I see this poster acts !$#@$$^ wherever he or she goes. has bad
attitude and personal attacks on all sorts of sites.

google should delete him

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 13:14:55 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jul 5, 2:45*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 11:21:59 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:





On Jul 5, 11:36*am, "
wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 08:22:02 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

if you have a reputable water proofing company do the job, wait 6
months or a year to make certain all is well and remodel.....

...and if it was the first time in ten years the basement flooded?

well lets assume you have a water problem after that. thats what
homeowners insurance is for make certain it covers water inflatration.

Does yours? *Homeowners insurance doesn't cover "rising water". *Flood
insurance is required. *More reasons to move.

if you then get water damage make a claim with your homeowners
insurance and they will take care of it and duke it out with the
waterproofing company.

You're clueless.

theres very little for the homeowner to do to with basement
waterproofing, hire a good company and sign the check when they are
done, many will move the stuff in your basement for free to get the
job.......

You missed the part about waiting for the next flood.

they should be expersts and know what to do if something wierd comes
up.

Sure they do; take more money.

well a brand new home is a complete unknown, 5 years after buying it
could devlop a wet basemnent problem.

You do know that the new home has proper footing drainage, something you don't
know with your inside hack job. *You also know that the new home has an
unbroken slab, with proper sub-slab drainage.

insurance will add coverage for near anything, for a few bucks extra.

Bull****.

obviously your posting in the bwrong group this s home repair not buy
a new home when anything breaks.

You're absolutely clueless. *...but I'm not breaking the news to anyone here.

PLONK!

Don't run away mad, moron.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

with a new home even with a properly installed drain system something
can get blocked, like a drain line filling with silt, i dug it up and
saw that first hand

Ah, so the liar did come back.

Can, maybe, and if, don't trump *DID*.

water flow in area may change. this happened to a buddy who suddenly
had a wet lawn and water in basement, where none had existed before. 3
years later the water line leak 1/2 mile away must of got worse,
anyhow after that was fixed his yard and basement got dry
again........

nothing in life is for sure except in your world you must be rich to
replace anything that breaks

You really are as stupid as you sound.

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 13:21:00 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I see this poster acts !$#@$$^ wherever he or she goes. has bad
attitude and personal attacks on all sorts of sites.

Sites? (what a moron) No, I don't slink away from assholes, asshole.

google should delete him

Google? Geez! You are dumber than even *I* thought! "Moron" doesn't even
start to describe you.

On Jul 4, 11:16*am, "
wrote:
On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 07:08:51 -0700 (PDT), cubby
wrote:

On Jul 3, 12:34*pm, "
wrote:
On Sat, 3 Jul 2010 09:52:49 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

snipped at the request of the moron

You bet wrong, as always.

Dude, admit defeat on this one.

Another illiterate speaks.

Putting it a drain is not a big job
(unless you are a complete novice).

It is a *huge* job for a home-owner, with all sorts of complications and
risks. *I'm not against fixing problems, but I would *never* finish this
basement off following such a repair. *They too often don't work. *If there is
that much water on the other side of the wall it *will* leak again, sooner or
later.

My house has a 1800 sq basement
and it took a day to punch out the trench, run pipes etc, and the next
morning to concrete over. *From that point on, no water, no damp and
no worrying whenever I hear rain at night. * It cost me about 6k to
do, but I had knocked the same amount off the price I was willing to
pay for the house. *Suggesting someone needs to move house because of
something like this is ridiculous. *You must be the type of guy that
sells a car because it needs new tires.

You're as moronic as halliburton.


lol, clearly insane (and apt to talk about something he has zero
experience with). Pointless to continue...

On Jul 5, 5:31*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 13:21:00 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I see this poster acts !$#@$$^ wherever he or she goes. has bad
attitude and personal attacks on all sorts of sites.

Sites? (what a moron) *No, I don't slink away from assholes, asshole. *

google should delete him

Google? *Geez! *You are dumber than even *I* thought! *"Moron" doesn't even
start to describe you.

Bored of reading your crap now, please find another hobby. Maybe
there's something like alt.rec.full_of_****?

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 18:54:32 -0700 (PDT), cubby
wrote:

On Jul 5, 5:31*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 13:21:00 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I see this poster acts !$#@$$^ wherever he or she goes. has bad
attitude and personal attacks on all sorts of sites.

Sites? (what a moron) *No, I don't slink away from assholes, asshole. *

google should delete him

Google? *Geez! *You are dumber than even *I* thought! *"Moron" doesn't even
start to describe you.

Bored of reading your crap now, please find another hobby. Maybe
there's something like alt.rec.full_of_****?

For Halliburton, perhaps.

On Jul 5, 2:40*pm, Bryan Scholtes wrote:
OK, so an update...

I pulled a couple of the bottom plates. Looks like I didn't drill
through the slab. I assessed this by trying to drill with a non-
masonry bit in a couple of the holes, and they didn't go anywhere.
Most of the holes were about 1.5 inches deep. But the plates I did
pull were certainly moist underneath.

Over the phone, one local place suggested I look at the height of the
first concrete block. He *deduced the slab thickness by assuming the
slab was as thick as the buried portion of the first concrete block.
So that;d be about 4 inches. He also didn't want to come out because
he didn't believe I had a problem. He's convinced I need to grade
better and do a better job of keeping water away from the foundation.

The second guy is coming by Wednesday night to physically check it
out. He believes it's condensation wicking through the slab and
expressing itself on the bottom plates. His suggestion was the same as
the first guy's, but contingent on stopping by and actually looking at
it.

Everything is on hold for now. If I have to install a French drain, I
can't afford it. I'll probably pull out the existing framing and scrap
the refinish. Maybe I'll insulate above grade and just make the
unfinished basement as comfortable as possible.

So we'll see... My situation seems to be unique. It's nowhere else on
the Web. I hope this is a reference for people in the future.

Thanks for your help!!!

It's possible that you have some water under the slab and no vapor
barrier. Set some things down on the slab in various places for a few
days and then see if it is damp under them. If it has never flooded I
don't kown that it would prevent me from finishing it. But I probably
would put a good dehumidifier down there. And keep the flooring
choice simple.

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 5, 2:40 pm, Bryan Scholtes wrote:
OK, so an update...

I pulled a couple of the bottom plates. Looks like I didn't drill
through the slab. I assessed this by trying to drill with a non-
masonry bit in a couple of the holes, and they didn't go anywhere.
Most of the holes were about 1.5 inches deep. But the plates I did
pull were certainly moist underneath.

Over the phone, one local place suggested I look at the height of the
first concrete block. He deduced the slab thickness by assuming the
slab was as thick as the buried portion of the first concrete block.
So that;d be about 4 inches. He also didn't want to come out because
he didn't believe I had a problem. He's convinced I need to grade
better and do a better job of keeping water away from the foundation.

The second guy is coming by Wednesday night to physically check it
out. He believes it's condensation wicking through the slab and
expressing itself on the bottom plates. His suggestion was the same as
the first guy's, but contingent on stopping by and actually looking at
it.

Everything is on hold for now. If I have to install a French drain, I
can't afford it. I'll probably pull out the existing framing and scrap
the refinish. Maybe I'll insulate above grade and just make the
unfinished basement as comfortable as possible.

So we'll see... My situation seems to be unique. It's nowhere else on
the Web. I hope this is a reference for people in the future.

Thanks for your help!!!

It's possible that you have some water under the slab and no vapor
barrier. Set some things down on the slab in various places for a few
days and then see if it is damp under them. If it has never flooded I
don't kown that it would prevent me from finishing it. But I probably
would put a good dehumidifier down there. And keep the flooring
choice simple.

Try the classic 'wet concrete' test- tape some 12-18 inch squares of
plastic sheeting (visqueen or similar) down in various spots in the
basement, and leave for 24-48 hours. If the slab is wicking water, it
will quickly become apparent under the plastic.

--
aem sends...

The actual cost of materials to install french drain in interior is
pretty low, that cheap flexible black plastic corrugated drain pipe, a
pile of gravel bought at a supply yard, some concrete to replace
removed areas of floor, rental of a jackhammer a sup pit and pump some
PVC drain pipe.

Its not rocket science a nice DIY project. mostly moving junk most
have filling their basements.... you can do one area at a time if
thats a issue

but once its done your homes value increases