Well, I got a good deal on some "Tavern Grade" wood flooring that is 2
1/4 inches wide. It will go in my living room and butt against my 3
inch wide hardwood in the dining room. Any advice on how to install
this as I never hae before.

Also, thinking of investign in a nail gun. I see two types, an air
operated one and the type you hit with a hammer. Is one better than
the other. I see they have a reconditioned hamemr type on Amazon for
54.00. I can get an air one at harbor freight for 150 I think.

"stryped" wrote in message
...
Well, I got a good deal on some "Tavern Grade" wood flooring that is 2
1/4 inches wide. It will go in my living room and butt against my 3
inch wide hardwood in the dining room. Any advice on how to install
this as I never hae before.

Also, thinking of investign in a nail gun. I see two types, an air
operated one and the type you hit with a hammer. Is one better than
the other. I see they have a reconditioned hamemr type on Amazon for
54.00. I can get an air one at harbor freight for 150 I think.

It's impossible to say how to treat where your new floor will butt against
the old one without knowing the overall layout. Answers could vary from
starting at that point and butting it up against it cleanly to finishing
there with a seam binder strip. Layout questions: are there any setbacks
in the room that can affect where your start? Will you be reversing the
course anywhere? How square is the room (generally, you like to split the
difference, which won't be possible if you want to start by butting up
against existing). Also, are the two floors the same thickness or has the
original floor been sanded? Is the new floor a contrast to the existing, or
close? This and possibly the sheen on the finish could affect your decision
on whether to use a seam binder. Contrast is good. However, getting new
flooring that is 'pretty close' but yet different than the existing can look
awful (it'll look like you tried to match, but failed).

Nail gun. If this is your first and only installation, there's no need
to 'invest' in a nailgun. Rent a pneumatic from big blue or big orange. It
will allow you to lay flooring closer to the walls before you have to start
toe nailing and face nailing.

jc

On Mar 29, 7:38*am, "Joe" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...

Well, I got a good deal on some "Tavern Grade" wood flooring that is 2
1/4 inches wide. It will go in my living room and butt against my 3
inch wide hardwood in the dining room. Any advice on how to install
this as I never hae before.

Also, thinking of investign in a nail gun. I see two types, an air
operated one and the type you hit with a hammer. Is one better than
the other. I see they have a reconditioned hamemr type on Amazon for
54.00. I can get an air one at harbor freight for 150 I think.

It's impossible to say how to treat where your new floor will butt against
the old one without knowing the overall layout. *Answers could vary from
starting at that point and butting it up against it cleanly to finishing
there with a seam binder strip. *Layout questions: *are there any setbacks
in the room that can affect where your start? *Will you be reversing the
course anywhere? *How square is the room (generally, you like to split the
difference, which won't be possible if you want to start by butting up
against existing). *Also, are the two floors the same thickness or has the
original floor been sanded? *Is the new floor a contrast to the existing, or
close? *This and possibly the sheen on the finish could affect your decision
on whether to use a seam binder. *Contrast is good. However, getting new
flooring that is 'pretty close' but yet different than the existing can look
awful (it'll look like you tried to match, but failed).

*Nail gun. *If this is your first and only installation, there's no need
to 'invest' in a nailgun. *Rent a pneumatic from big blue or big orange.. *It
will allow you to lay flooring closer to the walls before you have to start
toe nailing and face nailing.

jc

Room is basically a square but there is a marble square in front of my
fireplace in the floor. Exisiting flooring is the same height and
never been sanded. Finish is similar but not exactly. The old floor is
3 inches and new floorign will be 2 1/4. I can take pictures. My idea
was to take basboards off, start at the wall next to the existing
hardwood and work from there.

My idea on buying was because I am slow and it may take me forever to
do this. (Hence renting out of the question).

ANy advice is appreciated! I am gettign the wood for free except for
having to buy a few boxes to have enough.

My idea on buying was because I am slow and it may take me forever to
do this. (Hence renting out of the question).

ANy advice is appreciated! I am gettign the wood for free except for
having to buy a few boxes to have enough.

If you rent (or buy) a manual nailer, get the Porta-Nailer, not Bosch.

When you whack a nailer with a hammer, the force pushes down a ram; the
ram hits the head of a cleat (nail) and drives it into the wood. With the
Bosch, you get exactly *one* chance to drive the cleat because the ram
springs back up. With the Porta-Nailer the ram stays down until the cleat
is driven home; that means you can whack it as many times as necessary to
drive the cleat. Believe me, unless you are a pro, you are not going to
drive many cleats with one whack.

--

All the more reason to rent a pneumatic.

Even if you keep it for a few days, it'll still be (a lot) cheaper than
buying.

I wouldn't suggest the manual for any first-timers.

jc

On Mar 29, 1:06*pm, "Joe" wrote:
My idea on buying was because I am slow and it may take me forever to
do this. (Hence renting out of the question).

ANy advice is appreciated! I am gettign the wood for free except for
having to buy a few boxes to have enough.

If you rent (or buy) a manual nailer, get the Porta-Nailer, not Bosch.

When you whack a nailer with a hammer, the force pushes down a ram; the
ram hits the head of a cleat (nail) and drives it into the wood. *With the
Bosch, you get exactly *one* chance to drive the cleat because the ram
springs back up. *With the Porta-Nailer the ram stays down until the cleat
is driven home; that means you can whack it as many times as necessary to
drive the cleat. *Believe me, unless you are a pro, you are not going to
drive many cleats with one whack.

--

All the more reason to rent a pneumatic.

Even if you keep it for a few days, it'll still be (a lot) cheaper than
buying.

I wouldn't suggest the manual for any first-timers.

jc- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Is the pnematic hard to set up? Can my 5 horse craftsman do it?

Or would the porta nailer that willnot release until it is driven work
better.

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Mar 29, 1:06 pm, "Joe" wrote:
My idea on buying was because I am slow and it may take me forever to
do this. (Hence renting out of the question).

ANy advice is appreciated! I am gettign the wood for free except for
having to buy a few boxes to have enough.

If you rent (or buy) a manual nailer, get the Porta-Nailer, not Bosch.

When you whack a nailer with a hammer, the force pushes down a ram; the
ram hits the head of a cleat (nail) and drives it into the wood. With
the
Bosch, you get exactly *one* chance to drive the cleat because the ram
springs back up. With the Porta-Nailer the ram stays down until the
cleat
is driven home; that means you can whack it as many times as necessary
to
drive the cleat. Believe me, unless you are a pro, you are not going to
drive many cleats with one whack.

--

All the more reason to rent a pneumatic.

Even if you keep it for a few days, it'll still be (a lot) cheaper than
buying.

I wouldn't suggest the manual for any first-timers.

jc- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Is the pnematic hard to set up? Can my 5 horse craftsman do it?

Or would the porta nailer that willnot release until it is driven work
better.

*any* compressor that can compress air can keep up with one man on a
pneumatic. They just don't use that much air (I keep my reg set between 85
and 90 psi) and you're not shooting *that* fast....

something else to consider if you're thinking about the manual. with more
effort being made with the hammer strikes, you're more likely to tense up
your other arm (especially as you get tired, and you will) and not have the
nailer squared up at impact. This can lead to bruised edges and flaking
finish on pre-finished wood. BTDTGTT-S