On Apr 10, 1:26*pm, wrote:
On Apr 10, 11:12*am, bobmct wrote:





My house which is 40 years old has 1/2" copper lines for the water
feeds. *I have a submersed well pump and a bladder tank who's pressure
gauge reads 30psi. *I also have an exchange filter and a cartridge
filter in line and I've tested with both of them bypassed with
negligible differences. *My pump was replaced 10 years ago and the
pressure tank sooner. * The pump seems to cycle normally as it has in
the past. *I've also checked the air pressure in the tank and it is at
spec.

My measured flow at several faucets is now at 1.6 GPM and I have
noticed a reduced pressure/rate over the past year.

So, my questions to those who know - what/where can I look or do to
diagnose and/or improve this situation? * *I am reluctant to bring in
a contractor at this point because of economic reasons. * What might
my options be?

Thanks all.

Normal system pressure is usually in the range of 45-65 or so. * You
can adjust it via the pressure switch that is typically located at the
bladder tank. *Easy to find, just follow the wiring. * *Usually there
is a diagram under the cover that shows the adjustment screws and
process. * Mine has two spring loaded screws. *Adjusting one moves
both the cut-in and cut-out pressure. *Moving the other only affects
one, think it's the cut-out, but not sure without looking. *You
probably want about 20lbs diff between cut-in and out. * *You want the
bladder in the tank pressurized to 2lbs less than the cut-in
pressure. *For safety, shut off the breaker before doing the adjusting
as their are live contacts in there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree; we used cut-in 20psi. Cut-out 40psi. Normally never needed
adjusting.
Seem to recall replacing switch contacts of pressure switch once in 20
years that we used well water. Didn't have a bladder tank, just plain
steel.
Maybe OP has broken/perforated bladder inside tank?