Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

On Feb 11, 10:09*am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. *Choke is OK, full gas. *Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. *Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? *I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... *the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Most likely the main jet pickup is clogged. There a couple of ways the
gas gets from the float bowl to the venturi, either the jet is in the
bowl at the bottom of a tube (usually cast), or the cast tube has pin
holes below the fluid level and that channels it to the jet. You
should be able to remove the bowl (after turning off the fuel tank
tap) and clean the passages with a small wire, the wire inside a bag
tie works well.

On Feb 11, 10:09*am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. *Choke is OK, full gas. *Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. *Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? *I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... *the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Do you run all small equipment dry of gas when you put it away, you
have to run them till the float bowl is empty, thats several runs
after you think its out of gas, last fall I put away a 1984 lawnboy as
weel as alot of other gas toys , never cleaned the carb, the only time
my carbs get messed up is when I leave gas in them. At Ace I saw my
store sold a gallon of carb boil just a strong solvent with a dipping
basket. Basicly remove the carb , dissasemble, and soak out the
varnished gas, get new gaskets if you need. Stabil helps and should be
used, but running the bowl empty is a guarntee for next year

On Feb 11, 11:25*am, ransley wrote:
On Feb 11, 10:09*am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:





Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. *Choke is OK, full gas. *Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. *Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? *I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... *the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Do you run all small equipment dry of gas when you put it away, you
have to run them till the float bowl is empty, thats several runs
after you think its out of gas, last fall I put away a 1984 lawnboy as
weel as alot of other gas toys , never cleaned the carb, the only time
my carbs get messed up is when I leave gas in them. At Ace I saw my
store sold a gallon of carb boil just a strong solvent with a dipping
basket. Basicly remove the carb , dissasemble, and soak out the
varnished gas, get new gaskets if you need. Stabil helps and should be
used, but running the bowl empty is a guarntee for next year- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.
But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others here,
why should I?

wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:37:51 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Feb 11, 11:25 am, ransley wrote:
On Feb 11, 10:09 am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:





Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly
be re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue
moon it would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
which would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the
running engine couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be
rebuilding innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to
fix "the fixable", and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the
local tool rental place, that fixes small engines all the time,
couldn't get that thing to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I
thought it was electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Do you run all small equipment dry of gas when you put it away, you
have to run them till the float bowl is empty, thats several runs
after you think its out of gas, last fall I put away a 1984 lawnboy
as
weel as alot of other gas toys , never cleaned the carb, the only
time
my carbs get messed up is when I leave gas in them. At Ace I saw my
store sold a gallon of carb boil just a strong solvent with a
dipping
basket. Basicly remove the carb , dissasemble, and soak out the
varnished gas, get new gaskets if you need. Stabil helps and should
be
used, but running the bowl empty is a guarntee for next year- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.
But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others
here, why should I?

Amen


Hey SaltyAss, what were we fighting about, inyway?
Was it the climb/conventional cutting you couldn't grok?
Hmmm...... I know that was Ricodjour..... oh yeah, and ****tyTwo.....

Hmmm...... What was it???

Oh yeah, *you* had that big problem believing that 3 Sears hp = 1 Porter
Cable hp.... you wanted cites'n'****, right?

And then you couldn't unnerstand my repeat of my old locked rotor current
speriment, this time on a "6.0 hp" Rigid/Sears blowVac..... which ackshooly
generates a good bit less than 1 hp...... I guess you wanted *more*
cites'n'****.....

BUT, you do recall -- assuming that I wadn't lying -- that the LRC current
DID sort of calc out to 5-6 hp, right?

You still mad?? Didja wind up learning anything????
--
EA

wrote in
:

On Feb 11, 11:25*am, ransley wrote:
On Feb 11, 10:09*am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:





Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly
be re-primed and started. *Choke is OK, full gas. *Once in a blue
moon
it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
whic
h
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. *Seems that the
running
engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? *I won't be
rebuil
ding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the
fixable
",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... *the
loc
al tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get
that
thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought
it
was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Do you run all small equipment dry of gas when you put it away, you
have to run them till the float bowl is empty, thats several runs
after you think its out of gas, last fall I put away a 1984 lawnboy
as weel as alot of other gas toys , never cleaned the carb, the only
time my carbs get messed up is when I leave gas in them. At Ace I saw
my store sold a gallon of carb boil just a strong solvent with a
dipping basket. Basicly remove the carb , dissasemble, and soak out
the varnished gas, get new gaskets if you need. Stabil helps and
should be used, but running the bowl empty is a guarntee for next
year- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -


Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.
But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others here,
why should I?

More payback.

What goes around comes around - good and bad.

On Feb 11, 12:24*pm, Van Chocstraw
wrote:
ransley wrote:
On Feb 11, 10:09 am, "Existential
wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. *Choke is OK, full gas. *Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. *Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? *I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... *the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Do you run all small equipment dry of gas when you put it away, you
have to run them till the float bowl is empty, thats several runs
after you think its out of gas, last fall I put away a 1984 lawnboy as
weel as alot of other gas toys , never cleaned the carb, the only time
my carbs get messed up is when I leave gas in them. At Ace I saw my
store sold a gallon of carb boil just a strong solvent with a dipping
basket. Basicly remove the carb , dissasemble, and soak out the
varnished gas, get new gaskets if you need. Stabil helps and should be
used, but running the bowl empty is a guarntee for next year

That's a bunch of crap. I leave gas in mine and never have trouble.
The REAL trouble is *most people let crap *from on top of the gas can
fall into the gas tank and frig it up all time. 99.99 times our of 100
it's the crap you dumped into the tank that is your problem. The rest of
the time it's that the gas in your supply can is already 2 years old
when you put it in and you let it sit another year in the tank.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

His problem does sound like a clogged main jet.

The trouble with small engine carbs depends on how they are set up. A
lot of the smaller 2 stroke engines don't have anything a float bowl
so as long as the gas in the tank is good they usually work. If there
is a float bowl leaving the gas on prevents it from drying out
completely. But float bowl carbs do accumulate crud either way if
they are left sitting for extended periods because they vent to the
atmosphere. Most of my stuff works fine left alone but I have a 4
stroke 8hp generator that likes to have it's gas turned off and run
out of the carb. If I don't do that then the main jet gets deposits
on it that reduce the flow. If I don't it only runs with the choke on
and I have to remove the bowl and clean the main jet.

Could it be ice???
I trashed one and the ten year old next door put dyr gas in it and
wanted $20.00 to do my drive.
He's $20.00 richer !!!

Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage



http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/1974RuppCentair

wrote in message
...
On Feb 11, 11:25 am, ransley wrote:
On Feb 11, 10:09 am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.

But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others here,
why should I?

Chances are he does'nt actually have a problem with his snowblower, if he
even has a snowblower. I would'nt bother to feed that
troll.............................

Existential Angst wrote the following:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

The other day I tried to start my 5500 watt portable generator. I didn't
need it at the time, but was just starting it in case I did need it
later during the snow storm.
My generator is stored outside in the weather with a custom cover for it
to keep rain and snow off it.
I opened the gas valve, turned the switch on, and set the choke. I
pulled and pulled, but could not get it to start for the life of me,
whether it was full choke, half choke, or no choke. I sprayed some
starter fluid into the air cleaner and it would run until it burned up
the fluid and then died. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times with the fluid
with the same results. I.figured it may have had ice in the tank or
something clogging the gas line. I took a heat gun to the bottom of the
tank where the fuel lever and fuel line comes out. I started up the heat
gun and put my hand on the fuel lever and gas line in order to judge the
distance for the heat gun, so I didn't burn the valve or line. A few
minutes of heat later, I gave it some more starting fluid and tried it
again and the generator started right up I don't know what the problem
was, but warming the fuel lever and line seemed to have solved the
problem, or maybe it didn't and the gererator just decided to start.


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:

Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon
it would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
which would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the
running engine couldn't draw it's own gas.

Many of these small engine carbs have a built in fuel pump which
consists of a diaphram that is driven by the pressure variations
(pulses) in the intake manifold.

If that diaphram is cracked or there's a vacuum leak in that system,
it won't pump its own gas. It will appear to run when primed, but that
won't last long.

A carb rebuild kit should have the parts to remedy this problem.

Yeah, there is a linkage that kind of pulses as the load changes. Off the
carb, I can't quite see what it is linked to, tho, but I'll find out.

I can see a lot of small parts covering my workbench in my future....

I'm ackshooly perty terrified of carburetors... I feel the angst
building.....
--
EA

Existential Angst wrote:
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon
it would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
which would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the
running engine couldn't draw it's own gas.
Many of these small engine carbs have a built in fuel pump which
consists of a diaphram that is driven by the pressure variations
(pulses) in the intake manifold.

If that diaphram is cracked or there's a vacuum leak in that system,
it won't pump its own gas. It will appear to run when primed, but that
won't last long.

A carb rebuild kit should have the parts to remedy this problem.

Yeah, there is a linkage that kind of pulses as the load changes. Off the
carb, I can't quite see what it is linked to, tho, but I'll find out.

I can see a lot of small parts covering my workbench in my future....

I'm ackshooly perty terrified of carburetors... I feel the angst
building.....

Our Briggs & Stratton powered generator sometimes sticks at full
throttle after a couple years of non-use. I looked at all the levers and
rods and linkages to the carb, and decided to WD-40 one that wasn't
moving. It was the rpm governor. Unsticking it fixes the problem.

Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.


Common problem. If you can prime it and it starts but doesn't rum you
have a clogged main jet.

Take a picture of the governor linkage and the way it is installed. Pull
the carb of and get a rebuild kit for it. Then visit a local NAPA or
better parts store and get a carb cleaner basket with solvent. Pull the
carb apart and soak it in the tank. Write down the number of turns on
each needle unless you want to play for a while. Make SURE you check it
for any plastic/rubber hidden parts first. Some use rubber seals around
the shafts and you don't want those to get in the solvent. Pull the carb
out and use air to blow the passages clean. Make sure you blow OPPOSITE
the fuel flow. IE: on the jets blow from inside the carb out the jet.
Put the carb together with the new parts and set the needles. Put it
back on and run it.
Add a small inline filter if it doesn't have one already. Then use GOOD
gas and stabil. When you finish running it at the end of the day shut
off the gas and run the carb down. You won't get all the gas out but it
will be clear of the jets.

--
Steve W.

On Feb 11, 11:09�am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. �Choke is OK, full gas. �Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. �Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? �I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... �the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Because it starts up and runs for a few seconds, that tells me that
the compression is good enough and that the coil is firing on time.
Now to fix it........

First change the plug. Some plugs can run fine until it reaches a
higher RPM. Since you said you could smell the gas, that is also a
sign it could be a "gas fouled" plug which may fire, but not
continuously.

If that dont' fix the problem, then move on to the fuel delivery
system. There is little use cleaning the carb if you don't clean the
tank and fuel lines too. Look in the tank and see if you see any
foreign material in it. If it is a metal tank, look closely for rust.
If there is rust, you must get that rust out or it will clog the carb
again. so, cleaning the carb only will be a waste of time. If there is
rust, remove the tank and take it to a radiator repair shop. They can
remove the rust. Call them first to make sure they do this. Some shops
only re-core, not clean anymore.

Good luck,

Hank

wrote:

-snip-


Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.
But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others here,
why should I?

Good on ya-- I don't think he's ever said anything to me- but I
killfiled him long ago for too much noise and nothing constructive.

Jim

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:06:28 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Common problem. If you can prime it and it starts but doesn't rum you
have a clogged main jet.

Take a picture of the governor linkage and the way it is installed. Pull
the carb of and get a rebuild kit for it. Then visit a local NAPA or
better parts store and get a carb cleaner basket with solvent. Pull the
carb apart and soak it in the tank. Write down the number of turns on
each needle unless you want to play for a while. Make SURE you check it
for any plastic/rubber hidden parts first. Some use rubber seals around
the shafts and you don't want those to get in the solvent. Pull the carb
out and use air to blow the passages clean. Make sure you blow OPPOSITE
the fuel flow. IE: on the jets blow from inside the carb out the jet.
Put the carb together with the new parts and set the needles. Put it
back on and run it.
Add a small inline filter if it doesn't have one already. Then use GOOD
gas and stabil. When you finish running it at the end of the day shut
off the gas and run the carb down. You won't get all the gas out but it
will be clear of the jets.

--
Steve W.

"Write down the number of turns on
each needle unless you want to play for a while."

First seat the screw by tightening it down (count). Maybe It is 1 3/4
turns or less - just enough to seat the screw. Remember that number.
Once cleaned, all dolled-up put the screw(s) in, tighten down and back
the off the partial turns. of 1 3/4 or less. Works every time for me.

" parts store and get a carb cleaner basket with solvent"

Let the carb soak over night in the basket of solvent. Works best.

Does it have a gravity feed? Does if have a blocked vent in the gas
cap?
Hand priming may be sufficient to deliver gas to the carb but a
blocked vent may prevent free flow.
Unscrew the cap and give it another try.

Do the cheap/easy stuff first and let us know the results.

Existential Angst wrote:
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon
it would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
which would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the
running engine couldn't draw it's own gas.
Many of these small engine carbs have a built in fuel pump which
consists of a diaphram that is driven by the pressure variations
(pulses) in the intake manifold.

If that diaphram is cracked or there's a vacuum leak in that system,
it won't pump its own gas. It will appear to run when primed, but that
won't last long.

A carb rebuild kit should have the parts to remedy this problem.

Yeah, there is a linkage that kind of pulses as the load changes. Off the
carb, I can't quite see what it is linked to, tho, but I'll find out.

I can see a lot of small parts covering my workbench in my future....

I'm ackshooly perty terrified of carburetors... I feel the angst
building.....

That's the governor linkage, don't mess with it, except to be sure it is
free to move,

You didn't say what make of engine you have, but if there's a float
bowl, (bottom of carb, held on by a small bolt, drop it, (Clamp fuel
feed line first) and look for goo. Give the whole area a good shot of
carb cleaner, check that the float moves freely, and that the float
hasn't got filled up with fuel. Put the bowl back on, making sure that
the rubber ring gasket isn't pinched or misplaced.

Try it.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:57:08 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Does it have a gravity feed? Does if have a blocked vent in the gas
cap?
Hand priming may be sufficient to deliver gas to the carb but a
blocked vent may prevent free flow.
Unscrew the cap and give it another try.

Do the cheap/easy stuff first and let us know the results.

If it runs with a loose gas cap then take a paper clip and clear the
cap vent. These vents do get clogged.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:09:32 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

Buy a can of "sea foam" fuel conditioner and follow the instructions.
Might be a good idea to start with a fresh tank of fuel - preferably
ethanol free (Shell Ultra in Canada is ethanol free)

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:25:08 -0500, Jeff The Drunk wrote:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:09:32 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Main jet clogged.
Or covered with water.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 12:24:16 -0500, Van Chocstraw
wrote:

ransley wrote:
On Feb 11, 10:09 am, "Existential
wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Do you run all small equipment dry of gas when you put it away, you
have to run them till the float bowl is empty, thats several runs
after you think its out of gas, last fall I put away a 1984 lawnboy as
weel as alot of other gas toys , never cleaned the carb, the only time
my carbs get messed up is when I leave gas in them. At Ace I saw my
store sold a gallon of carb boil just a strong solvent with a dipping
basket. Basicly remove the carb , dissasemble, and soak out the
varnished gas, get new gaskets if you need. Stabil helps and should be
used, but running the bowl empty is a guarntee for next year

That's a bunch of crap. I leave gas in mine and never have trouble.
The REAL trouble is most people let crap from on top of the gas can
fall into the gas tank and frig it up all time. 99.99 times our of 100
it's the crap you dumped into the tank that is your problem. The rest of
the time it's that the gas in your supply can is already 2 years old
when you put it in and you let it sit another year in the tank.


When I store my equipment for the season I store it with a FULL tank
of fresh gas. On equipment with a fuel shutoff I run the carb dry. My
lawn mower has a B&S engine with the carb IN the tank, so it does not
get drained. Winter storage is less problematic than summer storage
because chemical reactions slow down in the cold, and speed up with
heat. My old snowblower had a fuel shutoff (Tecumseh engine) - the
current machine does not (briggs engine). After sitting all summer it
started on the first pull.
Both machines (and all the rest of my equipment) lives inside, under
cover, to make sure no water gets into the tanks.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 14:55:41 -0500, (Jerry -
OHIO) wrote:

Could it be ice???
I trashed one and the ten year old next door put dyr gas in it and
wanted $20.00 to do my drive.
He's $20.00 richer !!!

Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage



http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/1974RuppCentair

20 DOLLARS richer this time - and every time he uses it for hire.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 13:11:52 -0700, "Paul Hovnanian P.E."
wrote:

Existential Angst wrote:

Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Many of these small engine carbs have a built in fuel pump which
consists of a diaphram that is driven by the pressure variations
(pulses) in the intake manifold.

If that diaphram is cracked or there's a vacuum leak in that system, it
won't pump its own gas. It will appear to run when primed, but that
won't last long.

A carb rebuild kit should have the parts to remedy this problem.


Being a "Sears" it most likely has a Tecumseh SnoKing H6 engine on it
- which does NOT have a fuel pump. Most common problem is moisture in
the gas - and the water blocking the main jet.. If at all possible, do
NOT use ethanol fuel. Use premium if that's the only way to ensure
getting ethanol free fuel. Premium will NOT hurt the engine, and runs
it just fine. (So does 100LL AvGas - but you can't just go and buy
that)

Fresh gas, drain the float bowl, and add some Sea Foam to the fuel to
clean up the carb.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:02:03 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:

Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon
it would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
which would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the
running engine couldn't draw it's own gas.

Many of these small engine carbs have a built in fuel pump which
consists of a diaphram that is driven by the pressure variations
(pulses) in the intake manifold.

If that diaphram is cracked or there's a vacuum leak in that system,
it won't pump its own gas. It will appear to run when primed, but that
won't last long.

A carb rebuild kit should have the parts to remedy this problem.

Yeah, there is a linkage that kind of pulses as the load changes. Off the
carb, I can't quite see what it is linked to, tho, but I'll find out.


That is called a governor.
I can see a lot of small parts covering my workbench in my future....

I'm ackshooly perty terrified of carburetors... I feel the angst
building.....


Just remove the float bowl and clean it. Drain all the old gas, and
start with fresh gas. DO NOT take the linkages apart if you are
unfamiliar with them. If you do, use your digital camera to document
exactly what it looks like at each stage of dissassembly.

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it
would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running
engine couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local
tool rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get
that thing to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA


You're right, that *is* funny.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:21:34 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:57:08 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Does it have a gravity feed? Does if have a blocked vent in the gas
cap?
Hand priming may be sufficient to deliver gas to the carb but a
blocked vent may prevent free flow.
Unscrew the cap and give it another try.

Do the cheap/easy stuff first and let us know the results.

If it runs with a loose gas cap then take a paper clip and clear the
cap vent. These vents do get clogged.
That's true - but almost universally they will start and run for some
time - longer with a low fuel level than with a full tank, before
quitting. Generally a plugged cap will start and idle, but will then
die, usually under load. Backfiring from running lean GENERALLY
precedes the quitting.
Still, worth checking.

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 15:27:49 -0800 (PST), "Hustlin' Hank"
wrote:

On Feb 11, 11:09?am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. ?Choke is OK, full gas. ?Once in a blue moon it would
run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. ?Seems that the running engine
couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? ?I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... ?the local tool
rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get that thing
to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

Because it starts up and runs for a few seconds, that tells me that
the compression is good enough and that the coil is firing on time.
Now to fix it........

First change the plug. Some plugs can run fine until it reaches a
higher RPM. Since you said you could smell the gas, that is also a
sign it could be a "gas fouled" plug which may fire, but not
continuously.

If that dont' fix the problem, then move on to the fuel delivery
system. There is little use cleaning the carb if you don't clean the
tank and fuel lines too. Look in the tank and see if you see any
foreign material in it. If it is a metal tank, look closely for rust.
If there is rust, you must get that rust out or it will clog the carb
again. so, cleaning the carb only will be a waste of time. If there is
rust, remove the tank and take it to a radiator repair shop. They can
remove the rust. Call them first to make sure they do this. Some shops
only re-core, not clean anymore.

Good luck,

Hank
Make certain that the vent hole in the gas cap isn't blocked.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

wrote:
Does it have a gravity feed? Does if have a blocked vent in the gas
cap?
Hand priming may be sufficient to deliver gas to the carb but a
blocked vent may prevent free flow.
Unscrew the cap and give it another try.

Do the cheap/easy stuff first and let us know the results.

Cheap/easy is good!!

But someone else mentioned a fuel pump....
How do I know if it's gravity feed or has a fuel pump?

A fuel pump.... goodgawd, perty soon g-d snow blowers will have ECU's,
OBDII's....
--
EA

Especially when it happens to someone such as....

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Joe" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst"
wrote in message
...


Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was
so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA


You're right, that *is* funny.

Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon
it would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
which would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the
running engine couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be
rebuilding innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix
"the fixable", and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the
local tool rental place, that fixes small engines all the time,
couldn't get that thing to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought
it was electric, from a distance.

Does it run okay with the gas cap removed?

If it has a Tecumseh engine, it might not be a carburetor problem at all. I
had similar problems one year and sent the blower in for service. Got it
back and had the same problem. Called a mobile small engine service and the
fellow replaced the plug, drained about half a cup of oil from the engine
and it ran like a top ever since. His advice was to never overfill a
Tecumseh engine with oil....even a little bit.

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon it
would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb, which
would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the running
engine couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be rebuilding
innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix "the fixable",
and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the local
tool rental place, that fixes small engines all the time, couldn't get
that thing to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA

willshak wrote in
m:

Existential Angst wrote the following:
Awl --

Always the carburetion, it seems.

Last snow, a month or so ago, ran fine, a Sears "6.0 hp" ditty.
Today, it would run for only 10 sec, and would have to constantly be
re-primed and started. Choke is OK, full gas. Once in a blue moon
it would run for a minute, but not under load.

I could actually sort of see the primed gas spill out of the carb,
which would apparently fuel the engine for a while. Seems that the
running engine couldn't draw it's own gas.

Idears?

Any links for how-to's on small gas engine repair? I won't be
rebuilding innards, but I would at least like to know when/how to fix
"the fixable", and when to just give up.

I gave away a fairly expensive Ariens, with carb problems... the
local tool rental place, that fixes small engines all the time,
couldn't get that thing to run right....

Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was so smooth I thought
it was electric, from a distance.

The other day I tried to start my 5500 watt portable generator. I
didn't need it at the time, but was just starting it in case I did
need it later during the snow storm.
My generator is stored outside in the weather with a custom cover for
it to keep rain and snow off it.
I opened the gas valve, turned the switch on, and set the choke. I
pulled and pulled, but could not get it to start for the life of me,
whether it was full choke, half choke, or no choke. I sprayed some
starter fluid into the air cleaner and it would run until it burned up
the fluid and then died. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times with the fluid
with the same results. I.figured it may have had ice in the tank or
something clogging the gas line. I took a heat gun to the bottom of
the tank where the fuel lever and fuel line comes out. I started up
the heat gun and put my hand on the fuel lever and gas line in order
to judge the distance for the heat gun, so I didn't burn the valve or
line. A few minutes of heat later, I gave it some more starting fluid
and tried it again and the generator started right up I don't know
what the problem was, but warming the fuel lever and line seemed to
have solved the problem, or maybe it didn't and the gererator just
decided to start.



My generator does that somewhat. It's a lever choke and no primer. It's
stored inside a shed and I only fire it up once every few months.

I pretty much bring the plug wrench by default, toss some gas in the
cylinder and it always starts. Of course, once it's run a bit it will
start normally. Since it always works, small inconvenience and I'm good
with it.

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

wrote:

-snip-


Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.
But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others here,
why should I?

Good on ya-- I don't think he's ever said anything to me- but I
killfiled him long ago for too much noise and nothing constructive.

Jim


Yea I think I did too. Have to check and see if KF expired. Just catch
quoted text within other people's posts.

Red Green wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

wrote:

-snip-


Having just gone through the problem on mine, I could offer advice.
But since EA likes to hurl insults at me and half a dozen others
here, why should I?

Good on ya-- I don't think he's ever said anything to me- but I
killfiled him long ago for too much noise and nothing constructive.

Jim


Yea I think I did too. Have to check and see if KF expired. Just catch
quoted text within other people's posts.

Do you all hold your breath until your faces turn blue, too?
Goodgawd, only assholes kill-file people... and the really big assholes then
brag about it.
Get an effing life, Red... this is the THIRD time you're picking a fight,
gratuitously.
--
EA

On Feb 12, 12:31*am, "Existential Angst"
wrote:
wrote:
Does it have a gravity feed? *Does if have a blocked vent in the gas
cap?
Hand priming may be sufficient to deliver gas to the carb but a
blocked vent may prevent free flow.
Unscrew the cap and give it another try.

Do the cheap/easy stuff first and let us know the results.

Cheap/easy is good!!

In EA's case, cheap/easy would be for him to hire someone to clean the
driveway for him.



But someone else mentioned a fuel pump....
How do I know if it's gravity feed or has a fuel pump?

A fuel pump.... *goodgawd, perty soon g-d snow blowers will have ECU's,
OBDII's....
--
EA

Better hope not, as obviously you are incapable of diagnosing a simple
one cylinder engine. And from the symptoms, there is a very high
probability that it all points to one thing. Several posters have
already explained it to you. Hint: It ain't a fuel pump.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Especially when it happens to someone such as....

Yeah, well, if I had 13 wives, the odds are that *one* of them would know
how fix small gas engines....
And another would likely know sumpn sumpn about hvac.....

Sheeit, Stormin, we cain't all be as lucky as you....
--
EA



--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Joe" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst"
wrote in message
...


Yet, I saw a guy today, with an Ariens that was
so smooth I thought it was
electric, from a distance.

--
EA


You're right, that *is* funny.