We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

-Scott

SMcK wrote:
We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

-Scott

That's about it. Have some pipe dope on hand and buy a new flex hose.
Plan your install during a time when your local hardware emporium is
open because you may have a gotcha (e.g. when I hooked up a new dryer
for my old landlady, I found that the new dryer used a smaller diameter
flex hose than the old one, so I had to run to the store for a new fitting.)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"SMcK" wrote in message
...

We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

-Scott

An empty spray bottle, a teaspoon of liquid dish soap, enough water to fill
the bottle and paper towels to wipe up the residue.

Liberally spay every exposed leak and watch for bubbles to check for gas
leaks before you call it a day.

The tiny bubbles from the soap are not what you are watching for. If you
have a leak the bubble will expand.



--
Colbyt
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com

On Mar 21, 9:18*am, SMcK wrote:
We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. *The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. *I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? *Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. *I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

-Scott

Its easy to do unless the gas valve is bad, use new flex. 200$ is
alot for that. These days you should be able to get it for near free
on a new stove. I have an apliance guy that sells me top quality used
stuff installed for 150$, and the stoves compare to 6-800$ new stuff.
The quality on cheap stoves for rentals is junk these days.

On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 07:18:29 -0700 (PDT), SMcK
wrote:


We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

-Scott

I installed an over-the-stove microwave. The most time-consuming job
was correcting what the original installers botched up. The edge of
the walls were open which caused some exhaust (along with grease) to
enter between the walls. And these people were licensed construction
workers. It should be fairly easy to install a built-in oven, just
be prepared for other things and have a helper nearby.

SMcK wrote:
We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

Trivial. The hardest part is wrestling the behemoth. It IS easier than
installing a refrigerator.

If you can install a toaster or waffle iron - and have enough muscles - you
can install a gas stove.

Someone mentioned pipe-dope. An alternative is the yellow Teflon tape. Your
neighbors are correct on the installation, but for your peace of mind a NEW
flexible connection hose is usually appropriate.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
SMcK wrote:
We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

Trivial. The hardest part is wrestling the behemoth. It IS easier than
installing a refrigerator.

If you can install a toaster or waffle iron - and have enough muscles -
you can install a gas stove.

Someone mentioned pipe-dope. An alternative is the yellow Teflon tape.
Your neighbors are correct on the installation, but for your peace of mind
a NEW flexible connection hose is usually appropriate.

IIRC, some codes require a new flex hose for new appliances. They can go
bad over time and leak.

My local appliance dealer delivered at no additional charge (he is 1/2 mile
away) and my propane dealer came out one day to disconnect the old line,
came back the next and hook up and tested the new range for $60. Many years
ago some gas companied offered such services free or cheap but I have no
idea what they do now.

I'd take on such a project, but then, I've got a background
of working with natural gas and propane. Like the others
suggested. Take on the job daytime while the stores are
open. Always some stupid part you end up needing. Pipe dope
is a good idea, leak check, and so on. The flex hose is ten
bucks or so, worth every penny to replace it. Now's your
chance to scrub and polish the floor under the oven, which
seldom if ever gets scrubbed and polished.

Ask the guys at the store for advice. Overall, the job isn't
really killer dificult.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SMcK" wrote in message
...

We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. The local appliance
store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. I have a truck
big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? Some neighbors
say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven,
unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using
adapters
if necessary. I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and
stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

-Scott

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Overall, the job isn't
really killer dificult.

--

Isn't killer difficult? You're joking, right? It's two threaded fittings
on a flexible line, and a plug that goes into an electrical outlet.
Required tool list maxes out at one eye, one hand, and one crescent
wrench. (And the eye is probably optional.) On a scale of 1 to 10, 1
being changing a lightbulb, it's a 1.05.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Overall, the job isn't
really killer dificult.

--

Isn't killer difficult? You're joking, right? It's two threaded fittings
on a flexible line, and a plug that goes into an electrical outlet.
Required tool list maxes out at one eye, one hand, and one crescent
wrench. (And the eye is probably optional.) On a scale of 1 to 10, 1
being changing a lightbulb, it's a 1.05.

Two wrenches... always use a backup whenever you can...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

In article ,
Nate Nagel wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Overall, the job isn't
really killer dificult.

--

Isn't killer difficult? You're joking, right? It's two threaded fittings
on a flexible line, and a plug that goes into an electrical outlet.
Required tool list maxes out at one eye, one hand, and one crescent
wrench. (And the eye is probably optional.) On a scale of 1 to 10, 1
being changing a lightbulb, it's a 1.05.

Two wrenches... always use a backup whenever you can...

nate

If I were to concede that, you'd probably ask for a second hand to
operate it, and a second eye for depth perception.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Nate Nagel wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Overall, the job isn't
really killer dificult.

--
Isn't killer difficult? You're joking, right? It's two threaded fittings
on a flexible line, and a plug that goes into an electrical outlet.
Required tool list maxes out at one eye, one hand, and one crescent
wrench. (And the eye is probably optional.) On a scale of 1 to 10, 1
being changing a lightbulb, it's a 1.05.
Two wrenches... always use a backup whenever you can...

nate

If I were to concede that, you'd probably ask for a second hand to
operate it, and a second eye for depth perception.

Well, honestly, there are very few jobs that I perform with one eye
closed and one hand tied behind my back...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. Any ideas on how to handle this? I wonder if maybe there's a
valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. FWIW - the house was built
in 1950, and I suspect this is the original location for the oven.

-Scott



On Mar 21, 8:45*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
*Nate Nagel wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
*"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Overall, the job isn't
really killer dificult.

--
Isn't killer difficult? You're joking, right? It's two threaded fittings
on a flexible line, and a plug that goes into an electrical outlet.
Required tool list maxes out at one eye, one hand, and one crescent
wrench. (And the eye is probably optional.) On a scale of 1 to 10, 1
being changing a lightbulb, it's a 1.05.
Two wrenches... *always use a backup whenever you can...

nate

If I were to concede that, you'd probably ask for a second hand to
operate it, and a second eye for depth perception.

Well, honestly, there are very few jobs that I perform with one eye
closed and one hand tied behind my back...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

SMcK wrote in news:fc40f76c-c6cc-4662-bc34-05ca9490bec7
@e18g2000yqo.googlegroups.com:

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. Any ideas on how to handle this? I wonder if maybe there's a
valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. FWIW - the house was built
in 1950, and I suspect this is the original location for the oven.

-Scott

Since gas is tricky and potentially bad for the house and you, I advise to
get a plumber/gasfitter to work on it, unless you really know what you are
doing. Number one: You want to get the gas shut off somewhere between the
mains coming in and the location of your oven. Without that (in real good
working order - you won't want that main shutoff to fail!), you are close
to being in grave danger, even if you knew wwaht you are doing.


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 09:54:24 -0700 (PDT), against all advice,
something compelled SMcK , to say:

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. Any ideas on how to handle this?



It's probably time to call the gas company. There is a shutoff,
but chances are it will shut the gas off to the entire house. If
you have a gas furnace and/or water heater, you'll need to make
sure the pilot lights get relit, if they have pilot lights.

When you get the gas shut off, it would be a fine time to put
shutoff valves at the various appliances so you won't run into
this problem in the future.

Don't screw around with the gas. Burning to death is a horrible
way to go.
--

Real men don't text.

In article ,
Han wrote:

SMcK wrote in news:fc40f76c-c6cc-4662-bc34-05ca9490bec7
@e18g2000yqo.googlegroups.com:

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. Any ideas on how to handle this? I wonder if maybe there's a
valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. FWIW - the house was built
in 1950, and I suspect this is the original location for the oven.

-Scott

Since gas is tricky and potentially bad for the house and you, I advise to
get a plumber/gasfitter to work on it, unless you really know what you are
doing. Number one: You want to get the gas shut off somewhere between the
mains coming in and the location of your oven. Without that (in real good
working order - you won't want that main shutoff to fail!), you are close
to being in grave danger, even if you knew wwaht you are doing.

Grave danger? Nuts.

0. check for and eliminate sources of ignition, such as a candle-powered
miner's helmet on your head, or a cigarette in your mouth.

1. gather together one slicer valve, preconfigured in the closed
position, one roll of teflon tape, one finger, and an appropriate
wrench.

2. remove flexible pipe from supply pipe.

3. insert finger (note that subsequent steps will be slightly easier if
the finger used is not your own.)

4. clean threads

5. wrap threads with tape

6. remove finger

7. install valve

Smitty Two wrote in
news
In article ,
Han wrote:

SMcK wrote in
news:fc40f76c-c6cc-4662-bc34-05ca9490bec7
@e18g2000yqo.googlegroups.com:

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve
to shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's
just the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube
and the oven. Any ideas on how to handle this? I wonder if maybe
there's a valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. FWIW - the
house was built in 1950, and I suspect this is the original
location for the oven.

-Scott

Since gas is tricky and potentially bad for the house and you, I
advise to get a plumber/gasfitter to work on it, unless you really
know what you are doing. Number one: You want to get the gas shut
off somewhere between the mains coming in and the location of your
oven. Without that (in real good working order - you won't want that
main shutoff to fail!), you are close to being in grave danger, even
if you knew wwaht you are doing.

Grave danger? Nuts.

0. check for and eliminate sources of ignition, such as a
candle-powered miner's helmet on your head, or a cigarette in your
mouth.

1. gather together one slicer valve, preconfigured in the closed
position, one roll of teflon tape, one finger, and an appropriate
wrench.

2. remove flexible pipe from supply pipe.

3. insert finger (note that subsequent steps will be slightly easier
if the finger used is not your own.)

4. clean threads

5. wrap threads with tape

6. remove finger

7. install valve

I think I know a little bit (indeed little bit) about this "job". I
would hesitate to do it anyway. I sure would not like to be within 500
ft of the house if my SIL or son tried it. The OP knows nothing about
this type of work, so I still advise him to get someone who does. Maybe
you are willing to go and do it? (I don't know where Smitty or Scotty
live, but I hope not in 07410).

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Smitty Two wrote:

Grave danger? Nuts.

0. check for and eliminate sources of ignition, such as a
candle-powered miner's helmet on your head, or a cigarette in your
mouth.

1. gather together one slicer valve, preconfigured in the closed
position, one roll of teflon tape, one finger, and an appropriate
wrench.

2. remove flexible pipe from supply pipe.

3. insert finger (note that subsequent steps will be slightly easier
if the finger used is not your own.)

4. clean threads

5. wrap threads with tape

6. remove finger

7. install valve

Instead of a finger, slip a FINGER COT over the outlet. A finger cot looks
like a teeny condom (and, for all I know, used as such by some non-Texans).
Since there's only about 2 ounces of pressue in a gas line, the tension of
the cot should be sufficient. You can get them at the pharmacy, along with
knowing looks from the sales clerk.

And a lit cigarette won't ignite natural gas.

In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

Grave danger? Nuts.

0. check for and eliminate sources of ignition, such as a
candle-powered miner's helmet on your head, or a cigarette in your
mouth.

1. gather together one slicer valve, preconfigured in the closed
position, one roll of teflon tape, one finger, and an appropriate
wrench.

2. remove flexible pipe from supply pipe.

3. insert finger (note that subsequent steps will be slightly easier
if the finger used is not your own.)

4. clean threads

5. wrap threads with tape

6. remove finger

7. install valve

Instead of a finger, slip a FINGER COT over the outlet. A finger cot looks
like a teeny condom (and, for all I know, used as such by some non-Texans).
Since there's only about 2 ounces of pressue in a gas line, the tension of
the cot should be sufficient. You can get them at the pharmacy, along with
knowing looks from the sales clerk.


Wouldn't that make step 4 somewhat difficult?

"SMcK" wrote in message
...

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. Any ideas on how to handle this? I wonder if maybe there's a
valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. FWIW - the house was built
in 1950, and I suspect this is the original location for the oven.

-Scott

Easy. Shut off gas at the meter. Install service valve between pipe coming
out of the floor and new flex pipe. Relight any pilot lights on water
heaters furnaces ect.

Plumbing code requires shut off valves on any appliance hookup and the
valves are cheap.

Instead of teflon tape, use pipe dope. This is recomended for gas as any
loose shards of tape can bugger thing up if they get in the flow.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"SMcK" wrote in message
...

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. Any ideas on how to handle this? I wonder if maybe there's a
valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. FWIW - the house was built
in 1950, and I suspect this is the original location for the oven.

-Scott

Easy. Shut off gas at the meter. Install service valve between pipe coming
out of the floor and new flex pipe. Relight any pilot lights on water
heaters furnaces ect.

Plumbing code requires shut off valves on any appliance hookup and the
valves are cheap.

Instead of teflon tape, use pipe dope. This is recomended for gas as any
loose shards of tape can bugger thing up if they get in the flow.


or look in the basement. my house is similar to yours (and similar age)
the shutoff for the range is above ceiling in the basement.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Mar 24, 7:17*am, Nate Nagel wrote:
Roger Shoaf wrote:
"SMcK" wrote in message
....

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. *There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. *Any ideas on how to handle this? *I wonder if maybe there's a
valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. *FWIW - the house was built
in 1950, and I suspect this is the original location for the oven.

-Scott

Easy. *Shut off gas at the meter. *Install service valve between pipe coming
out of the floor and new flex pipe. *Relight any pilot lights on water
heaters furnaces ect.

Plumbing code requires shut off valves on any appliance hookup and the
valves are cheap.

Instead of teflon tape, use pipe dope. *This is recomended for gas as any
loose shards of tape can bugger thing up if they get in the flow.

or look in the basement. *my house is similar to yours (and similar age)
the shutoff for the range is above ceiling in the basement.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is a good chance he doesnt have one at all. Apparently at one
time the main concern was the valve leaking.


Jimmie

On Tue 24 Mar 2009 04:17:26a, Nate Nagel told us...

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"SMcK" wrote in message
..
.

OK, I just pulled the oven away from the wall and there is no valve to
shut off between the floor and the flexible metal pipe. There's just
the metal pipe coming up through the floor, the flexible tube and the
oven. Any ideas on how to handle this? I wonder if maybe there's a
valve below the floor, in the crawlspace. FWIW - the house was built
in 1950, and I suspect this is the original location for the oven.

-Scott

Easy. Shut off gas at the meter. Install service valve between pipe
coming out of the floor and new flex pipe. Relight any pilot lights on
water heaters furnaces ect.

Plumbing code requires shut off valves on any appliance hookup and the
valves are cheap.

Instead of teflon tape, use pipe dope. This is recomended for gas as
any loose shards of tape can bugger thing up if they get in the flow.


or look in the basement. my house is similar to yours (and similar age)
the shutoff for the range is above ceiling in the basement.

nate


The OP has a crawlspace, not a basement.

--
Wayne Boatwright

"One man's meat is another man's poison"
- Oswald Dykes, English writer, 1709.

The OP has a crawlspace, not a basement.


Correct. And I went down into it to look for a valve. I didn't find
one. What I did find was that one of the waste pipes has been leaking
into the crawlspace. So I need to get a plumber out to replace some
old pipes. It's always somethin'

-Scott

On Mar 21, 10:18*am, SMcK wrote:
We'll be buying a new gas oven soon. *The local appliance store wants
a few hundred bucks to deliver and install. *I have a truck big enough
to haul it and neighbors to help get it in the house.

How difficult is it to install the new oven? *Some neighbors say it's
just a matter of shutting off a valve behind the oven, unhooking the
coupling, and rehooking the new oven to the coupling, using adapters
if necessary. *I don't imagine the assembly of the oven and stovetop
parts will be that difficult.

What say you folks?

-Scott

The hardest part is hooking up the anti-tip-over thing. The last one
I did connected to one of the back adjustment legs. You need to slide
the stove into position, determine where that leg goes, slide the
stove back out, install the "device" (a small bracket), and slide the
stove back in.

Easiest way for me was to put a little powder on the floor -- flour,
corn starch, anything. Then it's easy to determine where the leg
goes.

The bracket grabs the back leg so the stove can't flip in you stand on
the open door or something like that.

It's pretty easy if you have linoleum or such but if you have stone or
tile it's a bit of a pain.

Good luck with it.