"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 12/17/2010 11:28 AM dpb spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Problem: homeowner's house has a large unclad section of exposed
concrete foundation/wall at bottom. He'd like it covered with
siding.
...

Siding is 1x8, what the local yards call "V-rustic", shiplap with
chamfered edges to form V-grooves between adjacent boards. (Stuff is
expen$ive, I can tell you that. And forget about redwood: ain't
available any more.)

What d'you think?
...

Pichurs'd be nice...what kind of wall--block, poured, ???

Shouldn't be necessary. Poured concrete. See below for dimensions.

Furring it out would be first choice methinks; I'd really investigate
what was done already if it really is directly on concrete/block...

How big an area needs covering?

One wall: approx. 18' by one board or less (height of exposed area varies
from about 7" to about 10", and I want to leave at least 2-3" between
bottom of bottom board and the ground). This wall could be furred, because
as I said there's already a "bulge" at the top which requires covering
with a cap or some such, so the siding could sit 3/4" out from the wall.
Probably best to run furring horizontally here?

The other wall is really the problem: area to be covered is about 5' wide
by about 4' high at the highest point (ground is sloped and makes an
approximate triangle of uncovered concrete). Problem here is that the
existing siding is flush with the concrete: no furring. So if I furred the
new siding, I'd have a lot of patching and filling to do, and it'd
probably look funky.

I'd like to attach the siding directly to the concrete here. Another
poster mentioned Remington rounds for fastening; that's one way. Other way
would seem to be drilling lots and lots of holes (with hammer drill/rotary
hammer) and sticking in screw anchors, then using deck screws to attach
boards.

I have no experience with the gunpowder approach, and would have to buy
the equipment. Comments on the above attachment methods?



It pains me to say this because of the amount of work involved but I would
use the drill, and the non-cone plastic anchors that are made for masonry.

I would then use #8 x 1.25" 1/4" HH SS with washer attached screws one
about every 16". Just snug them down no tighter than you would nail.

Unless you are a whiz at measuring this means each piece will need to held
into place to mark the screw holes, taken down, drilled and then installed.
At least it isn't a terribly large area.

A heck of a lot of work that no one will appreciate except for you but then
that is the way it goes some times.

--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com