We have water damage from a leaking sink drain inside a kitchen wall.
Unfortunately it went on for a while and the sill is rotten which allowed
the floor joists to sink and well... you get the idea. The insurance
company is telling me they won't pay for it (they won't pay for rot damage
that is caused over weeks or months, I guess they only pay for rot damage
caused in a day). Anyway, how difficult is something like this to fix? I
assume we'll have to pull out the cabinets (needs doing anyway), pull out
the floor, jack up the joists and ... then what? I'm not planning on
DIYing this but I'm looking for an idea of what is involved.

On May 25, 1:14*am, Mac Cool wrote:
We have water damage from a leaking sink drain inside a kitchen wall.
Unfortunately it went on for a while and the sill is rotten which allowed
the floor joists to sink and well... you get the idea. The insurance
company is telling me they won't pay for it (they won't pay for rot damage
that is caused over weeks or months, I guess they only pay for rot damage
caused in a day). Anyway, how difficult is something like this to fix? I
assume we'll have to pull out the cabinets (needs doing anyway), pull out
the floor, jack up the joists and ... then what? I'm not planning on
DIYing this but I'm looking for an idea of what is involved.

Do you have access to it? I had a sill and rim joist replaced fifteen
years ago. It wasn't a big job at all; $275 (but that was 15 years
ago). I can see all sorts of possible complications, though. Replace
it with PT.

Mac Cool wrote:
We have water damage from a leaking sink drain inside a kitchen wall.
Unfortunately it went on for a while and the sill is rotten which allowed
the floor joists to sink and well... you get the idea. The insurance
company is telling me they won't pay for it (they won't pay for rot damage
that is caused over weeks or months, I guess they only pay for rot damage
caused in a day). Anyway, how difficult is something like this to fix? I
assume we'll have to pull out the cabinets (needs doing anyway), pull out
the floor, jack up the joists and ... then what? I'm not planning on
DIYing this but I'm looking for an idea of what is involved.

The sill plate itself more than likely could be done from a crawl space
or basement if there is one rather than from the kitchen itself.

Of course, if there's that much water you may need the other repair
anyway, of course.

It shouldn't be a major problem but depends on details not knowable from
here as to any possible complications....

--

keith:

Do you have access to it? I had a sill and rim joist replaced
fifteen years ago. It wasn't a big job at all; $275 (but that was 15
years ago). I can see all sorts of possible complications, though.
Replace it with PT.

There is a crawlspace, not much room, maybe 3 feet. It's a brick veneer
home.

On May 25, 9:42*am, Mac Cool wrote:
keith:

Do you have access to it? *I had a sill and rim joist replaced
fifteen years ago. *It wasn't a big job at all; $275 (but that was 15
years ago). *I can see all sorts of possible complications, though.
Replace it with PT.

There is a crawlspace, not much room, maybe 3 feet. It's a brick veneer
home.

That's all the space they'll need, though they might not be happy
about it. Depending on whether the rim joist is parallel to the field
of floor joists, or if the joists are attached to it, will determine
if it's an easy job or a bear. If there are not floor joists running
into it, then it's pretty straightforward and the biggest issue will
probably be working around or moving plumbing and mechanical
obstructions.

If the floor joists are attached to the rim joist you have a much
bigger problem with a brick veneer building. It would involve poking
holes in the brick above the work area, supporting the brick above the
work area with inclined jacks and/or steel clips bolted to the
framing, then removing all of the brick in front of the rim joist and
going to work.

R

RicodJour:

If the floor joists are attached to the rim joist you have a much
bigger problem with a brick veneer building. It would involve poking
holes in the brick above the work area, supporting the brick above the
work area with inclined jacks and/or steel clips bolted to the
framing, then removing all of the brick in front of the rim joist and
going to work.

It's the latter, thanks.