The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

wrote in message
...
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone
complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a
1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If
you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear
silicone and hand tighten.

wrote in message
...
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone
complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a
1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If
you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear
silicone and hand tighten.

On Jan 28, 2:41*pm, wrote:
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

I would go buy one of these (either 1 1/2 or 2" depending on your
currnet fitting) and try the nut that comes with it.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Cello-WDSJ-...pter-C-x-Compr
http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/produ.../wdsj-20-2.jpg


I bought one of these at HD a few months ago and the nut had an
integrated washer that pressed against the inside flare of the copper
fitting and pressed tight to the inserted PVC. No plastic cone washer
or rubber washer. Worked great.

On Jan 28, 2:41*pm, wrote:
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight
connection?

On Jan 28, 2:41*pm, wrote:
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

Finally found the picture of what I'm talking about. I could not get
my copper to pvc trap adapters to stop dripping without using this
kind of nut (in copper) that comes with a copper trap adapter.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images...ltinwasher.jpg

On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 11:41:16 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.
--
Mr.E

On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, lid wrote:

Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.

I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash.
It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes?

On Jan 28, 2:49*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, wrote:
Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.

I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash.
It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes?

I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
work.

"Joe" wrote in
:


wrote in message
...
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack
is STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home
Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and
washer for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone
complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a
1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this
application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an
unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten.




What Joe is referring to:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_24745-143-91...Dwasher%2Bslip

"hr(bob) " wrote in news:ba2071be-36f7-
:

On Jan 28, 2:49*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, wrote:
Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.

I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash.
It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes?

I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
work.


Topped off with roofing cement!

On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:38:55 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

"Joe" wrote in
:


wrote in message
...
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack
is STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home
Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and
washer for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.

Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone
complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a
1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this
application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an
unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten.




What Joe is referring to:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_24745-143-91...Dwasher%2Bslip

Yes and note the sizes:

•Inlet: 1 1/2"
•Outlet: 1 1/4"

That explains why I grabbed a wrong size washer from my plumbing
stash.... the washer leaked even after changing one out. Silly me.

On Jan 28, 3:40*pm, Red Green wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in news:ba2071be-36f7-
:

On Jan 28, 2:49*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, wrote:
Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.

I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash.
It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes?

I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
work.

Topped off with roofing cement!

Never thought of thatG

On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:03:01 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
work.

Topped off with roofing cement!

Never thought of thatG

Why not? Three-ply duct tape works wonders on top of the roofing tar.

Oren wrote in news:vbm6k6d4grua2pdmupics80379hol1b946@
4ax.com:

On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:03:01 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
work.

Topped off with roofing cement!

Never thought of thatG

Why not? Three-ply duct tape works wonders on top of the roofing tar.

Hmmmm.... You da man Oren.

Oren wrote in
:

On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:38:55 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

"Joe" wrote in
:


wrote in message
.
..
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack
is STILL leaking.

I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home
Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut
and washer for a copper fitting.

They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New
trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but
never stop it.

The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.

Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it
into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?

If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape
and give up.

Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone
complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into
a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this
application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an
unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten.




What Joe is referring to:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_24745-143-91...0379&Ntt=washe
r+slip&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dwashe r%2Bslip

Yes and note the sizes:

•Inlet: 1 1/2"
•Outlet: 1 1/4"

That explains why I grabbed a wrong size washer from my plumbing
stash.... the washer leaked even after changing one out. Silly me.

This is getting scarey. Replies on plumbing from me that actually
contribute.

On Jan 28, 3:06*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight
connection?

Yes, it slips right out no matter how tight I make the nut.

?
wrote in message
...
On Jan 28, 3:06 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight
connection?

Yes, it slips right out no matter how tight I make the nut.

Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

On Jan 29, 2:50*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. *Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. * It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. *Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. * It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and (b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

--
aem sends...

On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, aemeijers wrote:

On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

I'm hearing some faint bells go off here.

Yep.

I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and

....or accidentally threw it out.

(b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw
away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap
and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious.

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, wrote:

On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

I'm hearing some faint bells go off here.

Yep.

I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and

...or accidentally threw it out.

(b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw
away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap
and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious.

Gmmm,
Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap.
Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
inclined, LOL!

On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:



wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, wrote:

On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

I'm hearing some faint bells go off here.

Yep.

I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and

...or accidentally threw it out.

(b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw
away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap
and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious.

Gmmm,
Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap.

They do but they're also available individually.

Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
inclined, LOL!

Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose.

On Jan 30, 12:34*am, "
wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, *wrote:

On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed * wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. *Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. * It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? *There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

I'm hearing some faint bells go off here.

Yep.

I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and

...or accidentally threw it out.

(b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw
away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. *These things are cheap
and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious.

Gmmm,
Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap.

They do but they're also available individually.

Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
inclined, LOL!

Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The problem is those P traps are junk quality

I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on
the fittings right before putting them together.

The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks and the fittings still
come apart easily when necessary

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 07:10:00 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Jan 30, 12:34*am, "
wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, *wrote:

On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed * wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. *Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. * It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? *There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

I'm hearing some faint bells go off here.

Yep.

I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and

...or accidentally threw it out.

(b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw
away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. *These things are cheap
and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious.

Gmmm,
Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap.

They do but they're also available individually.

Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
inclined, LOL!

Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The problem is those P traps are junk quality

I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on
the fittings right before putting them together.

The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks and the fittings still
come apart easily when necessary

I don't have problems once the parts are replaced, but your idea is
interesting. Does any leftover caulk cause problems down the road?

On Jan 29, 6:25*pm, aemeijers wrote:
I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and (b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

I think I finally got it. Running the dishwasher right now, and no
drips!

It took FIVE different nuts and washers to find one that would seal
up. The one that finally worked was from Lowes, a metal nut with a
super-soft orange washer.

I tried the plastic nut with plastic washer from the kit, metal nuts
with tapered rubber washers in each direction, metal nut with square
rubber washer... all leaked.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 08:22:18 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Jan 29, 6:25*pm, aemeijers wrote:
I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and (b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.

I think I finally got it. Running the dishwasher right now, and no
drips!

It took FIVE different nuts and washers to find one that would seal
up. The one that finally worked was from Lowes, a metal nut with a
super-soft orange washer.

I tried the plastic nut with plastic washer from the kit, metal nuts
with tapered rubber washers in each direction, metal nut with square
rubber washer... all leaked.

Sounds like you have a damaged part in there. Leave it, as long as there are
no leaks, but next time you go in there, replace everything. It's cheaper
than insanity.

On Jan 29, 8:57*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
Gmmm,
Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap.
Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
inclined, LOL!

I bought a kit.

The kit does NOT come with:
1. A nut and washer for the drain stack.
2. Tailpiece for the sink drain basket.
3. Nut and washer for the tailpiece.

" wrote in
:

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 07:10:00 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Jan 30, 12:34 am, "
wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500,
wrote:

On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed
wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a
larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out
unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may
be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't
say for sure.

Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.

Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before
tightening the nut? There is not much fight if things fit.

Pictures?

I'm hearing some faint bells go off here.

Yep.

I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and

...or accidentally threw it out.

(b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with
the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out
of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but
unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost
anything to try.

Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years)
I now throw away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones.
These things are cheap and are often damaged in a way that's not
obvious.

Gmmm,
Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P
trap.

They do but they're also available individually.

Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
inclined, LOL!

Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I
suppose.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The problem is those P traps are junk quality

I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on
the fittings right before putting them together.

The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks and the fittings still
come apart easily when necessary

I don't have problems once the parts are replaced, but your idea is
interesting. Does any leftover caulk cause problems down the road?

Another options on plastic joints a bit more serious than roofing
cement.

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Rect...t-5058920.html

On Jan 30, 11:30*am, "
wrote:
Sounds like you have a damaged part in there. *Leave it, as long as there are
no leaks, but next time you go in there, replace everything. *It's cheaper
than insanity.

That's the thing. I DID replace everything that was replaceable.
TWICE.

BTW, it still leaks. Only one drop every time the sump pump runs,
which is a HUGE improvement over a tablespoon. Luckily the sump pump
only runs when the laundry machine drains. Once a week.

I'm going to let it go a while. Hopefully with some crud and mineral
deposits it will seal up.