mcp6453 wrote:
So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom caulking project by
doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub and the linoleum floor.
It turned out to be a mess. Even though I have read everything about caulking in
this group for the last few weeks, read the sites recommended, and viewed
numerous videos on YouTube, I smeared GE Silicone II a good half inch over the
floor.

Maybe practice makes perfect, but I still cannot determine why the finger thing
works for some and not for others. Wetting my finger sure made a big difference.
The joint between the tub and the floor was not uniform, and it was a larger
joint than some, but there was just no way for me to get a uniform bead. My next
step is to try using tape on the remaining joints. In addition, I may go back to
Home Depot and get one of the tools that someone here recommended.

One thing I did notice is that some of the YouTube caulking joints are not as
clean as they seem from a distance. A lot of them have smearing, as well. Now
when I visit other bathrooms, I guess I'll be looking over the caulking jobs. My
goal is a very professional looking caulked joint.

I had a pro install a small counter top. He put silicone caulk on the
bottom of the backsplash and pressed it onto the counter. There was
squeeze-out. He sprayed 409 cleaner into the corner and removed the
squeeze-out. The silicone caulk did not stick to the surfaces wetted
with 409. If you can get a good bead 409 might replace tape.

So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom caulking project by
doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub and the linoleum floor.
It turned out to be a mess. Even though I have read everything about caulking in
this group for the last few weeks, read the sites recommended, and viewed
numerous videos on YouTube, I smeared GE Silicone II a good half inch over the
floor.

Maybe practice makes perfect, but I still cannot determine why the finger thing
works for some and not for others. Wetting my finger sure made a big difference.
The joint between the tub and the floor was not uniform, and it was a larger
joint than some, but there was just no way for me to get a uniform bead. My next
step is to try using tape on the remaining joints. In addition, I may go back to
Home Depot and get one of the tools that someone here recommended.

One thing I did notice is that some of the YouTube caulking joints are not as
clean as they seem from a distance. A lot of them have smearing, as well. Now
when I visit other bathrooms, I guess I'll be looking over the caulking jobs. My
goal is a very professional looking caulked joint.

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...

So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom caulking
project by
doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub and the linoleum
floor.
It turned out to be a mess. . . . My
goal is a very professional looking caulked joint.

So you learned that:
1. This skill requires either tuition or experience (trial and error.)
2. Less material correctly positioned (as by specialist tools or
a wet finger) is better than more material badly placed.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On 1/19/2010 8:07 AM, Don Phillipson wrote:

So you learned that:
1. This skill requires either tuition or experience (trial and error.)
2. Less material correctly positioned (as by specialist tools or
a wet finger) is better than more material badly placed.

Don, you're absolutely correct, and I never doubted either one. What would you
suggest for a next step? Rip it up and try again? That's what I'm leaning towards.

The caulk I used is GE II, 3-hour drying time. It's finish is bright white, or
glossy. To make matters worse, the gloss draws the eye to the caulk line.

http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-sili...e-silicone.php

I'm now convinced that I need to spend some time at http://www.gesealants.com
learning about caulk. That's what I should have done before I ended up with
multiple tubes of caulk.

Here's the even newer one-hour stuff I bought but haven't opened yet.

http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-sili...kb-supreme.php

New question: There are a couple of spots that need some additional caulk. Can I
add new caulk on top of new caulk, as in layers?

On Jan 19, 6:55*am, mcp6453 wrote:
So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom caulking project by
doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub and the linoleum floor.
It turned out to be a mess. Even though I have read everything about caulking in
this group for the last few weeks, read the sites recommended, and viewed
numerous videos on YouTube, I smeared GE Silicone II a good half inch over the
floor.

Maybe practice makes perfect, but I still cannot determine why the finger thing
works for some and not for others. Wetting my finger sure made a big difference.
The joint between the tub and the floor was not uniform, and it was a larger
joint than some, but there was just no way for me to get a uniform bead. My next
step is to try using tape on the remaining joints. In addition, I may go back to
Home Depot and get one of the tools that someone here recommended.

One thing I did notice is that some of the YouTube caulking joints are not as
clean as they seem from a distance. A lot of them have smearing, as well. Now
when I visit other bathrooms, I guess I'll be looking over the caulking jobs. My
goal is a very professional looking caulked joint.

painters tape on either side of the joint
cut tip on an angle
use a good gun the backs off when you let go of the 'trigger'
when working with silicone wet your finger with white vinegar
use water when working with latex based like painters caulk
after your bead is down smooth it from bothe nds toward the middle
have A LOT of paper towels ready and a bucket or grocery bag to toss
them in
pull the tape right after you get it smoothed out

painters tape on either side of the joint
cut tip on an angle

I second that .. Good quality painter's tape on each sides + wet/
clean finger to smooth things out results in a VERY good looking
joint, even for a beginner (like me).

mcp6453 wrote:
So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom caulking project by
doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub and the linoleum floor.
It turned out to be a mess. Even though I have read everything about caulking in
this group for the last few weeks, read the sites recommended, and viewed
numerous videos on YouTube, I smeared GE Silicone II a good half inch over the
floor.

Maybe practice makes perfect, but I still cannot determine why the finger thing
works for some and not for others. Wetting my finger sure made a big difference.
The joint between the tub and the floor was not uniform, and it was a larger
joint than some, but there was just no way for me to get a uniform bead. My next
step is to try using tape on the remaining joints. In addition, I may go back to
Home Depot and get one of the tools that someone here recommended.

One thing I did notice is that some of the YouTube caulking joints are not as
clean as they seem from a distance. A lot of them have smearing, as well. Now
when I visit other bathrooms, I guess I'll be looking over the caulking jobs. My
goal is a very professional looking caulked joint.

Perhaps you can rig something to practice on. There is nothing like
making a mess to teach one's self what doesn't work ) Using either a
finger, tool or the tip of the caulk tube, make the bead slope to the
very edge of the tape...If you are dealing with a curled edge on the
linoleum, you first need to find a way to hold it down. It might be
easier going around the tub to do the back wall first, let it cure, then
do the ends - corners are tough for me to get done neatly. Push the
tube along smoothly and steadily as you can (this is where practice helps).

Has anyone invented bottled spit? Sure would help for jobs like
caulking ) Keep a damp rag handy to keep tools/finger clean and
remove tape right away after you have caulked. If a space is larger
than about 1/4" wide, you should use backer rod (like a round rope of
firm foam) to fill the space so caulk isn't piled in too deeply - it
won't cure if not exposed to air.

Yeh, I tend to notice caulk jobs wherever I go - hard to imagine doing
it as badly as some I have seen that look more like an explosion )

mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/19/2010 8:07 AM, Don Phillipson wrote:

So you learned that:
1. This skill requires either tuition or experience (trial and error.)
2. Less material correctly positioned (as by specialist tools or
a wet finger) is better than more material badly placed.

Don, you're absolutely correct, and I never doubted either one. What would you
suggest for a next step? Rip it up and try again? That's what I'm leaning towards.

The caulk I used is GE II, 3-hour drying time. It's finish is bright white, or
glossy. To make matters worse, the gloss draws the eye to the caulk line.

That is one drawback to clear silicone - I first noticed that feature
when my parents built a new home and the contractor used c.s. around all
of the baseboard/flooring joints in the bathrooms. A good idea to caulk
them but not with shiny stuff.

http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-sili...e-silicone.php

I'm now convinced that I need to spend some time at http://www.gesealants.com
learning about caulk. That's what I should have done before I ended up with
multiple tubes of caulk.

Here's the even newer one-hour stuff I bought but haven't opened yet.

http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-sili...kb-supreme.php

New question: There are a couple of spots that need some additional caulk. Can I
add new caulk on top of new caulk, as in layers?

On 1/19/2010 10:28 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 06:14:58 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor
wrote:

use a good gun

Maybe the best advice. A pro might be able to use a cheap gun
successfully but they won't usually even try. Why does anyone ever
think an amateur would be successful with one.
You want a gun with a swiveling barrel so the cut tip can be rotated
to match the surface and one with a good unloader that relieves
pressure (flow) when you stop.

The one I bought seems to be a good one, but I'd be willing to spend more. When
I release the trigger, a little silicone still comes out, but it doesn't pour
out. It was twice the price of the cheaper ones. If you can, please recommend a
brand or model that would be a good one.

On 1/19/2010 10:04 AM, wrote:

Has anyone invented bottled spit? Sure would help for jobs like
caulking )

Actually, yes. I have a bottle of some sort of chemical by GE that you spray on
the caulk to keep it from sticking to your finger. It's a home, so I don't have
the details handy. It does work, though, and it doesn't take much.

mcp6453 wrote:

So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom caulking
project by doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub
and the linoleum floor. It turned out to be a mess. Even though I
have read everything about caulking in this group for the last few
weeks, read the sites recommended, and viewed numerous videos on
YouTube, I smeared GE Silicone II a good half inch over the floor.

Maybe practice makes perfect, but I still cannot determine why the
finger thing works for some and not for others. Wetting my finger
sure made a big difference. The joint between the tub and the floor
was not uniform, and it was a larger joint than some, but there was
just no way for me to get a uniform bead. My next step is to try
using tape on the remaining joints. In addition, I may go back to
Home Depot and get one of the tools that someone here recommended.

One thing I did notice is that some of the YouTube caulking joints
are not as clean as they seem from a distance. A lot of them have
smearing, as well. Now when I visit other bathrooms, I guess I'll be
looking over the caulking jobs. My goal is a very professional
looking caulked joint.

I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.

On Jan 19, 7:30*am, mcp6453 wrote:

snip

New question: There are a couple of spots that need some additional caulk.. Can I
add new caulk on top of new caulk, as in layers?

One of the neat things about silicone sealants/caulks is that the bond
between old and new layers is about as strong as unlayered material.
This why it is perfectly acceptable to razor blade off old material
without entirely removing it. The well bonded old silicone is in fact
a perfect primer. The deadliest thing for silicone adhesion is any
kind of detergent or similar material.

Joe

mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/19/2010 10:28 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 06:14:58 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor
wrote:

use a good gun

Maybe the best advice. A pro might be able to use a cheap gun
successfully but they won't usually even try. Why does anyone ever
think an amateur would be successful with one.
You want a gun with a swiveling barrel so the cut tip can be rotated
to match the surface and one with a good unloader that relieves
pressure (flow) when you stop.

The one I bought seems to be a good one, but I'd be willing to spend
more. When I release the trigger, a little silicone still comes out,
but it doesn't pour out. It was twice the price of the cheaper ones.
If you can, please recommend a brand or model that would be a good
one.

Back off on the trigger before you get to the end, and slow down appropriately.
After you pull the gun away, immediately release the plunger ratchet to remove
all pressure on the caulk.

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom caulking
project by
doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub and the linoleum
floor.
It turned out to be a mess. Even though I have read everything about
caulking in
this group for the last few weeks, read the sites recommended, and viewed
numerous videos on YouTube, I smeared GE Silicone II a good half inch over
the
floor.

Maybe practice makes perfect, but I still cannot determine why the finger
thing
works for some and not for others. Wetting my finger sure made a big
difference.
The joint between the tub and the floor was not uniform, and it was a
larger
joint than some, but there was just no way for me to get a uniform bead.
My next
step is to try using tape on the remaining joints. In addition, I may go
back to
Home Depot and get one of the tools that someone here recommended.

One thing I did notice is that some of the YouTube caulking joints are not
as
clean as they seem from a distance. A lot of them have smearing, as well.
Now
when I visit other bathrooms, I guess I'll be looking over the caulking
jobs. My
goal is a very professional looking caulked joint.

I had to do about 40 feet of 'finger' caulking. Unfortunately, I didn't
pick up a good technique until almost the end.
Here goes:
Don't try to 'finger-smooth' the caulk, say left-to-right, all from
beginning to end. Example: Your tub is five feet long, and you want to
'finger smooth' all five feet. Let's assume that you want to
'finger-smooth' from left to right. START one foot from the right end of
the tub and smooth that one foot left-to-right. START your second move
about 2 feet from the right end and again, 'finger-smooth' left to right.
When you go over a few inches of the previous portion, you won't even notice
it. CONTINUE this process smoothing from left-to-right always starting at a
point further to the left.

Any attempt to start at the very left end just accumulates a giant blob on
your finger and makes a mess.

Ivan Vegvary

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:52:38 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.

Exactly! I use tile (sea) sponges from the tile section - the orange
ones (4X6X2?) Keep fresh clean water and rinse often.

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 06:14:58 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor
wrote:

painters tape on either side of the joint
cut tip on an angle

Best cut the tip smaller than the bead you need, always start small.
Make sure the tip is cut cleanly with the razor/utility knife blade
(lay the tip on a block of wood and get a clean straight angled cut.
No burs on the tip.

use a good gun the backs off when you let go of the 'trigger'

Se other posts.

when working with silicone wet your finger with white vinegar

Sponge and water is my choice. The grout sponges located in the tile
section.

use water when working with latex based like painters caulk
after your bead is down smooth it from bothe nds toward the middle
have A LOT of paper towels ready and a bucket or grocery bag to toss
them in

See good sponges

pull the tape right after you get it smoothed out

Pull up and away from the caulk bead. Rapid is better, Imo.

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 10:15:38 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

Back off on the trigger before you get to the end, and slow down appropriately.
After you pull the gun away, immediately release the plunger ratchet to remove
all pressure on the caulk.

Excellent advise. These methods work!

On 1/20/2010 1:50 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:52:38 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.

Exactly! I use tile (sea) sponges from the tile section - the orange
ones (4X6X2?) Keep fresh clean water and rinse often.

I still haven't finished the job. I lost my enthusiasm. Hopefully I can get back
in the mood soon so that I can get the bathroom back in service.

mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/20/2010 1:50 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:52:38 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.
Exactly! I use tile (sea) sponges from the tile section - the orange
ones (4X6X2?) Keep fresh clean water and rinse often.

I still haven't finished the job. I lost my enthusiasm. Hopefully I can get back
in the mood soon so that I can get the bathroom back in service.

Persevere. It took me 4-5 do-overs before I got the recaulk of my tub to
stick more than a couple of weeks. (After 4 years, I couldn't stand
looking at that hideous press-on caulk thing previous owner had
installed any more, with mold growing out of every crevice a week after
soaking it in bleach...). Lesson learned- a reseal of the grout on the
wall, about a day after the caulk job, helps keep water from getting
behind it and making it fall off. And I got the best looking bead using
one of those caulk tools that looks like a square rubber rod cut off at
an angle, with as tiny a bead as I could get from the toothpaste-tube
style bathtub caulk from the borg.

Glad I have a second 3/4 bath, so I could let the main one dry a day
before applying the caulk, and 3-4 days to cure after.

--
aem sends...

On Jan 20, 9:02*pm, mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/20/2010 1:50 PM, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:52:38 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. *The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. *Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.

Exactly! I use tile (sea) sponges from the tile section - the orange
ones (4X6X2?) *Keep fresh clean water and rinse often.

I still haven't finished the job. I lost my enthusiasm. Hopefully I can get back
in the mood soon so that I can get the bathroom back in service.

OK, I've been caulking things for over 20 yrs (glass business) it
takes a LOT of practice to be able to run a nice bead.

I've seen a few posts that tell you to practice running beads, but
that is a waste of caulk which is going to cost you even more money.

If you have at least a halfway decent caulking gun, I would recommend
using tape as others have pointed out (you can use cheap masking tape
btw instead of that expensive blue painters tape) and getting one of
those finishing tools from Home Depot like this one

http://www.toolsnob.com/pictures/DAP_caulk_tool.jpg

Believe or not, not only is running a good bead an "art form" but so
is using a finger with spit to smooth it. It takes a lot of practice /
experience.

On Jan 20, 10:12*pm, Ron wrote:
On Jan 20, 9:02*pm, mcp6453 wrote:

On 1/20/2010 1:50 PM, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:52:38 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. *The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. *Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.

Exactly! I use tile (sea) sponges from the tile section - the orange
ones (4X6X2?) *Keep fresh clean water and rinse often.

I still haven't finished the job. I lost my enthusiasm. Hopefully I can get back
in the mood soon so that I can get the bathroom back in service.

OK, I've been caulking things for over 20 yrs (glass business) it
takes a LOT of practice to be able to run a nice bead.

I've seen a few posts that tell you to practice running beads, but
that is a waste of caulk which is going to cost you even more money.

If you have at least a halfway decent caulking gun, I would recommend
using tape as others have pointed out (you can use cheap masking tape
btw instead of that expensive blue painters tape) and getting one of
those finishing tools from Home Depot like this one

http://www.toolsnob.com/pictures/DAP_caulk_tool.jpg

Believe or not, not only is running a good bead an "art form" but so
is using a finger with spit to smooth it. It takes a lot of practice /
experience.

BTW, make sure EVERY time that you stop and lift the gun, to wipe the
nozzle clean with a paper towel or rag before starting again.

Ron wrote:
On Jan 20, 9:02 pm, mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/20/2010 1:50 PM, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:52:38 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:
I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.
Exactly! I use tile (sea) sponges from the tile section - the orange
ones (4X6X2?) Keep fresh clean water and rinse often.
I still haven't finished the job. I lost my enthusiasm. Hopefully I can get back
in the mood soon so that I can get the bathroom back in service.

OK, I've been caulking things for over 20 yrs (glass business) it
takes a LOT of practice to be able to run a nice bead.

I've seen a few posts that tell you to practice running beads, but
that is a waste of caulk which is going to cost you even more money.

$3-$4 for a tube of caulk? One can waste it practicing or waste it
gumming up a bath surround ) It's just about impossible to guage the
size of the tip, speed of movement and evenness of the bead without
trying it out. I practiced on a bathtub three times until I got the
hang of it )

Could just fold a piece of corrugated cardboard into a a right angle to
use as a joint to practice caulking on.

If you have at least a halfway decent caulking gun, I would recommend
using tape as others have pointed out (you can use cheap masking tape
btw instead of that expensive blue painters tape) and getting one of
those finishing tools from Home Depot like this one

http://www.toolsnob.com/pictures/DAP_caulk_tool.jpg

Believe or not, not only is running a good bead an "art form" but so
is using a finger with spit to smooth it. It takes a lot of practice /
experience.

I agree, and you have got to keep a wet rag handy to clean fingers.

On Jan 20, 10:54*pm, "
wrote:
Ron wrote:
On Jan 20, 9:02 pm, mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/20/2010 1:50 PM, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:52:38 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:
I have had better results using a damp sponge than a wet finger. *The
sponge soaks up excess caulk better than my finger can and conforms to
angles better. *Experiment with moisture level of sponge and wash it
out often.
Exactly! I use tile (sea) sponges from the tile section - the orange
ones (4X6X2?) *Keep fresh clean water and rinse often.
I still haven't finished the job. I lost my enthusiasm. Hopefully I can get back
in the mood soon so that I can get the bathroom back in service.

OK, I've been caulking things for over 20 yrs (glass business) it
takes a LOT of practice to be able to run a nice bead.

I've seen a few posts that tell you to practice running beads, but
that is a waste of caulk which is going to cost you even more money.

$3-$4 for a tube of caulk? *One can waste it practicing or waste it
gumming up a bath surround ) *It's just about impossible to guage the
size of the tip, speed of movement and evenness of the bead without
trying it out. *I practiced on a bathtub three times until I got the
hang of it )

Could just fold a piece of corrugated cardboard into a a right angle to
use as a joint to practice caulking on.



If you have at least a halfway decent caulking gun, I would recommend
using tape as others have pointed out (you can use cheap masking tape
btw instead of that expensive blue painters tape) and getting one of
those finishing tools from Home Depot like this one

http://www.toolsnob.com/pictures/DAP_caulk_tool.jpg

Believe or not, not only is running a good bead an "art form" but so
is using a finger with spit to smooth it. It takes a lot of practice /
experience.

I agree, and you have got to keep a wet rag handy to clean fingers.

But, if he buys the tool that was recommended for what, $2, and uses
tape he'll be done with it.

I had plenty of practice back in the early 80s because my boss made me
practice. Took 2 pieces of glass and taped them together at a 90
degree angle. Run a "bead" (lol) scrape it off with a single edge
razor, and run another one. Not that big of a deal when you are
working for a company that is paying about 50 cents (if not less) for
a tube of silicone.

On Jan 19, 10:28*am, wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 06:14:58 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor

wrote:
use a good gun

Maybe the best advice. A pro might be able to use a cheap gun
successfully but they won't usually even try. Why does anyone ever
think an amateur would be successful with one.
You want a gun with a swiveling barrel so the cut tip can be rotated
to match the surface and one with a good unloader that relieves
pressure (flow) when you stop.

Unless you plan on doing a LOT of caulking, you don't need to spend
money (about $20.00) on a caulking gun with a "swiveling barrel".

A decent caulking gun such as this works just fine.

http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepa...aulkingGun.jpg

I used to use the one in the above picture and it is now buried
somewhere in my garage.

These are what I use now.....the top pic is battery powered and the
one below has a rotating barrel.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/IM002727.jpg

There are preparatory classes, and then when you're
physically and spiritually ready, you intervieew with the
priest. And then you can have your First Caulking, and take
the squeezegun and tube. It sounds like you just weren't
ready for your First Caulking.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
So last night at about 11PM, I decided to start my bathroom
caulking project by
doing the easiest run first: The intersection of the tub and
the linoleum floor.
It turned out to be a mess. Even though I have read
everything about caulking in
this group for the last few weeks, read the sites
recommended, and viewed
numerous videos on YouTube, I smeared GE Silicone II a good
half inch over the
floor.

Maybe practice makes perfect, but I still cannot determine
why the finger thing
works for some and not for others. Wetting my finger sure
made a big difference.
The joint between the tub and the floor was not uniform, and
it was a larger
joint than some, but there was just no way for me to get a
uniform bead. My next
step is to try using tape on the remaining joints. In
addition, I may go back to
Home Depot and get one of the tools that someone here
recommended.

One thing I did notice is that some of the YouTube caulking
joints are not as
clean as they seem from a distance. A lot of them have
smearing, as well. Now
when I visit other bathrooms, I guess I'll be looking over
the caulking jobs. My
goal is a very professional looking caulked joint.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

There are preparatory classes, and then when you're
physically and spiritually ready, you intervieew with the
priest. And then you can have your First Caulking, and take
the squeezegun and tube. It sounds like you just weren't
ready for your First Caulking.

My first caulking left a mess all over also. Good thing she
understood....