Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.

When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:

http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg (side view)
http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg (top view)

Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. I

I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:

http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg

I measured the interior depth. About 1/2". Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: About 7/8". Oops.

How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? Umm, like tonight. Or better
yet, right now.

On Sep 13, 6:18*pm, John wrote:
Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.

When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:

http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg*(side view)http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg* *(top view)

Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. *I

I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:

http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg

I measured the interior depth. *About 1/2". *Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: *About 7/8". *Oops.

How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? *Umm, like tonight. *Or better
yet, right now.

If running out to lowes or home depot to get a different toilet is not
an option...

1) shim around the edges of the toilet to prevent rocking.
they actually sell wedges for this.
paint sticks or plywood scraps will work for now

2) cut off the old flange and 'slide' in a new one.
http://tinyurl.com/q8eepx
note that for some reason the 3" slide in is much longer than the
4" ones
I think Lowes & HD sell both sizes

3) get a bucket for the time being...

Good luck!

Limp Arbor wrote:
On Sep 13, 6:18 pm, John wrote:
Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.

When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:

http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg (side view)http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg (top view)

Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. I

I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:

http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg

I measured the interior depth. About 1/2". Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: About 7/8". Oops.

How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? Umm, like tonight. Or better
yet, right now.

If running out to lowes or home depot to get a different toilet is not
an option...

1) shim around the edges of the toilet to prevent rocking.
they actually sell wedges for this.
paint sticks or plywood scraps will work for now

2) cut off the old flange and 'slide' in a new one.
http://tinyurl.com/q8eepx
note that for some reason the 3" slide in is much longer than the
4" ones
I think Lowes & HD sell both sizes

3) get a bucket for the time being...

Good luck!


I didn't receive your post until much later.

Here's the solution I came up:

In several layers, I put a ton of clear sealant on the bottom of the
toilet. I let the sealant firm up for about 4 hours before placing the
toilet onto the floor. I used about 3/4 of a tube of sealant to create
this gasket.

Afterwards, I used the remainder of the tube to fill in the gaps.

Here's a picture of the toilet nearly 10 hours later. The glue is still
milky since it hasn't cured yet. It'll probably take the rest of the
week to cure and become clear.

The toilet is now firm and doesn't rock in the least.

http://i31.tinypic.com/345bevb.jpg

What really ****es me off is that each time I start a project, I find
that the builders took every conceivable shortcut imaginable, or they
were stupid and or lazy, and the project takes me a few hours extra to
complete. Assembling the toilet took less than 20 minutes. All the
other crap took hours.

On Sep 14, 7:11*am, John wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Sep 13, 6:18 pm, John wrote:
Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.

When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:

http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg(side view)http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg* (top view)

Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. *I

I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:

http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg

I measured the interior depth. *About 1/2". *Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: *About 7/8". *Oops.

How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? *Umm, like tonight. *Or better
yet, right now.

If running out to lowes or home depot to get a different toilet is not
an option...

1) shim around the edges of the toilet to prevent rocking.
* *they actually sell wedges for this.
* *paint sticks or plywood scraps will work for now

2) cut off the old flange and 'slide' in a new one.
* *http://tinyurl.com/q8eepx
* *note that for some reason the 3" slide in is much longer than the
4" ones
* *I think Lowes & HD sell both sizes

3) get a bucket for the time being...

Good luck!

I didn't receive your post until much later.

Here's the solution I came up:

In several layers, I put a ton of clear sealant on the bottom of the
toilet. *I let the sealant firm up for about 4 hours before placing the
toilet onto the floor. *I used about 3/4 of a tube of sealant to create
this gasket.

Afterwards, I used the remainder of the tube to fill in the gaps.

Here's a picture of the toilet nearly 10 hours later. *The glue is still
milky since it hasn't cured yet. *It'll probably take the rest of the
week to cure and become clear.

The toilet is now firm and doesn't rock in the least.

http://i31.tinypic.com/345bevb.jpg

What really ****es me off is that each time I start a project, I find
that the builders took every conceivable shortcut imaginable, or they
were stupid and or lazy, and the project takes me a few hours extra to
complete. *Assembling the toilet took less than 20 minutes. *All the
other crap took hours.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

unfortunately your solution has two problems

1 If the wax ring leaks you won't know until the waste water builds
up enough to leak below. Don't know if it is correct or not but I
always leave the base of the toilet unsealed so if there is a leak
I'll know quickly.

2 When that silicone fully cures you'll need dynamite to remove that
toilet.

"Limp Arbor" wrote in message
...
On Sep 14, 7:11 am, John wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Sep 13, 6:18 pm, John wrote:
Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.

When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:

http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg(side
view)http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg (top view)

Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. I

I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:

http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg

I measured the interior depth. About 1/2". Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: About 7/8". Oops.

How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? Umm, like tonight. Or better
yet, right now.

If running out to lowes or home depot to get a different toilet is not
an option...

1) shim around the edges of the toilet to prevent rocking.
they actually sell wedges for this.
paint sticks or plywood scraps will work for now

2) cut off the old flange and 'slide' in a new one.
http://tinyurl.com/q8eepx
note that for some reason the 3" slide in is much longer than the
4" ones
I think Lowes & HD sell both sizes

3) get a bucket for the time being...

Good luck!

I didn't receive your post until much later.

Here's the solution I came up:

In several layers, I put a ton of clear sealant on the bottom of the
toilet. I let the sealant firm up for about 4 hours before placing the
toilet onto the floor. I used about 3/4 of a tube of sealant to create
this gasket.

Afterwards, I used the remainder of the tube to fill in the gaps.

Here's a picture of the toilet nearly 10 hours later. The glue is still
milky since it hasn't cured yet. It'll probably take the rest of the
week to cure and become clear.

The toilet is now firm and doesn't rock in the least.

http://i31.tinypic.com/345bevb.jpg

What really ****es me off is that each time I start a project, I find
that the builders took every conceivable shortcut imaginable, or they
were stupid and or lazy, and the project takes me a few hours extra to
complete. Assembling the toilet took less than 20 minutes. All the
other crap took hours.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

unfortunately your solution has two problems

1 If the wax ring leaks you won't know until the waste water builds
up enough to leak below. Don't know if it is correct or not but I
always leave the base of the toilet unsealed so if there is a leak
I'll know quickly.

2 When that silicone fully cures you'll need dynamite to remove that
toilet.

----
a razor knife will cut through that pretty quickly. cleaning up the floor to
replace it won't be very easy, as nothing, including itself, will stick to
the cured silicone.

On Sep 14, 6:11*am, John wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Sep 13, 6:18 pm, John wrote:
Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.

When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:

http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg(side view)http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg* (top view)

Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. *I

I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:

http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg

I measured the interior depth. *About 1/2". *Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: *About 7/8". *Oops.

How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? *Umm, like tonight. *Or better
yet, right now.

If running out to lowes or home depot to get a different toilet is not
an option...

1) shim around the edges of the toilet to prevent rocking.
* *they actually sell wedges for this.
* *paint sticks or plywood scraps will work for now

2) cut off the old flange and 'slide' in a new one.
* *http://tinyurl.com/q8eepx
* *note that for some reason the 3" slide in is much longer than the
4" ones
* *I think Lowes & HD sell both sizes

3) get a bucket for the time being...

Good luck!

I didn't receive your post until much later.

Here's the solution I came up:

In several layers, I put a ton of clear sealant on the bottom of the
toilet. *I let the sealant firm up for about 4 hours before placing the
toilet onto the floor. *I used about 3/4 of a tube of sealant to create
this gasket.

Afterwards, I used the remainder of the tube to fill in the gaps.

Here's a picture of the toilet nearly 10 hours later. *The glue is still
milky since it hasn't cured yet. *It'll probably take the rest of the
week to cure and become clear.

The toilet is now firm and doesn't rock in the least.

http://i31.tinypic.com/345bevb.jpg

What really ****es me off is that each time I start a project, I find
that the builders took every conceivable shortcut imaginable, or they
were stupid and or lazy, and the project takes me a few hours extra to
complete. *Assembling the toilet took less than 20 minutes. *All the
other crap took hours.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You don't mention putting a new wax ring on the bottom of the toilet
or on the top of the flange, If it leaks, you'll never know until the
floor rots out or the odor becomes unmisteakable.

Tony wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:
On Sep 14, 6:11 am, John wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Sep 13, 6:18 pm, John wrote:
Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.
When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:
http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg(side
view)http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg (top view)
Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. I
I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:
http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg
I measured the interior depth. About 1/2". Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: About 7/8". Oops.
How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? Umm, like tonight. Or better
yet, right now.
If running out to lowes or home depot to get a different toilet is not
an option...
1) shim around the edges of the toilet to prevent rocking.
they actually sell wedges for this.
paint sticks or plywood scraps will work for now
2) cut off the old flange and 'slide' in a new one.
http://tinyurl.com/q8eepx
note that for some reason the 3" slide in is much longer than the
4" ones
I think Lowes & HD sell both sizes
3) get a bucket for the time being...
Good luck!
I didn't receive your post until much later.

Here's the solution I came up:

In several layers, I put a ton of clear sealant on the bottom of the
toilet. I let the sealant firm up for about 4 hours before placing the
toilet onto the floor. I used about 3/4 of a tube of sealant to create
this gasket.

Afterwards, I used the remainder of the tube to fill in the gaps.

Here's a picture of the toilet nearly 10 hours later. The glue is still
milky since it hasn't cured yet. It'll probably take the rest of the
week to cure and become clear.

The toilet is now firm and doesn't rock in the least.

http://i31.tinypic.com/345bevb.jpg

What really ****es me off is that each time I start a project, I find
that the builders took every conceivable shortcut imaginable, or they
were stupid and or lazy, and the project takes me a few hours extra to
complete. Assembling the toilet took less than 20 minutes. All the
other crap took hours.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You don't mention putting a new wax ring on the bottom of the toilet
or on the top of the flange, If it leaks, you'll never know until the
floor rots out or the odor becomes unmisteakable.

On my recently installed American Standard "Champion 4" the instructions
tell you to caulk around the base after it is mounted. It looks nice.
I'm sorry to say but all that silicone looks like crap.

I agree. The silicone does look crap. Especially, when you're looking
at it from at it on your hands and knees and photographing it with a
very high-resolution camera and a flash unit.

At eye-level, one would have to point out the silicone to even notice it.

http://i36.tinypic.com/2gy3fnn.jpg

There are defects in my house that took me years to notice and I looked
at them each and every single day. When humans looks at a scene, we
view it in the gestalt. We're not able to pin-point each and every item
that the eye sees. A good high-resolution camera can magnify the
smallest detail.

I took a picture of my dogs and when I looked at the picture I realized
that there was a god awful amount of dirt in the corners of the white
marble fireplace. I never noticed the dirt visually. I got on my hands
and knees and cleaned it with a toothbrush. I had to photoshop the dirt
out of the image since it looked like I lived in a slum. Imagine if I
went around the entire house photographing every nook and cranny? I'd
get so disgusted that I burn the house down knowing that it would take
10 lifetimes to clean the house perfectly.

Yes, I put in a new wax ring. If there was any leaking, the wood would
have already been buckling. However, as people pointed out, I'd been in
a world of hurt had there been any leaking with that silicone solution.

John wrote:
Tony wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:
On Sep 14, 6:11 am, John wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Sep 13, 6:18 pm, John wrote:
Emboldened by my vast, bold previous experiences, I embarked upon
another journey into the dark mysterious world of toilets.
When I pulled out the old toilet and saw this, I knew that I wasn't
meant to explore beyond my own tiny pond of a universe:
http://i30.tinypic.com/2mwujqr.jpg(side
view)http://i31.tinypic.com/xpphts.jpg (top view)
Although I was filled with dread, I threw caution to the winds and
placed the new toilet upon the resting place.
Alas, my heart sunk when I felt the toilet rocking back and forth. I
I looked at the bottom of the new toilet:
http://i32.tinypic.com/2djrmrs.jpg
I measured the interior depth. About 1/2". Then I measured the old
toilet clearance: About 7/8". Oops.
How would Joe the Plumber resolve this? Umm, like tonight. Or
better
yet, right now.
If running out to lowes or home depot to get a different toilet is not
an option...
1) shim around the edges of the toilet to prevent rocking.
they actually sell wedges for this.
paint sticks or plywood scraps will work for now
2) cut off the old flange and 'slide' in a new one.
http://tinyurl.com/q8eepx
note that for some reason the 3" slide in is much longer than the
4" ones
I think Lowes & HD sell both sizes
3) get a bucket for the time being...
Good luck!
I didn't receive your post until much later.

Here's the solution I came up:

In several layers, I put a ton of clear sealant on the bottom of the
toilet. I let the sealant firm up for about 4 hours before placing the
toilet onto the floor. I used about 3/4 of a tube of sealant to create
this gasket.

Afterwards, I used the remainder of the tube to fill in the gaps.

Here's a picture of the toilet nearly 10 hours later. The glue is
still
milky since it hasn't cured yet. It'll probably take the rest of the
week to cure and become clear.

The toilet is now firm and doesn't rock in the least.

http://i31.tinypic.com/345bevb.jpg

What really ****es me off is that each time I start a project, I find
that the builders took every conceivable shortcut imaginable, or they
were stupid and or lazy, and the project takes me a few hours extra to
complete. Assembling the toilet took less than 20 minutes. All the
other crap took hours.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You don't mention putting a new wax ring on the bottom of the toilet
or on the top of the flange, If it leaks, you'll never know until the
floor rots out or the odor becomes unmisteakable.

On my recently installed American Standard "Champion 4" the
instructions tell you to caulk around the base after it is mounted.
It looks nice. I'm sorry to say but all that silicone looks like crap.

I agree. The silicone does look crap. Especially, when you're looking
at it from at it on your hands and knees and photographing it with a
very high-resolution camera and a flash unit.

At eye-level, one would have to point out the silicone to even notice it.

http://i36.tinypic.com/2gy3fnn.jpg

You are correct. I probably wouldn't be 100% happy, but if I ran into
the same problem I just may have done the same thing. For some reason a
thought just came to mind. Make stencil like, wooden spacer out of 1/4"
Luan. Maybe 2 thickness'. Or one thickness of wood with much less
silicone. But of course this would have required a trip to the borg the
next day. I do agree the pics from a standing view look much nicer and
I may not have noticed it right away either. Glad you got it installed
and your toilet doesn't double as a rocking chair!