Because, even though I've changed the remote code a couple of times, my
garage door has recently opened "by itself" several times, I bought a
Genie Intellicode replacement remote opener. I'm supposed to deactivate
the current radio. My current apparatus is combined Sears unit with a
button to open the door directly and a radio to respond to the remote. A
photo is at http://www.gavelcade.com/opener.jpg.

I'm supposing that the upper part, the part that's opened out in the
photo, is the radio. The pushbutton is underneath it. If I snip the two
red wires, will that deactivate the radio while leaving the pushbutton
operational?

Is there any reason why what I'm trying to do won't work?

On Sat, 08 May 2010 19:51:27 -0400, Harlan Messinger
wrote:

Because, even though I've changed the remote code a couple of times, my
garage door has recently opened "by itself" several times, I bought a
Genie Intellicode replacement remote opener. I'm supposed to deactivate
the current radio. My current apparatus is combined Sears unit with a
button to open the door directly and a radio to respond to the remote. A
photo is at http://www.gavelcade.com/opener.jpg.

I'm supposing that the upper part, the part that's opened out in the
photo, is the radio. The pushbutton is underneath it. If I snip the two
red wires, will that deactivate the radio while leaving the pushbutton
operational?

Rather than snip the red wires, you could pull the white connector
away from the board to which it is connected. Lift "up" as if the
board is horizontal and it will come off.

That way, someday you might give the thing to someone who lives
farther away from other garage door openers than it seems you do. I
think they are what are opening the door.

Is there any reason why what I'm trying to do won't work?

But nothing about what I said is meant to say that that will help you.
I really know nothing more about openers than what I've said.

mm wrote:
On Sat, 08 May 2010 19:51:27 -0400, Harlan Messinger
wrote:

Because, even though I've changed the remote code a couple of times, my
garage door has recently opened "by itself" several times, I bought a
Genie Intellicode replacement remote opener. I'm supposed to deactivate
the current radio. My current apparatus is combined Sears unit with a
button to open the door directly and a radio to respond to the remote. A
photo is at http://www.gavelcade.com/opener.jpg.

I'm supposing that the upper part, the part that's opened out in the
photo, is the radio. The pushbutton is underneath it. If I snip the two
red wires, will that deactivate the radio while leaving the pushbutton
operational?

Rather than snip the red wires, you could pull the white connector
away from the board to which it is connected. Lift "up" as if the
board is horizontal and it will come off.

Before I wrote I did try pulling it to see if it would come off, but it
didn't, and I didn't want to pull harder for fear it was fastened there
and not meant to be removed, and I didn't want to damage the board. I'll
give it another try.

That way, someday you might give the thing to someone who lives
farther away from other garage door openers than it seems you do. I
think they are what are opening the door.

Is there any reason why what I'm trying to do won't work?

But nothing about what I said is meant to say that that will help you.
I really know nothing more about openers than what I've said.

On May 8, 6:51*pm, Harlan Messinger
wrote:
Because, even though I've changed the remote code a couple of times, my
garage door has recently opened "by itself" several times, I bought a
Genie Intellicode replacement remote opener. I'm supposed to deactivate
the current radio. My current apparatus is combined Sears unit with a
button to open the door directly and a radio to respond to the remote. A
photo is athttp://www.gavelcade.com/opener.jpg.

I'm supposing that the upper part, the part that's opened out in the
photo, is the radio. The pushbutton is underneath it. If I snip the two
red wires, will that deactivate the radio while leaving the pushbutton
operational?

Is there any reason why what I'm trying to do won't work?

My door used to open by itself, like when the weather changed or it
got hot, it was only the travel adjustment , this was what was
recommended I try from Tech support which guided me through the
adjustment. I bet your issue is not the remote but something else like
mine.

On May 8, 7:16*pm, ransley wrote:
On May 8, 6:51*pm, Harlan Messinger

wrote:
Because, even though I've changed the remote code a couple of times, my
garage door has recently opened "by itself" several times, I bought a
Genie Intellicode replacement remote opener. I'm supposed to deactivate
the current radio. My current apparatus is combined Sears unit with a
button to open the door directly and a radio to respond to the remote. A
photo is athttp://www.gavelcade.com/opener.jpg.

I'm supposing that the upper part, the part that's opened out in the
photo, is the radio. The pushbutton is underneath it. If I snip the two
red wires, will that deactivate the radio while leaving the pushbutton
operational?

Is there any reason why what I'm trying to do won't work?

My door used to open by itself, like when the weather changed or it
got hot, it was only the travel adjustment , this was what was
recommended I try from Tech support which guided me through the
adjustment. I bet your issue is not the remote but something else like
mine.

Same here. Old garage, old concrete floor that is cracked -up/down-
with weather changes. Had to ease off the down limit pressure.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On May 8, 7:16 pm, ransley wrote:
On May 8, 6:51 pm, Harlan Messinger

wrote:
Because, even though I've changed the remote code a couple of times, my
garage door has recently opened "by itself" several times, I bought a
Genie Intellicode replacement remote opener. I'm supposed to deactivate
the current radio. My current apparatus is combined Sears unit with a
button to open the door directly and a radio to respond to the remote. A
photo is athttp://www.gavelcade.com/opener.jpg.
I'm supposing that the upper part, the part that's opened out in the
photo, is the radio. The pushbutton is underneath it. If I snip the two
red wires, will that deactivate the radio while leaving the pushbutton
operational?
Is there any reason why what I'm trying to do won't work?
My door used to open by itself, like when the weather changed or it
got hot, it was only the travel adjustment , this was what was
recommended I try from Tech support which guided me through the
adjustment. I bet your issue is not the remote but something else like
mine.

Same here. Old garage, old concrete floor that is cracked -up/down-
with weather changes. Had to ease off the down limit pressure.

Wow. If that's the problem, then replacing the remote sure won't fix it.
But, um--what does a travel adjustment look like? It's an old Sears
opener; I wouldn't know whom to call for tech support.

"Harlan Messinger" wrote

Wow. If that's the problem, then replacing the remote sure won't fix it.
But, um--what does a travel adjustment look like? It's an old Sears
opener; I wouldn't know whom to call for tech support.

There are two travel adjustments, one for up, one for down. They are either
a knob or a screw that must be turned. They should be marked.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"Harlan Messinger" wrote

Wow. If that's the problem, then replacing the remote sure won't fix
it. But, um--what does a travel adjustment look like? It's an old
Sears opener; I wouldn't know whom to call for tech support.

There are two travel adjustments, one for up, one for down. They are
either a knob or a screw that must be turned. They should be marked.

Thanks to you and everyone, this confirms what I just found: there's a
website at www.hammerwall.com that has all kinds of product manuals
stored as PDFs. For my opener it has the following. Now I wish I hadn't
spent money on the new remote (which I've already completely removed
from the box).

ADJUST DOOR FORCE: Determine that door force is not excessive
in down direction.. Grasp the door handle or the bottom
of the door as it is about halfway through downward travel.
Normally the door should reverse by this action.
If it is hard to hold, or doesn't reverse, loosen the clown force
screw one turn at a time until the door reverses normally. This
means it will not reverse at the end of a travel cycle, and will
reverse when moderately obstructed.
A. Adjustment screws are near center of upper chassis flanges
as illustrated. "Close" force screw is on the right sicle (facing
door)° "Open" force screw is on left side. Refer to
labels next to screws. Turn clockwise by half turns until
door opens and closes without reversing
B Tighten adjustment screws an added half turn to allow for
climatic changes.

On May 9, 7:13*am, Harlan Messinger
wrote:
Harry K wrote:
On May 8, 7:16 pm, ransley wrote:
On May 8, 6:51 pm, Harlan Messinger

wrote:
Because, even though I've changed the remote code a couple of times, my
garage door has recently opened "by itself" several times, I bought a
Genie Intellicode replacement remote opener. I'm supposed to deactivate
the current radio. My current apparatus is combined Sears unit with a
button to open the door directly and a radio to respond to the remote.. A
photo is athttp://www.gavelcade.com/opener.jpg.
I'm supposing that the upper part, the part that's opened out in the
photo, is the radio. The pushbutton is underneath it. If I snip the two
red wires, will that deactivate the radio while leaving the pushbutton
operational?
Is there any reason why what I'm trying to do won't work?
My door used to open by itself, like when the weather changed or it
got hot, it was only the travel adjustment , this was what was
recommended I try from Tech support which guided me through the
adjustment. I bet your issue is not the remote but something else like
mine.

Same here. *Old garage, old concrete floor that is cracked -up/down-
with weather changes. *Had to ease off the down limit pressure.

Wow. If that's the problem, then replacing the remote sure won't fix it.
But, um--what does a travel adjustment look like? It's an old Sears
opener; I wouldn't know whom to call for tech support.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mine had maybe 3 adjustments, up and down travel and force, I forget
what I adjusted but it worked. For years this would happen usually on
the hottest days maybe once a week or month. One other thing ive had
happen is a sticking remote, when it sticks it reopens when I leave,
luckily mine has a light on the remote so now I check to be sure the
light is off, I used to keep it attached to the visor but I cant see
the light when its on the visor so now I just put it in a dash holder
and pull it out so I can see the Led light. Going out of adjustment is
common as structures setttle, hinges, door pins age and expand and
contract in different weather

"Harlan Messinger" wrote in message
...


Thanks to you and everyone, this confirms what I just found: there's a
website at www.hammerwall.com that has all kinds of product manuals
stored as PDFs. For my opener it has the following. Now I wish I hadn't
spent money on the new remote (which I've already completely removed
from the box).

The newer style remote is good for several reasons. First the newer style
gives you greater security, and a lot of newer cars come with built in
remotes that the new reciever can be trained to use. So if you end up with
one of those cars someday you can forget about clamping the remote to you
visor.

Also the newer style has accessories like wireless outside coded remotes
where you can punch in a code and open your door, very convinent if you want
to put away the lawnmower or forget your house keys.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

On May 12, 1:17*pm, "Roger Shoaf" wrote:
"Harlan Messinger" wrote in message

...



Thanks to you and everyone, this confirms what I just found: there's a
website atwww.hammerwall.comthat has all kinds of product manuals
stored as PDFs. For my opener it has the following. Now I wish I hadn't
spent money on the new remote (which I've already completely removed
from the box).

The newer style remote is good for several reasons. *First the newer style
gives you greater security, and a lot of newer cars come with built in
remotes that the new reciever can be trained to use. *So if you end up with
one of those cars someday you can forget about clamping the remote to you
visor.

Also the newer style has accessories like wireless outside coded remotes
where you can punch in a code and open your door, very convinent if you want
to put away the lawnmower or forget your house keys.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

The built in remotes have been able to be cross programmed for
probably 26 years as in my case with the Chamberlin. That built in car
remote can also be cross programmed to do X10 and probably Smart Home.
Ive had the built in GM remote controlling outdoor floods since maybe
1984, you could have the car remote turn on interior house lights, a
radio or coffee maker if you wanted, not that a coffee maker is going
to help any, but for security turning on extra lights is great. If his
is a 3 unit its easy to do from the car, but maybe even 2 button units
might have some options since X10 is just RF signal.