I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.


Jimmie

On Feb 6, 2:22*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

Can you use a large pwerful hand drill?

JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.


Jimmie


Try a length of small diameter cable with a loop in each end for
handles. I had one for cutting conduit. Example he
http://tinyurl.com/yz84mmu

On Feb 6, 3:42*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Feb 6, 2:22*pm, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

Can you use a large pwerful hand drill?

I dont know if I would get a good cut for putting the new coupling on.
I thought about that but I could kind of see that I might mess it up.


Jimmie

On Feb 6, 3:46*pm, Dean Hoffman wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

* * * Try a length of small diameter cable with a loop in each end for
handles. *I had one for cutting conduit. *Example he
* *http://tinyurl.com/yz84mmu

Thanks but the pipe has to be cut from the inside.


Jimmie

JIMMIE wrote:
On Feb 6, 3:46 pm, Dean Hoffman wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.
Jimmie
Try a length of small diameter cable with a loop in each end for
handles. I had one for cutting conduit. Example he
http://tinyurl.com/yz84mmu

Thanks but the pipe has to be cut from the inside.


Jimmie

Search for internal or inside pipe cutter. Some he
http://tinyurl.com/yjm5nkf

Dean Hoffman wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
On Feb 6, 3:46 pm, Dean Hoffman wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am
considering removing the table from my drill press, fastening a
cutoff disk to one end of a long rod and chucking the other end in
the drill press to make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im
pretty sur ethis will work but I didnt want to have to disassemble
my drill press to do it especially if there is a $10 tool or
something made for this purpose. Jimmie
Try a length of small diameter cable with a loop in each end
for handles. I had one for cutting conduit. Example he
http://tinyurl.com/yz84mmu

Thanks but the pipe has to be cut from the inside.


Jimmie

Search for internal or inside pipe cutter. Some he
http://tinyurl.com/yjm5nkf

Maybe check a rental shop for these.

On Feb 6, 3:22*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

This sounds like a good application for a Dremel. Just curious why do
you need to remove a foot of pipe? Is the flange no good?

On Feb 6, 5:26*pm, Mikepier wrote:
On Feb 6, 3:22*pm, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

This sounds like a good application for a Dremel. Just curious why do
you need to remove a foot of pipe? Is the flange no good?

Flange is bad and there are a couple of splices below it that have to
be removed. It looks like repairs have been attempted on it before.
Not enough room for a dremel tool and my hand unless I want to cut it
off an inch or so at a time. I may go out to Northern tool and look at
some of their cheap drill presses though instead of tearing mine
apart.


Jimmie

On 2010-02-06, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this.

If the pipe is plastic pipe, you could use a tool called a "fitting
saver", even though you don't have a fitting in this case. One brand
of them is the Pasco Ram Bit.

Basically it is a sharp disc cutter with a positioning disc in front
of it, you chuck it into a hand drill. The positioning disc diameter
matches the inside diameter of the pipe and guides the tool; the
cutting disc diameter matches the outside diameter of the pipe. That
way you can ream out the hub of a fitting and reuse the fitting (as
long as you don't go too far!).

In your case, you can just use it to grind away the pipe as far as you
need to, and then add a coupling. Or you could go all the way back to
the hub of the closet elbow. If you are using it on ABS pipe, be
careful as gets quite hot, you have to go slow.

Cheers, Wayne

"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2010-02-06, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this.

If the pipe is plastic pipe, you could use a tool called a "fitting
saver", even though you don't have a fitting in this case. One brand
of them is the Pasco Ram Bit.

Basically it is a sharp disc cutter with a positioning disc in front
of it, you chuck it into a hand drill. The positioning disc diameter
matches the inside diameter of the pipe and guides the tool; the
cutting disc diameter matches the outside diameter of the pipe. That
way you can ream out the hub of a fitting and reuse the fitting (as
long as you don't go too far!).

In your case, you can just use it to grind away the pipe as far as you
need to, and then add a coupling. Or you could go all the way back to
the hub of the closet elbow. If you are using it on ABS pipe, be
careful as gets quite hot, you have to go slow.

Cheers, Wayne



Guys, I am fairly sure JIMMIE is a troll.

If he would care to tell me how he plans to glue in the repair for the
section he removes I might change that opinion.

Have you thought about that?

Colbyt

Colbyt wrote:

Guys, I am fairly sure JIMMIE is a troll.

If he would care to tell me how he plans to glue in the repair for the
section he removes I might change that opinion.

Have you thought about that?

Colbyt


Internal coupling?

http://www.google.com/products/catal...423&sa=title#p

Some years ago, I got a call from some friends. The man of
the house had fallen in the bathroom, and now the toilet
wobbed, a lot. I got one of these. The old flange was cast
iron, with lead around it. Lucky for all of us, a couple
taps with the 24 ounce framing hammer broke the cast iron.
The new flange tightened with allen wrench, and the toilet
remounted reasonably well. Took some shims from the paint
department to steady the toilet from rocking.


--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
On Feb 6, 5:26 pm, Mikepier wrote:
On Feb 6, 3:22 pm, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot
vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch
clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the
pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am
considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a
cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the
drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty
sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill
press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for
this purpose.

Jimmie

This sounds like a good application for a Dremel. Just
curious why do
you need to remove a foot of pipe? Is the flange no good?

Flange is bad and there are a couple of splices below it
that have to
be removed. It looks like repairs have been attempted on it
before.
Not enough room for a dremel tool and my hand unless I want
to cut it
off an inch or so at a time. I may go out to Northern tool
and look at
some of their cheap drill presses though instead of tearing
mine
apart.


Jimmie

Thanks but the pipe has to be cut from the inside.

Jimmie

WHY? break out some of the concrete, remove some soil, cut the pipe,
repair pipe, put soil back in and repair concrete floor. Very small
simple
job.

On Feb 6, 8:18*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message

...





On 2010-02-06, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this.

If the pipe is plastic pipe, you could use a tool called a "fitting
saver", even though you don't have a fitting in this case. *One brand
of them is the Pasco Ram Bit.

Basically it is a sharp disc cutter with a positioning disc in front
of it, you chuck it into a hand drill. *The positioning disc diameter
matches the inside diameter of the pipe and guides the tool; the
cutting disc diameter matches the outside diameter of the pipe. *That
way you can ream out the hub of a fitting and reuse the fitting (as
long as you don't go too far!).

In your case, you can just use it to grind away the pipe as far as you
need to, and then add a coupling. *Or you could go all the way back to
the hub of the closet elbow. *If you are using it on ABS pipe, be
careful as gets quite hot, you have to go slow.

Cheers, Wayne

Guys, I am fairly sure JIMMIE is a troll.

If he would care to tell me how he plans to glue in the repair for the
section he removes I might change that opinion.

Have you thought about that?

Colbyt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I dont understand why you would think that part would be difficult. I
will have to dig out a little dirt but that shouldnt be too hard to do
once I can pull the pipe out which is what Im asking advice on.

I actually think I have a viable solution to the problem using the
drill press to turn a small cutoff blade in side the pipe. Once I get
it down inside the pipe I can just slide the drill press around until
it cuts out the pipe. Ik now it sounds like a Rube Goldberg way of
doing it and I thought someone here would have a better idea. My only
real problem of doing it is my drill press is a Big Heavy bench top
drill press. Someone suggested using an electric drill instead of a
drill press. I was afraid of trying it free hand like that but I may
try half way up on the pipe to see how it works.


Jimmie

Jimmie

I needed to do this a few years ago .. .. I took a piece of 1/2"
threaded rod .. attached a small saw blade (actually it was a SPEEDY-CUT
abrasive wheel) with a 1/2" bore using 2 nuts & washers .. chucked it up
in a slow, 1/2" drill .. lowered it into the pipe ,, uct away & removed
the bad section. Fortunately, for me, I was able to go to a toilet
flange that fit INSIDE the pipe I just cut, so I didn't need to break
out any concrete .. but that would not have been a big deal had it been
necessary.

On 2/6/2010 3:22 PM, JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.


Jimmie

On Feb 6, 10:25*pm, "
wrote:
Thanks but the pipe has to be cut from the inside.

Jimmie

WHY? *break out some of the concrete, remove some soil, cut the pipe,
repair pipe, put soil back in and repair concrete floor. *Very small
simple
job.

Ceramic tile, It was installed right up to the edge of the hole.

Jimmie

On Feb 7, 12:44*am, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
I needed to do this a few years ago .. .. I took a piece of 1/2"
threaded rod .. attached a small saw blade (actually it was a SPEEDY-CUT
abrasive wheel) with a 1/2" bore using 2 nuts & washers .. chucked it up
in a slow, 1/2" drill .. lowered it into the pipe ,, uct away & removed
the bad section. * Fortunately, for me, I was able to go to a toilet
flange that fit INSIDE the pipe I just cut, so I didn't need to break
out any concrete .. but that would not have been a big deal had it been
necessary.

On 2/6/2010 3:22 PM, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

That was kind of my plan too except I envisioned using a drill press I
could slide around on the floor to make sure the cut was neat and
square.

Jimmie

On Feb 6, 3:22*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

I got it done and used a rotozip to do it. I just had to take it out
an inch at a time. Doing it this way wasnt as bad as I thought it
would be. Trying to do it with a drill with a long shaft on it didnt
work. It wanted ti whip around too bad.

Jimmie

On Feb 7, 10:14*am, JIMMIE wrote:
On Feb 6, 3:22*pm, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

I got it done and used a rotozip *to do it. I just had to take it out
an inch at a time. Doing it this way wasnt as bad as I thought it
would be. Trying to do it with a drill with a long shaft on it didnt
work. It wanted ti whip around too bad.

Jimmie

Good to hear of your progress.

On Feb 7, 7:16*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Feb 7, 10:14*am, JIMMIE wrote:





On Feb 6, 3:22*pm, JIMMIE wrote:

I need to replace a toilet flange and about a foot vertical of pipe
that is below a concrete floor. There is about 1/4 inch clearance
between the concrete and where the flange fastens to the pipe. Is
there any kind of tool that is made for doing this. I am considering
removing the table from my drill press, fastening a cutoff disk to one
end of a long rod and chucking the other end in the drill press to
make a saw that will reach down in the hole. Im pretty sur ethis will
work but I didnt want to have to disassemble my drill press to do it
especially if there is a $10 tool or something made for this purpose.

Jimmie

I got it done and used a rotozip *to do it. I just had to take it out
an inch at a time. Doing it this way wasnt as bad as I thought it
would be. Trying to do it with a drill with a long shaft on it didnt
work. It wanted ti whip around too bad.

Jimmie

Good to hear of your progress.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I dont think the toilet flange was installed right. Shouldnt the
flange be on the concrete instead of on top of the ceramic tile???

On Sun, 7 Feb 2010 17:18:47 -0800 (PST), JIMMIE
wrote:

I dont think the toilet flange was installed right. Shouldnt the
flange be on the concrete instead of on top of the ceramic tile???

Oops

Dean Hoffman wrote in news:hkl5n3$hps$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Colbyt wrote:

Guys, I am fairly sure JIMMIE is a troll.

If he would care to tell me how he plans to glue in the repair for the
section he removes I might change that opinion.

Have you thought about that?

Colbyt


Internal coupling?


Disclainer: I'm no plumber nor very experienced at it.

Would the lip set the stage for clogging????

The pipe for a toilet is 3" sched 40? If this is true, I found some chart
that says the internal diameter is 3.068.

http://www.snapfour.com/pdf/Table_38-39.pdf

Sched 40 wall thickness is about 1/4" (.216 according to the table) I
take it. If you put an internal coupling (assume it's sched 40 like the
pipe?) then the drain reduces a half inch at the coupling. Roughly,
diameter is reduced 16% the internal flow area is reduced from 7.39 sq in
to 5.18 sq in. or 30%.

Maybe couplings for schd 40 are thinner wall than the pipe?

Red Green wrote:
Dean Hoffman wrote in news:hkl5n3$hps$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Colbyt wrote:
Guys, I am fairly sure JIMMIE is a troll.

If he would care to tell me how he plans to glue in the repair for the
section he removes I might change that opinion.

Have you thought about that?

Colbyt

Internal coupling?


Disclainer: I'm no plumber nor very experienced at it.

Would the lip set the stage for clogging????

The pipe for a toilet is 3" sched 40? If this is true, I found some chart
that says the internal diameter is 3.068.

http://www.snapfour.com/pdf/Table_38-39.pdf

Sched 40 wall thickness is about 1/4" (.216 according to the table) I
take it. If you put an internal coupling (assume it's sched 40 like the
pipe?) then the drain reduces a half inch at the coupling. Roughly,
diameter is reduced 16% the internal flow area is reduced from 7.39 sq in
to 5.18 sq in. or 30%.

Maybe couplings for schd 40 are thinner wall than the pipe?


Beats me. I just know they exist. My plumbing experience is
limited to the few things I've had to repair for myself.