I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower, body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

I reccomend you:

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those
are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like
this:

In article ,
"MiamiCuse" wrote:

Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower, body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC


A plastic wall anchor with a #8 or #10 screw should be plenty for that.

Well.... either smaller Tapcons, or enlarge the holes.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those
are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like
this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small
holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to
move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand
shower, body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these
holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an
obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in news:ickdim
:

I reccomend you:



Well, I am certainly flattered. Thanks.


--
Tegger

Have your people contact my people. I'll have your reccomendation
bronzed, and

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tegger" wrote in message
...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
news:ickdim
:

I reccomend you:



Well, I am certainly flattered. Thanks.


--
Tegger

On Nov 24, 5:03*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. *Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes..
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower, body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? *I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Those drop ear elbows are designed to be screwed to wood.
Typically, I drill the holes out to 3/16" & use #10 SS sheet metal
screws.

In your situation, I'd use brass machine screws (~1-1/4" to 1-1/2")
with double nuts to create little headed mounting studs..

Drill holes in the blocks including recesses to accept the nuts on the
back side of the drop ear elbow.
Use SIKA Anchorfix #1 (Fast set ~5 min gel, 1hr cure) to attach the
whole assembly.

cheers
Bob

On Nov 24, 8:03*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. *Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes..
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower, body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? *I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC



Well clearly the TAPCON screws that you currently have available to
you are too large to fit into the provided holes in the fitting you
need to
attach, so you either need to find TAPCON screws which will fit the
holes you need them to pass through (as miraculous as it sounds
they are available in MANY sizes), OR you need to obtain normal
screws and the appropriate plastic anchors which will allow them to
be used in a concrete block wall...

It isn't rocket science -- you frequently post these odd ball
questions
about the most simple aspects of a more complicated project...
This is the sort of stuff that diverges from the "ah, i can see how it
is designed to work together" engineering aspect to the "how do
i attach this contraption to the rest of what all is there" practical
installation experience...

If you don't know how to attach the fitting to a concrete block wall
then even if you know how to solder the copper pipes, you shouldn't
be doing this work -- pay someone who has done the job before to
do it for you, keep your mouth shut and your eyes open while they
do the work and you can learn the legitimate way -- by paying
a person who does the work for a living to show you how...

~~ Evan

On Nov 24, 7:03*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. *Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes..
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower, body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? *I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.

Joe

"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Nov 24, 8:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower,
body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC



Well clearly the TAPCON screws that you currently have available to
you are too large to fit into the provided holes in the fitting you
need to
attach, so you either need to find TAPCON screws which will fit the
holes you need them to pass through (as miraculous as it sounds
they are available in MANY sizes),
Home Depot only carries 3/16" and 1/4" and bigger. I could not find one
that has a small enough shaft to fit into these fitting holes, that's why I
asked. I have all sizes I could find. Please point me to a source with a
smaller then 3/16" sizes.
OR you need to obtain normal
screws and the appropriate plastic anchors which will allow them to
be used in a concrete block wall...
Plastic anchors does not work for me, not good enough, I considered it but
not comfortable with it.

It isn't rocket science -- you frequently post these odd ball
questions
about the most simple aspects of a more complicated project...
This is the sort of stuff that diverges from the "ah, i can see how it
is designed to work together" engineering aspect to the "how do
i attach this contraption to the rest of what all is there" practical
installation experience...
I usually don't have problems with the more complicated aspects as I
research and execute them. The simple aspects is where I may look for help
here as someone may know off hand. Complex issues are not appropriate in
forums of this nature.

If you don't know how to attach the fitting to a concrete block wall
then even if you know how to solder the copper pipes, you shouldn't
be doing this work -- pay someone who has done the job before to
do it for you, keep your mouth shut and your eyes open while they
do the work and you can learn the legitimate way -- by paying
a person who does the work for a living to show you how...
I did pay pros to do my work. I ripped them out due to inferior
workmanship. I learned a lot of what NOT to do by observing pros, or people
who pretend they are pros. I would not have to do this if they did their
job right in the first place.

~~ Evan

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Nov 24, 7:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower,
body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.

Joe

Ahh this is what I was looking for, thanks a bunch!

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Nov 24, 7:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like
this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small
holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to
move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower,
body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.

Joe

Ahh this is what I was looking for, thanks a bunch!



The Tapcons with the 1/4" hex heads will go through 95% of the holes that a
#8 screw will so maybe the person who said you needed smaller Tapcons was
correct.

"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Nov 24, 7:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like
this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small
holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to
move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower,
body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these
holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an
obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.

Joe

Ahh this is what I was looking for, thanks a bunch!



The Tapcons with the 1/4" hex heads will go through 95% of the holes that
a #8 screw will so maybe the person who said you needed smaller Tapcons
was correct.


3/16" Tapcons will not go through those holes and those are the smallest I
can find, also checked with this website:

http://www.concretescrews.com/tapcon...rd-tapcon.aspx

and they don't seem to indicate there is a smaller size then 3/16" either.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Nov 24, 7:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like
this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small
holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to
move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower,
body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these
holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an
obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.

Joe

Ahh this is what I was looking for, thanks a bunch!



The Tapcons with the 1/4" hex heads will go through 95% of the holes that
a #8 screw will so maybe the person who said you needed smaller Tapcons
was correct.


3/16" Tapcons will not go through those holes and those are the smallest I
can find, also checked with this website:

http://www.concretescrews.com/tapcon...rd-tapcon.aspx

and they don't seem to indicate there is a smaller size then 3/16" either.


Then use this product with a #8 screw that is least 1.5" long.

http://www.heavydutystore.com/powers...-pr-20248.html

I know Ace sell them and I think Lowes does.



I use the red one with #6 or #8 HH screws. Hung a lot of heavy blinds and
drapes. Never had a callback.

On Nov 25, 10:43*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote in message

m...



"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news

"Joe" wrote in message
....
On Nov 24, 7:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like
this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small
holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to
move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower,
body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these
holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an
obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.

Joe

Ahh this is what I was looking for, *thanks a bunch!

The Tapcons with the 1/4" hex heads will go through 95% of the holes that
a #8 screw will so maybe the person who said you needed smaller Tapcons
was correct.

3/16" Tapcons will not go through those holes and those are the smallest I
can find, also checked with this website:

http://www.concretescrews.com/tapcon...rd-tapcon.aspx

and they don't seem to indicate there is a smaller size then 3/16" either..


OK...

If you CAN NOT find any TAPCONS that will fit through your hole, then
make the hole larger with a drill and a bench vise...

In this case you really are showing your inexperience -- I have never
had
a problem getting a TAPCON through holes that were a little small
using
a REAL electric hammer-drill to install them...

If you were unable to figure out that you can safely enlarge the holes
on
that fitting then again, you should not be the one to be installing it
as it
is beyond your ability to install... Sometimes looking at a situation
to
look for the simplest solution to make it work is better than trying
to
find what you think you need...

Your other comments about workmanship are really bogus -- you are
a critic of all the trades and a master of none... Do you really
think
that the fitting will fall out if you install it with a normal screw
and
a plastic anchor made for concrete block ? Really, what with the
fact that it will soon be braced in place with the shower head you
screw into it... As far as you not being able to "get a piece of
strapping in behind the fitting" to help you attach it, you are really
showing your utter lack of woodworking ability and imagination if
you can not figure out how to cut away material on a piece of
wood so that it can brace a plumbing fitting without sticking
out of the wall too far...

This is where the guy who has done this sort of thing hundreds
of times, whose job you find "substandard" has over you, they
know that it doesn't have to support thousands of pounds -- it
just has to stay where it is put without falling out...

~~ Evan

"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Nov 25, 10:43 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote in message

m...



"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Nov 24, 7:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
Sorry last post was truncated...

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those
are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like
this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small
holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to
move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand
shower,
body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these
holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an
obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.

Joe

Ahh this is what I was looking for, thanks a bunch!

The Tapcons with the 1/4" hex heads will go through 95% of the holes
that
a #8 screw will so maybe the person who said you needed smaller Tapcons
was correct.

3/16" Tapcons will not go through those holes and those are the smallest I
can find, also checked with this website:

http://www.concretescrews.com/tapcon...rd-tapcon.aspx

and they don't seem to indicate there is a smaller size then 3/16" either.


OK...

If you CAN NOT find any TAPCONS that will fit through your hole, then
make the hole larger with a drill and a bench vise...

That was one of the options, I choose not to do it yet because I have about
half a dozen of these drop ear 90s to attach to concrete block walls and
that's why I came here looking for opinions. That does not mean I am
clueless as to what I do, I simply want to see what others suggest and
sometimes someone would say something that might not have occured to me.

In this case you really are showing your inexperience -- I have never
had
a problem getting a TAPCON through holes that were a little small
using
a REAL electric hammer-drill to install them...

Again, that is my chose not to enlarge those cast brass holes unless I had
to.

If you were unable to figure out that you can safely enlarge the holes
on
that fitting then again, you should not be the one to be installing it
as it
is beyond your ability to install... Sometimes looking at a situation
to
look for the simplest solution to make it work is better than trying
to
find what you think you need...

Anyone here asking any question is either asking for opinion to supplement
their own, or they are looking for help.

Your other comments about workmanship are really bogus -- you are
a critic of all the trades and a master of none... Do you really
think

I admit I am master of none. Does not bother me. That's why I come here to
ask for help some times.

that the fitting will fall out if you install it with a normal screw
and
a plastic anchor made for concrete block ? Really, what with the
fact that it will soon be braced in place with the shower head you
screw into it...

Again, taking a simple question and formulated your own assumptions into it
and making a judgement. No one says the fitting will "fall out", the
fitting is a cast brass fitting soldered onto copper pipes. Since it is a
female threaded fitting and will be receive a nipple connection, the force
it will be subjected to will be torque, the two screws are supposed to hold
it in place for that purpose. I don't want to use plastic anchors, that's
as simple as that.

As far as you not being able to "get a piece of
strapping in behind the fitting" to help you attach it, you are really
showing your utter lack of woodworking ability and imagination if
you can not figure out how to cut away material on a piece of
wood so that it can brace a plumbing fitting without sticking
out of the wall too far...

There is no wood involved. This is a set of valves and fittings attached to
concrete block walls. If it's wood backing I wouldn't be asking these
questions. The shower valve has a set minimum and maximum thickness and in
considerations on all the parameters I placed the outlets where they are.
To insert wood behind them would have caused the valve to protrude too much,
that's why I recessed the valve into the block wall.

This is where the guy who has done this sort of thing hundreds
of times, whose job you find "substandard" has over you, they
know that it doesn't have to support thousands of pounds -- it
just has to stay where it is put without falling out...

Again, you are assuming things about situations you know absolutely nothing
about. Yes I hired an AC pro who have installed hundreds of AC units in the
attic and he ended up cutting two of my trusses to accommodate the
replacement after I told him to find a similar size unit. I hired a
plumbing company to relocate my DWV system and they end up sending
completely twisted my 3/4" soft copper line, and put sleeves over it to
conceal the kink and twist, then they ran a 2" PVC vent line right across
the opening of my existing attic access door etc etc etc...so Yes, I am
doing a much better job then they are.

You are making baseless assumptions on why I asked what I asked based on
your own limited imagination, short sighted extrapolations and biased
subjectivity. Thank you very much. You shall have the last word on this if
you wish, if it makes you feel better and superior, I am glad.
~~ Evan

On Nov 27, 8:01*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:


You are making baseless assumptions on why I asked what I asked based on
your own limited imagination, short sighted extrapolations and biased
subjectivity. *Thank you very much. *You shall have the last word on this if
you wish, if it makes you feel better and superior, I am glad.

Baseless ?

We covered this before where you admitted you were an overthinking
engineer "DIY" helicopter type client when you actually DO open your
wallet and hire a tradesman to do some sort of repair work on your
property -- case else you come here or another select few UseNet
groups and post asinine questions that taken collectively over your
entire posting history here really indicate that you OVERTHINK
your projects and lack "the basics" and really should leave any work
you need done to a professional... Yet we both know you nit-pick
them to death when you do hire a professional and are one of those
assholes who calls multiple companies to see who will get to you
first...

So my comments on your skill level and what sort of questions
you have asked and my judgments based on the same are not
baseless -- they are constructed upon an understanding of your
continued postings here on UseNet which indicate you may
possess knowledge of the theory of how building systems work
let lack even a basic practical knowledge of how to go about
doing the most simple projects without needing "baby steps"
directions, clarifications on terminology or help with choosing
an installation method...

~~ Evan

"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Nov 27, 8:01 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:


You are making baseless assumptions on why I asked what I asked based on
your own limited imagination, short sighted extrapolations and biased
subjectivity. Thank you very much. You shall have the last word on this
if
you wish, if it makes you feel better and superior, I am glad.

Baseless ?

Yes baseless, see below.

We covered this before where you admitted you were an overthinking
engineer "DIY" helicopter type client when you actually DO open your
wallet and hire a tradesman to do some sort of repair work on your
property -- case else you come here or another select few UseNet
groups and post asinine questions that taken collectively over your
entire posting history here really indicate that you OVERTHINK
your projects and lack "the basics" and really should leave any work
you need done to a professional... Yet we both know you nit-pick
them to death when you do hire a professional and are one of those
assholes who calls multiple companies to see who will get to you
first...

Resorting to name calling by calling me an "asshole" only result in labeling
yourself as one.
If you had paid any attention to previous posts I made here, then you would
have realized I am the exact opposite of what you described above.
Nit-pick, overthinking, may be, guilty as charged. Call multiple companies
to see who gets to me first, never done that. If any, I go above and beyond
to treat people with respect, and anything that I do "nitpick" I write into
the contract and explain ahead of time why I wanted things done a certain
way, and give the contractor a chance to override if he wants to do it a
different way before signing. Yet I kept getting beat up on inferior
workmanship. No, this is not subjective, this is undisputable fact, as I
have indicated previously via my previous threads.

Hired a demolition company to demolish walls and ceiling including removal,
dumpster and haul away. They end up removing everything except they left
screws and staples on every wood stud and joists every 12". They claimed
removal of walls and ceilings does not include removal of fasteners to them.
Hired a plumber to relocate DWV and copper manifolds and end up cross
connecting the cold and hot water, turing my water heater into a dead end
system. During soldering completely melted my alarm system wires and set
fiberglass insulation on fire and would have spread to the attic if it were
not for the fire stop. Routed a 2" PVC vent into my attic and crossed right
over my attic access hole, completely cut away a load bearing wall top
plate.
Hired an AC guy to replace unit in attic, instructed to measure carefully
and get replacement unit that fit in the same space. Advised to call if
unit cannot be moved in place if truss are in the way. Called me to inform
me he finished installation by cutting away two cross members of my trusses.
Hired a plumber to jet clean my cast iron waste line, waste line being 3" in
size and he had a 4" head. Told him he should go back and get a 3" head, he
didn't listen and used a 4" head and said "it should be ok", 20 minutes
later he got his 4" head stuck in a 90 elbow. Could not move forward, could
not move backward. Push, pull for a good hour and finally gave up. I had
to make arrangements to cut my concrete slab to open a trench to access the
elbow and cut it away to retrieve the head.

I can go on and on. This is hardly nitpicking. This is complete erosion of
pride of workmanship, and bad habit of pushing work to a "downstream" trade,
and it has gotten worse and worse with time.

I don't want to continue this argument. This is a help forum, you either
help people or you don't. If it makes you feel better by being
condescending and talking down, then by all means, I am out.

So my comments on your skill level and what sort of questions
you have asked and my judgments based on the same are not
baseless -- they are constructed upon an understanding of your
continued postings here on UseNet which indicate you may
possess knowledge of the theory of how building systems work
let lack even a basic practical knowledge of how to go about
doing the most simple projects without needing "baby steps"
directions, clarifications on terminology or help with choosing
an installation method...

~~ Evan

On 11/25/2010 4:22 PM MiamiCuse spake thus:

"Evan" wrote in message
...

On Nov 24, 8:03 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:

I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls.
Those are "drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines
that look like this:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop%20ear%2090.jpg

Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when
these holes are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if
there is an obvious answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.

[snip]

OR you need to obtain normal screws and the appropriate plastic
anchors which will allow them to be used in a concrete block
wall...

Plastic anchors does not work for me, not good enough, I considered
it but not comfortable with it.

I'll give you the same advice Evan gave, minus his nasty editorial
remarks: Use screws and plastic wall anchors.

If you're not comfortable with these, then get comfortable with them.
They'll hold that plumbing in place plenty well.

If you don't like the plastic anchors, you could always use metal ones.
(Can you still get those old-school lead anchors?)


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Nov 28, 9:19*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:


I don't want to continue this argument. *This is a help forum, you either
help people or you don't. *If it makes you feel better by being
condescending and talking down, then by all means, I am out.


Argument ? No... Calling out foolishness that has been well
demonstrated over time -- Yes...

I mean have you ever gone back and read your own questions
to see just how "out there" some of them are ?

Yet you are able to gripe about past projects and weird mistakes
that trades workers have made yet you are totally OCD'ing on
how to screw a plumbing fitting to a concrete block wall...

Pot -- meet kettle... Plain and simple man...

You can't claim that your posting history doesn't exist, period...

That is not an argument...

~~ Evan