In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure out
about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that has
a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then it
will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns or tire
inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. A
lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded?
I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj. It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

Thanks,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure out
about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that
has a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to
the tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then
it will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is
there a better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I
assume I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns
or tire inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I
read the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the
compressor. A lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the compressor
is badly corroded? I don't know how old the unit is. The model is
wl604004aj. It seems the drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard
to turn.

Thanks,

MC

One more question. I noticed some compressor has a shut off ball valve on
the outlet. Is this a good idea? I can control the flow via the regulator
what is the purpose of an additional shut off? Just insurance?

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure
out about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that
has a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to
the tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then
it will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is
there a better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I
assume I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns
or tire inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can
they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I
read the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the
compressor. A lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the compressor
is badly corroded? I don't know how old the unit is. The model is
wl604004aj. It seems the drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard
to turn.

Thanks,

MC

One more question. I noticed some compressor has a shut off ball valve on
the outlet. Is this a good idea? I can control the flow via the
regulator what is the purpose of an additional shut off? Just insurance?

MC

You asked several questions, soooo.......

On mine, I put a female quick connect coming out of the compressor. Then
quick connects on all the hoses and tools.

The corroded drain is not a good thing.

Use plain Teflon tape.

The coily things are handy, but age quickly, crack easily if cold, and fail
catastrophically, sending flying shards.

A ball ninety will let you turn off the air quickly in case you cut a hose
or cut a hose AND the regulator fails.

Steve

On Mar 8, 7:16*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. *Now I am trying to figure out
about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. *So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that has
a female push in fittings on both ends. *One end will just connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then it
will always connect with my hose. *Does that sound reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. *Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? *I have those but not
sure if they are identical. *Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? *1/4"? *3/8"? *I will have 1/4" fittings. *I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? *Those are for blow guns or tire
inflators? *I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. *I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. *A
lot of brown fluid came out. *Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded?
I don't know how old the unit is. *The model is wl604004aj. *It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

Thanks,

MC

Wow...lots of questions


first of all.....forget the horsepower rating.

All the oyu can bank on is the cfm number at some psi

or the amps & the volts....is this a 220v unit? becuase the very most
oyu can get out of a 110v / 20 amp circuit is just a taste over 2 hp

the standard configuration is a male q/d on one end of the hose & a
female q/d on the other.....otherwise, how would connect hose to
additional hose.

A male "output" fitting would not be a good idea...you need a female
output q/d...they're self-sealing

I have some 1/4" hose (kinda wimpy for big air consuming tools) &
some 3/8" hose (kinda heavy & cumbersome)

The coiled hose, is just hose, coiled.....great for a blow gun at a
machine tool but I'd never use it for construction air tools. The coil
hose will drive a nail gun but it will proably drive you crazy,
getting in the way & fighting you.

Air hose is jsut like natural gas, water piping or
electicity ......longer runs need bigger hose (wre) to prevent
pressure (voltage) drop. Short runs can do fine with smaller hose, it
all depends on the tool cfm consumption

that brown liquid is rusty water...it the tank is thin, you might be
in trouble...if its a decent thickness, maybe not.

cheers
Bob

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing
and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying
to figure out
about the fittings I need.

CY: That's a fairly large one. A HP is typically 748 watts,
so 4 HP is about 3000 watts. That's about 28 amps at 110 VAC
or 14 amps, at 220 VAC. You will likely need a 220 volt
power line?

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting.
So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have
a hose that has
a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just
connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in
fittings, then it
will always connect with my hose. Does that sound
reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

CY: Nope. The female end has the built in air valve, so the
female end is always on the pressurized side.

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is
this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have
those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe
dope?

CY: Good to use both. Teflon tape on the male threads, and
then some rectorseal.

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4"
fittings. I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow
guns or tire
inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can
they?

CY: The larger hose will carry more air, wtih less "line
loss". I'd suggest to get the 3/8 hose if at all possible.

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the
compressor. I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the
compressor. A
lot of brown fluid came out.

CY: That's rusty water.

Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded?

CY: Maybe, who can tell.

I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj.
It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

CY: I'd have to guess so! Some oil or WD-40 might help.
Since the comressor is 4 HP, it is probably splash
lubricated. Look for the oil drain plug, and drain out the
old oil. Replace it with the necessary new oil. Probably
ND-30 motor oil. ND stands for Non-Detergent. Will attract
less water from the humidity in the air. Napa and other auto
parts stores have ND-30, about the same price as the usual
car type motor oil.

Thanks,

MC

CY: You're welcome.

Yes, the ball valve is a good idea. Cheap insurance.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...


One more question. I noticed some compressor has a shut off
ball valve on
the outlet. Is this a good idea? I can control the flow
via the regulator
what is the purpose of an additional shut off? Just
insurance?

MC

MiamiCuse wrote:
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and
stapling I got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to
figure out about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it
seems may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a
hose that has a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will
just connect to the tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings,
then it will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable
or is there a better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this
basically the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have
those but not sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use
pipe dope?

Teflon tape is fine. Be sure when you buy fittings that you get the right type.
There are more than one type in the stores, and they don't intermingle.


What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I
assume I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow
guns or tire inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or
can they?

Bigger hose for bigger runs or higher volume uses. Mine is all 3/8". Better to
use a larger long hose than an extension cord to reach distances.


The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I read the
users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the
compressor. A lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the
compressor is badly corroded? I don't know how old the unit is. The
model is wl604004aj. It seems the drain screw is also partly
corroded, very hard to turn.

How do you know it was never drained? How much water came out?

FWIW, I acquired an old compressor tank. I talked to the county "tank and
boiler" inspector about getting it tested, and he volunteered to come by, and
tested several spots on the tank with an untrasound thickness guage, and assured
me the tank was fine.

Unless you know it was done recently, replace the compressor oil soon with oil
specified in the manual.

"fftt" wrote in message
...
On Mar 8, 7:16 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure out
about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that
has
a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then
it
will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns or tire
inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. A
lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the compressor is badly
corroded?
I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj. It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

Thanks,

MC

Wow...lots of questions


first of all.....forget the horsepower rating.

All the oyu can bank on is the cfm number at some psi

or the amps & the volts....is this a 220v unit? becuase the very most
oyu can get out of a 110v / 20 amp circuit is just a taste over 2 hp

the standard configuration is a male q/d on one end of the hose & a
female q/d on the other.....otherwise, how would connect hose to
additional hose.

A male "output" fitting would not be a good idea...you need a female
output q/d...they're self-sealing

I have some 1/4" hose (kinda wimpy for big air consuming tools) &
some 3/8" hose (kinda heavy & cumbersome)

The coiled hose, is just hose, coiled.....great for a blow gun at a
machine tool but I'd never use it for construction air tools. The coil
hose will drive a nail gun but it will proably drive you crazy,
getting in the way & fighting you.

Air hose is jsut like natural gas, water piping or
electicity ......longer runs need bigger hose (wre) to prevent
pressure (voltage) drop. Short runs can do fine with smaller hose, it
all depends on the tool cfm consumption

that brown liquid is rusty water...it the tank is thin, you might be
in trouble...if its a decent thickness, maybe not.

cheers
Bob

================================================== =================

Thanks Bob...how do I know if the tank is thin?

I should have drained the tank to inspect. But I didn't. Oh well...

I understand the hose being male/female point, it makes sense. So I will
keep the compressor outlet female push-in 1/4". Then make a hose one end
male (to go with the compressor end) and the other end female, to be ready
for male ended tools, then make another double ended male/male push fitting
in case a female push in tool.

I understand the hose being male/female point, it makes sense. So I
will keep the compressor outlet female push-in 1/4". Then make a
hose one end male (to go with the compressor end) and the other end
female, to be ready for male ended tools, then make another double
ended male/male push fitting in case a female push in tool.

There are two types of female fittings. The one I've seen permanently
attached to tanks is spring loaded in the open position. You can
connect the hose with one hand just by pushing. The one usually found
on the end of a hose is spring-loaded in the closed position. You have
to pull back with one hand while attaching the fitting with the other.

I've never seen a female connector on a tool. Besides, you can change
them yourself. Skip the male/male unless you need it.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

In addition to the other replies, I think the only good use for the coiled
hoses is over a workbench in an air-plumbed shop and over a tire changer in
a garage. It'll hang retracted and out of the way overhead until needed.

On Mar 8, 9:16*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. *Now I am trying to figure out
about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. *So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that has
a female push in fittings on both ends. *One end will just connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then it
will always connect with my hose. *Does that sound reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. *Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? *I have those but not
sure if they are identical. *Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? *1/4"? *3/8"? *I will have 1/4" fittings. *I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? *Those are for blow guns or tire
inflators? *I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. *I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. *A
lot of brown fluid came out. *Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded?
I don't know how old the unit is. *The model is wl604004aj. *It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

Thanks,

MC

Based on some 40 years of commercial shop experience, here are some
guidelines you may find useful:
1) Never use a hose smaller than 3/8" ID. It will have 1/4" NPT
fittings anyway.
2) Seal threaded fittings with a non hardening sealant like Permatex
#2. Teflon tape has a nasty habit of letting shreds into the tiny
parts of expensive air tools and spray guns and is a poor sealant
besides. At any auto parts department.
3) Use a high quality rubber hose, no PVC or plastic. Polyurethane
hose is OK, but not as easy to handle.
4) Download the Milton air fittings catalog and be amazed at all the
neat stuff they have. Milton is pretty much the gold standard of air
handling.
5) Find a dealer that sells Milton products and load up on Series V
fittings. For openers you will need #764 couplers and #760 plugs.
These are higher flow fittings that are plug compatible with the
ubiquitous M fittings that everybody else sells. The 30% or better
flow with V-types will be essential to make any HVLP spray gun work
right, or deliver full power to a big hairy IR twin hammer impact gun.
6) If your pressure regulator isn't working, replace it. You'll have
to throttle down for paint spray, and run higher for air tools. Mlton
is good, Harbor Freight cheaper and not bad.
7) If you do some air supply plumbing in your shop, use black iron
pipe and fittings and install drain cocks.
8) Buy some air tool oil and use it. If you can't find any, automotive
ATF fluid works just fine.
9) Don't overtighten brass fittings. You will eventually have to take
them apart and seized brass is no joke. That's why we use Permatex.
10) If your hose is too short, don't add more hose. Get an extension
cord and move the compressor.

Now go have fun and enjoy your new toy.

Joe

"SteveBell" wrote in message
a.org...

I understand the hose being male/female point, it makes sense. So I
will keep the compressor outlet female push-in 1/4". Then make a
hose one end male (to go with the compressor end) and the other end
female, to be ready for male ended tools, then make another double
ended male/male push fitting in case a female push in tool.

There are two types of female fittings. The one I've seen permanently
attached to tanks is spring loaded in the open position. You can
connect the hose with one hand just by pushing. The one usually found
on the end of a hose is spring-loaded in the closed position. You have
to pull back with one hand while attaching the fitting with the other.

I've never seen a female connector on a tool. Besides, you can change
them yourself. Skip the male/male unless you need it.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

I understand. However, when I go to the store to buy fittings, they don't
label them differently - spring loaded in the closed position vs spring
loaded in the open position. Or is there a way to tell them apart?

Thanks,

MC

Thanks for the detailed reply. It helps me understand a great deal. Now to
your question, it is oiless and it operates on a 15A 120V circuit, not 220V,
but it's heavy!

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing
and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying
to figure out
about the fittings I need.

CY: That's a fairly large one. A HP is typically 748 watts,
so 4 HP is about 3000 watts. That's about 28 amps at 110 VAC
or 14 amps, at 220 VAC. You will likely need a 220 volt
power line?

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting.
So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have
a hose that has
a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just
connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in
fittings, then it
will always connect with my hose. Does that sound
reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

CY: Nope. The female end has the built in air valve, so the
female end is always on the pressurized side.

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is
this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have
those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe
dope?

CY: Good to use both. Teflon tape on the male threads, and
then some rectorseal.

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4"
fittings. I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow
guns or tire
inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can
they?

CY: The larger hose will carry more air, wtih less "line
loss". I'd suggest to get the 3/8 hose if at all possible.

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the
compressor. I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the
compressor. A
lot of brown fluid came out.

CY: That's rusty water.

Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded?

CY: Maybe, who can tell.

I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj.
It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

CY: I'd have to guess so! Some oil or WD-40 might help.
Since the comressor is 4 HP, it is probably splash
lubricated. Look for the oil drain plug, and drain out the
old oil. Replace it with the necessary new oil. Probably
ND-30 motor oil. ND stands for Non-Detergent. Will attract
less water from the humidity in the air. Napa and other auto
parts stores have ND-30, about the same price as the usual
car type motor oil.

Thanks,

MC

CY: You're welcome.

"Bob F" wrote in message
...
MiamiCuse wrote:
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and
stapling I got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to
figure out about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it
seems may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a
hose that has a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will
just connect to the tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings,
then it will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable
or is there a better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this
basically the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have
those but not sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use
pipe dope?

Teflon tape is fine. Be sure when you buy fittings that you get the right
type. There are more than one type in the stores, and they don't
intermingle.


What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I
assume I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow
guns or tire inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or
can they?

Bigger hose for bigger runs or higher volume uses. Mine is all 3/8".
Better to use a larger long hose than an extension cord to reach
distances.


The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I
read the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the
compressor. A lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the
compressor is badly corroded? I don't know how old the unit is. The
model is wl604004aj. It seems the drain screw is also partly
corroded, very hard to turn.

How do you know it was never drained? How much water came out?

FWIW, I acquired an old compressor tank. I talked to the county "tank and
boiler" inspector about getting it tested, and he volunteered to come by,
and tested several spots on the tank with an untrasound thickness guage,
and assured me the tank was fine.

Unless you know it was done recently, replace the compressor oil soon with
oil specified in the manual.



I know it was never drained as I asked the previous owner, when he last
drained the tank, and he looked at me and said he never did.

The compressor is oiless so there is no need to replace oil?

Here is the online reference for the unit.

http://www.chpower.com:88/chpdfs/man...0_0308-web.pdf

Thanks,

MC

Joe wrote:
8) Buy some air tool oil and use it. If you can't find any, automotive
ATF fluid works just fine.

I've been using Marvel Mystery oil. How would you compare that to the above?

10) If your hose is too short, don't add more hose. Get an extension
cord and move the compressor.

Make sure you use a heavy duty cord if you do that. Too small of a cord can fry
the motor. I do fine with a large home-built powered reel with 150 feet of hose,
and an occasional additional 50 feet (all 3/8"). But my compressor is a heavy 2
stage, and not movable and probably supplies significantly more pressure than
the OP's.

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Mar 8, 9:16 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure out
about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that
has
a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then
it
will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns or tire
inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. A
lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the compressor is badly
corroded?
I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj. It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

Thanks,

MC

Based on some 40 years of commercial shop experience, here are some
guidelines you may find useful:
1) Never use a hose smaller than 3/8" ID. It will have 1/4" NPT
fittings anyway.
2) Seal threaded fittings with a non hardening sealant like Permatex
#2. Teflon tape has a nasty habit of letting shreds into the tiny
parts of expensive air tools and spray guns and is a poor sealant
besides. At any auto parts department.
3) Use a high quality rubber hose, no PVC or plastic. Polyurethane
hose is OK, but not as easy to handle.
4) Download the Milton air fittings catalog and be amazed at all the
neat stuff they have. Milton is pretty much the gold standard of air
handling.
5) Find a dealer that sells Milton products and load up on Series V
fittings. For openers you will need #764 couplers and #760 plugs.
These are higher flow fittings that are plug compatible with the
ubiquitous M fittings that everybody else sells. The 30% or better
flow with V-types will be essential to make any HVLP spray gun work
right, or deliver full power to a big hairy IR twin hammer impact gun.
6) If your pressure regulator isn't working, replace it. You'll have
to throttle down for paint spray, and run higher for air tools. Mlton
is good, Harbor Freight cheaper and not bad.
7) If you do some air supply plumbing in your shop, use black iron
pipe and fittings and install drain cocks.
8) Buy some air tool oil and use it. If you can't find any, automotive
ATF fluid works just fine.
9) Don't overtighten brass fittings. You will eventually have to take
them apart and seized brass is no joke. That's why we use Permatex.
10) If your hose is too short, don't add more hose. Get an extension
cord and move the compressor.

Now go have fun and enjoy your new toy.

Joe

================================================== ===========

Thanks Joe, is this the product you were referring to use instead of tape
and dope?

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm

Thank you for all the useful information!

MC

On Sun, 8 Mar 2009 21:32:27 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Joe wrote:
8) Buy some air tool oil and use it. If you can't find any, automotive
ATF fluid works just fine.

I've been using Marvel Mystery oil. How would you compare that to the above?


Marvel Mystery OIl "is" ATF.

"SteveB" wrote:


-snip-
A ball ninety will let you turn off the air quickly in case you cut a hose
or cut a hose AND the regulator fails.

or have a leaky quick-connect downstream. Close the ball valve and
you can leave everything ready to go in the AM without listening to
the compressor kick on all night.

Jim

wrote:
On Sun, 8 Mar 2009 22:54:42 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Yes, the ball valve is a good idea. Cheap insurance.

I agree. If a hose blows in a well insulated and weatherstripped
garage, the internal pressure will blow the garage right off the
foundation if you dont shut off that ball valve quickly. You dont
want to be messing around with a slow regulator valve when the walls
and roof of your garage are bowing outward with as much as 3 feet of
flex. If the walls are tightly bolted to the concrete floor, the roof
might blow right off the garage instead, and collapse the walls on you
or others inside the garage.

Air compressors are dangerous, particularly when used indoors in newer
buildings that are well sealed. It's far better to use them outdoors
or in well ventilated buildings. Even then, beware. If a hose breaks
suddenly, it can whip around and decapitate both humans and animals in
a fraction of a second. Tens of thousands of men die every year from
air compressor accidents.

Contact OSHA before ever using an air compressor for the first time.
Before using any air powered device, always get proper training and
certification. Always wear safety glasses, ear protection, and full
body armour. Always keep children and pets away from air compressors
when they are in use. Never plug in an air compressor until it has
been inspected by a certified licensed inspector.


It's worse than you imagine! Actually USING a compressor in a confined space
will suck all the air out of the room causing an implosion! Before that
happens, however, paint can lids will pop open, jars will shatter, and the
cat will have a nosebleed.

Best to open a window slightly, on the opposite side of the room from the
compressor.

As the other poster said, you can get a little over two HP
out of a 15/110 circuit. I ran it on a calculator, and got
2.5 HP.

My experience with a tiny oilless compressor, it runs a lot
better if I put a drop or two of oil in the air intake,
every year or so. I don't use mine very often.

The other writer's point is very good, teflon tape sometimes
breaks off, and clogs equipment. Rectorseal #5 is great for
thread sealing. Permatex #2 non hardening should also be
good.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the detailed reply. It helps me understand a
great deal. Now to
your question, it is oiless and it operates on a 15A 120V
circuit, not 220V,
but it's heavy!

"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message
...
CY: The larger hose will carry more air, wtih less "line
loss". I'd suggest to get the 3/8 hose if at all
possible.

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the
compressor. I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the
compressor. A
lot of brown fluid came out.

CY: That's rusty water.

Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded?

CY: Maybe, who can tell.

I don't know how old the unit is. The model is
wl604004aj.
It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

"SteveBell" wrote in message
la.org...

I understand the hose being male/female point, it makes sense.
So I will keep the compressor outlet female push-in 1/4". Then
make a hose one end male (to go with the compressor end) and the
other end female, to be ready for male ended tools, then make
another double ended male/male push fitting in case a female push
in tool.

There are two types of female fittings. The one I've seen
permanently attached to tanks is spring loaded in the open
position. You can connect the hose with one hand just by pushing.
The one usually found on the end of a hose is spring-loaded in the
closed position. You have to pull back with one hand while
attaching the fitting with the other.

I've never seen a female connector on a tool. Besides, you can
change them yourself. Skip the male/male unless you need it.

I understand. However, when I go to the store to buy fittings, they
don't label them differently - spring loaded in the closed position
vs spring loaded in the open position. Or is there a way to tell
them apart?

You'll just have to examine them yourself. The default-open ones will
have the sliding collar moved away from the quick-connect opening. The
default-closed will be next to the opening. Play with the fitting on
the sample compressor at the store.

Your store may not carry the normally-open version. I've never seen it
at the big-box places. I only mentioned it because you're rebuilding
parts of your machine.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

There was a time when a guy in Los Angeles, when a guy in a
tightly sealed garage turned on his compressor. Like you
say, it sucked all the air out of the garage, and pumped it
into the tank. He became disoriented, from lack of oxygen,
and passed out. His wife thought there was something wrong,
and tried to open the man door. The door swung out, the
vacuum pressure was too great for her to overcome. She
called 911, and the dispatcher told her to take a cordless
drill, and drill a couple air holes in the garage door,
where it's thinnest. She did, and saved her husband's life.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...

It's worse than you imagine! Actually USING a compressor in
a confined space
will suck all the air out of the room causing an implosion!
Before that
happens, however, paint can lids will pop open, jars will
shatter, and the
cat will have a nosebleed.

Best to open a window slightly, on the opposite side of the
room from the
compressor.

On Mar 9, 4:43*am, wrote:
On Sun, 8 Mar 2009 22:54:42 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
Yes, the ball valve is a good idea. Cheap insurance.

I agree. *If a hose blows in a well insulated and weatherstripped
garage, the internal pressure will blow the garage right off the
foundation if you dont shut off that ball valve quickly. *You dont
want to be messing around with a slow regulator valve when the walls
and roof of your garage are bowing outward with as much as 3 feet of
flex. If the walls are tightly bolted to the concrete floor, the roof
might blow right off the garage instead, and collapse the walls on you
or others inside the garage. *

Air compressors are dangerous, particularly when used indoors in newer
buildings that are well sealed. *It's far better to use them outdoors
or in well ventilated buildings. *Even then, beware. *If a hose breaks
suddenly, it can whip around and decapitate both humans and animals in
a fraction of a second. *Tens of thousands of men die every year from
air compressor accidents.

Contact OSHA before ever using an air compressor for the first time.
Before using any air powered device, always get proper training and
certification. *Always wear safety glasses, ear protection, and full
body armour. *Always keep children and pets away from air compressors
when they are in use. *Never plug in an air compressor until it has
been inspected by a certified licensed inspector.

For further information, go to:http://www.osha.gov

Safety First !!!!

Greg F.

WOW are you serious - blow garage out of the foundation? I can
understand that if the hose breaks it will spin and dart around like a
punctured balloon and could be hazardous...but this is not any more or
less hazardous then going to a gas station and use their air pump to
inflate tires right other than it's outdoors? Can it really blow the
roof off?

Where would I find an inspector to check out the compressor I have?

Thanks,

MC

On Mar 8, 11:32*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe wrote:
8) Buy some air tool oil and use it. If you can't find any, automotive
ATF fluid works just fine.

I've been using Marvel Mystery oil. How would you compare that to the above?

Can't really say. ATF and air tool oil are compounded to work with
rubber O-rings, seals and such. MMO may well be as compatible since as
an upper cylinder lube it shouldn't attack intake manifold seals.

10) If your hose is too short, don't add more hose. Get an extension
cord and move the compressor.

Make sure you use a heavy duty cord if you do that. Too small of a cord can fry
the motor. I do fine with a large home-built powered reel with 150 feet of hose,
and an occasional additional 50 feet (all 3/8"). But my compressor is a heavy 2
stage, and not movable and probably supplies significantly more pressure than
the OP's.

You got me there, Bob. I should have considered that some young 'uns
may not remember the laws of diminishing voltage with increasing
length. Good point.

Joe

On Mar 8, 11:42*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message

...
On Mar 8, 9:16 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I
got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure out
about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems
may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that
has
a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to the
tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then
it
will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is there a
better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically
the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not
sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I assume
I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns or tire
inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I read
the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. A
lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the compressor is badly
corroded?
I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj. It seems the
drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

Thanks,

MC

Based on some 40 years of commercial shop experience, here are some
guidelines you may find useful:
1) Never use a hose smaller than 3/8" ID. It will have 1/4" NPT
fittings anyway.
2) Seal threaded fittings with a non hardening sealant like Permatex
#2. Teflon tape has a nasty habit of letting shreds into the tiny
parts of expensive air tools and spray guns and is a poor sealant
besides. At any auto parts department.
3) Use a high quality rubber hose, no PVC or plastic. Polyurethane
hose is OK, but not as easy to handle.
4) Download the Milton air fittings catalog and be amazed at all the
neat stuff they have. Milton is pretty much the gold standard of air
handling.
5) Find a dealer that sells Milton products and load up on Series V
fittings. For openers you will need #764 couplers and #760 plugs.
These are higher flow fittings that are plug compatible with the
ubiquitous M fittings that everybody else sells. The 30% or better
flow with V-types will be essential to make any HVLP spray gun work
right, or deliver full power to a big hairy IR twin hammer impact gun.
6) If your pressure regulator isn't working, replace it. You'll have
to throttle down for paint spray, and run higher for air tools. Mlton
is good, Harbor Freight cheaper and not bad.
7) If you do some air supply plumbing in your shop, use black iron
pipe and fittings and install drain cocks.
8) Buy some air tool oil and use it. If you can't find any, automotive
ATF fluid works just fine.
9) Don't overtighten brass fittings. You will eventually have to take
them apart and seized brass is no joke. That's why we use Permatex.
10) If your hose is too short, don't add more hose. Get an extension
cord and move the compressor.

Now go have fun and enjoy your new toy.

Joe

================================================== ===========

Thanks Joe, is this the product you were referring to use instead of tape
and dope?

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ounds/a_thread...

Thank you for all the useful information!

MC

NO!!! You want a non hardening sealant. It is labelled "Aviation-Form-
A-Gasket #3" and product #80017. Widely used for years in aircraft
engine work, and particularly a favorite of VW mechanics who needed to
assemble Bug engines without oil leaks that could be later
disassembled. Soluble in alcohol for easy cleanup, if need be. I like
it for natural gas pipe fitting, too. HTH

Joe

wrote:
On Sun, 8 Mar 2009 21:32:27 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Joe wrote:
8) Buy some air tool oil and use it. If you can't find any,
automotive ATF fluid works just fine.

I've been using Marvel Mystery oil. How would you compare that to
the above?


Marvel Mystery OIl "is" ATF.

Interesting. Can you relate where you got this info?

Dextron, or Mercon? (If I got thos right from memory)

On Mar 9, 8:05*am, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Mar 2009 08:12:29 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
As the other poster said, you can get a little over two *HP
out of a 15/110 circuit. I ran it on a calculator, and got
2.5 HP.

When you find that mythical motor that puts out 1HP per 800w the world
will beat a path to your door.
About all you will ever get from a 120v@15a rated motor is ~1HP.
Campbell Hausfeld et al got sued over those 5HP stickers they put on
their 1HP compressors and the whole "class" got a free power tool.

http://www.lawcash.com/attorney/3392...devilbiss-air-...

748 watts happens to be 1 hp of electrical power.....of course motors
are not 100% efficient at turning lectrical energy into mechanical
work.

But even standard efficiency motors are in the 80%+ range with the new
premeum units having higher than 90%

so 15amps @ 120v = 1800 watts ( 2.4 hp electrical)

factoring in 85% efficiency gives you ~2 hp

a 20amp circuit would give you 2.7 hp (at 85%) and nearly 3 hp at 91%

so those mythical motors (1 hp at 800 watts......93.5%) may not exist
but some are pretty close

cheers
Bob

On Mar 8, 8:15*pm, "SteveBell" wrote:
I understand the hose being male/female point, it makes sense. *So I
will keep the compressor outlet female push-in 1/4". *Then make a
hose one end male (to go with the compressor end) and the other end
female, to be ready for male ended tools, then make another double
ended male/male push fitting in case a female push in tool.

There are two types of female fittings. The one I've seen permanently
attached to tanks is spring loaded in the open position. You can
connect the hose with one hand just by pushing. The one usually found
on the end of a hose is spring-loaded in the closed position. You have
to pull back with one hand while attaching the fitting with the other.

I've never seen a female connector on a tool. Besides, you can change
them yourself. Skip the male/male unless you need it.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

I beleive the ones of which you write are called "push to connect"

MC- if you;re interested in push to connect style or learnign about
air q/d's

go to www.mcmaster.com

& search on air quick disconnects.....good info & some video as well

I use & standardized on the "industrial" style fittings, made by Amflo
(used to be in Santa Ana, CA until they moved back east).
The most popular in SoCal are industrial & automotive styles

I'm not a fan of Milton since they seem to have their own model type
designations that seem to run counter to the industrial / aerospace
world.

I have used the push to connect but chose not to standardize on them
(slightly more expensive) but maybe should have, since they allow one-
handed connection.


about the tank wall thickness....I can tell by look & feel & sound, if
it a relatively new, non-commerical unit, its most likely thin

....my tank is thin (less than 1/8"..closer to 1/16), my nieghbor's
used antique unit is thick more like 3/16 or 1/4"

cheers
Bob

fftt wrote:
On Mar 9, 8:05 am, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Mar 2009 08:12:29 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
As the other poster said, you can get a little over two HP
out of a 15/110 circuit. I ran it on a calculator, and got
2.5 HP.
When you find that mythical motor that puts out 1HP per 800w the world
will beat a path to your door.
About all you will ever get from a 120v@15a rated motor is ~1HP.
Campbell Hausfeld et al got sued over those 5HP stickers they put on
their 1HP compressors and the whole "class" got a free power tool.

http://www.lawcash.com/attorney/3392...devilbiss-air-...

748 watts happens to be 1 hp of electrical power.....of course motors
are not 100% efficient at turning lectrical energy into mechanical
work.

But even standard efficiency motors are in the 80%+ range with the new
premeum units having higher than 90%

so 15amps @ 120v = 1800 watts ( 2.4 hp electrical)

factoring in 85% efficiency gives you ~2 hp

a 20amp circuit would give you 2.7 hp (at 85%) and nearly 3 hp at 91%

so those mythical motors (1 hp at 800 watts......93.5%) may not exist
but some are pretty close

cheers
Bob

One horse power equals 746 watts hp(E) in electrical terms.
I'm lysdexic too!

TDD

On Mar 10, 8:02*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 10 Mar 2009 10:36:45 -0700 (PDT), fftt
wrote:

748 watts happens to be 1 hp of electrical power.....of course motors
are not 100% efficient at turning lectrical energy into mechanical
work.

But even standard efficiency motors are in the 80%+ range with the new
premeum units having higher than 90%

so 15amps @ 120v = 1800 watts ( 2.4 hp electrical)

factoring in 85% efficiency gives you *~2 hp

a 20amp circuit would give you 2.7 hp (at 85%) *and nearly 3 hp at 91%

so those mythical motors (1 hp at 800 watts......93.5%) may not exist
but some are pretty close

I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA in
the 12-13a range on the nameplate.

I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA in
the 12-13a range on the nameplate.

I'm not disputing what you see but I'm pretty sure my calcs & info
are correct; based on the definition of a hp(E) and typical motor
efficiencies.

Maybe the motors have really bad efficiencies or the mfr's have them
tagged "conservatively" ?

The current draw for even an "old school" / giant motor 1hp should
be ~7.5 or so...
I remember my dad having a GIANT 1hp rated motor from the 60's & the
nameplate read 7.2 / 3.6

.....12 to 13 amps seems way too high. JMHO

cheers
Bob

fftt wrote:
....
But even standard efficiency motors are in the 80%+ range with the new
premeum units having higher than 90%
so 15amps @ 120v = 1800 watts ( 2.4 hp electrical)
factoring in 85% efficiency gives you ~2 hp
a 20amp circuit would give you 2.7 hp (at 85%) and nearly 3 hp at 91%
so those mythical motors (1 hp at 800 watts......93.5%) may not exist
but some are pretty close
I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA in
the 12-13a range on the nameplate.

I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA in
the 12-13a range on the nameplate.

I'm not disputing what you see but I'm pretty sure my calcs & info
are correct; based on the definition of a hp(E) and typical motor
efficiencies.

Maybe the motors have really bad efficiencies or the mfr's have them
tagged "conservatively" ?

The current draw for even an "old school" / giant motor 1hp should
be ~7.5 or so...
I remember my dad having a GIANT 1hp rated motor from the 60's & the
nameplate read 7.2 / 3.6

....12 to 13 amps seems way too high. JMHO


You're leaving out the other factor besides the efficiency (as well as
assuming new motors of only 1 hp are really built to such high
efficiency numbers) which is the power factor.

Spec's for a fairly typical Baldor (not inexpensive) general-purpose 1hp
motor...

Catalog Number: VL3509
Specification Number: 35C013X964
Horsepower: 1
Voltage: 115/230
Hertz: 60
Phase: 1
Full Load Amps: 11.8/5.9
Usable at 208 Volts: 6.1
RPM: 3450
Frame Size: 56C
Service Factor: 1.25
....
Full Load Efficiency: 68
Power Factor: 82
....

hp = 115*11.8*0.68*0.82/748 -- 1.0

This is a list price motor of $400.

At least a couple in the same general classification were 0.65/0.65
efficience/power factor (at roughly $300 price point).


One of their (very few at this low a hp) premium efficiency 1hp motors is

Catalog Number: EL3510
Specification Number: 35J385S758G1
Horsepower: 1
Voltage: 115/230
Hertz: 60
Phase: 1
Full Load Amps: 8.5/4.25
Usable at 208 Volts: N/A
RPM: 1760
....
Full Load Efficiency: 82.5
Power Factor: 91

hp = 115*8.5*0.82.5*0.91/748 -- 0.98

That comes at a price, however -- $643 catalog list

At a high-enough usage and for long enough, eventually one would make up
the initial cost difference, but for intermittent use it would take
quite a long time.

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
fftt wrote:
...
But even standard efficiency motors are in the 80%+ range with the new
premeum units having higher than 90%
so 15amps @ 120v = 1800 watts ( 2.4 hp electrical)
factoring in 85% efficiency gives you ~2 hp
a 20amp circuit would give you 2.7 hp (at 85%) and nearly 3 hp at 91%
so those mythical motors (1 hp at 800 watts......93.5%) may not exist
but some are pretty close
I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA in
the 12-13a range on the nameplate.

I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA
in
the 12-13a range on the nameplate.

I'm not disputing what you see but I'm pretty sure my calcs & info
are correct; based on the definition of a hp(E) and typical motor
efficiencies.

Maybe the motors have really bad efficiencies or the mfr's have them
tagged "conservatively" ?

The current draw for even an "old school" / giant motor 1hp should
be ~7.5 or so...
I remember my dad having a GIANT 1hp rated motor from the 60's & the
nameplate read 7.2 / 3.6

....12 to 13 amps seems way too high. JMHO


You're leaving out the other factor besides the efficiency (as well as
assuming new motors of only 1 hp are really built to such high efficiency
numbers) which is the power factor.

Spec's for a fairly typical Baldor (not inexpensive) general-purpose 1hp
motor...

Catalog Number: VL3509
Specification Number: 35C013X964
Horsepower: 1
Voltage: 115/230
Hertz: 60
Phase: 1
Full Load Amps: 11.8/5.9
Usable at 208 Volts: 6.1
RPM: 3450
Frame Size: 56C
Service Factor: 1.25
...
Full Load Efficiency: 68
Power Factor: 82
...

hp = 115*11.8*0.68*0.82/748 -- 1.0

This is a list price motor of $400.

At least a couple in the same general classification were 0.65/0.65
efficience/power factor (at roughly $300 price point).


One of their (very few at this low a hp) premium efficiency 1hp motors is

Catalog Number: EL3510
Specification Number: 35J385S758G1
Horsepower: 1
Voltage: 115/230
Hertz: 60
Phase: 1
Full Load Amps: 8.5/4.25
Usable at 208 Volts: N/A
RPM: 1760
...
Full Load Efficiency: 82.5
Power Factor: 91

hp = 115*8.5*0.82.5*0.91/748 -- 0.98

That comes at a price, however -- $643 catalog list

At a high-enough usage and for long enough, eventually one would make up
the initial cost difference, but for intermittent use it would take quite
a long time.

--

Total bull****. There is no allowance for windage, polar deviation, time
zone variations, and whether the person using it is right or left handed.

Totally skewed and unacceptable.

Steve ;-)

On Mar 8, 10:19*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
One more question. *I noticed some compressor has a shut off ball valve on
the outlet. *Is this a good idea? *I can control the flow via the regulator
what is the purpose of an additional shut off? * Just insurance?

It's a matter of convenience.

Turning the airflow off via the regulator can be a pain because you
have to screw-screw-screw on the knob for several seconds, and mess up
your regulator setting in the process. Some regulator knobs are very
difficult to turn and are very hard on the wrist. The ball valve
allows you to quickly shut off the air in a split second and not lose
your regulator setting.

Just be sure to run the tool or plug in a blow gun to relieve the air
pressure in the hose before unplugging it from the compressor. There
is a lot of pressure and volume built up in that hose, and when you
unplug it all that pressure escapes through the open male end. That
blows all the loose crud in the area around and straight into your
eyes.

wrote in message
...
On Mar 8, 10:19 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
One more question. I noticed some compressor has a shut off ball valve on
the outlet. Is this a good idea? I can control the flow via the regulator
what is the purpose of an additional shut off? Just insurance?

It's a matter of convenience.

Turning the airflow off via the regulator can be a pain because you
have to screw-screw-screw on the knob for several seconds, and mess up
your regulator setting in the process. Some regulator knobs are very
difficult to turn and are very hard on the wrist. The ball valve
allows you to quickly shut off the air in a split second and not lose
your regulator setting.

Just be sure to run the tool or plug in a blow gun to relieve the air
pressure in the hose before unplugging it from the compressor. There
is a lot of pressure and volume built up in that hose, and when you
unplug it all that pressure escapes through the open male end. That
blows all the loose crud in the area around and straight into your
eyes.

Reply:

And if you DON'T unscrew the regulator every time, the springs become
compressed, and lessen in their function. Every person who welds will tell
you that the instructions say to unscrew the regulator T handles EVERY time
you are putting the equipment away. Regulators last longer if you don't
leave them screwed down. It's just the facts, ma'am.

Steve