I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

"MikeA" wrote in message
...
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

You can't use a cut in box as it's only good for six pounds. What you can
use will depend upon where the studs are, and if there is a vent pipe
between them. A retrofit fan box may work, but you won't be able to fit it
into a 2x4 wall without cutting it open. If there is a stud where you want
to mount the fixture you can use a pancake box.

On 10/25/2010 7:15 PM MikeA spake thus:

I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?

Walls plaster? drywall? Makes a difference; let us know.

For devices like switches and outlets, I like to use the "old work" type
of metal box that has the two ears on the sides that are tightened by
screws (but not the type that has the ears that get "squashed"). Now,
these are rectangular and normally not suitable for light fixtures,
which like to use round or octagonal boxes. But I wonder if the light
couldn't be attached to one of these boxes with a crossbar.

Anyhow, 10 lbs. isn't all that much. In a plaster wall, I'd think that a
tabbed box in a carefully cut hole ought to be sufficient.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Oct 25, 7:15*pm, MikeA wrote:
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

Just make sure all the conductors (wires) are tucked neatly in the
“replacement box that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud” and make sure that the fixture is somehow
securely screwed or bolted to a stud so it doesn’t come off the wall
and start the fireworks.

On Oct 25, 10:15*pm, MikeA wrote:
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

You can get a small pancake box that fits inside your fixture, install
a cable clamp on it if you get the kind with knockout holes only, and
attach it to the wall with wall anchors.
It is really no big deal though, just make sure you make a good solid
connection with the wires, seal it as best you can with electrical
tape and you can just attach it to the wall with any means available.
Roy Q T.
E.E. Technician

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:33:21 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"MikeA" wrote in message
...
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

You can't use a cut in box as it's only good for six pounds. What you can
use will depend upon where the studs are, and if there is a vent pipe
between them. A retrofit fan box may work, but you won't be able to fit it
into a 2x4 wall without cutting it open. If there is a stud where you want
to mount the fixture you can use a pancake box.


I bought a fan box the other day at HD or Lowes that would work in a
2x4 wall (although 2x6 walls are common in bathrooms, just for the
plumbing).
This thing had a square member on one end and a screw going through it
for the other end. The box bolts on after you get it tight so you
could get it in the wall. (tie a string on it so you don't drop it and
lose it forever)
A vent stack may still be a problem.


How do you get the 12" bar into the 3 1/2" deep wall through a 4" round
hole?

On Oct 26, 6:39 am, "RBM" wrote:
wrote in message

...



On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:33:21 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"MikeA" wrote in message
...
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

You can't use a cut in box as it's only good for six pounds. What you can
use will depend upon where the studs are, and if there is a vent pipe
between them. A retrofit fan box may work, but you won't be able to fit it
into a 2x4 wall without cutting it open. If there is a stud where you want
to mount the fixture you can use a pancake box.

I bought a fan box the other day at HD or Lowes that would work in a
2x4 wall (although 2x6 walls are common in bathrooms, just for the
plumbing).
This thing had a square member on one end and a screw going through it
for the other end. The box bolts on after you get it tight so you
could get it in the wall. (tie a string on it so you don't drop it and
lose it forever)
A vent stack may still be a problem.

How do you get the 12" bar into the 3 1/2" deep wall through a 4" round
hole?

Depends where the hole is, no? If it's in the center, then it's
probably a problem. Some of the extension bars can be disassembled,
fed through the hole and reassembled. Pain in the ass, but it's
doable.

But I wouldn't go that route. Cut a strip of 1/2" plywood blocking
slightly narrower than the hole, put construction adhesive on the ends
where the blocking will touch the inside of the drywall/plaster, feed
the strip through the hole, and a few screws through the drywall/
plaster into the ends of the blocking on either side of the hole. If
the fixture won't cover all of blocking and the screw heads, place
another temporary piece of blocking on the outside and screw the two
pieces of blocking together through the cutout hole to hold the inside
piece in place until the construction adhesive sets up. The inside
piece of blocking should have a hole drilled where the wire will poke
through into the back of the pancake box.

R

Thanks to everybody for the advice. I appreciate it. I'm heading to
home depot today and I'll let you know what I end up doing.
Thanks

On 10/26/2010 6:39 AM, RBM wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:33:21 -0400, wrote:


wrote in message
...
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

You can't use a cut in box as it's only good for six pounds. What you can
use will depend upon where the studs are, and if there is a vent pipe
between them. A retrofit fan box may work, but you won't be able to fit it
into a 2x4 wall without cutting it open. If there is a stud where you want
to mount the fixture you can use a pancake box.


I bought a fan box the other day at HD or Lowes that would work in a
2x4 wall (although 2x6 walls are common in bathrooms, just for the
plumbing).
This thing had a square member on one end and a screw going through it
for the other end. The box bolts on after you get it tight so you
could get it in the wall. (tie a string on it so you don't drop it and
lose it forever)
A vent stack may still be a problem.


How do you get the 12" bar into the 3 1/2" deep wall through a 4" round
hole?



Very carefully, which is why he mentioned the string. It isn't 12" long
when you start- you extend it once it is in the wall. Skinny fingers and
a 3rd hand help.

I'd be inclined to mount the light on a decorative piece of hardwood,
finished to match the other trim in the bathroom, burying a pancake box
in it if needed.

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
On 10/26/2010 6:39 AM, RBM wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:33:21 -0400, wrote:


wrote in message
...
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike

You can't use a cut in box as it's only good for six pounds. What you
can
use will depend upon where the studs are, and if there is a vent pipe
between them. A retrofit fan box may work, but you won't be able to fit
it
into a 2x4 wall without cutting it open. If there is a stud where you
want
to mount the fixture you can use a pancake box.


I bought a fan box the other day at HD or Lowes that would work in a
2x4 wall (although 2x6 walls are common in bathrooms, just for the
plumbing).
This thing had a square member on one end and a screw going through it
for the other end. The box bolts on after you get it tight so you
could get it in the wall. (tie a string on it so you don't drop it and
lose it forever)
A vent stack may still be a problem.


How do you get the 12" bar into the 3 1/2" deep wall through a 4" round
hole?



Very carefully, which is why he mentioned the string. It isn't 12" long
when you start- you extend it once it is in the wall. Skinny fingers and a
3rd hand help.

I'd be inclined to mount the light on a decorative piece of hardwood,
finished to match the other trim in the bathroom, burying a pancake box in
it if needed.

--
aem sends...

Unless it's something that I've not seen before, it is 12" long when you
start. Typical retrofit fan box extends to 24", so it starts out at 12".