.... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

On Feb 23, 1:53*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

Lundmark Wax Remover ive used on floors many times with a buffer, but
its water base so if this is furniture you have to be carefull and
test an area. Paint remover should work great and be safe, are you
sure its just wax and not a bunch of modern polymer chemicals added to
the wax. Why do you think its still in the wood,, is it sticky?
Mineral spirits and laquer thinner are strong enough, and a good
Methelene Chloride paint remover should be even better.

ransley wrote:
On Feb 23, 1:53 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

Lundmark Wax Remover ive used on floors many times with a buffer, but
its water base so if this is furniture you have to be carefull and
test an area. Paint remover should work great and be safe, are you
sure its just wax and not a bunch of modern polymer chemicals added to
the wax. Why do you think its still in the wood,, is it sticky?
Mineral spirits and laquer thinner are strong enough, and a good
Methelene Chloride paint remover should be even better.

Well, yeah, it's sticky. I only THINK it's wax inasmuch as lacquer thinner
removed SOME of it.

I'd rather not use paint remover 'cause that would attack the underlying
stain. I was hoping to get the finish (wax?) off so I could re-varnish the
table, but if I have to go down to the bare wood, well, so be it.

I've already spent the better parts of three weeks on HALF the goddamn table
top. What's another lifetime?

On 2/23/2011 4:57 PM, HeyBub wrote:
ransley wrote:
On Feb 23, 1:53 pm, wrote:
... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

Lundmark Wax Remover ive used on floors many times with a buffer, but
its water base so if this is furniture you have to be carefull and
test an area. Paint remover should work great and be safe, are you
sure its just wax and not a bunch of modern polymer chemicals added to
the wax. Why do you think its still in the wood,, is it sticky?
Mineral spirits and laquer thinner are strong enough, and a good
Methelene Chloride paint remover should be even better.

Well, yeah, it's sticky. I only THINK it's wax inasmuch as lacquer thinner
removed SOME of it.

I'd rather not use paint remover 'cause that would attack the underlying
stain. I was hoping to get the finish (wax?) off so I could re-varnish the
table, but if I have to go down to the bare wood, well, so be it.

I've already spent the better parts of three weeks on HALF the goddamn table
top. What's another lifetime?



Three weeks on a table top? Must have been in a long poker game ) If
fine steel wool and mineral spirits don't take off the "wax", then it
ain't wax. Try wiping with Dawn dish detergent/water, wipe off right
away...if it is silicone, that might take it off. If that doesn't do
it, a quick wipe with denatured alcohol....it isn't Formica, is it??

"Tom Mills" wrote in
:


Automotive wax and grease remover used before painting is the best,
but I have always heard it is just a form of naptha.




I have a gallon of that stuff right here.

The ingredient list says it contains:
Xylene,
VM&P Naphtha,
Isopropanol.

Proportions not given on label.

--
Tegger

wrote:
..

Lundmark Wax Remover ive used on floors many times with a buffer,
but its water base so if this is furniture you have to be carefull
and test an area. Paint remover should work great and be safe, are
you sure its just wax and not a bunch of modern polymer chemicals
added to the wax. Why do you think its still in the wood,, is it
sticky? Mineral spirits and laquer thinner are strong enough, and a
good Methelene Chloride paint remover should be even better.

Well, yeah, it's sticky. I only THINK it's wax inasmuch as lacquer
thinner removed SOME of it.

I'd rather not use paint remover 'cause that would attack the
underlying stain. I was hoping to get the finish (wax?) off so I
could re-varnish the table, but if I have to go down to the bare
wood, well, so be it. I've already spent the better parts of three weeks
on HALF the
goddamn table top. What's another lifetime?



Three weeks on a table top? Must have been in a long poker game ) If
fine steel wool and mineral spirits don't take off the "wax", then
it ain't wax. Try wiping with Dawn dish detergent/water, wipe off
right away...if it is silicone, that might take it off. If that
doesn't do it, a quick wipe with denatured alcohol....it isn't
Formica, is it??

I kept getting bubbles in the half the table I was working on. Crap! Let it
hardend for a day or two, sand it down and try again (quality brush, cheese
cloth, spray...). Still bubbles. Finally decided it was the underlayment
that was reacting with the varnish. Mumble-mumble....

Strip all that **** off, and start over with gel stain. Now I've got brush
strokes! Sand that down. Oops! Got to the bare wood. More stain, this time
diluted. Sand this time with 2000 grit. Okay, got rid of all the bumps. Now
apply the varnish. Looks good. Mostly.

Time to start on the other half of the table, and that's where I run into
the (possible) wax stuff.

As to your suggestions: I tried alcohol. The table laughed. I tried
detergent. The table merely chuckled. I tried lacquer thinner. The table
went out for tacos and beer. No, it's not Formica; at least it better not be
Formica. The original owner paid $800 for the damned thing. It's just a
contemporary dining room table, for cryin' out loud!

I have a gallon of Granny Fingle's MEK Enraged Rhino Finish Devastator and
Everything Remover - Do not use around open flame, children, or subject can
to sudden shocks.

I intend to show this container to the table to see if I can get the table's
attention, hoping the table will straighten up and do right before I render
it unable to have children.

I may just cover the sumbitch with vinyl wallpaper and call it good.

On 2/23/2011 8:43 PM, HeyBub wrote:
wrote:
.

Lundmark Wax Remover ive used on floors many times with a buffer,
but its water base so if this is furniture you have to be carefull
and test an area. Paint remover should work great and be safe, are
you sure its just wax and not a bunch of modern polymer chemicals
added to the wax. Why do you think its still in the wood,, is it
sticky? Mineral spirits and laquer thinner are strong enough, and a
good Methelene Chloride paint remover should be even better.

Well, yeah, it's sticky. I only THINK it's wax inasmuch as lacquer
thinner removed SOME of it.

I'd rather not use paint remover 'cause that would attack the
underlying stain. I was hoping to get the finish (wax?) off so I
could re-varnish the table, but if I have to go down to the bare
wood, well, so be it. I've already spent the better parts of three weeks
on HALF the
goddamn table top. What's another lifetime?



Three weeks on a table top? Must have been in a long poker game ) If
fine steel wool and mineral spirits don't take off the "wax", then
it ain't wax. Try wiping with Dawn dish detergent/water, wipe off
right away...if it is silicone, that might take it off. If that
doesn't do it, a quick wipe with denatured alcohol....it isn't
Formica, is it??

I kept getting bubbles in the half the table I was working on. Crap! Let it
hardend for a day or two, sand it down and try again (quality brush, cheese
cloth, spray...). Still bubbles. Finally decided it was the underlayment
that was reacting with the varnish. Mumble-mumble....

Strip all that **** off, and start over with gel stain. Now I've got brush
strokes! Sand that down. Oops! Got to the bare wood. More stain, this time
diluted. Sand this time with 2000 grit. Okay, got rid of all the bumps. Now
apply the varnish. Looks good. Mostly.

Time to start on the other half of the table, and that's where I run into
the (possible) wax stuff.

As to your suggestions: I tried alcohol. The table laughed. I tried
detergent. The table merely chuckled. I tried lacquer thinner. The table
went out for tacos and beer. No, it's not Formica; at least it better not be
Formica. The original owner paid $800 for the damned thing. It's just a
contemporary dining room table, for cryin' out loud!

Some exotic, very oily wood? With water-based clear coat?

I have a gallon of Granny Fingle's MEK Enraged Rhino Finish Devastator and
Everything Remover - Do not use around open flame, children, or subject can
to sudden shocks.

I intend to show this container to the table to see if I can get the table's
attention, hoping the table will straighten up and do right before I render
it unable to have children.

I may just cover the sumbitch with vinyl wallpaper and call it good.



Water based finish? If so, likely the solvents didn't evaporate before
you applied it? I've done lots of refinishing and never encountered
such problems. How about a coat or two of shellac after the stain, wait
a week and apply whatever. I've never used gel stain, either, and have
no idea what it is like. I use solvent-based stain, wipe on, or mix my
own with a little artist oil paint for pigment, turps, a touch of real
varnish.

On Feb 23, 8:10*pm, "
wrote:
On 2/23/2011 8:43 PM, HeyBub wrote:





wrote:
.

Lundmark Wax Remover ive used on floors many times with a buffer,
but its water base so if this is furniture you have to be carefull
and test an area. Paint remover should work great and be safe, are
you sure its just wax and not a bunch of modern polymer chemicals
added to the wax. Why do you think its still in the wood,, is it
sticky? Mineral spirits and laquer thinner are strong enough, and a
good Methelene Chloride paint remover should be even better.

Well, yeah, it's sticky. I only THINK it's wax inasmuch as lacquer
thinner removed SOME of it.

I'd rather not use paint remover 'cause that would attack the
underlying stain. I was hoping to get the finish (wax?) off so I
could re-varnish the table, but if I have to go down to the bare
wood, well, so be it. I've already spent the better parts of three weeks
on HALF the
goddamn table top. What's another lifetime?

Three weeks on a table top? *Must have been in a long poker game ) If
fine steel wool and mineral spirits don't take off the "wax", then
it ain't wax. *Try wiping with Dawn dish detergent/water, wipe off
right away...if it is silicone, that might take it off. *If that
doesn't do it, a quick wipe with denatured alcohol....it isn't
Formica, is it??

I kept getting bubbles in the half the table I was working on. Crap! Let it
hardend for a day or two, sand it down and try again (quality brush, cheese
cloth, spray...). Still bubbles. Finally decided it was the underlayment
that was reacting with the varnish. Mumble-mumble....

Strip all that **** off, and start over with gel stain. Now I've got brush
strokes! Sand that down. Oops! Got to the bare wood. More stain, this time
diluted. Sand this time with 2000 grit. Okay, got rid of all the bumps. Now
apply the varnish. Looks good. Mostly.

Time to start on the other half of the table, and that's where I run into
the (possible) wax stuff.

As to your suggestions: I tried alcohol. The table laughed. I tried
detergent. The table merely chuckled. I tried lacquer thinner. The table
went out for tacos and beer. No, it's not Formica; at least it better not be
Formica. The original owner paid $800 for the damned thing. It's just a
contemporary dining room table, for cryin' out loud!

Some exotic, very oily wood? *With water-based clear coat?



I have a gallon of Granny Fingle's MEK Enraged Rhino Finish Devastator and
Everything Remover - Do not use around open flame, children, or subject can
to sudden shocks.

I intend to show this container to the table to see if I can get the table's
attention, hoping the table will straighten up and do right before I render
it unable to have children.

I may just cover the sumbitch with vinyl wallpaper and call it good.

Water based finish? *If so, likely the solvents didn't evaporate before
you applied it? *I've done lots of refinishing and never encountered
such problems. *How about a coat or two of shellac after the stain, wait
a week and apply whatever. *I've never used gel stain, either, and have
no idea what it is like. *I use solvent-based stain, wipe on, or mix my
own with a little artist oil paint for pigment, turps, a touch of real
varnish.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Naptha followed by soap and water and elbow grease.

On 2/23/2011 2:53 PM, HeyBub wrote:
... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.


If it's really wax, ammonia is the old standard for removing built up
wax on floors.

Not sure what process you should use, I did a quick google to double
check on ammonia and there are lots of tips on how to use it to remove wax.

On Feb 24, 9:36*am, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/23/2011 2:53 PM, HeyBub wrote:

... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

If it's really wax, ammonia is the old standard for removing built up
wax on floors.

Not sure what process you should use, I did a quick google to double
check on ammonia and there are lots of tips on how to use it to remove wax.

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Feb 24, 9:36 am, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/23/2011 2:53 PM, HeyBub wrote:

... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

If it's really wax, ammonia is the old standard for removing built up
wax on floors.

Not sure what process you should use, I did a quick google to double
check on ammonia and there are lots of tips on how to use it to
remove wax.

Sometimes polymer varnishes will turn into a gummy residue.

Could be! I'm on my third application of MEK and the table is resisting,
though not completely, my insistence that it yield to my ministrations.

Propane torch is next on my list.

On Feb 24, 11:12*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Feb 24, 9:36 am, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/23/2011 2:53 PM, HeyBub wrote:

... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

If it's really wax, ammonia is the old standard for removing built up
wax on floors.

Not sure what process you should use, I did a quick google to double
check on ammonia and there are lots of tips on how to use it to
remove wax.

Sometimes polymer varnishes will turn into a gummy residue.

Could be! I'm on my third application of MEK and the table is resisting,
though not completely, my insistence that it yield to my ministrations.

Propane torch is next on my list.

Xylene is the common solvent for carnauba wax and similar. Used make
Simonize smell funny in the old days before California found out it
causes acne. If nothing else works and you need to get to bare wood
use any bodied methylene chloride paint remover. Still the best.

joe

In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Feb 24, 9:36 am, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/23/2011 2:53 PM, HeyBub wrote:

... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

If it's really wax, ammonia is the old standard for removing built up
wax on floors.

Not sure what process you should use, I did a quick google to double
check on ammonia and there are lots of tips on how to use it to
remove wax.

Sometimes polymer varnishes will turn into a gummy residue.

Could be! I'm on my third application of MEK and the table is resisting,
though not completely, my insistence that it yield to my ministrations.

Propane torch is next on my list.

Pondering from the sidelines on this thread, I can't quite figure out
why you haven't tried small arms fire.

On 2/23/2011 2:53 PM, HeyBub wrote:

... from a surface in anticipation of re-varnishing?

I've tried:

Sanding,
Lacquer thinner,
Mineral spirits, and
Alcohol

with little or no success.

Thanks.

A few thoughts and questions:

1) You stared that the finish / topcoat was sticky. This may be due to more
than just wax. It could be from the oil in hands slowly deteriorating the
finish. Wax removers alone will not get all of this but a good cleaning
with both water and solvent based cleaners should.

2) Are you using lots of cleaning cloths or paper towels when you wipe away
the wax? You do not want to spread the wax / silicone around. Keep using a
new face of the cleaning cloth / paper towel each time you make a swipe.

3) You stated that you are getting bubbles when you lay down the finish.
Typically, residual wax / silicone creates fish eyes / craters. If you
really are getting bubbles, it suggests that either the technique you are
using to lay down the finish is not sufficient (unlikely given what you say
you have tried) or the temperature of your shop is such that it is warming
as you go making any trapped air come to the surface. It could also be due
to a naturally oily wood as someone else suggested.

Good Luck.

Baron wrote:

A few thoughts and questions:

1) You stared that the finish / topcoat was sticky. This may be due
to more than just wax. It could be from the oil in hands slowly
deteriorating the finish. Wax removers alone will not get all of
this but a good cleaning with both water and solvent based cleaners
should.
2) Are you using lots of cleaning cloths or paper towels when you
wipe away the wax? You do not want to spread the wax / silicone
around. Keep using a new face of the cleaning cloth / paper towel
each time you make a swipe.
3) You stated that you are getting bubbles when you lay down the
finish. Typically, residual wax / silicone creates fish eyes /
craters. If you really are getting bubbles, it suggests that either
the technique you are using to lay down the finish is not sufficient
(unlikely given what you say you have tried) or the temperature of
your shop is such that it is warming as you go making any trapped air
come to the surface. It could also be due to a naturally oily wood
as someone else suggested.
Good Luck.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm convinced the bubbles came from the
underlying fininsh, wax, grime, or the territorial markings of the
star-faced mole. After taking everything down to where the screws were
showing, I was able to lay down a superb finish.

Except for one or two spots the tablecloth should cover.

I think the previous owner sprayed it with Sani-Flush instead of Pledge.

Joe wrote:

Xylene is the common solvent for carnauba wax and similar. Used make
Simonize smell funny in the old days before California found out it
causes acne. If nothing else works and you need to get to bare wood
use any bodied methylene chloride paint remover. Still the best.


BINGO!

Xylene did, in fact, dissolve the, er, whatever it was.

Upon closer inspection, the table top suffered (very) minor dings of less
than a millimeter over the course of its life. These filled with something
(wax?) which lay in wait for whatever tried to invade their neighborhood,
like varnish.

These (wax?) molecules would rush out from hiding and ambush the vulnerable
(wet) varnish and cause carbuncles.

You suggestion of Xylene worked like a flame-thrower on Japanese
hidey-holes. Killed them ****ers dead!

The table is on its way to joining the club of respectable furniture.

Thanks again for the suggestion.