I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

On Jan 29, 9:01*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. *Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. *I also need to find that little cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

Visit any saw dealer and buy a depth gauge file guide - at most a few
bucks - for the rakers.

I've done 10 plus cords for the past 30 or more years and still use a
file guide that sets all the angles. Others do a great job free hand.

Real secret? File befoe the chain is dull. Only takes a few strokes
then. Takes me about 10 minutes to do a 20" loop. When the saw
requires down force to cut it is time (actually past time) to file.

Harry K

On Jan 29, 9:01*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. *Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. *I also need to find that little cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

Forgot to add:

Use a sharp file. I change them often and buy by the dozen from
Baileys (baileysonline.com)

Harry K

Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking
for the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is
about one inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle
right, it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that
little cube to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?


A few firm strokes on each tooth with a sharp file does it for me. I clamp the
blade in my vise, then carefully line the file up with the cut of the tooth,
then stroke. Apply pressure with the forward stroke - no pressure on the return
stroke, which will just dull the file. Do all the proper alternateing teeth from
one side, then do the other teeth from the other side. Do several teeth, then
move the chain for access to the next set.

Apply the pressure so as to file the cutting edge of the tooth, not to cut
deeper into the tooth. Along the blade rather than into the blade. I believe I
choose the side to file from so that the file as I stroke is pushing from the
back of the blade towards the tip slightly, rather than the reverse. It tends to
chatter if done the reverse way.

Make sure you have the proper size chainsaw file for your chain.

"Steve B" wrote:

I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

You might use that for a while- but it becomes a pain & I'll bet you
toss it and just eye the angle up after a bit.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

Check out a new chain & note how much space between the top of the
rakers and teeth when you lay a straight edge across. Maintain that
space, more or less. Maybe hit the rakers about every half dozen
touch-ups.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

The file is the most important part- buy them in bulk and replace
often. You probably already have an 'eye' for seeing the angle. Get
a good small file for the rakers.

Do it often. Keep a couple or three chains going so you don't waste
time sharpening when the sun is shining.

If the saw starts to run one way or the other & the fix isn't obvious
drop the chain off at the guy with the machine & start over with the
touch-ups.

Jim

Stihl chainsaw dealers sell a Stihl DVD called "Chain Saw Safety, Operation
& Maintenance".

This includes information on properly sharpening a chain.



"Steve B" wrote in message
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

On 1/29/2010 11:01 PM, Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve




You'll put your eye out, kid.

"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve


You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or
13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt marker
so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other
tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just
sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and a
couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire
(embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.

How do I avoid those things?

Steve

On Jan 30, 11:57*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message

...





Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. *Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. *I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or
13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt marker
so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other
tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just
sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and a
couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire
(embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.

How do I avoid those things?

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Errmmm...time travel? Hasn't worked for me yet

Harry K

wrote in message
news
On Fri, 29 Jan 2010 21:01:00 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

The short answer is "Dremel tool and the right stone for your chain".
I had 2 file and gauge type sharpeners and I will never use them
again. I gave the nice one away and I keep the simple one in the box
in case I don't have power.

About a year ago, I saw Dremel stones in a thrift shop for a dime apiece.
There were about a dozen. Inch to inch and a quarter long, small diameter.
They have a hole in them, but no shaft. I believe they are the same
diameter as my file. I will check tomorrow. Does Dremel make a shaft that
you move from stone to stone? It would have to be perfectly centered to
work right. If not that, I have a big set of carbide burrs, and maybe one
of those would be the same diameter. I have talked to a couple of people
who had the Dremels, one with a battery operated one, IIRC, and they said
they were the cat's meow. I have a Foredom shaft drive that I could use
instead of the DeWalt 18.

Steve

On Jan 30, 9:18*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jan 2010 21:33:05 -0800, "Steve B"





wrote:

wrote in message
news
On Fri, 29 Jan 2010 21:01:00 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

The short answer is "Dremel tool and the right stone for your chain".
I had 2 file and gauge type sharpeners and I will never use them
again. I gave the nice one away and I keep the simple one in the box
in case I don't have power.

About a year ago, I saw Dremel stones in a thrift shop for a dime apiece..
There were about a dozen. *Inch to inch and a quarter long, small diameter.
They have a hole in them, but no shaft. *I believe they are the same
diameter as my file. *I will check tomorrow. *Does Dremel make a shaft that
you move from stone to stone? *It would have to be perfectly centered to
work right. *If not that, I have a big set of carbide burrs, and maybe one
of those would be the same diameter. *I have talked to a couple of people
who had the Dremels, one with a battery operated one, IIRC, and they said
they were the cat's meow. *I have a Foredom shaft drive that I could use
instead of the DeWalt 18.

Steve

The ones I have are purpose built for sharpening chain saws and the
stem is on the stone. There are 3 sizes so be sure you get the one to
go with your chain. They were 2 for $7 at Ace Hardware the last time I
bought them
I think most rotary tools use the same bits.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Don't you need the guide to set the depth of the stone also?

Harry K

On Jan 31, 9:17*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Harry K" wrote in message

...
On Jan 30, 11:57 am, "Steve B" wrote:





"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message

...

Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking
for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle
right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or
13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt
marker
so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other
tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just
sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and
a
couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire
(embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.

How do I avoid those things?

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Errmmm...time travel? *Hasn't worked for me yet

Harry K

Sorry, he just stated to avoid the rocks, nails, barbed wire, etc, like it
was a thing that one would intentionally aim for, and should not.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That was a semi-serious joke. I actually had in mind the many times I
have hit things embedded withing the wood that are not visible. My
favorite one was taking down a snag in a fencerow - visible scars
indicated embedded wirres. So I cut 6" above the top one and hit a
jacketed bullet. That is one of the reasons I carry several sharp
chains. Lot faster to change out a chain than it is to file in the
field.

Harry K

"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Jan 30, 11:57 am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message

...





Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking
for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle
right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or
13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt
marker
so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other
tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just
sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and
a
couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire
(embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.

How do I avoid those things?

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Errmmm...time travel? Hasn't worked for me yet

Harry K

Sorry, he just stated to avoid the rocks, nails, barbed wire, etc, like it
was a thing that one would intentionally aim for, and should not.

Steve

Steve B wrote:

I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

The short answer is: Unless you use the saw professionally and have to
sharpen it a lot, just take your chains to a shop where they will
sharpen them correctly for a few bucks.

The Oregon micro-chisel chains I use (non-anti kickback "pro" chains and
highly recommended if you know how to handle a chainsaw) have a
reference line stamped into each cutter link to help you field sharpen
without any alignment jig.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Steve B wrote:

I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

The short answer is: Unless you use the saw professionally and have to
sharpen it a lot, just take your chains to a shop where they will
sharpen them correctly for a few bucks.

The Oregon micro-chisel chains I use (non-anti kickback "pro" chains and
highly recommended if you know how to handle a chainsaw) have a
reference line stamped into each cutter link to help you field sharpen
without any alignment jig.

TY. Will look at my Oregon chains tomorrow.

Steve

On Jan 31, 8:50*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
"Pete C." wrote in message

ster.com...







Steve B wrote:

I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for
the manual or download. *Husky provided a simple thing that is about one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. *I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

The short answer is: Unless you use the saw professionally and have to
sharpen it a lot, just take your chains to a shop where they will
sharpen them correctly for a few bucks.

The Oregon micro-chisel chains I use (non-anti kickback "pro" chains and
highly recommended if you know how to handle a chainsaw) have a
reference line stamped into each cutter link to help you field sharpen
without any alignment jig.

TY. *Will look at my Oregon chains tomorrow.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is on most brands of chain. An angle bar stamped on top of the
tooth near the back. It also serves (unneeded though) as the point
you should quit filing and throw the chain away. It only give s the
top angle, on most chains the file should also be held with some "up"
angle, usually around 10 degrees.

Harry K

It is on most brands of chain. An angle bar stamped on top of the
tooth near the back. It also serves (unneeded though) as the point
you should quit filing and throw the chain away. It only give s the
top angle, on most chains the file should also be held with some "up"
angle, usually around 10 degrees.

Harry K

Found my Oregon clamp on filer today. Clamped it on, and it seems to do the
deed. Can't find my manual, though, but remember enough about it to (I
think) sharpen them. Will look at that stamp tomorrow, though. The filer
was still set at the old angles, so I must have taken them off of the
manual.

Steve

"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message
...
On 01/30/2010 02:57 PM, Steve B wrote:
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking
for
the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about
one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle
right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve


You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or
13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt
marker
so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other
tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just
sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and
a
couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire
(embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.

How do I avoid those things?

Steve



Sometimes it's unavoidable with embedded metal and trees that were
dragged through the mud and gravel and have rocks embedded in the bark.
If you have this problem a lot, get a second chain you use only for junk
wood.

I live in sand dunes. Anything transported here accumulates sand within
twenty minutes. When sawing, I have to take a sledge and hit the log a few
times, and that makes it only slightly better. Hence, I need a quick field
app to keep my chains sharp.

Steve

On Jan 31, 9:15*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
It is on most brands of chain. *An angle bar stamped on top of the
tooth near the back. *It also serves (unneeded though) as the point
you should quit filing and throw the chain away. *It only give s the
top angle, on most chains the file should also be held with some "up"
angle, usually around 10 degrees.

Harry K

Found my Oregon clamp on filer today. *Clamped it on, and it seems to do the
deed. *Can't find my manual, though, but remember enough about it to (I
think) sharpen them. *Will look at that stamp tomorrow, though. *The filer
was still set at the old angles, so I must have taken them off of the
manual.

Steve

My guide is set at 35 and 10 which will do a good job on most chains.
If you buy a new chain, the angles should be listed on the box.

Harry K

On Feb 1, 6:53*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message

...





On 01/30/2010 02:57 PM, Steve B wrote:
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking
for
the manual or download. *Husky provided a simple thing that is about
one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle
right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. *I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or
13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt
marker
so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other
tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just
sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and
a
couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire
(embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.

How do I avoid those things?

Steve

Sometimes it's unavoidable with embedded metal and trees that were
dragged through the mud and gravel and have rocks embedded in the bark.
If you have this problem a lot, get a second chain you use only for junk
wood.

I live in sand dunes. *Anything transported here accumulates sand within
twenty minutes. *When sawing, I have to take a sledge and hit the log a few
times, and that makes it only slightly better. *Hence, I need a quick field
app to keep my chains sharp.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Some people say they will 'ax' the bark off at the cut location - that
is bit too anal for my blood.

Harry K

On Feb 1, 10:32*am, Harry K wrote:
On Feb 1, 6:53*am, "Steve B" wrote:





"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message

m...

On 01/30/2010 02:57 PM, Steve B wrote:
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to
"you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking
for
the manual or download. *Husky provided a simple thing that is about
one
inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle
right,
it's just a matter of a few strokes. *I also need to find that little
cube
to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or
13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt
marker
so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other
tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just
sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and
a
couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire
(embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.

How do I avoid those things?

Steve

Sometimes it's unavoidable with embedded metal and trees that were
dragged through the mud and gravel and have rocks embedded in the bark.
If you have this problem a lot, get a second chain you use only for junk
wood.

I live in sand dunes. *Anything transported here accumulates sand within
twenty minutes. *When sawing, I have to take a sledge and hit the log a few
times, and that makes it only slightly better. *Hence, I need a quick field
app to keep my chains sharp.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Some people say they will 'ax' the bark off at the cut location - that
is bit too anal for my blood.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My 2c. I freehand with a dremel as well. Also freehand the cut depth
with the dremel and a regular stone. Chain's not a precision
instrument, as long as you're in the ballpark it works fine. I can do
an 18" bar in about 5 minutes. I keep sharpening them over and over
until I can't get the cut depth low enough. Then I save one or two
for those jobs where you know you are going to ruin a chain, like down
in a creek. Or in a hole.