. I doubt a hawk-bill knife would work.

They use a roofing blade for a utility knife. It has a hook on it and
you pull, not press. Widely available. For us, the circular saw sounds
like a better idea.

I thought that's what he meant by "hawk-bill knife". Not familiar with
that term, though.

I'm not either. What I meant was these:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Which fit any utility knife. That is what the roofers I know use.

Jeff


Izzat what roofers call that little blade on the back
of their roofing hatchets?

By the way, I've got one of those, and used it the last time I did a
roofing job (very small one). Love those pull-cut blades.



Learn to follow threads. I was not responding to your post, but David's.


Learn to get over it.

Jeff

On 2011-03-24, Willie The Wimp wrote:

I popped a fine-tooth 'cip saw blade in and tested. Jammed the teeth
with asphalt muy pronto.

Whatta larf. An old shingle talking like he can get 15 yr-old trim.

nb

On Mar 24, 12:49*am, Willie The Wimp
wrote:

Would you attempt to do the deed on a hot, sunny day with shingles
softened, or on a normal/chilly day?

You don't want cold/freezing as the shingles are more likely to crack
while you're mucking about with them, and you don't want hot/direct
sun as the shingles might get scuffed up more with the circular saw
base running over them - plus it's no fun working on a roof when the
sweat is running into your eyes. So mid-range temps - 50s, 60s, 70s.

R

On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 08:54:44 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote:

On Mar 23, 10:41*am, Michael Dobony wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 22:33:43 -0600, Willie The Wimp wrote:

I guess it's the circ. saw. Gonna be a bitch ...

Don't dread things that don't require it. It's really not a big
deal. The main issue is safety, so ladders with ladder jacks and
planks, or something similar, is the way to go.

One old junk ladder is all I got.

The saw blade will
only be exposed for roughly a 3/4" depth of cut, which minimizes a lot
of the more grievous danger. Just go at a comfortable rate and let
the saw do the work. Don't try to push it to make it go faster.
That's how injuries and damage occur.

I'll keep it in mind.

I drug a circ. saw up there today just to size it up. If I can
fashion a guide to keep the blade a uniform distance from the
edge of the gutter, it might work.

There's maybe 8 gutter mount struts holding the gutter up.
Have to remove or stop, lift saw, restart 8 times.

Try a composite blade for steel. The lack of teeth should help avoid
ripping the shingles to shreads.

Have you ever used one of those blades to cut roof shingles with a
circular saw? I'm guessing you haven't. Without teeth, same as with
too many teeth, the shingles melt and bind the blade. The teeth don't
rip shingles - moving the saw too quickly rips shingles. The OP will
be trying to follow a chalk line from an awkward position - he
certainly won't be moving the saw quickly.

I popped a fine-tooth 'cip saw blade in and tested. Jammed the teeth
with asphalt muy pronto.

Would you attempt to do the deed on a hot, sunny day with shingles
softened, or on a normal/chilly day?

Thanks,
Willie

On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 22:49:38 -0600, Willie The Wimp
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 08:54:44 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote:

On Mar 23, 10:41Â*am, Michael Dobony wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 22:33:43 -0600, Willie The Wimp wrote:

I guess it's the circ. saw. Gonna be a bitch ...

Don't dread things that don't require it. It's really not a big
deal. The main issue is safety, so ladders with ladder jacks and
planks, or something similar, is the way to go.

One old junk ladder is all I got.


Keep you hips between the rails. You're looking at doing no more than
a yard before moving your ladder.

The saw blade will
only be exposed for roughly a 3/4" depth of cut, which minimizes a lot
of the more grievous danger. Just go at a comfortable rate and let
the saw do the work. Don't try to push it to make it go faster.
That's how injuries and damage occur.

I'll keep it in mind.

I drug a circ. saw up there today just to size it up. If I can
fashion a guide to keep the blade a uniform distance from the
edge of the gutter, it might work.


Snap a chalk line on it. It's worth buying one if you don't have one.

There's maybe 8 gutter mount struts holding the gutter up.
Have to remove or stop, lift saw, restart 8 times.


If you're cutting an inch or less off the roof edge and set you blade
just deep enough, you shouldn't hit any hangers.


I popped a fine-tooth 'cip saw blade in and tested. Jammed the teeth
with asphalt muy pronto.


Rough blade should work better, but you need to start moving in slowly
with full rpm.
I haven't done this, but I'd try my jigsaw with a rough blade first.
Lighter and easier to control. Cheaper blades too.
You'd have to use a knife at the hangers. Nobody will notice.
If somebody says anything tell them to stay off your roof.

Would you attempt to do the deed on a hot, sunny day with shingles
softened, or on a normal/chilly day?


You want just right. Not too hot, not too cold. Just right.

--Vic
Thanks,
Willie

This is not a job anyone does on a regular basis, so most of the
suggestions,so for, are a bit common sense and practical experience
rationale. There is likely several approaches you will have to try,
before you get one that works reasonably well. I don't think any
approach will make this particular job easy and/or smooth sailing.

If all you have is an old ladder, that approach, to me, will make any
cutting approach more tedious, difficult and likely not too safe,
depending on your scenario. A scaffold rents for $10 a week, here. A
scaffold will make any cutting approach, no matter which, much more
convenient, easy and safe.... and the end result would almost
certainly be more satisfying.

Sonny

On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 07:15:56 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:

On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 22:49:38 -0600, Willie The Wimp
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 08:54:44 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote:

On Mar 23, 10:41*am, Michael Dobony wrote:
On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 22:33:43 -0600, Willie The Wimp wrote:

I guess it's the circ. saw. Gonna be a bitch ...

Don't dread things that don't require it. It's really not a big
deal. The main issue is safety, so ladders with ladder jacks and
planks, or something similar, is the way to go.

One old junk ladder is all I got.


Keep you hips between the rails. You're looking at doing no more than
a yard before moving your ladder.

Yeah, a yard sounds about right.

Structure is not very high, but it's on side of a hill, so roof line
is level, ground is not. Luvit, Luvit, Luvit!

The saw blade will
only be exposed for roughly a 3/4" depth of cut, which minimizes a lot
of the more grievous danger. Just go at a comfortable rate and let
the saw do the work. Don't try to push it to make it go faster.
That's how injuries and damage occur.

I'll keep it in mind.

I drug a circ. saw up there today just to size it up. If I can
fashion a guide to keep the blade a uniform distance from the
edge of the gutter, it might work.


Snap a chalk line on it. It's worth buying one if you don't have one.

I got one, but it's a bitch to position it properly, snap it. I'll
probably do both. Overhang is not uniform, might vary from 2" to
4" on the side I've been measuring.

There's maybe 8 gutter mount struts holding the gutter up.
Have to remove or stop, lift saw, restart 8 times.


If you're cutting an inch or less off the roof edge and set you blade
just deep enough, you shouldn't hit any hangers.

Hangers mount in the *top* of gutters. Hitting one with circ. saw
at full rpm would be hell-to-pay, I Gay-Ron-Tee.


I popped a fine-tooth 'cip saw blade in and tested. Jammed the teeth
with asphalt muy pronto.


Rough blade should work better, but you need to start moving in slowly
with full rpm.

Check.

I haven't done this, but I'd try my jigsaw with a rough blade first.
Lighter and easier to control. Cheaper blades too.
You'd have to use a knife at the hangers. Nobody will notice.
If somebody says anything tell them to stay off your roof.

I got a little piece in the workshop I can test on.

Would you attempt to do the deed on a hot, sunny day with shingles
softened, or on a normal/chilly day?


You want just right. Not too hot, not too cold. Just right.

Check.

Many thanks to all.

Willie