I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? What weather
conditions?

What would be the best paint? I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

Should I hire a pro? How do I select?

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? Or dig it all out and start
new?

What sort of prep should I do?

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

Thanks in advance,

On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:58:55 -0800 (PST), kansascats
wrote:

I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? What weather
conditions?

I've always found that clear days with moderate humidity and 50F to 70F works
best, when it doesn't get down below freezing for 24 hours, or so. The idea
is to pick a day when the paint dries completely but not too fast. You want
to maintain a "wet line".

What would be the best paint? I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

I like Benjamin Moore, but Sherwin Williams has a good rep, too. Spend real
money on paint. It'll pay in the long run.

Should I hire a pro? How do I select?

Your choice. I do it myself. I can't see spending thousand$ on a pro. I'd
rather spend that money on toys. ;-)

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

My choice. That and a 2" or 2-1/2" brush for trim and edging. I prefer
angled bristles rather than straight cut.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? Or dig it all out and start
new?

Anything that's loose has to come out. There is no reason to pry out good
caulk, though.

What sort of prep should I do?

Depends on the condition of the surface. Roughing up the old paint with a
wire brush (will help find loose paint, too) and a good bath is a minimum.

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

I've always had good luck with answers from the people staffing a *real* paint
store.

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:58:55 -0800 (PST), kansascats
wrote:

I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? What weather
conditions?

I've always found that clear days with moderate humidity and 50F to 70F
works
best, when it doesn't get down below freezing for 24 hours, or so. The
idea
is to pick a day when the paint dries completely but not too fast. You
want
to maintain a "wet line".

What would be the best paint? I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

I like Benjamin Moore, but Sherwin Williams has a good rep, too. Spend
real
money on paint. It'll pay in the long run.

Should I hire a pro? How do I select?

Your choice. I do it myself. I can't see spending thousand$ on a pro.
I'd
rather spend that money on toys. ;-)

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

My choice. That and a 2" or 2-1/2" brush for trim and edging. I prefer
angled bristles rather than straight cut.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? Or dig it all out and start
new?

Anything that's loose has to come out. There is no reason to pry out good
caulk, though.

What sort of prep should I do?

Depends on the condition of the surface. Roughing up the old paint with a
wire brush (will help find loose paint, too) and a good bath is a minimum.

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

I've always had good luck with answers from the people staffing a *real*
paint
store.



The only thing I would add is , taking on a WHOLE house as your FIRST real
exterior paint project could be a costly mistake and leave you very
discouraged..If you also work a regular job you will be lucky to finish it
this summer....Oh , one more thing...You're gonna need ALOT more than a 4
inch brush and caulking gun..That is unless the whole house is less than 6
feet tall....

On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 00:23:39 -0500, "benick" wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:58:55 -0800 (PST), kansascats
wrote:

I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? What weather
conditions?

I've always found that clear days with moderate humidity and 50F to 70F
works
best, when it doesn't get down below freezing for 24 hours, or so. The
idea
is to pick a day when the paint dries completely but not too fast. You
want
to maintain a "wet line".

What would be the best paint? I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

I like Benjamin Moore, but Sherwin Williams has a good rep, too. Spend
real
money on paint. It'll pay in the long run.

Should I hire a pro? How do I select?

Your choice. I do it myself. I can't see spending thousand$ on a pro.
I'd
rather spend that money on toys. ;-)

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

My choice. That and a 2" or 2-1/2" brush for trim and edging. I prefer
angled bristles rather than straight cut.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? Or dig it all out and start
new?

Anything that's loose has to come out. There is no reason to pry out good
caulk, though.

What sort of prep should I do?

Depends on the condition of the surface. Roughing up the old paint with a
wire brush (will help find loose paint, too) and a good bath is a minimum.

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

I've always had good luck with answers from the people staffing a *real*
paint
store.



The only thing I would add is , taking on a WHOLE house as your FIRST real
exterior paint project could be a costly mistake and leave you very
discouraged..If you also work a regular job you will be lucky to finish it
this summer....

On my Vermont house I painted one side a summer. I also sided one side a
summer, but that's a different story.

Oh , one more thing...You're gonna need ALOT more than a 4
inch brush and caulking gun..That is unless the whole house is less than 6
feet tall....

Ladders are cheap, too. ...even good ones. Buy nothing else.

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 00:23:39 -0500, "benick" wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:58:55 -0800 (PST), kansascats

wrote:

I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? What weather
conditions?

I've always found that clear days with moderate humidity and 50F to 70F
works
best, when it doesn't get down below freezing for 24 hours, or so. The
idea
is to pick a day when the paint dries completely but not too fast. You
want
to maintain a "wet line".

What would be the best paint? I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

I like Benjamin Moore, but Sherwin Williams has a good rep, too. Spend
real
money on paint. It'll pay in the long run.

Should I hire a pro? How do I select?

Your choice. I do it myself. I can't see spending thousand$ on a pro.
I'd
rather spend that money on toys. ;-)

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

My choice. That and a 2" or 2-1/2" brush for trim and edging. I prefer
angled bristles rather than straight cut.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? Or dig it all out and start
new?

Anything that's loose has to come out. There is no reason to pry out
good
caulk, though.

What sort of prep should I do?

Depends on the condition of the surface. Roughing up the old paint with
a
wire brush (will help find loose paint, too) and a good bath is a
minimum.

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

I've always had good luck with answers from the people staffing a *real*
paint
store.



The only thing I would add is , taking on a WHOLE house as your FIRST real
exterior paint project could be a costly mistake and leave you very
discouraged..If you also work a regular job you will be lucky to finish it
this summer....

On my Vermont house I painted one side a summer. I also sided one side a
summer, but that's a different story.

Oh , one more thing...You're gonna need ALOT more than a 4
inch brush and caulking gun..That is unless the whole house is less than 6
feet tall....

Ladders are cheap, too. ...even good ones. Buy nothing else.


As SLOW as he will be going renting will cost as much as buying...He WILL
need more than one ladder and probably pump jacks...Even I wouldn't attempt
to paint an entire house alone part time...I would atleast hire a couple
helpers...Putting up pump jacks alone is scarey at the very least...Trying
to do it ALL off ladders is PAINFULL on the back and feet as well as slow
and depending on the paint used , it will look like **** with that many over
laps...

On Mar 7, 12:55*am, "benick" wrote:
wrote in message

...





On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 00:23:39 -0500, "benick" wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:58:55 -0800 (PST), kansascats

wrote:

I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. *I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? *What weather
conditions?

I've always found that clear days with moderate humidity and 50F to 70F
works
best, when it doesn't get down below freezing for 24 hours, or so. *The
idea
is to pick a day when the paint dries completely but not too fast. *You
want
to maintain a "wet line".

What would be the best paint? * I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

I like Benjamin Moore, but Sherwin Williams has a good rep, too. *Spend
real
money on paint. *It'll pay in the long run.

Should I hire a pro? *How do I select?

Your choice. *I do it myself. *I can't see spending thousand$ on a pro.
I'd
rather spend that money on toys. *;-)

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

My choice. *That and a 2" or 2-1/2" brush for trim and edging. *I prefer
angled bristles rather than straight cut.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? *Or dig it all out and start
new?

Anything that's loose has to come out. *There is no reason to pry out
good
caulk, though.

What sort of prep should I do?

Depends on the condition of the surface. *Roughing up the old paint with
a
wire brush (will help find loose paint, too) and a good bath is a
minimum.

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

I've always had good luck with answers from the people staffing a *real*
paint
store.

The only thing I would add is , taking on a WHOLE house as your FIRST real
exterior paint project could be a costly mistake and leave you very
discouraged..If you also work a regular job you will be lucky to finish it
this summer....

On my Vermont house I painted one side a summer. *I also sided one side a
summer, but that's a different story.

Oh , one more thing...You're gonna need ALOT more than a 4
inch brush and caulking gun..That is unless the whole house is less than 6
feet tall....

Ladders are cheap, too. *...even good ones. *Buy nothing else.

As SLOW as he will be going renting will cost as much as buying...He WILL
need more than one ladder and probably pump jacks...Even I wouldn't attempt
to paint an entire house alone part time...I would atleast hire a couple
helpers...Putting up pump jacks alone is scarey at the very least...Trying
to do it ALL off ladders is PAINFULL on the back and feet as well as slow
and depending on the paint used , it will look like **** with that many over
laps...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Mar 7, 12:55*am, "benick" wrote:
wrote in message

...





On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 00:23:39 -0500, "benick" wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:58:55 -0800 (PST), kansascats

wrote:

I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. *I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? *What weather
conditions?

I've always found that clear days with moderate humidity and 50F to 70F
works
best, when it doesn't get down below freezing for 24 hours, or so. *The
idea
is to pick a day when the paint dries completely but not too fast. *You
want
to maintain a "wet line".

What would be the best paint? * I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

I like Benjamin Moore, but Sherwin Williams has a good rep, too. *Spend
real
money on paint. *It'll pay in the long run.

Should I hire a pro? *How do I select?

Your choice. *I do it myself. *I can't see spending thousand$ on a pro.
I'd
rather spend that money on toys. *;-)

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

My choice. *That and a 2" or 2-1/2" brush for trim and edging. *I prefer
angled bristles rather than straight cut.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? *Or dig it all out and start
new?

Anything that's loose has to come out. *There is no reason to pry out
good
caulk, though.

What sort of prep should I do?

Depends on the condition of the surface. *Roughing up the old paint with
a
wire brush (will help find loose paint, too) and a good bath is a
minimum.

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

I've always had good luck with answers from the people staffing a *real*
paint
store.

The only thing I would add is , taking on a WHOLE house as your FIRST real
exterior paint project could be a costly mistake and leave you very
discouraged..If you also work a regular job you will be lucky to finish it
this summer....

On my Vermont house I painted one side a summer. *I also sided one side a
summer, but that's a different story.

Oh , one more thing...You're gonna need ALOT more than a 4
inch brush and caulking gun..That is unless the whole house is less than 6
feet tall....

Ladders are cheap, too. *...even good ones. *Buy nothing else.

As SLOW as he will be going renting will cost as much as buying...He WILL
need more than one ladder and probably pump jacks...Even I wouldn't attempt
to paint an entire house alone part time...I would atleast hire a couple
helpers...Putting up pump jacks alone is scarey at the very least...Trying
to do it ALL off ladders is PAINFULL on the back and feet as well as slow
and depending on the paint used , it will look like **** with that many over
laps...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Did you look at the house? Practically all the painting except for
the dormers is 1 story. No way does he need pump jacks. One
extension ladder to get the dormers and one or two folding ladders
will be fine. Looks like more time will be spent on trim that siding
with all that porch space.

It is a lot of work for one person but if you really devote plenty of
time to it you can be done in a few weekends. I'd start as soon as
the weather permits to avoid the heat of summer. Not to keep the paint
out of the heat but to keep you out of the heat.

On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:55:27 -0500, "benick" wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 00:23:39 -0500, "benick" wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:58:55 -0800 (PST), kansascats

wrote:

I have a 1.5 story home,
http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=163

that has original paint from 2000. I'm pretty sure it's ready for
another as the caulking is cracking and the coverage looks thin.

I live in a somewhat humid area -- NE KS.

What would be the best time of the year to paint? What weather
conditions?

I've always found that clear days with moderate humidity and 50F to 70F
works
best, when it doesn't get down below freezing for 24 hours, or so. The
idea
is to pick a day when the paint dries completely but not too fast. You
want
to maintain a "wet line".

What would be the best paint? I hope this lasts another 10 minimum.

I like Benjamin Moore, but Sherwin Williams has a good rep, too. Spend
real
money on paint. It'll pay in the long run.

Should I hire a pro? How do I select?

Your choice. I do it myself. I can't see spending thousand$ on a pro.
I'd
rather spend that money on toys. ;-)

Should I do it myself --- seems like a 4" brush is my most likely
choice.

My choice. That and a 2" or 2-1/2" brush for trim and edging. I prefer
angled bristles rather than straight cut.

Do I recaulk over the old caulk/paint? Or dig it all out and start
new?

Anything that's loose has to come out. There is no reason to pry out
good
caulk, though.

What sort of prep should I do?

Depends on the condition of the surface. Roughing up the old paint with
a
wire brush (will help find loose paint, too) and a good bath is a
minimum.

Feel free to direct me to links, etc

I've always had good luck with answers from the people staffing a *real*
paint
store.



The only thing I would add is , taking on a WHOLE house as your FIRST real
exterior paint project could be a costly mistake and leave you very
discouraged..If you also work a regular job you will be lucky to finish it
this summer....

On my Vermont house I painted one side a summer. I also sided one side a
summer, but that's a different story.

Oh , one more thing...You're gonna need ALOT more than a 4
inch brush and caulking gun..That is unless the whole house is less than 6
feet tall....

Ladders are cheap, too. ...even good ones. Buy nothing else.


As SLOW as he will be going renting will cost as much as buying...He WILL
need more than one ladder and probably pump jacks...Even I wouldn't attempt
to paint an entire house alone part time...I would atleast hire a couple
helpers...Putting up pump jacks alone is scarey at the very least...Trying
to do it ALL off ladders is PAINFULL on the back and feet as well as slow
and depending on the paint used , it will look like **** with that many over
laps...

No need for pump jacks. Extension ladders work for all but the most difficult
houses and there pump jacks won't help anyhow. It doesn't take *THAT* long to
paint a house.