My house which is 40 years old has 1/2" copper lines for the water
feeds. I have a submersed well pump and a bladder tank who's pressure
guage reads 30psi. I also have an exchange filter and a cartridge
filter in line and I've tested with both of them bypassed with
negligible differences. My pump was replaced 10 years ago and the
pressure tank sooner. The pump seems to cycle normally as it has in
the past. I've also checked the air pressure in the tank and it is at
spec.

My measured flow at several faucets is now at 1.6 GPM and I have
noticed a reduced pressure/rate over the past year.

So, my questions to those who know - what/where can I look or do to
diagnose and/or improve this situation? I am reluctant to bring in
a contractor at this point because of economic reasons. What might
my options be?

Thanks all.

On Apr 10, 11:12*am, bobmct wrote:
My house which is 40 years old has 1/2" copper lines for the water
feeds. *I have a submersed well pump and a bladder tank who's pressure
guage reads 30psi. *I also have an exchange filter and a cartridge
filter in line and I've tested with both of them bypassed with
negligible differences. *My pump was replaced 10 years ago and the
pressure tank sooner. * The pump seems to cycle normally as it has in
the past. *I've also checked the air pressure in the tank and it is at
spec.

My measured flow at several faucets is now at 1.6 GPM and I have
noticed a reduced pressure/rate over the past year.

So, my questions to those who know - what/where can I look or do to
diagnose and/or improve this situation? * *I am reluctant to bring in
a contractor at this point because of economic reasons. * What might
my options be?

Thanks all.


Normal system pressure is usually in the range of 45-65 or so. You
can adjust it via the pressure switch that is typically located at the
bladder tank. Easy to find, just follow the wiring. Usually there
is a diagram under the cover that shows the adjustment screws and
process. Mine has two spring loaded screws. Adjusting one moves
both the cut-in and cut-out pressure. Moving the other only affects
one, think it's the cut-out, but not sure without looking. You
probably want about 20lbs diff between cut-in and out. You want the
bladder in the tank pressurized to 2lbs less than the cut-in
pressure. For safety, shut off the breaker before doing the adjusting
as their are live contacts in there.

On Apr 10, 1:26*pm, wrote:
On Apr 10, 11:12*am, bobmct wrote:





My house which is 40 years old has 1/2" copper lines for the water
feeds. *I have a submersed well pump and a bladder tank who's pressure
gauge reads 30psi. *I also have an exchange filter and a cartridge
filter in line and I've tested with both of them bypassed with
negligible differences. *My pump was replaced 10 years ago and the
pressure tank sooner. * The pump seems to cycle normally as it has in
the past. *I've also checked the air pressure in the tank and it is at
spec.

My measured flow at several faucets is now at 1.6 GPM and I have
noticed a reduced pressure/rate over the past year.

So, my questions to those who know - what/where can I look or do to
diagnose and/or improve this situation? * *I am reluctant to bring in
a contractor at this point because of economic reasons. * What might
my options be?

Thanks all.

Normal system pressure is usually in the range of 45-65 or so. * You
can adjust it via the pressure switch that is typically located at the
bladder tank. *Easy to find, just follow the wiring. * *Usually there
is a diagram under the cover that shows the adjustment screws and
process. * Mine has two spring loaded screws. *Adjusting one moves
both the cut-in and cut-out pressure. *Moving the other only affects
one, think it's the cut-out, but not sure without looking. *You
probably want about 20lbs diff between cut-in and out. * *You want the
bladder in the tank pressurized to 2lbs less than the cut-in
pressure. *For safety, shut off the breaker before doing the adjusting
as their are live contacts in there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree; we used cut-in 20psi. Cut-out 40psi. Normally never needed
adjusting.
Seem to recall replacing switch contacts of pressure switch once in 20
years that we used well water. Didn't have a bladder tank, just plain
steel.
Maybe OP has broken/perforated bladder inside tank?

On Apr 10, 10:09*am, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 11:12:40 -0400, bobmct
wrote:





My house which is 40 years old has 1/2" copper lines for the water
feeds. *I have a submersed well pump and a bladder tank who's pressure
guage reads 30psi. *I also have an exchange filter and a cartridge
filter in line and I've tested with both of them bypassed with
negligible differences. *My pump was replaced 10 years ago and the
pressure tank sooner. * The pump seems to cycle normally as it has in
the past. *I've also checked the air pressure in the tank and it is at
spec.

My measured flow at several faucets is now at 1.6 GPM and I have
noticed a reduced pressure/rate over the past year.

So, my questions to those who know - what/where can I look or do to
diagnose and/or improve this situation? * *I am reluctant to bring in
a contractor at this point because of economic reasons. * What might
my options be?

Thanks all.

I've seen older homes that had steel or iron pipe from the well into
the house. That pipe eventually becomes more and more restricted with
rust and sediment buildup. In one house like that, the water at the
taps was reduced to a trickle, and the owner thought he was looking at
replacing all the plumbing in the house. I replaced about 4 feet of
iron pipe where it came into the house and all was good.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Restrictd flow due to obstructed pipes _prior_ to the tank will only
be in effect when the pump is running. It won't effect anything if
the pump is off as the pressure tank will be providing normal
pressure. Reduced flow at all times has to be after the tank.

Harry K

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 11:12:40 -0400, bobmct
wrote Re water pressure questions?:

So, my questions to those who know - what/where can I look or do to
diagnose and/or improve this situation? I am reluctant to bring in
a contractor at this point because of economic reasons. What might
my options be?

I would try to tap into the pressure tank output and measure the
outflow there. If you get significantly more than 1.6gpm, then you
know there is an obstruction someplace after the tank, and you will
have to track it down from there.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.