Thanks all for the suggestions. I did follow them and assured that
there is a good 122 VAC arriving at the connection box. The
connection to the DW wires are clean and secure (now). But, still no
power to the machine.

Before I pull the unit out and/or disassemble the entire door looking
for interlock switches, I find it strange that thereiare NO led's that
will illuminate.

This model has a long row of touch pads along the top edge of the door
to select cycles and options. When selected the little led turns red.
Once the door is closed there are two touch pads on the front face: a
start and a cancel.

Again, it appears that the entire unit is without power so if the feed
is verified then is there a major switch of some sorts early in the
circuitry such as an internal breaker, thermisor, etc?

I can't even locate a pdf of this unit online but there was a
schematic behind the access panel whihk appears to have timer cycles,
etc.

So I tough I would ask if anyone had/has experience with the series
(665.15954 - made by Whirlpool) that may have run across this
situation before. With the economy I really don't wish to call a
repairman for obvious reasons (sorry all repairmen) 'cause the unit is
about 10 years old.

Thanks

On 8/15/2010 11:12 AM, bobmct wrote:
Thanks all for the suggestions. I did follow them and assured that
there is a good 122 VAC arriving at the connection box. The
connection to the DW wires are clean and secure (now). But, still no
power to the machine.

Before I pull the unit out and/or disassemble the entire door looking
for interlock switches, I find it strange that thereiare NO led's that
will illuminate.

This model has a long row of touch pads along the top edge of the door
to select cycles and options. When selected the little led turns red.
Once the door is closed there are two touch pads on the front face: a
start and a cancel.

Again, it appears that the entire unit is without power so if the feed
is verified then is there a major switch of some sorts early in the
circuitry such as an internal breaker, thermisor, etc?

I can't even locate a pdf of this unit online but there was a
schematic behind the access panel whihk appears to have timer cycles,
etc.


You are going to have to disassemble to fix it it anyways, so go ahead
(assuming you won't call a repairman later).
It's been a while since I've been to a Sears Repair Center, but they
used to have microfiche of all their products. Generally appliance do
have a schematic on them, take another look at it. Sometimes you can
find repair manuals at your local repair parts center.

I'm not an appliance repairman, so my suggestions are far from gospel.

What I would do, if I had nothing, is to trace the power back from
the plug.

As with all repairs, it's best to actually trace and test than to
randomly replace.

Jeff


So I tough I would ask if anyone had/has experience with the series
(665.15954 - made by Whirlpool) that may have run across this
situation before. With the economy I really don't wish to call a
repairman for obvious reasons (sorry all repairmen) 'cause the unit is
about 10 years old.

Thanks

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Thanks all for the suggestions. I did follow them and assured that
there is a good 122 VAC arriving at the connection box. The
connection to the DW wires are clean and secure (now). But, still no
power to the machine.

Before I pull the unit out and/or disassemble the entire door looking
for interlock switches, I find it strange that thereiare NO led's that
will illuminate.

This model has a long row of touch pads along the top edge of the door
to select cycles and options. When selected the little led turns red.
Once the door is closed there are two touch pads on the front face: a
start and a cancel.

Again, it appears that the entire unit is without power so if the feed
is verified then is there a major switch of some sorts early in the
circuitry such as an internal breaker, thermisor, etc?

Thanks

I snooped around a bit out of curiosity. If you google kenmore parts and
plug your model number in you can look through the pages and see what parts
are available.

Two items that may be applicable to your symptoms. Best bet is a fuse kit.
there are three shown in the kit. The other item is the electronic control
panel.
I would sure chase down the fuses. That would be the most likely. In your
later post you found a device that was open .
Go order the fuse kit ( around (20-30 bucks )

Charlie

"Charlie" wrote in message
...

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Thanks all for the suggestions. I did follow them and assured that
there is a good 122 VAC arriving at the connection box. The
connection to the DW wires are clean and secure (now). But, still no
power to the machine.

Before I pull the unit out and/or disassemble the entire door looking
for interlock switches, I find it strange that thereiare NO led's that
will illuminate.

This model has a long row of touch pads along the top edge of the door
to select cycles and options. When selected the little led turns red.
Once the door is closed there are two touch pads on the front face: a
start and a cancel.

Again, it appears that the entire unit is without power so if the feed
is verified then is there a major switch of some sorts early in the
circuitry such as an internal breaker, thermisor, etc?

Thanks

I snooped around a bit out of curiosity. If you google kenmore parts and
plug your model number in you can look through the pages and see what
parts are available.

Two items that may be applicable to your symptoms. Best bet is a fuse kit.
there are three shown in the kit. The other item is the electronic control
panel.
I would sure chase down the fuses. That would be the most likely. In your
later post you found a device that was open .
Go order the fuse kit ( around (20-30 bucks )

Charlie

or better yet, locate any fuses that are on the machine, check to see if any
are open, and if so, buy new ones

"Charlie" wrote in message
...

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Thanks all for the suggestions. I did follow them and assured that
there is a good 122 VAC arriving at the connection box. The
connection to the DW wires are clean and secure (now). But, still no
power to the machine.

Before I pull the unit out and/or disassemble the entire door looking
for interlock switches, I find it strange that thereiare NO led's that
will illuminate.

This model has a long row of touch pads along the top edge of the door
to select cycles and options. When selected the little led turns red.
Once the door is closed there are two touch pads on the front face: a
start and a cancel.

Again, it appears that the entire unit is without power so if the feed
is verified then is there a major switch of some sorts early in the
circuitry such as an internal breaker, thermisor, etc?

Thanks

I snooped around a bit out of curiosity. If you google kenmore parts and
plug your model number in you can look through the pages and see what
parts are available.

Two items that may be applicable to your symptoms. Best bet is a fuse kit.
there are three shown in the kit. The other item is the electronic control
panel.
I would sure chase down the fuses. That would be the most likely. In your
later post you found a device that was open .
Go order the fuse kit ( around (20-30 bucks )

Charlie

You said you found an open device. There is also a thermal fuse. A good one
will show a short.
Check the link.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...erId=665&mv=rr

On Aug 15, 8:12*am, bobmct wrote:
Thanks all for the suggestions. *I did follow them and assured that
there is a good 122 VAC arriving at the connection box. *The
connection to the DW wires are clean and secure (now). *But, still no
power to the machine.

Before I pull the unit out and/or disassemble the entire door looking
for interlock switches, I find it strange that thereiare NO led's that
will illuminate.

This model has a long row of touch pads along the top edge of the door
to select cycles and options. *When selected the little led turns red.
Once the door is closed there are two touch pads on the front face: *a
start and a cancel.

Again, it appears that the entire unit is without power so if the feed
is verified then is there a major switch of some sorts early in the
circuitry such as an internal breaker, thermisor, etc?

I can't even locate a pdf of this unit online but there was a
schematic behind the access panel whihk appears to have timer cycles,
etc.

So I tough I would ask if anyone had/has experience with the series
(665.15954 - made by Whirlpool) that may have run across this
situation before. *With the economy I really don't wish to call a
repairman for obvious reasons (sorry all repairmen) 'cause the unit is
about 10 years old.

Thanks

You don’t need to pull out the unit to get to the door switch and
check if it’s getting power. If it is my next guess would be your main
control board as the culprit and if so then you might as well buy a
new dishwasher.

On 8/15/2010 4:12 PM, Molly Brown wrote:
On Aug 15, 8:12 am, wrote:
Thanks all for the suggestions. I did follow them and assured that
there is a good 122 VAC arriving at the connection box. The
connection to the DW wires are clean and secure (now). But, still no
power to the machine.

Before I pull the unit out and/or disassemble the entire door looking
for interlock switches, I find it strange that thereiare NO led's that
will illuminate.

This model has a long row of touch pads along the top edge of the door
to select cycles and options. When selected the little led turns red.
Once the door is closed there are two touch pads on the front face: a
start and a cancel.

Again, it appears that the entire unit is without power so if the feed
is verified then is there a major switch of some sorts early in the
circuitry such as an internal breaker, thermisor, etc?

I can't even locate a pdf of this unit online but there was a
schematic behind the access panel whihk appears to have timer cycles,
etc.

So I tough I would ask if anyone had/has experience with the series
(665.15954 - made by Whirlpool) that may have run across this
situation before. With the economy I really don't wish to call a
repairman for obvious reasons (sorry all repairmen) 'cause the unit is
about 10 years old.

Thanks

You don’t need to pull out the unit to get to the door switch and
check if it’s getting power. If it is my next guess would be your main
control board as the culprit and if so then you might as well buy a
new dishwasher.


And, you would have been wrong. Which is why you shouldn't listen to
anyone who offers guesses. They are almost always wrong.

Jeff