When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

A few years ago when we had our service upgraded, two 30A breakers
were provided in the new breaker panel for the drier, but the original
wires were still routed to the old metal box with the 30A fuses. Now
one of those fuses has blown, and part of the big on/off switch has
broken.

As I see it, the fuses are no longer needed since we have breakers.
What's the best way to eliminate the old box, and safely connect the
240V wires to the wires from the drier? Is there some sort of junction
box that should be used? What exactly do I look for?

Thanks,
Art Harris

In article , Art Harris wrote:
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

That's bad. That means there was no overcurrent protection for those wires.

A few years ago when we had our service upgraded, two 30A breakers
were provided in the new breaker panel for the drier,

That's good.

but the original
wires were still routed to the old metal box with the 30A fuses.

That's common -- no point in making the upgrade any more complicated than it
needs to be. Nothing at all wrong with having both breakers and fuses, except
that it gives you one more point to have to check if the appliance doesn't
work.

Now
one of those fuses has blown, and part of the big on/off switch has
broken.

That's bad.

As I see it, the fuses are no longer needed since we have breakers.

That's correct.

What's the best way to eliminate the old box, and safely connect the
240V wires to the wires from the drier? Is there some sort of junction
box that should be used? What exactly do I look for?

I don't know of any reason why you couldn't use the old box as your junction
box, as long as you remove or permanently immobilize all of the moving parts
of the switch mechanism first. Of course, shut off power to the box before
touching anything.

The cheapest, sanest way I can see would be to use a 60 (same as 30) amp
fuseless pull-out disconnect box, like they use on A/C equiptment outside.
That way you still use the lugs instead of wire nuts, you don't have to
worry about any fuse blowing in which place confusion and you still have a
disconnect within reach (much closer than the panel), not that you should
ever need it, but I assume you are saying there is no plug on this unit?

I'm not an electrician though, and some may say you are now required to go
with a 4-wire set-up back to the main panel anyway.

"Art Harris" wrote in message
...
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

A few years ago when we had our service upgraded, two 30A breakers
were provided in the new breaker panel for the drier, but the original
wires were still routed to the old metal box with the 30A fuses. Now
one of those fuses has blown, and part of the big on/off switch has
broken.

As I see it, the fuses are no longer needed since we have breakers.
What's the best way to eliminate the old box, and safely connect the
240V wires to the wires from the drier? Is there some sort of junction
box that should be used? What exactly do I look for?

Thanks,
Art Harris

Art Harris wrote:
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

How was it connected, then? (Not that it's of any real import now, but
seems strange at best...)

....
As I see it, the fuses are no longer needed since we have breakers.
What's the best way to eliminate the old box, and safely connect the
240V wires to the wires from the drier? Is there some sort of junction
box that should be used? What exactly do I look for?

No reason you can't just use the current box as a junction box w/o the
fuses since they're no longer needed, anyway.

Other than that, if you would rather you could use a simple box or a
disconnect if you would like, but there's no real need other than a very
rare convenience, perhaps.

--

"Art Harris" wrote in message
...
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

A few years ago when we had our service upgraded, two 30A breakers
were provided in the new breaker panel for the drier, but the original
wires were still routed to the old metal box with the 30A fuses. Now
one of those fuses has blown, and part of the big on/off switch has
broken.

As I see it, the fuses are no longer needed since we have breakers.
What's the best way to eliminate the old box, and safely connect the
240V wires to the wires from the drier? Is there some sort of junction
box that should be used? What exactly do I look for?

Thanks,
Art Harris

Your situation is pretty common. I typically remove the fuse box and
disconnect, install a dryer outlet on the feeder, and a cord set on the
dryer

Overcurrent protection provided by something called "fuse".
Young people don't know what those are.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Art Harris wrote:
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line
in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box
with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit
breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

That's bad. That means there was no overcurrent protection
for those wires.

The quick and easy answer, is to go buy a couple new 30 amp
fuses, pop em in. Save the one that still works, just lay it
inside the box, in the bottom. Leave all the wiring for
later. Do all the upgrade when you buy your next dryer. This
is the answer I'd reccomend.

One answer is to shut off the double 30 breaker. Open the
big switch box, and remove the switch and fuses. Wirenut the
wires together, appropriately, and close the box. Might need
to drill off some rivets. You'll need some electrical know
how.

A more modern answer would be to have an electrican run
10/3WG wire from the panel box, and put in a new four prong
socket for the dryer. Wire the dryer to a four prong "whip".
Then, you will be ready for the next dryer you'll buy, in a
few years.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Art Harris" wrote in message
...
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line in
the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box with
two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit
breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

A few years ago when we had our service upgraded, two 30A
breakers
were provided in the new breaker panel for the drier, but
the original
wires were still routed to the old metal box with the 30A
fuses. Now
one of those fuses has blown, and part of the big on/off
switch has
broken.

As I see it, the fuses are no longer needed since we have
breakers.
What's the best way to eliminate the old box, and safely
connect the
240V wires to the wires from the drier? Is there some sort
of junction
box that should be used? What exactly do I look for?

Thanks,
Art Harris

Only for new dryers. The old ones run fine on two wires plus
ground.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Lefty" wrote in message
et...
some may say you are now required to go
with a 4-wire set-up back to the main panel anyway.

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Overcurrent protection provided by something called "fuse".
Young people don't know what those are.

Read again, kiddo, for comprehension this time. As the OP describes it, there
was originally no overcurrent protection for the conductors between the
service panel and the fused disconnect.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article
,
Art Harris wrote:
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line
in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box
with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit
breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

That's bad. That means there was no overcurrent protection
for those wires.

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
The quick and easy answer, is to go buy a couple new 30 amp
fuses, pop em in.

You really don't pay much attention to the posts you're responding to, do you?

What part of "the big on/off switch has broken" were you having trouble
understanding?

Since you got a 30 amp breaker in line, buy 50 amp fuses,
and you won't be troubled by them, again.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message ...
The quick and easy answer, is to go buy a couple new 30 amp
fuses, pop em in.

From the pole to the buss bar in the circuit panel of a new
house. I'm wondering if there is overcurrent protection,
there.

Of course the OP didn't describe any protection between his
meter and the dracula switch behind his dryer.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Stormin
Mormon" wrote:
Overcurrent protection provided by something called "fuse".
Young people don't know what those are.

Read again, kiddo, for comprehension this time. As the OP
describes it, there
was originally no overcurrent protection for the conductors
between the
service panel and the fused disconnect.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article
,
Art Harris wrote:
When we moved into our house (1982) there was a 240V line
in the
basement for a drier. The line connected to a metal box
with two 30A
fuses and a big on/off switch. But there were no circuit
breakers for
this line at the main breaker panel.

That's bad. That means there was no overcurrent protection
for those wires.

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Since you got a 30 amp breaker in line, buy 50 amp fuses,
and you won't be troubled by them, again.

Please don't try to answer any more electrical questions. It's clear you're in
over your head.

What part of "part of" did you miss? Doesn't have to be
crippling. The OP didn't say the switch was broken beyond
use.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Stormin
Mormon" wrote:
The quick and easy answer, is to go buy a couple new 30 amp
fuses, pop em in.

You really don't pay much attention to the posts you're
responding to, do you?

What part of "the big on/off switch has broken" were you
having trouble
understanding?

On 4/30/2009 8:26 PM Stormin Mormon spake thus:

Of course the OP didn't describe any protection between his
meter and the dracula switch behind his dryer.

I think you meant to type "Frankenstein switch". Don't remember the
Count messing with 'lectricity.


--
Save the Planet
Kill Yourself

- motto of the Church of Euthanasia (http://www.churchofeuthanasia.org/)

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Since you got a 30 amp breaker in line, buy 50 amp fuses,
and you won't be troubled by them, again.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message ...
The quick and easy answer, is to go buy a couple new 30 amp
fuses, pop em in.

He doesn't specify what kind of fuses, plug or cartridge, however 50 amp
isn't made in a plug fuse, and a 50 amp cartridge is physically larger than
a 30 and won't fit in the same socket

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
What part of "part of" did you miss? Doesn't have to be
crippling. The OP didn't say the switch was broken beyond
use.

Spend just two seconds thinking about it -- if it were still usable, why is he
coming here asking what do to about it??

Wow, thanks for all the replies!

After examining the broken switch, I realized I could force the non-
tracking blade to engage. Went to Home Depot and picked up a few 30A
TL fuses and I'm back in business!

I liked the suggestion of replacing the switch box with a 240V Outlet
and installing a plug on the drier's wire. I may do that in the
future.

What's the story with the 4-prong plugs? What is the purpose of the
fourth prong?

Art Harris

wrote:
What's the story with the 4-prong plugs? What is the purpose of the
fourth prong?

Up until a few years ago dryers and ranges exploited an exception in
the National Electrical Code, dating from WWII that allowed them to
share neutral and ground on one wire, to save copper for the war
effort.
Phil Simmonds finally got a proposal through to remove that exception.
He actually said "the war is over". You can still do it in a
grandfathered installation but all new installations require 4 wires.


Interesting. So if I were to get a new drier with a four-prong
connector, would I be required to run a new 4-wire electrical line to
the breaker panel? Or does it only apply when installing a new
electrical line?

Art Harris

"Art Harris" wrote in message
...
Interesting. So if I were to get a new drier with a four-prong
connector, would I be required to run a new 4-wire electrical line to
the breaker panel? Or does it only apply when installing a new
electrical line?

Art Harris

If you get a new dryer you get the plug to match what you have. You do not
need to rewire the socket. Most dryers do not come with a plug on them,
they can be set to use either a 3 or 4 wire connector. The installer will
put on the connector you need.
Many times you can negociate the price of the plug and the exhaust line in
the final price.