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Default Sheetrock question

I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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Default Sheetrock question


"Jack" wrote in message
...
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports.
There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any
special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the
borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


5/8 won't sag as much as 1/2 inch....

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Default Sheetrock question

On Oct 21, 6:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you.


There is nothing "weird" about installing sheetrock on ceilings;
that's typically how houses are finished. Installing sheetrock on a
ceiling "upside down" would mean installing it such that the
(typically) brown, unfinished side is exposed to the room.

benick made a sound recommendation to use 5/8" sheetrock. That's what
I use for ceilings.
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Default Sheetrock question


"Jack" wrote in message
...
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports.
There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any
special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the
borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


If you really can't then 5/8 is your better choice.

But

Why can't you run furring strips across the 28" OC and run them every 16"
OC so you can have a good ceiling out of 1/2"?



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Default Sheetrock question

On Oct 21, 9:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you.


Explain what you're doing, and you will get worthwhile input.
Otherwise here's the standard answer:
No, you can't unless you like wavy ceilings, like the ocean, but
upside down.

R


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Default Sheetrock question

You're right Rico. Not enough info.

I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the trunk,
I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom track is in the
same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was done to get the most
headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock already installed. I really
don't want to drill holes into the bottom of the trunk to tack the
sheetrock, but I am thinking I might be forced to keep the sheetrock from
sagging.


"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Oct 21, 9:53 pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like
on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There
is
no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


Explain what you're doing, and you will get worthwhile input.
Otherwise here's the standard answer:
No, you can't unless you like wavy ceilings, like the ocean, but
upside down.

R


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Default Sheetrock question

Jack wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports.
There is no way I can put any more support between the span.


How about under the span? Can you spare an 1-1/2" headroom to run 2x4s
at 16" o.c. perpendicular to the existing framing?

Is there
any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get
at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


Both 5/8? type X and 1/2" high-strength ceiling panels are rated for 24"
o.c. framing. Both should be available, and some claim the 1/2" has
better sag resistance than 5/8". I'm not going to say go ahead and do
it, though. I don't know enough about the situation.
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Default Sheetrock question

On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:53:03 -0400, Jack wrote:

I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


5/8" board might do it, but I don't know that it is rated for more than a
24" span. There is also special ceiling board (used it once hanging
professionally for about a year), but again, 24" span, not 28".
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Default Sheetrock question

On Oct 21, 6:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you.


a while back this topic was discussed

28" is a bit far but 5/8 should be fine

cheers
Bob
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Default Sheetrock question

I just did this exact same setup in my basement( pics to follow in
another post soon). I have the supply and return running next to each
other spanning about 4 feet. What I did was first put some liquid
nails on the 1/2" sheetrock in the middle where the span was the
greatest. The I put 2 or 3 screws at the edge of the return trunk
( It's just return air). It's solid now, no problems.
Your situation is a little different. It sounds as if you have just
the one supply trunk. You would have to drill right smack in the
middle of the supply trunk, which I don't think its good. I agree with
everyone else, 5/8" sheetrock would do the trick. It should span 28"
with no problem. If it makes you feel better put some liquid nails or
Loctite power grabber in the middle.


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Default Sheetrock question


"Jack" wrote in message
news
You're right Rico. Not enough info.

I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the trunk,
I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom track is in
the same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was done to get the most
headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock already installed. I really
don't want to drill holes into the bottom of the trunk to tack the
sheetrock, but I am thinking I might be forced to keep the sheetrock from
sagging.



I don't think you will have many problems in this situation.

I would add a single 1" DW screw at the mid-point or use construction
adhesive every 16-24".




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Default Sheetrock question

Colbyt wrote:
"Jack" wrote in message
news
You're right Rico. Not enough info.

I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the
trunk, I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom
track is in the same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was
done to get the most headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock
already installed. I really don't want to drill holes into the
bottom of the trunk to tack the sheetrock, but I am thinking I
might be forced to keep the sheetrock from sagging.



I don't think you will have many problems in this situation.

I would add a single 1" DW screw at the mid-point or use construction
adhesive every 16-24".


DON'T install screws into the sheet metal duct, you will have nothing but
troubles as the sheet metal duct moves all the time as it heats up and/or
cools down, and it won't stop sagging as the sheet metal will just sag by
being pulled down by the weight of the drywall.

I have heard/read of some very strong "drywall" type materials, you may have
to do some Google research and it is expensive and special order once you
find a supplier.

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