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#1
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
/I just replaced a drier circuit. My problem is that the drier is a
European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). |
#2
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
When you replaced the dryer circuit you ran two 'hot' wires from the same
side of the circuit breaker/fuse box. Go back to the breaker box and move one of the wires to the other side of the 120/240 circuit. "Jimbo" wrote in message ... /I just replaced a drier circuit. My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). |
#3
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
Ralph Mowery wrote:
When you replaced the dryer circuit you ran two 'hot' wires from the same side of the circuit breaker/fuse box. Go back to the breaker box and move one of the wires to the other side of the 120/240 circuit. .... Specifically, use a double-pole breaker in the distribution box in a location intended to house one -- they're designed for the purpose and will pick up the two opposing phase legs automagically. Plus, you'll have a single-lever breaker rather than two; much better (and Code-compliant whereas the other way isn't unless the two are made to be (and are) "ganged" together. -- |
#4
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
On Jan 25, 2:41*pm, dpb wrote:
Ralph Mowery wrote: When you replaced the dryer circuit you ran two 'hot' wires from the same side of the circuit breaker/fuse box. *Go back to the breaker box and move one of the wires to the other side of the 120/240 circuit. ... Specifically, use a double-pole breaker in the distribution box in a location intended to house one -- they're designed for the purpose and will pick up the two opposing phase legs automagically. *Plus, you'll have a single-lever breaker rather than two; much better (and Code-compliant whereas the other way isn't unless the two are made to be (and are) "ganged" together. -- Thanks Ralph and dpb. As soon as I read your reply I realized what I had done There was one vacant position and I moved a few single and double breaks around to tidy everything up and, well, you can guess what the result was. Sometimes, things are so obvious to another pair of eyes. Thanks again. |
#5
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
"Jimbo" wrote in message ... /I just replaced a drier circuit. My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). In addition to what has already been said, it is possible that you installed a "twin" circuit breaker, and not a double pole. The twin breaker has two locations for circuit conductors to attach, but only attaches to one buss on the panel. |
#6
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
On Jan 25, 3:40*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Jimbo" wrote in message ... /I just replaced a drier circuit. *My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. *Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. *How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). In addition to what has already been said, it is possible that you installed a "twin" circuit breaker, and not a double pole. The twin breaker has two locations for circuit conductors to attach, but only attaches to one buss on the panel. Not sure if that applies to my StabLok panel but I will check it out. I just reused the breaker that had previously been used for the original drier circuit. The circuit was removed during some basement renovations and we had been using a smaller 120V drier since. |
#7
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
Jimbo wrote:
On Jan 25, 3:40 pm, "RBM" wrote: "Jimbo" wrote in message ... /I just replaced a drier circuit. My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). In addition to what has already been said, it is possible that you installed a "twin" circuit breaker, and not a double pole. The twin breaker has two locations for circuit conductors to attach, but only attaches to one buss on the panel. Not sure if that applies to my StabLok panel but I will check it out. I just reused the breaker that had previously been used for the original drier circuit. The circuit was removed during some basement renovations and we had been using a smaller 120V drier since. StabLok? Uh-oh... http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm Seriously, you may wish to consider a complete replacement of your load center. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#8
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
On Jan 25, 5:05�pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Jimbo wrote: On Jan 25, 3:40 pm, "RBM" wrote: "Jimbo" wrote in message .... /I just replaced a drier circuit. �My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. �Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. �How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). In addition to what has already been said, it is possible that you installed a "twin" circuit breaker, and not a double pole. The twin breaker has two locations for circuit conductors to attach, but only attaches to one buss on the panel. Not sure if that applies to my StabLok panel but I will check it out. I just reused the breaker that had previously been used for the original drier circuit. �The circuit was removed during some basement renovations and we had been using a smaller 120V drier since. StabLok? �Uh-oh... http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm Seriously, you may wish to consider a complete replacement of your load center. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - yeah I had a stab loc breaker not trip on a dead short, the wiring melted and exploded before my eyes. splattered with hot metal. replace entire panel immediately |
#9
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
On Jan 25, 5:16*pm, " wrote:
On Jan 25, 5:05 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: Jimbo wrote: On Jan 25, 3:40 pm, "RBM" wrote: "Jimbo" wrote in message .... /I just replaced a drier circuit. My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). In addition to what has already been said, it is possible that you installed a "twin" circuit breaker, and not a double pole. The twin breaker has two locations for circuit conductors to attach, but only attaches to one buss on the panel. Not sure if that applies to my StabLok panel but I will check it out. I just reused the breaker that had previously been used for the original drier circuit. The circuit was removed during some basement renovations and we had been using a smaller 120V drier since. StabLok? Uh-oh... http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm Seriously, you may wish to consider a complete replacement of your load center. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - yeah I had a stab loc breaker not trip on a dead short, the wiring melted and exploded before my eyes. splattered with hot metal. replace entire panel immediately Wow ... now that is a scary report! My experience so far is that when shorts have happened as work is being done around the house, etc. is that the appropriate breakers have tripped. There is also one circuit that is constantly being overloaded - don't ask - and that trips with irritating regularity. However, there is another with the garage/ workshop on it that I've worried about: lights dim severely when power tools are switched on etc. but it has never tripped. I'm in Canada and my panel looks completely different to the ones pictured on the website. I'm going to call the City fire office and the utility company tomorrow to see if they have any information on this. |
#10
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
"Jimbo" wrote in message ... On Jan 25, 3:40 pm, "RBM" wrote: "Jimbo" wrote in message ... /I just replaced a drier circuit. My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). In addition to what has already been said, it is possible that you installed a "twin" circuit breaker, and not a double pole. The twin breaker has two locations for circuit conductors to attach, but only attaches to one buss on the panel. Not sure if that applies to my StabLok panel but I will check it out. I just reused the breaker that had previously been used for the original drier circuit. The circuit was removed during some basement renovations and we had been using a smaller 120V drier since. No, FPE made half sized single pole breakers and double pole breakers, but I don't believe they ever made twins |
#11
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Drier circuit - electrical question.
"Jimbo" wrote in message ... On Jan 25, 5:16 pm, " wrote: On Jan 25, 5:05 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: Jimbo wrote: On Jan 25, 3:40 pm, "RBM" wrote: "Jimbo" wrote in message ... /I just replaced a drier circuit. My problem is that the drier is a European model that requires 240 volt service only and has an regular drier plug with the common (white) wire cut away. Now my question: when I measure the voltages at the outlet with a digital volt meter, I get 120 volts on each leg but between the two hots, I don't get any reading. How can that be? The corresponding washer is also 240 but runs on a straight 240 volt circuit and uses standard 240 volt outlet and lug (horizontal rather than vertical blades on plug). In addition to what has already been said, it is possible that you installed a "twin" circuit breaker, and not a double pole. The twin breaker has two locations for circuit conductors to attach, but only attaches to one buss on the panel. Not sure if that applies to my StabLok panel but I will check it out. I just reused the breaker that had previously been used for the original drier circuit. The circuit was removed during some basement renovations and we had been using a smaller 120V drier since. StabLok? Uh-oh... http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm Seriously, you may wish to consider a complete replacement of your load center. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - yeah I had a stab loc breaker not trip on a dead short, the wiring melted and exploded before my eyes. splattered with hot metal. replace entire panel immediately Wow ... now that is a scary report! My experience so far is that when shorts have happened as work is being done around the house, etc. is that the appropriate breakers have tripped. There is also one circuit that is constantly being overloaded - don't ask - and that trips with irritating regularity. However, there is another with the garage/ workshop on it that I've worried about: lights dim severely when power tools are switched on etc. but it has never tripped. I'm in Canada and my panel looks completely different to the ones pictured on the website. I'm going to call the City fire office and the utility company tomorrow to see if they have any information on this. You might look here too (Canadian Federal Pioneer Electrical Hazards): http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/FederalPioneer.htm http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/schneider.htm Cheers, Jim |
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