I've had some problems with one of my trane heat pumps. I pulled the
high side line off the coil to check and make sure the orifice was ok
and not sticking when in heat mode. There was not any sort of gasket
or o-ring. Seemed to be a metal to metal seal. I tightened it up
real good when reassembling but wondered if this was right. My
goodman ac unit has a teflon ring where the high side connects to the
coil. Not so on the tranes? I'm worried it fell out and rolled away
while I was taking it apart. I did look around real good but the air
handler is in a crawl with a dirt floor.

On Jan 25, 8:49*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
I've had some problems with one of my trane heat pumps. *I pulled the
high side line off the coil to check and make sure the orifice was ok
and not sticking when in heat mode. *There was not any sort of gasket
or o-ring. *Seemed to be a metal to metal seal. *I tightened it up
real good when reassembling but wondered if this was right. *My
goodman ac unit has a teflon ring where the high side connects to the
coil. *Not so on the tranes? *I'm worried it fell out and rolled away
while I was taking it apart. *I did look around real good but the air
handler is in a crawl with a dirt floor.

You called Trane and asked, didn't you?

Joe

On Jan 25, 3:29*pm, Joe wrote:
On Jan 25, 8:49*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

I've had some problems with one of my trane heat pumps. *I pulled the
high side line off the coil to check and make sure the orifice was ok
and not sticking when in heat mode. *There was not any sort of gasket
or o-ring. *Seemed to be a metal to metal seal. *I tightened it up
real good when reassembling but wondered if this was right. *My
goodman ac unit has a teflon ring where the high side connects to the
coil. *Not so on the tranes? *I'm worried it fell out and rolled away
while I was taking it apart. *I did look around real good but the air
handler is in a crawl with a dirt floor.

You called Trane and asked, didn't you?

Joe

It's generally a waste of time to try to call any of the hvac
manufacturers. They won't talk about servicing details to anyone
except their techs.

You did this while the fluid was cycling, and the unit was
running, right?

Hard to tell, while the unit is turned off.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
I've had some problems with one of my trane heat pumps. I
pulled the
high side line off the coil to check and make sure the
orifice was ok
and not sticking when in heat mode. There was not any sort
of gasket
or o-ring. Seemed to be a metal to metal seal. I tightened
it up
real good when reassembling but wondered if this was right.
My
goodman ac unit has a teflon ring where the high side
connects to the
coil. Not so on the tranes? I'm worried it fell out and
rolled away
while I was taking it apart. I did look around real good
but the air
handler is in a crawl with a dirt floor.

Trane do not use an O-ring on their flowrator fittings. If you tightened
it up good, you are ok. Most units do use an O-ring, but did you also
notice the size of the piston in relation to the standard size that
Goodman and most all other brands use. Actually, I think Tempstar and
their related units use a similar setup as Trane also.

On Jan 25, 5:23*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You did this while the fluid was cycling, and the unit was
running, right?

Hard to tell, while the unit is turned off.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
I've had some problems with one of my trane heat pumps. *I
pulled the
high side line off the coil to check and make sure the
orifice was ok
and not sticking when in heat mode. *There was not any sort
of gasket
or o-ring. *Seemed to be a metal to metal seal. *I tightened
it up
real good when reassembling but wondered if this was right.
My
goodman ac unit has a teflon ring where the high side
connects to the
coil. *Not so on the tranes? *I'm worried it fell out and
rolled away
while I was taking it apart. *I did look around real good
but the air
handler is in a crawl with a dirt floor.

No. The unit had lost charge due to a crack in a piece of tubing in
the condensor. A whole bunch of pipe and the tvx where all basically
hanging on this 1 piece of 1/4" tubing coming off below the reversing
valve. I added some wire ties to better support it all.

On Jan 25, 6:52*pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
Trane do not use an O-ring on their flowrator fittings. If you tightened
it up good, you are ok. Most units do use an O-ring, but did you also
notice the size of the piston in relation to the standard size that
Goodman and most all other brands use. Actually, I think Tempstar and
their related units use a similar setup as Trane also.

Thanks a million. Yes, I did notice the piston was different.

Seen a few Tranes spring similar leaks as yours. That 1/4" line is the
external equalizer for the TXV. I hope you replaced the drier and pulled
a good vacuum on it, especially if it ran any time at all after the leak
happened. I usually pull the drier out of the condensing unit and just
put in a piece of copper in it's place and install a bi-flow in the LL
outside the unit-- especially if the unit has service valves. That way
it can be pumped down and the drier replaced easily if the need arises.
On units with quick connects (pre 1992) it really doesn't matter since
you can't pump them down anyway. Larry

On Jan 26, 1:34*pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
Seen a few Tranes spring similar leaks as yours. That 1/4" line is the
external equalizer for the TXV. I hope you replaced the drier and pulled
a good vacuum on it, especially if it ran any time at all after the leak
happened. I usually pull the drier out of the condensing unit and just
put in a piece of copper in it's place and install a bi-flow in the LL
outside the unit-- especially if the unit has service valves. That way
it can be pumped down and the drier replaced easily if the need arises.
On units with quick connects (pre 1992) it really doesn't matter since
you can't pump them down anyway. *Larry

Yes, I saw it ran over to the txv. It did run for a while without
charge in heat mode I'm sorry to say. There is no dryer in it. I did
not add a dryer but I did leave the pump on it overnight. Worked on
it again the next afternoon so I say I pumped it down for about 18-20
hours. I'm hoping that got the most of the moisture out.

I have two of them, identical 1 1/2 tons, circa 2002, so I open the
other up as well. That whole section of piping and the txv just hangs
off that 1/4" line. You can move the whole mess around an inch or so
in either direction. I don't understand why it is not better
supported. I used some little pieces of dense foam and wire ties to
tie it into some of the other stuff. Both are pretty solid now.

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jan 25, 5:23 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You did this while the fluid was cycling, and the unit was
running, right?

Hard to tell, while the unit is turned off.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
I've had some problems with one of my trane heat pumps. I
pulled the
high side line off the coil to check and make sure the
orifice was ok
and not sticking when in heat mode. There was not any sort
of gasket
or o-ring. Seemed to be a metal to metal seal. I tightened
it up
real good when reassembling but wondered if this was right.
My
goodman ac unit has a teflon ring where the high side
connects to the
coil. Not so on the tranes? I'm worried it fell out and
rolled away
while I was taking it apart. I did look around real good
but the air
handler is in a crawl with a dirt floor.

No. The unit had lost charge due to a crack in a piece of tubing in
the condensor. A whole bunch of pipe and the tvx where all basically
hanging on this 1 piece of 1/4" tubing coming off below the reversing
valve. I added some wire ties to better support it all.

In situations like that, I often take a suitable length of 1/4" copper
tubing, flatten the ends, bend a hook in each end, then braze it on as
support for the dangling device. It's really needed in situations where
a dryer is added to the unsupported liquid line coming off the condenser
coil.

TDD

On Jan 28, 1:39*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jan 25, 5:23 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You did this while the fluid was cycling, and the unit was
running, right?

Hard to tell, while the unit is turned off.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

....
I've had some problems with one of my trane heat pumps. *I
pulled the
high side line off the coil to check and make sure the
orifice was ok
and not sticking when in heat mode. *There was not any sort
of gasket
or o-ring. *Seemed to be a metal to metal seal. *I tightened
it up
real good when reassembling but wondered if this was right.
My
goodman ac unit has a teflon ring where the high side
connects to the
coil. *Not so on the tranes? *I'm worried it fell out and
rolled away
while I was taking it apart. *I did look around real good
but the air
handler is in a crawl with a dirt floor.

No. *The unit had lost charge due to a crack in a piece of tubing in
the condensor. *A whole bunch of pipe and the tvx where all basically
hanging on this 1 piece of 1/4" tubing coming off below the reversing
valve. *I added some wire ties to better support it all.

In situations like that, I often take a suitable length of 1/4" copper
tubing, flatten the ends, bend a hook in each end, then braze it on as
support for the dangling device. It's really needed in situations where
a dryer is added to the unsupported liquid line coming off the condenser
coil.

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is a whole tangle of copper tubing inside so the wire ties worked
pretty well.