Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with siding.

Remainder of house has standard horizontal shiplap siding. I'm trying to
figure out how to attach siding to the exposed concrete sections.

Along one wall I *could* furr out the wall and attach siding to the
furring strips; there's a "bulge" there anyhow that needs to be capped
somehow.

The problem is the adjoining wall, where the existing siding appears to
be attached directly to the concrete wall. (How I don't know.) On this
section, what if a guy were to drill for anchors, then screw each board
to the concrete wall individually?

All this assumes the standard precautions: cover wall with vapor
barrier, use siding pre-primed on both sides, etc.

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?


--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

In .com,
David Nebenzahl typed:
Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of
exposed concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it
covered with siding.
Remainder of house has standard horizontal shiplap siding.
I'm trying to figure out how to attach siding to the
exposed concrete sections.
Along one wall I *could* furr out the wall and attach
siding to the furring strips; there's a "bulge" there
anyhow that needs to be capped somehow.

The problem is the adjoining wall, where the existing
siding appears to be attached directly to the concrete
wall. (How I don't know.) On this section, what if a guy
were to drill for anchors, then screw each board to the
concrete wall individually?
All this assumes the standard precautions: cover wall with
vapor barrier, use siding pre-primed on both sides, etc.

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic",
shiplap with chamfered edges to form V-grooves between
adjacent boards. (Stuff is expen$ive, I can tell you that.
And forget about redwood: ain't available any more.)

What d'you think?

Many times they use the gunpowder tools to drive fasterners into concrete.
Lots faster than drilling, drives the fastener in one shot and voila, a
ferring, 2x4 or whatever is fastened solidly when it's done right. You have
to use the right nails and gunpowder loads for the job, of course.
You'll want ear protection too; it's louder than a .22 shot.

David Nebenzahl wrote:
Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with siding.
....

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?
....

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really investigate
what was done already if it really is directly on concrete/block...

How big an area needs covering?

--

On 12/17/2010 11:28 AM dpb spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with
siding.
...

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?
...

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Shouldn't be necessary. Poured concrete. See below for dimensions.

Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really investigate
what was done already if it really is directly on concrete/block...

How big an area needs covering?

One wall: approx. 18' by one board or less (height of exposed area
varies from about 7" to about 10", and I want to leave at least 2-3"
between bottom of bottom board and the ground). This wall could be
furred, because as I said there's already a "bulge" at the top which
requires covering with a cap or some such, so the siding could sit 3/4"
out from the wall. Probably best to run furring horizontally here?

The other wall is really the problem: area to be covered is about 5'
wide by about 4' high at the highest point (ground is sloped and makes
an approximate triangle of uncovered concrete). Problem here is that the
existing siding is flush with the concrete: no furring. So if I furred
the new siding, I'd have a lot of patching and filling to do, and it'd
probably look funky.

I'd like to attach the siding directly to the concrete here. Another
poster mentioned Remington rounds for fastening; that's one way. Other
way would seem to be drilling lots and lots of holes (with hammer
drill/rotary hammer) and sticking in screw anchors, then using deck
screws to attach boards.

I have no experience with the gunpowder approach, and would have to buy
the equipment. Comments on the above attachment methods?


--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with siding.

Remainder of house has standard horizontal shiplap siding. I'm trying to
figure out how to attach siding to the exposed concrete sections.

Along one wall I *could* furr out the wall and attach siding to the
furring strips; there's a "bulge" there anyhow that needs to be capped
somehow.

The problem is the adjoining wall, where the existing siding appears to
be attached directly to the concrete wall. (How I don't know.) On this
section, what if a guy were to drill for anchors, then screw each board
to the concrete wall individually?

All this assumes the standard precautions: cover wall with vapor
barrier, use siding pre-primed on both sides, etc.

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?

I think trying to get the same style siding to transition across the two
different backings "cleanly" will be needlessly difficult. I'd suggest
considering a different treatment for the lower concrete wall, such as
brick veneer, stone face, stucco or similar, so that the transition
looks "logical".

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 12/17/2010 11:28 AM dpb spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with
siding.
...

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?
...

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Shouldn't be necessary. Poured concrete. See below for dimensions.

Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really investigate
what was done already if it really is directly on concrete/block...

How big an area needs covering?

One wall: approx. 18' by one board or less (height of exposed area
varies from about 7" to about 10", and I want to leave at least 2-3"
between bottom of bottom board and the ground). This wall could be
furred, because as I said there's already a "bulge" at the top which
requires covering with a cap or some such, so the siding could sit
3/4" out from the wall. Probably best to run furring horizontally
here?
The other wall is really the problem: area to be covered is about 5'
wide by about 4' high at the highest point (ground is sloped and makes
an approximate triangle of uncovered concrete). Problem here is that
the existing siding is flush with the concrete: no furring. So if I
furred the new siding, I'd have a lot of patching and filling to do,
and it'd probably look funky.

I'd like to attach the siding directly to the concrete here. Another
poster mentioned Remington rounds for fastening; that's one way. Other
way would seem to be drilling lots and lots of holes (with hammer
drill/rotary hammer) and sticking in screw anchors, then using deck
screws to attach boards.

I have no experience with the gunpowder approach, and would have to
buy the equipment. Comments on the above attachment methods?

i doubt you could use that method to attach thin siding. the round would
blow holes in it or massively dent it. usually you'd use these to attach
wood, which you'd then use screws through the siding.

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 12/17/2010 11:28 AM dpb spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with
siding.
...

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?
...

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Shouldn't be necessary. Poured concrete. See below for dimensions.

Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really investigate
what was done already if it really is directly on concrete/block...

How big an area needs covering?

One wall: approx. 18' by one board or less (height of exposed area varies
from about 7" to about 10", and I want to leave at least 2-3" between
bottom of bottom board and the ground). This wall could be furred, because
as I said there's already a "bulge" at the top which requires covering
with a cap or some such, so the siding could sit 3/4" out from the wall.
Probably best to run furring horizontally here?

The other wall is really the problem: area to be covered is about 5' wide
by about 4' high at the highest point (ground is sloped and makes an
approximate triangle of uncovered concrete). Problem here is that the
existing siding is flush with the concrete: no furring. So if I furred the
new siding, I'd have a lot of patching and filling to do, and it'd
probably look funky.

I'd like to attach the siding directly to the concrete here. Another
poster mentioned Remington rounds for fastening; that's one way. Other way
would seem to be drilling lots and lots of holes (with hammer drill/rotary
hammer) and sticking in screw anchors, then using deck screws to attach
boards.

I have no experience with the gunpowder approach, and would have to buy
the equipment. Comments on the above attachment methods?



It pains me to say this because of the amount of work involved but I would
use the drill, and the non-cone plastic anchors that are made for masonry.

I would then use #8 x 1.25" 1/4" HH SS with washer attached screws one
about every 16". Just snug them down no tighter than you would nail.

Unless you are a whiz at measuring this means each piece will need to held
into place to mark the screw holes, taken down, drilled and then installed.
At least it isn't a terribly large area.

A heck of a lot of work that no one will appreciate except for you but then
that is the way it goes some times.

--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

In ,
chaniarts typed:
David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 12/17/2010 11:28 AM dpb spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of
exposed concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it
covered with siding.
...

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic",
shiplap with chamfered edges to form V-grooves between
adjacent boards. (Stuff is expen$ive, I can tell you
that. And forget about redwood: ain't available any
more.) What d'you think?
...

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Shouldn't be necessary. Poured concrete. See below for
dimensions.
Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really
investigate what was done already if it really is
directly on concrete/block... How big an area needs covering?

One wall: approx. 18' by one board or less (height of
exposed area varies from about 7" to about 10", and I want
to leave at least 2-3" between bottom of bottom board and
the ground). This wall could be furred, because as I said
there's already a "bulge" at the top which requires
covering with a cap or some such, so the siding could sit
3/4" out from the wall. Probably best to run furring
horizontally here? The other wall is really the problem: area to be
covered
is about 5' wide by about 4' high at the highest point
(ground is sloped and makes an approximate triangle of
uncovered concrete). Problem here is that the existing
siding is flush with the concrete: no furring. So if I
furred the new siding, I'd have a lot of patching and
filling to do, and it'd probably look funky. I'd like to attach the
siding directly to the concrete
here. Another poster mentioned Remington rounds for
fastening; that's one way. Other way would seem to be
drilling lots and lots of holes (with hammer drill/rotary
hammer) and sticking in screw anchors, then using deck
screws to attach boards. I have no experience with the gunpowder
approach, and
would have to buy the equipment. Comments on the above
attachment methods?

i doubt you could use that method to attach thin siding.
the round would blow holes in it or massively dent it.
usually you'd use these to attach wood, which you'd then
use screws through the siding.

Woof, you don't apply siding with it! You apply an attachment surface
(strips of wood) FOR the siding with it. You can get the manual type where
you load the powder and then whack the top of it with hammer; works well for
a one time job. The fully auto types are expensive and overkill for a one
time job.

HTH,

Twayne`

Twayne wrote:
....
Woof, you don't apply siding with it! You apply an attachment surface
(strips of wood) FOR the siding with it. ...

OP said did _NOT_ want to fur it out...

--

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 12/17/2010 11:28 AM dpb spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with
siding.
...

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?
...

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Shouldn't be necessary. Poured concrete. See below for dimensions.

Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really investigate
what was done already if it really is directly on concrete/block...

How big an area needs covering?

One wall: approx. 18' by one board or less (height of exposed area
varies from about 7" to about 10", and I want to leave at least 2-3"
between bottom of bottom board and the ground). This wall could be
furred, because as I said there's already a "bulge" at the top which
requires covering with a cap or some such, so the siding could sit 3/4"
out from the wall. Probably best to run furring horizontally here?

The other wall is really the problem: area to be covered is about 5'
wide by about 4' high at the highest point (ground is sloped and makes
an approximate triangle of uncovered concrete). Problem here is that the
existing siding is flush with the concrete: no furring. So if I furred
the new siding, I'd have a lot of patching and filling to do, and it'd
probably look funky.

I'd like to attach the siding directly to the concrete here. Another
poster mentioned Remington rounds for fastening; that's one way. Other
way would seem to be drilling lots and lots of holes (with hammer
drill/rotary hammer) and sticking in screw anchors, then using deck
screws to attach boards.

I have no experience with the gunpowder approach, and would have to buy
the equipment. Comments on the above attachment methods?

The one side that's only got a minimum of space already I'd suggest
better to leave. Paint a matching or contrasting color instead. That's
too close to the ground when add another for two reasons--termites and
ground water and rain splash.

The other, I'd strongly consider just construction adhesive or similar
w/ an occasional fastener.

The powder loads won't work well w/ siding--they would require a washer
to prevent driving thru the siding in all likelihood.

As another said, a contrasting treatment would be simpler given the
description as I envision it.

--

Twayne wrote:

In ,
chaniarts typed:
David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 12/17/2010 11:28 AM dpb spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of
exposed concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it
covered with siding.
...

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic",
shiplap with chamfered edges to form V-grooves between
adjacent boards. (Stuff is expen$ive, I can tell you
that. And forget about redwood: ain't available any
more.) What d'you think?
...

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Shouldn't be necessary. Poured concrete. See below for
dimensions.
Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really
investigate what was done already if it really is
directly on concrete/block... How big an area needs covering?

One wall: approx. 18' by one board or less (height of
exposed area varies from about 7" to about 10", and I want
to leave at least 2-3" between bottom of bottom board and
the ground). This wall could be furred, because as I said
there's already a "bulge" at the top which requires
covering with a cap or some such, so the siding could sit
3/4" out from the wall. Probably best to run furring
horizontally here? The other wall is really the problem: area to be
covered
is about 5' wide by about 4' high at the highest point
(ground is sloped and makes an approximate triangle of
uncovered concrete). Problem here is that the existing
siding is flush with the concrete: no furring. So if I
furred the new siding, I'd have a lot of patching and
filling to do, and it'd probably look funky. I'd like to attach the
siding directly to the concrete
here. Another poster mentioned Remington rounds for
fastening; that's one way. Other way would seem to be
drilling lots and lots of holes (with hammer drill/rotary
hammer) and sticking in screw anchors, then using deck
screws to attach boards. I have no experience with the gunpowder
approach, and
would have to buy the equipment. Comments on the above
attachment methods?

i doubt you could use that method to attach thin siding.
the round would blow holes in it or massively dent it.
usually you'd use these to attach wood, which you'd then
use screws through the siding.

Woof, you don't apply siding with it! You apply an attachment surface
(strips of wood) FOR the siding with it. You can get the manual type where
you load the powder and then whack the top of it with hammer; works well for
a one time job. The fully auto types are expensive and overkill for a one
time job.

HTH,

Twayne`

If you're trying to apply relatively thin furring strips to concrete *do
not* attempt it with one of the basic .22 powder actuated nailers, they
will not give you adequate depth control to avoid setting the pin too
deep in the wood where it looses strength. Rent something like a Hilti
DX36M (Depot rents them) which has a pressure adjustment to give you
finer setting control than the coarse color coded blanks. These guns
also have color coded loads, but the pressure control allows you to dial
a load down to a lower pressure, i.e. if a green load doesn't set the
pin deep enough you can switch to a yellow load and if that sets the pin
too deep at full power you can dial it down to a "green and a half" to
get the right setting depth.

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

The problem is the adjoining wall, where the existing siding appears to be
attached directly to the concrete wall. (How I don't know.) On this
section, what if a guy were to drill for anchors, then screw each board to
the concrete wall individually?


What d'you think?

I think I'd walk away from it. Furring strips OKK, but direct attachment
would be very time consuming.

On 12/17/2010 7:49 PM Ed Pawlowski spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

The problem is the adjoining wall, where the existing siding
appears to be attached directly to the concrete wall. (How I don't
know.) On this section, what if a guy were to drill for anchors,
then screw each board to the concrete wall individually?

What d'you think?

I think I'd walk away from it. Furring strips OKK, but direct attachment
would be very time consuming.

Walking away from it is certainly a distinct possibility in this case.

But supposing just for laughs that the homeowner really wants siding put
up there, what would be the best way to do it, assuming some other poor
sap gets to do it?


--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

I think I'd walk away from it. Furring strips OKK, but direct attachment
would be very time consuming.

Walking away from it is certainly a distinct possibility in this case.

But supposing just for laughs that the homeowner really wants siding put
up there, what would be the best way to do it, assuming some other poor
sap gets to do it?


I'd consider a couple of drilled in anchors and a urethane adhesive. I'd
used it for fake stone and it works well, maybe would be the thing for
siding.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:37:59 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:
All this assumes the standard precautions: cover wall with vapor
barrier, use siding pre-primed on both sides, etc.

And unless you are in an area with absolutely no termites, or the
house contains no wood (even in the rafters), make sure you do not
cover all of the surface where the termites will build their tubes.

Edward