The way I see it, the current flows from one conductor to the other? So
what's the neutral for? The only thing I can think of is perhaps these
devices have several independent parts in them and some of those parts
are 120 volts...

Thanks,

Aaron

Some 220 VAC devices have a clock, circuit board, or some
other sub assembly which is 110 VAC.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
The way I see it, the current flows from one conductor to
the other? So
what's the neutral for? The only thing I can think of is
perhaps these
devices have several independent parts in them and some of
those parts
are 120 volts...

Thanks,

Aaron

On Sep 21, 10:03*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Some 220 VAC devices have a clock, circuit board, or some
other sub assembly which is 110 VAC.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message

...
The way I see it, the current flows from one conductor to
the other? So
what's the neutral for? The only thing I can think of is
perhaps these
devices have several independent parts in them and some of
those parts
are 120 volts...

Thanks,

Aaron
..
Trolling? Well; for example: Cooking stoves. The various ones we've
had (three or four countries) vary somewhat.
And only in 3 wire plus ground North American - Mexico 115 - 0 - 115
volt wiring practice.

Buy typically our present cooking stove has 230 volt elements and 230
volt oven heater/broiler etc. But the timer clock on this current one
is (IIRC) I115 volt.
Also there is a 115 volt light bulb in the oven controlled by a switch
on the stove and a 115 volt 'convenience' outlet.
Can't remember on this stove if that outlet is controlled by the
timer; but sometimes they are. And it occasioanally makes a convenient
place to plug in something heavy like a 1500 watt electric kettle or
fry pan.
On the other hand our 230 volt electric hot water heater does NOT need
a neutral for anything I can think of.

stan wrote:
On Sep 21, 10:03 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Some 220 VAC devices have a clock, circuit board, or some
other sub assembly which is 110 VAC.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message

...
The way I see it, the current flows from one conductor to
the other? So
what's the neutral for? The only thing I can think of is
perhaps these
devices have several independent parts in them and some of
those parts
are 120 volts...

Thanks,

Aaron
.
Trolling? Well; for example: Cooking stoves. The various ones we've
had (three or four countries) vary somewhat.
And only in 3 wire plus ground North American - Mexico 115 - 0 - 115
volt wiring practice.

Buy typically our present cooking stove has 230 volt elements and 230
volt oven heater/broiler etc. But the timer clock on this current one
is (IIRC) I115 volt.
Also there is a 115 volt light bulb in the oven controlled by a switch
on the stove and a 115 volt 'convenience' outlet.
Can't remember on this stove if that outlet is controlled by the
timer; but sometimes they are. And it occasioanally makes a convenient
place to plug in something heavy like a 1500 watt electric kettle or
fry pan.
On the other hand our 230 volt electric hot water heater does NOT need
a neutral for anything I can think of.

Thanks for all the responses, but now I have a follow up question.

So some devices (A) need neutral and some (B) don't. Then I would guess
that plugs on (B) should be a "special case" of those on (A). Meaning
that plugs on (B) should be pluggable into outlets with a neutral. But
unless I am mistaken, that is not the case. Why not? Or am I mistaken?

Thanks again,

Aaron

Aaron Fude wrote:
stan wrote:
On Sep 21, 10:03 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Some 220 VAC devices have a clock, circuit board, or some
other sub assembly which is 110 VAC.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message

...
The way I see it, the current flows from one conductor to
the other? So
what's the neutral for? The only thing I can think of is
perhaps these
devices have several independent parts in them and some of
those parts
are 120 volts...

Thanks,

Aaron
.
Trolling? Well; for example: Cooking stoves. The various ones we've
had (three or four countries) vary somewhat.
And only in 3 wire plus ground North American - Mexico 115 - 0 - 115
volt wiring practice.

Buy typically our present cooking stove has 230 volt elements and
230 volt oven heater/broiler etc. But the timer clock on this
current one is (IIRC) I115 volt.
Also there is a 115 volt light bulb in the oven controlled by a
switch on the stove and a 115 volt 'convenience' outlet.
Can't remember on this stove if that outlet is controlled by the
timer; but sometimes they are. And it occasioanally makes a
convenient place to plug in something heavy like a 1500 watt
electric kettle or fry pan.
On the other hand our 230 volt electric hot water heater does NOT
need a neutral for anything I can think of.

Thanks for all the responses, but now I have a follow up question.

So some devices (A) need neutral and some (B) don't. Then I would
guess that plugs on (B) should be a "special case" of those on (A).
Meaning that plugs on (B) should be pluggable into outlets with a
neutral. But unless I am mistaken, that is not the case. Why not? Or
am I mistaken?

There are 4 prong plugs and recepticals for 240 volt with neutral, and there
are 3 prong plugs and recepticals for 240 volt without neutral, they also
vary in configuration depending on the amperage and if they are locking.

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
The way I see it, the current flows from one conductor to the other? So
what's the neutral for? The only thing I can think of is perhaps these
devices have several independent parts in them and some of those parts are
120 volts...

Thanks,

Aaron

As others have said, if a 240 volt device requires a neutral, it uses 120
volts for some part of it. With the exception of older electric ranges and
cooking equipment, any 240 volt device that requires a neutral would
typically be hard wired or furnished with a 4 wire outlet and cord

RBM wrote:

As others have said, if a 240 volt device requires a neutral, it uses 120
volts for some part of it. With the exception of older electric ranges and
cooking equipment, any 240 volt device that requires a neutral would
typically be hard wired or furnished with a 4 wire outlet and cord

It's not so much the age of the appliance as it is the age and wiring of
the building that determines whether a 240 volt range or dryer has a 3
or 4 wire cord. The appliances are typically sold without cords for
that reason. It also helps keep the advertised price down. If a 3 wire
cord is needed, the neutral terminal on the appliance is bonded to the
frame.

"Bob" wrote in message
...
RBM wrote:

As others have said, if a 240 volt device requires a neutral, it uses 120
volts for some part of it. With the exception of older electric ranges
and cooking equipment, any 240 volt device that requires a neutral would
typically be hard wired or furnished with a 4 wire outlet and cord

It's not so much the age of the appliance as it is the age and wiring of
the building that determines whether a 240 volt range or dryer has a 3 or
4 wire cord. The appliances are typically sold without cords for that
reason. It also helps keep the advertised price down. If a 3 wire cord
is needed, the neutral terminal on the appliance is bonded to the frame.

My point is that only ranges and cooking equipment are exceptions