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RicodJour RicodJour is offline
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Default Replace bathroom light with no junction box

On Oct 26, 6:39 am, "RBM" wrote:
wrote in message

...



On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:33:21 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"MikeA" wrote in message
...
I removed my old bathroom light and there was no box. The wires were
just fed through a hole in the wall. I have a new light fixture that
requires being mounted to a box and weighs about 10 pounds.
Can I just use one of those replacement boxes that has the tabs and is
not mounted to a stud? Or do I need to mount a box to a stud (any
hints on doing this and not tearing up my wall too much would be
appreciated)? I guess another option is to use one of those fan boxes
that usually go in the ceiling but use it between two studs instead?
Thanks in advance
Mike


You can't use a cut in box as it's only good for six pounds. What you can
use will depend upon where the studs are, and if there is a vent pipe
between them. A retrofit fan box may work, but you won't be able to fit it
into a 2x4 wall without cutting it open. If there is a stud where you want
to mount the fixture you can use a pancake box.


I bought a fan box the other day at HD or Lowes that would work in a
2x4 wall (although 2x6 walls are common in bathrooms, just for the
plumbing).
This thing had a square member on one end and a screw going through it
for the other end. The box bolts on after you get it tight so you
could get it in the wall. (tie a string on it so you don't drop it and
lose it forever)
A vent stack may still be a problem.


How do you get the 12" bar into the 3 1/2" deep wall through a 4" round
hole?


Depends where the hole is, no? If it's in the center, then it's
probably a problem. Some of the extension bars can be disassembled,
fed through the hole and reassembled. Pain in the ass, but it's
doable.

But I wouldn't go that route. Cut a strip of 1/2" plywood blocking
slightly narrower than the hole, put construction adhesive on the ends
where the blocking will touch the inside of the drywall/plaster, feed
the strip through the hole, and a few screws through the drywall/
plaster into the ends of the blocking on either side of the hole. If
the fixture won't cover all of blocking and the screw heads, place
another temporary piece of blocking on the outside and screw the two
pieces of blocking together through the cutout hole to hold the inside
piece in place until the construction adhesive sets up. The inside
piece of blocking should have a hole drilled where the wire will poke
through into the back of the pancake box.

R