In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
wall? Or...?

Perce

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
...
In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the whole
of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall and let
the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the wall?
Or...?

Perce

Another good reason not to use wiremold. They do make a wiremold bender,
theoretically you could make a bend over the existing raceway. You could
also use two mousetraps and a piece of wiremold flex, and go over the
existing raceway. You could also notch the sheetrock and drill the studs and
use romex.

In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the whole
of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall and let
the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the wall?
Or...?


*It is possible to bend a saddle in Wiremold, but it is a little tricky.
The Wiremold tends to get distorted as it is bent. You cannot have the
raceway float. You could put some blocks under it at intervals and strap it
on to them. I seem to recall Wiremold making a flexible joint which would
work in your case. Check their catalog.

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...
In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the whole
of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall and let
the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the wall?
Or...?


*It is possible to bend a saddle in Wiremold, but it is a little tricky.
The Wiremold tends to get distorted as it is bent. You cannot have the
raceway float. You could put some blocks under it at intervals and strap
it on to them. I seem to recall Wiremold making a flexible joint which
would work in your case. Check their catalog.


*Wiremold part number V5700F Flexible Section. 18" long and works for 500
and 700 Wiremold

Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
wall? Or...?

Perce

You could install a surface wiremold box. Cut out the attachment tabs at
top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
work.

There are "bushings" that are required at cut ends of wiremold. You
probably already know about them.

--
bud--

On Oct 9, 10:36*am, bud-- wrote:

You could install a surface wiremold box. Cut out the attachment tabs at
top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
work.

An interesting solution, I don't know if it would conform to the
intention of the code, but it seems like a safe enough solution.

R

RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 9, 10:36 am, bud-- wrote:
You could install a surface wiremold box. Cut out the attachment tabs at
top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
work.

An interesting solution, I don't know if it would conform to the
intention of the code, but it seems like a safe enough solution.

R

I believe it conforms to the letter and intent of the NEC.

--
bud--

bud-- wrote:

In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall
for 120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing
run of Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top
of the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against
the wall? Or...?

You could install a surface wiremold box. Cut out the attachment tabs at
top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
work.

I thought of that (but did wonder about the Code compliance), but in
fact I think I'll just run Romex through the wall (between the studs)
for that section of the installation, come out through the sheetrock
into the back of a surface-mount Wiremold box, then continue with
individual conductors in Wiremold raceway from that point on.

There are "bushings" that are required at cut ends of wiremold. You
probably already know about them.

Yes.

Perce

On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:20:22 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
wall? Or...?

Perce


Put a surface mount electrical outlet box where they cross.

On Oct 9, 4:08*pm, Phisherman wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
wall? Or...?


Put a surface mount electrical outlet box where they cross.

You can't have line and low voltage wires in the same box. That's why
I was wondering about Bud's solution of running one conduit straight
through the box. I don't know if that conforms to code or not. I
don't see a problem with it, but I don't know.

R

Phisherman wrote:
On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:20:22 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
wall? Or...?

Perce


Put a surface mount electrical outlet box where they cross.

??? I thought putting 110 and low-voltage in the same box was a no-no?

--
aem sends...

In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.

Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
wall? Or...?

Perce


Put a surface mount electrical outlet box where they cross.

??? I thought putting 110 and low-voltage in the same box was a no-no?


*In some instances it is permitted if the conductor insulation is the same.
It is also permitted if the two voltages are isolated by a divider. Bud's
suggestion is a good idea. One raceway will pass through the box without
the conductors being exposed while the other will use it like a junction
box. And it will be neat.