Sheetrock question
 

I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Sheetrock question
 

"Jack" wrote in message
...
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports.
There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any
special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the
borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

5/8 won't sag as much as 1/2 inch....

Sheetrock question
 

On Oct 21, 6:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you.

There is nothing "weird" about installing sheetrock on ceilings;
that's typically how houses are finished. Installing sheetrock on a
ceiling "upside down" would mean installing it such that the
(typically) brown, unfinished side is exposed to the room.

benick made a sound recommendation to use 5/8" sheetrock. That's what
I use for ceilings.

Sheetrock question
 

"Jack" wrote in message
...
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports.
There is no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any
special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the
borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

If you really can't then 5/8 is your better choice.

But

Why can't you run furring strips across the 28" OC and run them every 16"
OC so you can have a good ceiling out of 1/2"?

Sheetrock question
 

On Oct 21, 9:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you.

Explain what you're doing, and you will get worthwhile input.
Otherwise here's the standard answer:
No, you can't unless you like wavy ceilings, like the ocean, but
upside down.

R

Sheetrock question
 

You're right Rico. Not enough info.

I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the trunk,
I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom track is in the
same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was done to get the most
headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock already installed. I really
don't want to drill holes into the bottom of the trunk to tack the
sheetrock, but I am thinking I might be forced to keep the sheetrock from
sagging.


"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Oct 21, 9:53 pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like
on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There
is
no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Explain what you're doing, and you will get worthwhile input.
Otherwise here's the standard answer:
No, you can't unless you like wavy ceilings, like the ocean, but
upside down.

R

Sheetrock question
 

Jack wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down,
like on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports.
There is no way I can put any more support between the span.

How about under the span? Can you spare an 1-1/2" headroom to run 2x4s
at 16" o.c. perpendicular to the existing framing?

Is there
any special sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get
at the borg? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Both 5/8? type X and 1/2" high-strength ceiling panels are rated for 24"
o.c. framing. Both should be available, and some claim the 1/2" has
better sag resistance than 5/8". I'm not going to say go ahead and do
it, though. I don't know enough about the situation.

Sheetrock question
 

On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:53:03 -0400, Jack wrote:

I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. The board has to span 28 inches between supports. There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

5/8" board might do it, but I don't know that it is rated for more than a
24" span. There is also special ceiling board (used it once hanging
professionally for about a year), but again, 24" span, not 28".

Sheetrock question
 

On Oct 21, 6:53*pm, "Jack" wrote:
I've got a weird situation where I need to hang sheetrock upside down, like
on a ceiling. *The board has to span 28 inches between supports. *There is
no way I can put any more support between the span. *Is there any special
sheetrock that is stronger than the regular stuff I can get at the borg?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. *Thank you.

a while back this topic was discussed

28" is a bit far but 5/8 should be fine

cheers
Bob

Sheetrock question
 

I just did this exact same setup in my basement( pics to follow in
another post soon). I have the supply and return running next to each
other spanning about 4 feet. What I did was first put some liquid
nails on the 1/2" sheetrock in the middle where the span was the
greatest. The I put 2 or 3 screws at the edge of the return trunk
( It's just return air). It's solid now, no problems.
Your situation is a little different. It sounds as if you have just
the one supply trunk. You would have to drill right smack in the
middle of the supply trunk, which I don't think its good. I agree with
everyone else, 5/8" sheetrock would do the trick. It should span 28"
with no problem. If it makes you feel better put some liquid nails or
Loctite power grabber in the middle.

Sheetrock question
 

"Jack" wrote in message
...
You're right Rico. Not enough info.

I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the trunk,
I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom track is in
the same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was done to get the most
headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock already installed. I really
don't want to drill holes into the bottom of the trunk to tack the
sheetrock, but I am thinking I might be forced to keep the sheetrock from
sagging.


I don't think you will have many problems in this situation.

I would add a single 1" DW screw at the mid-point or use construction
adhesive every 16-24".

Sheetrock question
 

Colbyt wrote:
"Jack" wrote in message
...
You're right Rico. Not enough info.

I am wrapping the main trunk in the basement. On each side of the
trunk, I've got metal studs hanging down from a track. The bottom
track is in the same plain as the bottom of the trunk. This was
done to get the most headroom. The sides have got 1/2" sheetrock
already installed. I really don't want to drill holes into the
bottom of the trunk to tack the sheetrock, but I am thinking I
might be forced to keep the sheetrock from sagging.


I don't think you will have many problems in this situation.

I would add a single 1" DW screw at the mid-point or use construction
adhesive every 16-24".

DON'T install screws into the sheet metal duct, you will have nothing but
troubles as the sheet metal duct moves all the time as it heats up and/or
cools down, and it won't stop sagging as the sheet metal will just sag by
being pulled down by the weight of the drywall.

I have heard/read of some very strong "drywall" type materials, you may have
to do some Google research and it is expensive and special order once you
find a supplier.