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P-trap slip joint still leaking
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
wrote in message ... The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
wrote in message ... The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 28, 2:41*pm, wrote:
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. I would go buy one of these (either 1 1/2 or 2" depending on your currnet fitting) and try the nut that comes with it. http://www.pexsupply.com/Cello-WDSJ-...pter-C-x-Compr http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/produ.../wdsj-20-2.jpg I bought one of these at HD a few months ago and the nut had an integrated washer that pressed against the inside flare of the copper fitting and pressed tight to the inserted PVC. No plastic cone washer or rubber washer. Worked great. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 28, 2:41*pm, wrote:
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight connection? |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 28, 2:41*pm, wrote:
The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. Finally found the picture of what I'm talking about. I could not get my copper to pvc trap adapters to stop dripping without using this kind of nut (in copper) that comes with a copper trap adapter. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images...ltinwasher.jpg |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
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P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, lid wrote:
Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece. I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash. It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes? |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 28, 2:49*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, wrote: Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece. I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash. It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes? I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't work. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
"Joe" wrote in
: wrote in message ... The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten. What Joe is referring to: http://www.lowes.com/pd_24745-143-91...Dwasher%2Bslip |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:38:55 GMT, Red Green
wrote: "Joe" wrote in : wrote in message ... The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten. What Joe is referring to: http://www.lowes.com/pd_24745-143-91...Dwasher%2Bslip Yes and note the sizes: •Inlet: 1 1/2" •Outlet: 1 1/4" That explains why I grabbed a wrong size washer from my plumbing stash.... the washer leaked even after changing one out. Silly me. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 28, 3:40*pm, Red Green wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in news:ba2071be-36f7- : On Jan 28, 2:49*pm, Oren wrote: On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, wrote: Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece. I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash. It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes? I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't work. Topped off with roofing cement! Never thought of thatG |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:03:01 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote: I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't work. Topped off with roofing cement! Never thought of thatG Why not? Three-ply duct tape works wonders on top of the roofing tar. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
Oren wrote in news:vbm6k6d4grua2pdmupics80379hol1b946@
4ax.com: On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:03:01 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't work. Topped off with roofing cement! Never thought of thatG Why not? Three-ply duct tape works wonders on top of the roofing tar. Hmmmm.... You da man Oren. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
Oren wrote in
: On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:38:55 GMT, Red Green wrote: "Joe" wrote in : wrote in message . .. The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking. I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting. They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it. The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe. Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it? If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up. Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten. What Joe is referring to: http://www.lowes.com/pd_24745-143-91...0379&Ntt=washe r+slip&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dwashe r%2Bslip Yes and note the sizes: •Inlet: 1 1/2" •Outlet: 1 1/4" That explains why I grabbed a wrong size washer from my plumbing stash.... the washer leaked even after changing one out. Silly me. This is getting scarey. Replies on plumbing from me that actually contribute. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 28, 3:06*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight connection? Yes, it slips right out no matter how tight I make the nut. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
?
wrote in message ... On Jan 28, 3:06 pm, jamesgangnc wrote: Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight connection? Yes, it slips right out no matter how tight I make the nut. Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 29, 2:50*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. *Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. * It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
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P-trap slip joint still leaking
On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote: Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the nut? There is not much fight if things fit. Pictures? I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. -- aem sends... |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, aemeijers wrote:
On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote: Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the nut? There is not much fight if things fit. Pictures? I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. Yep. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and ....or accidentally threw it out. (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
zzzzzzzzzz wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, wrote: On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote: Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the nut? There is not much fight if things fit. Pictures? I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. Yep. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and ...or accidentally threw it out. (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious. Gmmm, Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap. Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically inclined, LOL! |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:
wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, wrote: On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote: Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the nut? There is not much fight if things fit. Pictures? I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. Yep. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and ...or accidentally threw it out. (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious. Gmmm, Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap. They do but they're also available individually. Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically inclined, LOL! Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 30, 12:34*am, "
wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote: wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, *wrote: On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed * wrote: Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. *Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. * It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the nut? *There is not much fight if things fit. Pictures? I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. Yep. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and ...or accidentally threw it out. (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. *These things are cheap and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious. Gmmm, Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap. They do but they're also available individually. Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically inclined, LOL! Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The problem is those P traps are junk quality:( I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on the fittings right before putting them together. The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks:) and the fittings still come apart easily when necessary:) |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 07:10:00 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: On Jan 30, 12:34*am, " wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote: wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, *wrote: On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed * wrote: Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. *Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. * It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the nut? *There is not much fight if things fit. Pictures? I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. Yep. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and ...or accidentally threw it out. (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. *These things are cheap and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious. Gmmm, Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap. They do but they're also available individually. Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically inclined, LOL! Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The problem is those P traps are junk quality:( I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on the fittings right before putting them together. The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks:) and the fittings still come apart easily when necessary:) I don't have problems once the parts are replaced, but your idea is interesting. Does any leftover caulk cause problems down the road? |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 29, 6:25*pm, aemeijers wrote:
I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. I think I finally got it. Running the dishwasher right now, and no drips! It took FIVE different nuts and washers to find one that would seal up. The one that finally worked was from Lowes, a metal nut with a super-soft orange washer. I tried the plastic nut with plastic washer from the kit, metal nuts with tapered rubber washers in each direction, metal nut with square rubber washer... all leaked. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
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P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 29, 8:57*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
Gmmm, Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap. Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically inclined, LOL! I bought a kit. The kit does NOT come with: 1. A nut and washer for the drain stack. 2. Tailpiece for the sink drain basket. 3. Nut and washer for the tailpiece. |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
" wrote in
: On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 07:10:00 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Jan 30, 12:34 am, " wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote: wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:25:26 -0500, wrote: On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed wrote: Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure. Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts. Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the nut? There is not much fight if things fit. Pictures? I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. Yep. I had a similar leak until I (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and ...or accidentally threw it out. (b) went out and bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap, to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try. Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious. Gmmm, Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap. They do but they're also available individually. Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically inclined, LOL! Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The problem is those P traps are junk quality:( I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on the fittings right before putting them together. The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks:) and the fittings still come apart easily when necessary:) I don't have problems once the parts are replaced, but your idea is interesting. Does any leftover caulk cause problems down the road? Another options on plastic joints a bit more serious than roofing cement. http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Rect...t-5058920.html |
P-trap slip joint still leaking
On Jan 30, 11:30*am, "
wrote: Sounds like you have a damaged part in there. *Leave it, as long as there are no leaks, but next time you go in there, replace everything. *It's cheaper than insanity. That's the thing. I DID replace everything that was replaceable. TWICE. BTW, it still leaks. Only one drop every time the sump pump runs, which is a HUGE improvement over a tablespoon. Luckily the sump pump only runs when the laundry machine drains. Once a week. I'm going to let it go a while. Hopefully with some crud and mineral deposits it will seal up. |
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