Zootal wrote:

As I was cleaning the frame, I
realized that the bottom wood piece was rotted much worse then I
originally thought and needs to be replaced.

See? Guess where it was leaking.
________________

I can make one of these,
as they don't require a router jig or table. I don't have a router
bit that will do a rabbet deep enough, so I'm off to HomeDepot
tomorrow for wood and router bits.

You don't need a bit that will do the full depth in one pass. In fact, you
should do it in 2-4 passes.
_______________

I might do the sides also, since
they are easy to do.

Do 'em right - bottom too - or you'll be back to leaks in no time.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Zootal wrote:

As I was cleaning the frame, I
realized that the bottom wood piece was rotted much worse then I
originally thought and needs to be replaced.

See? Guess where it was leaking.

Actually - there was a pane missing and a piece of cardboard in it's place.
The rotted bottom was only part of the problem, and not why I originally
decided to overhaul it. IOW I could see the caulk (on the inside, they
installed the window in the frame backwards) was dried and splitting, plus a
missing pane. After I removed it, I found the rotted wood. I'll take some
pics and post the before/during/after images.



________________

I can make one of these,
as they don't require a router jig or table. I don't have a router
bit that will do a rabbet deep enough, so I'm off to HomeDepot
tomorrow for wood and router bits.

You don't need a bit that will do the full depth in one pass. In fact,
you should do it in 2-4 passes.
_______________

I might do the sides also, since
they are easy to do.

Do 'em right - bottom too - or you'll be back to leaks in no time.


I'm easy to convince. The side pieces rotted at the bottom where the were
joined to the bottom piece. The top piece and the cross pieces (I forget
what they are called) are the only ones in good shape. It looks like the
bottom piece was not a single piece of wood, but it looks like they
laminated three pieces together. One with the greek or whatever finish (ogee
router bit?), one center piece, and a narrower piece for the rabbet. Weird.
My approach is to use a single piece and just use my router to shape it. I
have one bit already, I just need the deeper rabbet bit.

I have a 1/4 bit I can use for the first pass, and a 3/8 I can use for the
second. I'm not a router expert, I would have just done the 1/2 rabbet in
one pass...

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Zootal wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message
...
Zootal wrote:
...
And I'll definitely check for DAP 33 glazing compound. The glazing
compound I have is acrylic something or other.
OK, sounds good...if you get a chance and are interested, post the
actual product brand/name and I'll see if I know anything specific about
it...


This is what I have on my shelf:

DAP "Alex plus", Acrylic latex caulk plus silicone, "35 yr. durability
guarantee". And it's almond colored, which doesn't match anything I
have - why did I get almond colored?

ACE White glazing compound. "Glazing Compound is a siliconized acrylic
formula that is used to replace old or brlken windowpanes..."

I also found a tube of what appears to be ordinary latex caulk.

You don't want either of the caulks, obviously.

I looked at the Ace web site for that glazing compound and it was less
than helpful. I've not tried that particular one; it sounds similar to
the product I disrecommended for the neophyte as being hard to work
quickly as the surface skims over very quickly once it's in place and
makes it difficult to get a good clean edge when not practiced in using
the putty knife.

I couldn't find the instruction/usage data on the web site; I've got to
run to town tomorrow anyway, I'll see if it's on the shelf to take a look
at. If it expects the "triangular tip" to be all you're going to need to
get a clean finished edge, I have my doubts. The other problem w/ the
tube types I've used previously is they aren't stiff enough so that they
sag before they cure so the shape after they were knifed isn't the same
shortly after when set.

The traditional compound is still the standard in my book...


I take back a few of the evil things I've said about Home Depot. They
actually had buckets of DAP 33 on the shelf. And my wife bought me a router
table for an early christmas present. Time to have some serious fun now

On Nov 26, 3:31*pm, dpb wrote:


And, one can generally repair/replace a transmission/engine still for
quite significantly less expenditure than for a whole new automobile.

But it makes no sense to do so for a car that is old, high mileage and
driven where the elements take their toll on the body, electrical
system, suspension, ad infinitum. Similar to that kind of car, the OP
has rotted windows...if he wants to play with tools there is always
Habitat for Humanity. They would be glad to see him.

Joe

Joe wrote:
On Nov 26, 3:31 pm, dpb wrote:

And, one can generally repair/replace a transmission/engine still for
quite significantly less expenditure than for a whole new automobile.

But it makes no sense to do so for a car that is old, high mileage and
driven where the elements take their toll on the body, electrical
system, suspension, ad infinitum. Similar to that kind of car, the OP
has rotted windows...if he wants to play with tools there is always
Habitat for Humanity. They would be glad to see him.

Eventually, but it probably still isn't the best $$ decision--that would
be to replace w/ used which to make the analogy would be to visit the
Habitat reclaimed store.

As for the OP, there's no indication he has more than one window that
needs some significant repair to the frame and some unspecified number
of panes of glass and a little effort. And, indeed, window-making is
one of the more enjoyable crafts--takes some effort, but w/ a router and
a table, today it's well within the reach of the DIY'er and a sure-fire
self-satisfaction generator...

--

On Nov 29, 8:29*am, dpb wrote:

snip

*And, indeed, window-making is
one of the more enjoyable crafts--takes some effort, but w/ a router and
a table, today it's well within the reach of the DIY'er and a sure-fire
self-satisfaction generator...

I would concur. Expanding on comments I made in an earlier post, if
the project is for entertainment or skill development, then the
rationale of economics must take second place.
As for the OP searching for router bits, he should be well plugged in
to Magnate.net and MLCS, two of the woodworkers favorites for years.
Magnate also has the Legacy woodworking machines for making fancy
columnar wood pieces such as are popular in kitchen cabinetry these
days.

Joe

Joe wrote:
....
the project is for entertainment or skill development, then the
rationale of economics must take second place.

But the economics is still far in favor of the "repair rather than
replace" given the price of replacement (even "cheap", not
"inexpensive") windows.

As for the OP searching for router bits, he should be well plugged in
to Magnate.net and MLCS, two of the woodworkers favorites for years.
Magnate also has the Legacy woodworking machines for making fancy
columnar wood pieces such as are popular in kitchen cabinetry these
days.

I'd not run across magnate, thanks.

Seem to be on order of MLCS and ilk altho I noticed they did list Amana.

Unless it's a one-off job, I'll invest in the Amana, Whiteside, or
similar rather than the inexpensive imports that aren't polished as
well, therefore not as sharp to begin with and tend to have less and
poorer quality carbide. But, always good to have other places to search.

--

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Nov 26, 3:31 pm, dpb wrote:


And, one can generally repair/replace a transmission/engine still for
quite significantly less expenditure than for a whole new automobile.

But it makes no sense to do so for a car that is old, high mileage and
driven where the elements take their toll on the body, electrical
system, suspension, ad infinitum. Similar to that kind of car, the OP
has rotted windows...if he wants to play with tools there is always
Habitat for Humanity. They would be glad to see him.

Joe

It may be true that the elements take their toll on the various subsystem,
thus increasing the risk of future failure. But when does that become
grounds to discard it and buy a new/newer one? Where do you draw the line? I
can repair it, or I can replace it. I consider the cost of fixing plus risk
of future failure, and the cost of replacement and the risk of future
failure of the replacement. I consider my time investment versus my
available time, add it all up, and choose the one that makes most sense to
me.

It makes most sense to me to fix the windows. My time investment is
minimal - it's not that difficult to manufacture replacement wood parts.
Glass panes are less then $2 each, the cost of wood is about a buck. I
already have router, table saws, misc. wood working tools, paint, glaziers
compound is cheap, nails and glue I have. I whipped out the bottom wood
piece last night in between ping pong games with my daughters. I'll whip out
the side pieces tomorrow evening. A bit of glue and a few nails, some
glaziers compound, a few panes of glass, a bit of paint, and I have a window
that looks great and will last many years. And I can puff out my chest, pat
myself on the back, and say I did it myself, didn't take a lot of time, and
it cost less then $10. And I'm neither carpenter nor glazier, yet this I can
do.

A relative of mine looks at me like I'm nuts. Like some here, he can't
understand why I would do this. He would be the first to run down to the
local hardware store of his choice and just buy something. Then he would pay
someone to install it. Considering he doesn't know one end of a screwdriver
from another, for him this is probalby a good choice. I like to make salsa
from scratch - an onion, a jalapeno, a few tomatos and tomatillos, cilantro,
lime, chop, mix, and you have uber fresh salsa. He looks at me like I'm nuts
and asks why I just don't go buy some from the store instead of wasting my
time.

What makes no sense to some, makes perfect sense to others :-)