I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.



To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.



Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.



I have a condensate pump that seems to be working. It pumps water up
about 3 feet then latterally about 10 feet out a crawl space vent. Is
this ok?



I appreciate any help!



Also, how long do you think a unit should last before it is replaced?
Am I living on borrowed time since mine is 12 years old? It has
propane heat.



Thanks!

In article , stryped wrote:
[,,,]
To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Probably due to high humidity condensing on the outside of the ducts. I'm
guessing that your crawl space has no vapor barrier on top of the soil, and no
foundation vents either. Now you know why it's a good idea to have both.

Reduce humidity and ventilate.

stryped fired this volley in news:78b2cd5b-73c1-
:

o make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.


The duct work? Or do you mean the register itself?

If the ductwork is wet, you have a really UGLY and expensive job ahead.

If it's the register...I would first guess that the AC is oversized for
the application, and isn't running long enough per cycle to dehumdify
properly, or that there's an _extreme_ moisture source inside that is
keeping the humidity high despite the AC.

When registers get cold enough to condense moisture, they're either
running too cold, or the humidity in the space is too high. Either way,
it sounds like 1)too large a unit for the space, 2) insufficient airflow,
resulting in too cold air, or 3) a bad humidity source in the house that
is preventing the AC from removing enough of it to keep from condensing
at the outlet air temperature.

No harm intended here, Styped: You're out of your league. Hire a pro to
diagnose the problem.

LLoyd

stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.



To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.



Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

It is generally a good idea to wash out the condenser coil (outside)
every year with a concentrated spray from a garden hose, at least.
That probably isn't related to the wet ducts, but could be related to
higher electric bills.

You may also need to clean the evaporator coil, that can be harder to do
without making a huge mess. If it is clogged with dust, it can slow
airflow, and cause the smaller volume of air to get colder than it
should, leading to condensation in the ducts. Also, of course, make
sure the air filter is clean, and the slot where you insert it is not
leaking a lot of air. Check the insulation on the ducts, it may be
coming loose. If you ducts are not insulated, then crawl space systems
will surely get condensation and poor efficiency. You might do well to
wrap insulation batts around it.


Jon

On Jul 31, 11:39*pm, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.

To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

It is generally a good idea to wash out the condenser coil (outside)
every year with a concentrated spray from a garden hose, at least.
That probably isn't related to the wet ducts, but could be related to
higher electric bills.

You may also need to clean the evaporator coil, that can be harder to do
without making a huge mess. *If it is clogged with dust, it can slow
airflow, and cause the smaller volume of air to get colder than it
should, leading to condensation in the ducts. *Also, of course, make
sure the air filter is clean, and the slot where you insert it is not
leaking a lot of air. *Check the insulation on the ducts, it may be
coming loose. *If you ducts are not insulated, then crawl space systems
will surely get condensation and poor efficiency. *You might do well to
wrap insulation batts around it.

Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There are vents in my crawlspace and a vapor barrier on the ground. AT
night the thermostat is set at 71-72. Could thi sbe a problem?

Once the duct work is wet does it have to be replaced?

On Aug 1, 7:35*am, stryped wrote:
On Jul 31, 11:39*pm, Jon Elson wrote:





stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.

To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

It is generally a good idea to wash out the condenser coil (outside)
every year with a concentrated spray from a garden hose, at least.
That probably isn't related to the wet ducts, but could be related to
higher electric bills.

You may also need to clean the evaporator coil, that can be harder to do
without making a huge mess. *If it is clogged with dust, it can slow
airflow, and cause the smaller volume of air to get colder than it
should, leading to condensation in the ducts. *Also, of course, make
sure the air filter is clean, and the slot where you insert it is not
leaking a lot of air. *Check the insulation on the ducts, it may be
coming loose. *If you ducts are not insulated, then crawl space systems
will surely get condensation and poor efficiency. *You might do well to
wrap insulation batts around it.

Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There are vents in my crawlspace and a vapor barrier on the ground. AT
night the thermostat is set at 71-72. Could thi sbe a problem?

Once the duct work is wet does it have to be replaced?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It should dry out OK. The real problem is if it gets wet and stays
wet for long enough, then you could have mold starting to grow. Is
it possible it always got wet and you just never noticed it?
Another possibility is diminished air flow through the system. That
would mean you are getting less air out, but the air is much colder,
dropping the temp of the outside of the ducts more so that when it's
humid condensation occurs.

Check air flow, filters, blower speed, A coil for blockage, all vents
fully open, etc.

As for system life, from what I've seen posted here the consensus
seems to be that systems from decades ago generally lasted 20-25
years. Newer systems seem to be more like 15-20.

There is also the 30% Fed tax credit for new high efficiency systems
that expires this year. That combined with possible state, utility,
manf rebates etc can greatly lower the cost of a new system.

I just this week had a related problem with our a/c system. The funace
is on the main floor of the house and the house has a full basement. The
A/C has a lateral drain line across the ceiling of the basement that
goes over about 10 feet and then down to a sump pump. That lateral line
plugged up with crud and most of the water backed up to a loose
connection where it leaked out to the basement floor. I cleaned the
line with compressed air to solve the problem. Our system is 18 years
old. We have had a freon leak fixed once and and a cooling fan on the
condenser replaced once. If the compressor died, we'd probably replace
the system, but not until then.

Pete Stanaitis
-------------------

stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.



To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.



Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.



I have a condensate pump that seems to be working. It pumps water up
about 3 feet then latterally about 10 feet out a crawl space vent. Is
this ok?



I appreciate any help!



Also, how long do you think a unit should last before it is replaced?
Am I living on borrowed time since mine is 12 years old? It has
propane heat.



Thanks!

On Jul 31, 8:33*pm, stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.

To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

I have a condensate pump that seems to be working. It pumps water up
about 3 feet then latterally about 10 feet out a crawl space vent. Is
this ok?

I appreciate any help!

Also, how long do you think a unit should last before it is replaced?
Am I living on borrowed time since mine is 12 years old? It has
propane heat.

Thanks!

Nothing should be wet, get a pro out. Hopefully its a new issue or the
water damage will cost you alot of money

On Aug 1, 8:17*am, spaco wrote:
I just this week had a related problem with our a/c system. The funace
is on the main floor of the house and the house has a full basement. The
* A/C *has a lateral drain line across the ceiling of the basement that
goes over about 10 feet and then down to a sump pump. *That lateral line
plugged up with crud and most of the water backed up to a loose
connection where it leaked out to the basement floor.

That has what to do with the duct work in the crawlspace being wet?
A condensate drain issue results in what you had, water on the floor,
not wet ducts all over the crawlspace.





*I cleaned the
line with compressed air to solve the problem. *Our system is 18 years
old. *We have had a freon leak fixed once and and a cooling fan on the
condenser replaced once. *If the compressor died, we'd probably replace
the system, but not until then.

Pete Stanaitis
-------------------



stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.

To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

I have a condensate pump that seems to be working. It pumps water up
about 3 feet then latterally about 10 feet out a crawl space vent. Is
this ok?

I appreciate any help!

Also, how long do you think a unit should last before it is replaced?
Am I living on borrowed time since mine is 12 years old? It has
propane heat.

Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

stryped wrote:


There are vents in my crawlspace and a vapor barrier on the ground. AT
night the thermostat is set at 71-72. Could thi sbe a problem?

Wow, that will sure explain your high utility bills. We set ours about
78 most of the time.
Once the duct work is wet does it have to be replaced?

If it is not insulated, no. If it is insulated, and the insulation has
started to grow mold, yet!
If no mold, then you need to get it dried out and see what can be done
to keep it dry.

Jon

On Aug 1, 2:06*pm, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:

There are vents in my crawlspace and a vapor barrier on the ground. AT
night the thermostat is set at 71-72. Could thi sbe a problem?

Wow, that will sure explain your high utility bills. *We set ours about
78 most of the time. Once the duct work is wet does it have to be replaced?

If it is not insulated, no. *If it is insulated, and the insulation has
started to grow mold, yet!
If no mold, then you need to get it dried out and see what can be done
to keep it dry.

Jon

My advice is to do a complete check of the condensate pan and drain
system. Problems with that are the most common reason for water
further down. Just because it looks like it is working does no tmean
it is. Check all of it for clogging. Start by taking the access
panel off the A coil and see if the water is draining out of there
properly.

On Aug 1, 1:21*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 1, 2:06*pm, Jon Elson wrote:

stryped wrote:

There are vents in my crawlspace and a vapor barrier on the ground. AT
night the thermostat is set at 71-72. Could thi sbe a problem?

Wow, that will sure explain your high utility bills. *We set ours about
78 most of the time. Once the duct work is wet does it have to be replaced?

If it is not insulated, no. *If it is insulated, and the insulation has
started to grow mold, yet!
If no mold, then you need to get it dried out and see what can be done
to keep it dry.

Jon

My advice is to do a complete check of the condensate pan and drain
system. *Problems with that are the most common reason for water
further down. *Just because it looks like it is working does no tmean
it is. *Check all of it for clogging. *Start by taking the access
panel off the A coil and see if the water is draining out of there
properly.

I just found my metal register boxes in some spots are wet with
condensation. I can feel s small air leak with my hand at the corner
of this box but cant seem to tape it or anythign where I cant feel it.
Could an air leak cause this?

On Aug 1, 1:21*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 1, 2:06*pm, Jon Elson wrote:

stryped wrote:

There are vents in my crawlspace and a vapor barrier on the ground. AT
night the thermostat is set at 71-72. Could thi sbe a problem?

Wow, that will sure explain your high utility bills. *We set ours about
78 most of the time. Once the duct work is wet does it have to be replaced?

If it is not insulated, no. *If it is insulated, and the insulation has
started to grow mold, yet!
If no mold, then you need to get it dried out and see what can be done
to keep it dry.

Jon

My advice is to do a complete check of the condensate pan and drain
system. *Problems with that are the most common reason for water
further down. *Just because it looks like it is working does no tmean
it is. *Check all of it for clogging. *Start by taking the access
panel off the A coil and see if the water is draining out of there
properly.

While I am on the subject, is there any beneift / detrimate to have a
self contained unit verus a split system?

stryped fired this volley in news:5e9b7f49-4b3f-480c-
:

I can feel s small air leak with my hand at the corner
of this box but cant seem to tape it or anythign where I cant feel it.
Could an air leak cause this?


Yes, Stryped. An air leak could cause you to feel a small air leak with
your hand.

thunk!
LLoyd

On Aug 2, 2:36*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:5e9b7f49-4b3f-480c-
:

I can feel s small air leak with my hand at the corner
of this box but cant seem to tape it or anythign where I cant feel it.
Could an air leak cause this?

Yes, Stryped. *An air leak could cause you to feel a small air leak with
your hand.

thunk!
LLoyd

I mean, could a small air leak such as this somehow cause condensation
on the subfloor?

On Jul 31, 7:33*pm, stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.

To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

I have a condensate pump that seems to be working. It pumps water up
about 3 feet then latterally about 10 feet out a crawl space vent. Is
this ok?

I appreciate any help!

Also, how long do you think a unit should last before it is replaced?
Am I living on borrowed time since mine is 12 years old? It has
propane heat.

Thanks!

What speed is the fan running in the air handler? Don't assume it was
installed correctly, if high speed, it may be blowing condensate
(spitting) out to the airducts.
Also check condensate drain line.
I believe you indicated crawl space had ground vapor barrier, but
there were airvents to space. During summer cooling, these would be
wise to close off.
I don't know where your located, but what is the typical outdoor
humidity on a summer day. This time of the year in Iowa, we run with
dew points close to ambient.
How is the return air piped into this air handler? Is it leaking
(sucking air from the crawl space)?
ignator

On Jul 31, 7:33*pm, stryped wrote:
I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.

To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

I have a condensate pump that seems to be working. It pumps water up
about 3 feet then latterally about 10 feet out a crawl space vent. Is
this ok?

I appreciate any help!

Also, how long do you think a unit should last before it is replaced?
Am I living on borrowed time since mine is 12 years old? It has
propane heat.

Thanks!

What speed is the fan running in the air handler? Don't assume it was
installed correctly, if high speed, it may be blowing condensate
(spitting) out to the airducts.
Also check condensate drain line.
I believe you indicated crawl space had ground vapor barrier, but
there were airvents to space. During summer cooling, these would be
wise to close off.
I don't know where your located, but what is the typical outdoor
humidity on a summer day. This time of the year in Iowa, we run with
dew points close to ambient.
How is the return air piped into this air handler? Is it leaking
(sucking air from the crawl space)?
ignator

On Aug 2, 5:20*pm, ignator wrote:
On Jul 31, 7:33*pm, stryped wrote:





I have a 12 year old Carrier weathermaster 9200. It has been a good
unit. I have it installe din the crawl space with insulated flexible
duct.

To make a long story short, my duct work is wet. Soem more than
others. Some so bad the adjacent sub floor to the register is getting
wet.

Unit seems to cool ok. My electric bill has gone up alot in the last
two months but that may be due to hotter temps than normal.

I have a condensate pump that seems to be working. It pumps water up
about 3 feet then latterally about 10 feet out a crawl space vent. Is
this ok?

I appreciate any help!

Also, how long do you think a unit should last before it is replaced?
Am I living on borrowed time since mine is 12 years old? It has
propane heat.

Thanks!

What speed is the fan running in the air handler? *Don't assume it was
installed correctly, if high speed, it may be blowing condensate
(spitting) out to the airducts.
Also check condensate drain line.
I believe you indicated crawl space had ground vapor barrier, but
there were airvents to space. *During summer cooling, these would be
wise to close off.
I don't know where your located, but what is the typical outdoor
humidity on a summer day. *This time of the year in Iowa, we run with
dew points close to ambient.
How is the return air piped into this air handler? *Is it leaking
(sucking air from the crawl space)?
ignator- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Checked condensate drain line. It is ok. I live in the south where 90%
plus humidity is common. SHould I close the vents?

Return air uses flex duxt to the inside of the house.

My metal box registers are sweating greatly. What I am finding is they
sweat into the flexible duct insulation. I replace some insulation a
few days ago and the tip of the insulation that contacts the metal box
is already wet. Would it be feasable to take fiberglass batts and wrap
around the metal duct box that attaches to the subfloor?