What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks

On Jul 14, 11:54*pm, mart wrote:
What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks

minimally expanding closed cell foam, and perhaps a additonal layer of
drywall on those floating supports.

mart wrote:

What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset.

The likely most effective solution is screwing horizontal metal
acoustical channels to the existing studs and screwing another layer
of drywall to those strips, first making sure to seal all air leaks,
including any around wall outlets (you don't want any one stud cavity
to have outlets for adjacent rooms). This actually gives a higher
acoustical STC rating than a wall made with offset studs. Just
adding another layer of drywall won't help much. I probably wouldn't
use cellulose because it's messy, compared to fiberglass batt.

On Jul 14, 10:54*pm, mart wrote:
What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks

What amount of soundproofing do you need, none of those ideas do
anything like additional floating walls music studios have.

On Jul 14, 10:58*pm, " wrote:
On Jul 14, 11:54*pm, mart wrote:

What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks

minimally expanding closed cell foam, and perhaps a additonal layer of
drywall on those floating supports.

Have you used foam and know it works, I used foam board on the outside
and it Magnified certain sound frequencies that now sound like there
are inside the house. Hit a piece foam it resonates loudly, the
objective of insulation is to absorb energy I know drywall works.

mart wrote:
What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue
or acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs
are NOT offset. Thanks

Not much gets through a couple layers of 30 pound roofing felt.

Jon

On Jul 15, 6:34*am, ransley wrote:
On Jul 14, 10:58*pm, " wrote:

On Jul 14, 11:54*pm, mart wrote:

What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks

minimally expanding closed cell foam, and perhaps a additonal layer of
drywall on those floating supports.

Have you used foam and know it works, I used foam board on the outside
and it Magnified certain sound frequencies that now sound like there
are inside the house. Hit a piece foam it resonates loudly, the
objective of insulation is to absorb energy I know drywall works.

foam STOPS air inflitration that carries most noise, probably best to
gut the wall install acoustic drywall on one side, install spry in
foam, then install the remaing acoustic drywall.... drywall on
floating mount appears better too

mart wrote in newsan.2010.07.15.03.54.02.541000
@nowherexcv.net:

What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks


Sound-proofing requires more mass to absorb the sound energy so another
layer of acoust-seal is best as it is the heaviest material. Sound can also
leak around or through walls sort of like water so sealing gaps can help a
lot, too. Use an acoustical foaming product.

On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 03:54:05 GMT, mart wrote:

What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks


A lot depends on on the situation, the sound source etc.

Make sure all air to air leaks are corrected. Heating and cooling
ducts and returns can allow a lot of sound through. Double walls with
no connection from room to room works well.

In some situations the best solution may be to attend to the source.
The point is, someone with experience can do far more than all of us
here who can't see or hear the situation.

On Jul 15, 8:56*am, " wrote:
On Jul 15, 6:34*am, ransley wrote:

On Jul 14, 10:58*pm, " wrote:

On Jul 14, 11:54*pm, mart wrote:

What would be more effective: Another layer of dryall and green glue or
acousti-seal on 1 side or filling the wall with cellulose? Studs are NOT
offset. Thanks

minimally expanding closed cell foam, and perhaps a additonal layer of
drywall on those floating supports.

Have you used foam and know it works, I used foam board on the outside
and it Magnified certain sound frequencies that now sound like there
are inside the house. Hit a piece foam it resonates loudly, the
objective of insulation is to absorb energy I know drywall works.

foam STOPS air inflitration that carries most noise, probably best to
gut the wall install acoustic drywall on one side, install spry in
foam, then install the remaing acoustic drywall.... drywall on
floating mount appears better too

Sound travels and stopping air doesnt stop sound. Have you put foam on
your walls to test it, have you build or worked in music studios and
have a knowledge of sound, I do. As I said foam will do nothing in
certain frequencies and in my place makes certain sounds seem louder,
soft materials or materials that absorb work best