Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:37:43 -0700, "Pat" wrote:

Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.


If you fail inspection, how long do you have to correct the problem?

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:37:43 -0700, "Pat" wrote:

Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage
door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.


If you fail inspection, how long do you have to correct the problem?


I am the home owner and builder. I won't correct. I will just build the
building the way I want and ignore the inspector. I don't need a
certificate of occupancy. I have my permit. The building meets all zoning
and setback requirements. It is not going to collapse. I will just build
it and not call for any inspections.

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:37:43 -0700, "Pat" wrote:

Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.


If you fail inspection, how long do you have to correct the problem?

????
Just how long and wide is your garage? Are you talking just the footers,
or the stem walls as well? Unless your lot has some real weirdness to
it, I've never seen a location where they couldn't get 'close enough'
with the chutes, to hit all the forms to where 2 strong guys with
shovels couldn't coax the concrete along. Or have they ditched the
extended chutes in favor of the fancy pumper truck, the better to make
money with?

Yes, you need the footing across the garage door. It catches the weight
and the impact load from the cars driving up onto the slab, and it helps
prevent frost heave from when water gets under the slab (at the crack
where it meets the apron or driveway) and freezes. You can tell cheap
tract houses where they didn't have footings under the door, by the big
gaps at the bottom of the garage doors. If your town requires a
continuous footing, good on them.

As to how to solve your problem- how much more would the redi-mix
company charge to do the pour in 2 deliveries a day apart? One pour is
best, but you can lace them together with rebar stuck in the first pour,
unless the inspector freaks out.

Or there is always the old standby of ten strong guys and a wheelbarrow
conga line, if the truck will hang around that long.

--
aem sends...

Pat wrote:
"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:37:43 -0700, "Pat" wrote:

Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage
door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.

If you fail inspection, how long do you have to correct the problem?


I am the home owner and builder. I won't correct. I will just build the
building the way I want and ignore the inspector. I don't need a
certificate of occupancy. I have my permit. The building meets all zoning
and setback requirements. It is not going to collapse. I will just build
it and not call for any inspections.


Fine and dandy, until you or your heirs go to sell the place. Or it gets
hit by a storm, or a fire, and the insurance company just laughs at you.

--
aem sends...

"Pat" wrote in message
...
Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage
door? This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck
inside. I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck
inside and save the $500 pumping cost.

It is a part of the integrity of the structure.

I read your other post and you may find it to be much cheaper in the long
run to pay the $500 up front and do the job right. Town inspectors have ways
of making your life miserable and the legal fees can be many times the 500
bucks. Do the job right.

You may appreciate that footing when the lack of it causes heaving or
settling in the years ahead. Much depends on the soil and climate
conditions, but codes are generally brought about for good reason.

On Tue, 01 Sep 2009 21:53:20 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:

Pat wrote:
"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:37:43 -0700, "Pat" wrote:

Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage
door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.

If you fail inspection, how long do you have to correct the problem?


I am the home owner and builder. I won't correct. I will just build the
building the way I want and ignore the inspector. I don't need a
certificate of occupancy. I have my permit. The building meets all zoning
and setback requirements. It is not going to collapse. I will just build
it and not call for any inspections.


Fine and dandy, until you or your heirs go to sell the place. Or it gets
hit by a storm, or a fire, and the insurance company just laughs at you.

I sold my last house. The buyer wanted to know about permits for a
floor. We had built a floor that divided the cathedral ceiling at the
second level floor 20 X 12 floor. Gave us another room upstairs.

Luckily, I had papers from the "friend" and a statement of work and a
materials list. Not pulling and complying with a permit, can be
difficult when selling a house.

Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage
door?

It supports the concrete garage floor which extends OUT to the outer edge of
the foundation between the foundation "walls" either side of the door(s)

Fine and dandy, until you or your heirs go to sell the place. Or it gets
hit by a storm, or a fire, and the insurance company just laughs at you.

--
aem sends...

I own it. No need for insurance. If it matters after I am dead I don't
think it will be my problem.

Pat wrote:
"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:37:43 -0700, "Pat" wrote:

Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage
door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.

If you fail inspection, how long do you have to correct the problem?


I am the home owner and builder. I won't correct. I will just build the
building the way I want and ignore the inspector. I don't need a
certificate of occupancy. I have my permit. The building meets all zoning
and setback requirements. It is not going to collapse. I will just build
it and not call for any inspections.


Hi,
Sounds like you're no good builder(?)

Could the footer at the opening be poured along with the garage
slab?

I like this idea.

It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty
of ply or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Pat" wrote in message
...
Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the
garage door? This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of
driving the truck inside. I am thinking of failing my inspection
so I can drive the truck inside and save the $500 pumping cost.

DanG wrote:
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty
of ply or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.

I did mine opposite. I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the
rebar after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.

On Sep 3, 5:40*am, Tony wrote:
DanG wrote:
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty
of ply or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.

I did mine opposite. *I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the
rebar after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
* Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.

I think the OP is from Oregon... So I'm assuming frost depth isnt that
much.

I'd be surprised if the footer is any deeper than 18 or 24".

wrt to another post... "how's he going to pour the slab if he cannot
reach?"

A couple extra chute segments will get him more than close enough to
place the slab mud, but not close enough to get it into the back
footing forms.

Pat, my suggestion is squeeze the pump price & then bit the
bullet......I think you'll be much happier with the process & the
result.

cheers
Bob

fftt wrote:
On Sep 3, 5:40 am, Tony wrote:
DanG wrote:
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty
of ply or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.
I did mine opposite. I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the
rebar after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.

I think the OP is from Oregon... So I'm assuming frost depth isnt that
much.

I'd be surprised if the footer is any deeper than 18 or 24".

wrt to another post... "how's he going to pour the slab if he cannot
reach?"

A couple extra chute segments will get him more than close enough to
place the slab mud, but not close enough to get it into the back
footing forms.

Come to think of it, don't people use wheelbarrows anymore? I helped
with a couple pours that way. It ain't fun but it doesn't take that
long with 2 or 3 guys each with a wheel barrow.

"Tony" wrote in message
...
DanG wrote:
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty of ply
or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.

I did mine opposite. I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the rebar
after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.

6 inches. The truck could probably cross it without problems if there was
no rebar or forms in it.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty of ply
or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.

--


This might work. I have a lot of 2X6 boards.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Pat" wrote in message
...
Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage
door? This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck
inside. I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck
inside and save the $500 pumping cost.

It is a part of the integrity of the structure.

I read your other post and you may find it to be much cheaper in the long
run to pay the $500 up front and do the job right. Town inspectors have
ways of making your life miserable and the legal fees can be many times
the 500 bucks. Do the job right.

You may appreciate that footing when the lack of it causes heaving or
settling in the years ahead. Much depends on the soil and climate
conditions, but codes are generally brought about for good reason.


The county has my money. I think they would be happy to never come out.

Pat, my suggestion is squeeze the pump price & then bit the
bullet......I think you'll be much happier with the process & the
result.

cheers
Bob

The pump price came from a contractor bidding on the job. It is probably
generous. However a pump would limit me to doing one pour. Wouldn't want
to pay twice.

On Sep 3, 4:20*pm, Tony wrote:
fftt wrote:
On Sep 3, 5:40 am, Tony wrote:
DanG wrote:
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty
of ply or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.
I did mine opposite. *I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the
rebar after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
* Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.

I think the OP is from Oregon... So I'm assuming frost depth isnt that
much.

I'd be surprised if the footer is any deeper than 18 or 24".

wrt to another post... "how's he going to pour the slab if he cannot
reach?"

A couple extra chute segments will get him more than close enough to
place the slab mud, but not close enough to get it into the back
footing forms.

Come to think of it, don't people use wheelbarrows anymore? *I helped
with a couple pours that way. *It ain't fun but it doesn't take that
long with 2 or 3 guys each with a wheel barrow.

Doh! Excellent point!

I totally forgot a very tiring experience I had nearly 40 years
ago......

A buddy & I were hired to unload a concrete truck......the whole 9
yards (I think) , two guys, two wheelbarrows

We wheeled the mud ~100ft for a garage .....only about 45 trips each,
done in just over an hour

We ran our asses off ....

As Tony suggested, wheelbarrows are doable & probably cheaper way
cheaper than the put.

cheers
Bob

fftt wrote:
On Sep 3, 4:20 pm, Tony wrote:
fftt wrote:
On Sep 3, 5:40 am, Tony wrote:
DanG wrote:
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty
of ply or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.
I did mine opposite. I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the
rebar after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.
I think the OP is from Oregon... So I'm assuming frost depth isnt that
much.
I'd be surprised if the footer is any deeper than 18 or 24".
wrt to another post... "how's he going to pour the slab if he cannot
reach?"
A couple extra chute segments will get him more than close enough to
place the slab mud, but not close enough to get it into the back
footing forms.
Come to think of it, don't people use wheelbarrows anymore? I helped
with a couple pours that way. It ain't fun but it doesn't take that
long with 2 or 3 guys each with a wheel barrow.

Doh! Excellent point!

I totally forgot a very tiring experience I had nearly 40 years
ago......

A buddy & I were hired to unload a concrete truck......the whole 9
yards (I think) , two guys, two wheelbarrows

We wheeled the mud ~100ft for a garage .....only about 45 trips each,
done in just over an hour

We ran our asses off ....

As Tony suggested, wheelbarrows are doable & probably cheaper way
cheaper than the put.

cheers
Bob

OP already turned down that idea, saying it was just (old) him and his
wife. (And not wanting to lay out 5 yards for the pumper, he also
presumably didn't wanna lay out a similar amount to hire a few strong
backs for a day, plus buying or renting wheelbarrows.)

--
aem sends...

On Sep 4, 6:43*pm, aemeijers wrote:
fftt wrote:
On Sep 3, 4:20 pm, Tony wrote:
fftt wrote:
On Sep 3, 5:40 am, Tony wrote:
DanG wrote:
It is not unusual to pour the close footing first, lay down plenty
of ply or planking and drive the truck over the filled up footing.
I did mine opposite. *I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the
rebar after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
* Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.
I think the OP is from Oregon... So I'm assuming frost depth isnt that
much.
I'd be surprised if the footer is any deeper than 18 or 24".
wrt to another post... "how's he going to pour the slab if he cannot
reach?"
A couple extra chute segments will get him more than close enough to
place the slab mud, but not close enough to get it into the back
footing forms.
Come to think of it, don't people use wheelbarrows anymore? *I helped
with a couple pours that way. *It ain't fun but it doesn't take that
long with 2 or 3 guys each with a wheel barrow.

Doh! * *Excellent point!

I totally forgot a very tiring experience I had nearly 40 years
ago......

A buddy & I were hired to unload a concrete truck......the whole 9
yards (I think) , two guys, two wheelbarrows

We wheeled the mud ~100ft for a garage .....only about 45 trips each,
done in just over an hour

We ran our asses off ....

As Tony suggested, wheelbarrows are doable & probably cheaper way
cheaper than the put.

cheers
Bob

OP already turned down that idea, saying it was just (old) him and his
wife. (And not wanting to lay out 5 yards for the pumper, he also
presumably *didn't wanna lay out a similar amount to hire a few strong
backs for a day, plus buying or renting wheelbarrows.)

--
aem sends...

sorry...missed your conga line comment..saw his "one old guy & a
woman" comment but didnt get the reference

but he doesn't live in a vacuum
there are people around to hire who could do that job for way less
than $500

cheers
Bob