I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...russ-web-2.jpg

"Steve McElrath" wrote in message
...
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...russ-web-2.jpg

Never dealt with it as a truss. I have encountered something close as a
rafter.

If it were mine, I would sister on both sides the full length of the run and
call it done. I would use a lot of nails or screws and stagger them.

Colbyt

On Apr 9, 6:54*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"Steve McElrath" wrote in message

...

I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. *It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...

Never dealt with it as a truss. *I have encountered something close as a
rafter.

If it were mine, I would sister on both sides the full length of the run and
call it done. I would use a lot of nails or screws and stagger them.

Colbyt

I agree with Colby, wouldn't hurt to add construction adhesive as you
proposed.

On Apr 9, 6:19*pm, "Steve McElrath" wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. *It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

snip

The construction adhesive (assuming good quality) will do more for
strength than a whole bunch of screws or nails. In fact to do a
superior job, the sistered stud needs to be well clamped in place
before any fasteners are used. For fasteners some prefer ring shanked
nails or star head construction screws.

Joe

hr(bob) wrote the following:
On Apr 9, 6:54 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:

"Steve McElrath" wrote in message

...


I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...

Never dealt with it as a truss. I have encountered something close as a
rafter.

If it were mine, I would sister on both sides the full length of the run and
call it done. I would use a lot of nails or screws and stagger them.

Colbyt


I agree with Colby, wouldn't hurt to add construction adhesive as you
proposed.

....and lag bolts instead of screws.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 14:42:10 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 10:30:35 -0700 (PDT), terry
wrote:

although ponder on why it broke!.

If there is no knot right there you have a valid question. If there is
a knot there the truss manufacturer has a serious quality control
issue.
Was there any evidence of a roof impact? Did something happen in the
attic?
What do the connecting plates look like? Any signs of a lateral
impact?

I saw a house some years ago. The header beam across the garage double
door was poured concrete and after years it failed. About the center
it collapsed. You could see a "cup" in the roof. Didn't get to see the
attic, but the contractor was "thinking" there would be rafter damage.
Nothing hit the house, the beam just failed one day.

On Apr 10, 12:19�am, "Steve McElrath"
wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. �It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...

Be sure to clean off any dirt before applying the glue. Wire (hand)
brush & vacuum ceaner. Use as many G clamps as you can lay your hands
on. Put a piece on each side of the same size as your truss extending
at least two feet beyond the break each way. When it's clamped up
good and tight, then put the screws in, both sides. Leave the clamps
on for a week.
Your repair splices need to have no knots & be decent timber. Water
poof/resisting glue would be best.
Your truss may have been broken since the house was constructed.
"Shakes" (cracks) in the timber can open up as the timber dries.
Shakes are caused when the tree hits the ground when it's felled.

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:57:48 -0400, willshak
wrote:

hr(bob) wrote the following:
On Apr 9, 6:54 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:

"Steve McElrath" wrote in message

...


I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...

Never dealt with it as a truss. I have encountered something close as a
rafter.

If it were mine, I would sister on both sides the full length of the run and
call it done. I would use a lot of nails or screws and stagger them.

Colbyt


I agree with Colby, wouldn't hurt to add construction adhesive as you
proposed.

...and lag bolts instead of screws.
No - do NOT use lag bolts. Many screws in a roughly 2 or 3 inch grid
will hold more and weaken the structure less than larger lag screws. I
would definitely also glue the joint - good carpenter's glue would be
adequate, and urethane glue like Gorilla Glue Or Leapages PL Premium
would be excellent. drill the sister plates ovesize for one screw
every 2 feet or so to pull the repair together firmly then drive the
remaining screws. Properly screwsd together clamping would be totally
redundant.

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 14:04:01 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 14:42:10 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 10:30:35 -0700 (PDT), terry
wrote:

although ponder on why it broke!.

If there is no knot right there you have a valid question. If there is
a knot there the truss manufacturer has a serious quality control
issue.
Was there any evidence of a roof impact? Did something happen in the
attic?
What do the connecting plates look like? Any signs of a lateral
impact?

I saw a house some years ago. The header beam across the garage double
door was poured concrete and after years it failed. About the center
it collapsed. You could see a "cup" in the roof. Didn't get to see the
attic, but the contractor was "thinking" there would be rafter damage.
Nothing hit the house, the beam just failed one day.
obvously not a properly re-enforced concrete.

On Apr 9, 7:19*pm, "Steve McElrath" wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. *It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...tructural_...A few years ago I

A few years ago I did a repair like this and contacted an engineer
buddy for advice. I placed strips of 1/2 plywood 8 ft long on either
side of the truss Plywood ran the length of the brace overlapping the
gussets.

Jimmie

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 21:18:22 -0400, wrote:

Nothing hit the house, the beam just failed one day.
obvously not a properly re-enforced concrete.

I like words like obvious, ordinarily and consequentially ..

Helps me describe it.

Thanks to all for the advice. I am inclined to believe that the break
occurred long ago, since the crack is pretty dirty.

I've been looking for an excuse to buy more Jorgenson clamps.



"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 10, 12:19�am, "Steve McElrath"
wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. �It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some construction
adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...

Be sure to clean off any dirt before applying the glue. Wire (hand)
brush & vacuum ceaner. Use as many G clamps as you can lay your hands
on. Put a piece on each side of the same size as your truss extending
at least two feet beyond the break each way. When it's clamped up
good and tight, then put the screws in, both sides. Leave the clamps
on for a week.
Your repair splices need to have no knots & be decent timber. Water
poof/resisting glue would be best.
Your truss may have been broken since the house was constructed.
"Shakes" (cracks) in the timber can open up as the timber dries.
Shakes are caused when the tree hits the ground when it's felled.

Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof truss.
Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...russ-web-2.jpg



I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything to
it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and glue!
After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister the
other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.

Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...russ-web-2.jpg



I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything to
it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and glue!
After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister the
other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.

Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff legs
between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken piece.
Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work on a
load-bearing partition. Either switch the broken board out and use new
nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement, remove
broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if needed to
get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a saber saw
and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and put it back
with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction adhesive to
position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used to see
similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an HVAC guy
butchered trusses to install something.

--
aem sends...

On Apr 11, 9:23*am, aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. *It didn't look too new..

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_....

I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything to
it. *I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and glue!
*After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister the
other side. *Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.

Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. *Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff legs
between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken piece.
Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work on a
load-bearing partition. *Either switch the broken board out and use new
nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement, remove
broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if needed to
get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a saber saw
and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and put it back
with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction adhesive to
position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used to see
similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an HVAC guy
butchered trusses to install something.

--
aem sends...

The easiest thing to do if its broken like the OP showed in the
picture is to just take that part out an replace it. There is no load
on the thing.

Jimmie

aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...russ-web-2.jpg



I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything
to it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and
glue! After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister
the other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.

Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff legs
between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken piece.
Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work on a
load-bearing partition. Either switch the broken board out and use new
nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement, remove
broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if needed to
get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a saber saw
and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and put it back
with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction adhesive to
position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used to see
similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an HVAC guy
butchered trusses to install something.

Well you mention some type of lever or jack, that sounds fine but until
now no one mentioned pulling the broken joist together before sistering
it. Maybe just a strong ratchet strap would pull it together? Whatever
works. Just do it BEFORE sistering it!

Tony wrote:
aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...russ-web-2.jpg



I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything
to it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and
glue! After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister
the other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.

Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff
legs between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken
piece. Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work
on a load-bearing partition. Either switch the broken board out and
use new nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement,
remove broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if
needed to get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a
saber saw and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and
put it back with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction
adhesive to position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used
to see similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an
HVAC guy butchered trusses to install something.

Well you mention some type of lever or jack, that sounds fine but until
now no one mentioned pulling the broken joist together before sistering
it. Maybe just a strong ratchet strap would pull it together? Whatever
works. Just do it BEFORE sistering it!

Before I did that I would make 2 cuts through the break about 1" apart
so the two pieces do not touch when pulled back into place. When you get
the correct length temporarily screw a 2x2 on the top side of both
halves to keep the truss true (keeping the ratchet strap in place).

Once you sister the truss on both sides (glue it and screw it) you can
remove the 2x2 and strap... and Bob's your uncle!

JIMMIE wrote:
On Apr 11, 9:23 am, aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.
Anyone ever dealt with this?
Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.
This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.
http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...
I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything to
it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and glue!
After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister the
other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.
Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff legs
between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken piece.
Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work on a
load-bearing partition. Either switch the broken board out and use new
nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement, remove
broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if needed to
get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a saber saw
and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and put it back
with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction adhesive to
position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used to see
similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an HVAC guy
butchered trusses to install something.

--
aem sends...

The easiest thing to do if its broken like the OP showed in the
picture is to just take that part out an replace it. There is no load
on the thing.

Jimmie

What? No load? If there were no load on it the broken ends would be
together and this thread never would have started.

Ned Flanders wrote:
Tony wrote:
aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.

Anyone ever dealt with this?

Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.

This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.

http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...russ-web-2.jpg




I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything
to it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and
glue! After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister
the other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.

Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff
legs between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken
piece. Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work
on a load-bearing partition. Either switch the broken board out and
use new nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement,
remove broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if
needed to get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a
saber saw and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and
put it back with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction
adhesive to position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used
to see similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an
HVAC guy butchered trusses to install something.

Well you mention some type of lever or jack, that sounds fine but until
now no one mentioned pulling the broken joist together before sistering
it. Maybe just a strong ratchet strap would pull it together? Whatever
works. Just do it BEFORE sistering it!

Before I did that I would make 2 cuts through the break about 1" apart
so the two pieces do not touch when pulled back into place. When you get
the correct length temporarily screw a 2x2 on the top side of both
halves to keep the truss true (keeping the ratchet strap in place).

Once you sister the truss on both sides (glue it and screw it) you can
remove the 2x2 and strap... and Bob's your uncle!

Sounds good to me. Without cutting a section out it is doubtful the
ends would perfectly mate again.

Tony wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
On Apr 11, 9:23 am, aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.
Anyone ever dealt with this?
Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.
This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.
http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...

I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering anything to
it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and glue!
After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister the
other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.
Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff legs
between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken piece.
Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work on a
load-bearing partition. Either switch the broken board out and use new
nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement, remove
broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if needed to
get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a saber saw
and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and put it back
with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction adhesive to
position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used to see
similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an HVAC guy
butchered trusses to install something.

--
aem sends...

The easiest thing to do if its broken like the OP showed in the
picture is to just take that part out an replace it. There is no load
on the thing.

Jimmie

What? No load? If there were no load on it the broken ends would be
together and this thread never would have started.

Load like in a windstorm or after a foot of snow in winter, or after the
roofers dropped a whole skid of shingles right there. On a calm day,
that strut is mainly holding the ceiling up below it. Trusses are so the
rafters and ceiling joists can be real puny, and you can skip having a
ridge beam. And mainly because they go up faster than a stick-built
roof, and you don't need an expert there every day.

--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
On Apr 11, 9:23 am, aemeijers wrote:
Tony wrote:
Steve McElrath wrote:
I was up in the attic today, and noticed that I had a broken roof
truss. Not sure how long it's been that way. It didn't look too new.
Anyone ever dealt with this?
Rather then replacing it, I was just thinking about sistering in (or
sandwiching it ) another 2x4 with some screws and maybe some
construction adhesive.
This pic I found is a pretty good likeness of it.
http://midfloridahomeinspectors.com/...ut/structural_...

I'd use some method of pulling it together before sistering
anything to
it. I'd probably get creative with some cable, eye hooks and a
turnbuckle to bring it together, then sister one side, screws and
glue!
After a few days I'd remove the cable if in the way then sister the
other side. Yes more small screws instead of less large ones.
Lordy. It is a residential roof truss, not a damn bridge. Some 2x4s
across adjacent trusses, top and bottom, and some hammered-in stiff
legs
between the 2x4s, and you can take all the load off the broken piece.
Same concept as making a temporary wall when you have to work on a
load-bearing partition. Either switch the broken board out and use new
nailers or gussets to tie it back in, or sister both sides.

I probably wouldn't even make it that complicated. Measure the same
piece on next truss over to get the length, cut the replacement, remove
broken piece, reinstall using some sort of lever or jack if needed to
get it back on the original mount points. I'd probably use a saber saw
and metal blade to cut away that part of nailer plates, and put it back
with oversize plywood gussets. A few dabs of construction adhesive to
position them, and then screw the hell out of them. I used to see
similar work done all the time down south, to repair where an HVAC guy
butchered trusses to install something.

--
aem sends...

The easiest thing to do if its broken like the OP showed in the
picture is to just take that part out an replace it. There is no load
on the thing.

Jimmie

What? No load? If there were no load on it the broken ends would be
together and this thread never would have started.

Load like in a windstorm or after a foot of snow in winter, or after the
roofers dropped a whole skid of shingles right there. On a calm day,
that strut is mainly holding the ceiling up below it. Trusses are so the
rafters and ceiling joists can be real puny, and you can skip having a
ridge beam. And mainly because they go up faster than a stick-built
roof, and you don't need an expert there every day.


If there were no load on it now, the broken ends would be together.