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#1
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Sheetrock question
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. |
#2
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Sheetrock question
"Jack" wrote in message ... I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. 5/8 won't sag as much as 1/2 inch.... |
#3
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Sheetrock question
On Oct 21, 6:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you. There is nothing "weird" about installing sheetrock on ceilings; that's typically how houses are finished. Installing sheetrock on a ceiling "upside down" would mean installing it such that the (typically) brown, unfinished side is exposed to the room. benick made a sound recommendation to use 5/8" sheetrock. That's what I use for ceilings. |
#4
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Sheetrock question
"Jack" wrote in message ... I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. If you really can't then 5/8 is your better choice. But Why can't you run furring strips across the 28" OC and run them every 16" OC so you can have a good ceiling out of 1/2"? |
#5
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Sheetrock question
On Oct 21, 9:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you. Explain what you're doing, and you will get worthwhile input. Otherwise here's the standard answer: No, you can't unless you like wavy ceilings, like the ocean, but upside down. R |
#6
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Sheetrock question
You're right Rico. Not enough info.
I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the trunk, I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom track is in the same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was done to get the most headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock already installed. I really don't want to drill holes into the bottom of the trunk to tack the sheetrock, but I am thinking I might be forced to keep the sheetrock from sagging. "RicodJour" wrote in message ... On Oct 21, 9:53 pm, "Jack" wrote: I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Explain what you're doing, and you will get worthwhile input. Otherwise here's the standard answer: No, you can't unless you like wavy ceilings, like the ocean, but upside down. R |
#7
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Sheetrock question
Jack wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is no way I can put any more support between the span. How about under the span? Can you spare an 1-1/2" headroom to run 2x4s at 16" o.c. perpendicular to the existing framing? Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Both 5/8? type X and 1/2" high-strength ceiling panels are rated for 24" o.c. framing. Both should be available, and some claim the 1/2" has better sag resistance than 5/8". I'm not going to say go ahead and do it, though. I don't know enough about the situation. |
#8
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Sheetrock question
On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:53:03 -0400, Jack wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. 5/8" board might do it, but I don't know that it is rated for more than a 24" span. There is also special ceiling board (used it once hanging professionally for about a year), but again, 24" span, not 28". |
#9
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Sheetrock question
On Oct 21, 6:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you. a while back this topic was discussed 28" is a bit far but 5/8 should be fine cheers Bob |
#10
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Sheetrock question
I just did this exact same setup in my basement( pics to follow in
another post soon). I have the supply and return running next to each other spanning about 4 feet. What I did was first put some liquid nails on the 1/2" sheetrock in the middle where the span was the greatest. The I put 2 or 3 screws at the edge of the return trunk ( It's just return air). It's solid now, no problems. Your situation is a little different. It sounds as if you have just the one supply trunk. You would have to drill right smack in the middle of the supply trunk, which I don't think its good. I agree with everyone else, 5/8" sheetrock would do the trick. It should span 28" with no problem. If it makes you feel better put some liquid nails or Loctite power grabber in the middle. |
#11
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Sheetrock question
"Jack" wrote in message news You're right Rico. Not enough info. I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the trunk, I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom track is in the same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was done to get the most headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock already installed. I really don't want to drill holes into the bottom of the trunk to tack the sheetrock, but I am thinking I might be forced to keep the sheetrock from sagging. I don't think you will have many problems in this situation. I would add a single 1" DW screw at the mid-point or use construction adhesive every 16-24". |
#12
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Sheetrock question
Colbyt wrote:
"Jack" wrote in message news You're right Rico. Not enough info. I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the trunk, I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom track is in the same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was done to get the most headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock already installed. I really don't want to drill holes into the bottom of the trunk to tack the sheetrock, but I am thinking I might be forced to keep the sheetrock from sagging. I don't think you will have many problems in this situation. I would add a single 1" DW screw at the mid-point or use construction adhesive every 16-24". DON'T install screws into the sheet metal duct, you will have nothing but troubles as the sheet metal duct moves all the time as it heats up and/or cools down, and it won't stop sagging as the sheet metal will just sag by being pulled down by the weight of the drywall. I have heard/read of some very strong "drywall" type materials, you may have to do some Google research and it is expensive and special order once you find a supplier. |
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