I have an exterior door which is wood (with a glass window in the
middle). It was unstained wood when it was installed so I stained it
with a stain/waterproofing product. I think, unfortunately, I forgot
to stain the bottom of the door.

Over the last couple weeks it has gotten harder and harder to open.
Now it won't close. I checked the hinges and they're all still tight.
I can see the marks from the door jam on the door where its rubbing.
Should I use my electric sander or planer and sand down those places
until it closes? Then should I stain and waterproof (or laquer it) or
will that trap the moisture inside? Also, if I sand it down, won't it
shrink back to normal size in the summer, leaving me with gaps? I
assume the reason for the swelling of the door is the rain we've
received in San Francisco in the last few weeks.

Thanks!

On Jan 5, 6:56*pm, BoscoXavier wrote:
I have an exterior door which is wood (with a glass window in the
middle). It was unstained wood when it was installed so I stained it
with a stain/waterproofing product. I think, unfortunately, I forgot
to stain the bottom of the door.

Over the last couple weeks it has gotten harder and harder to open.
Now it won't close. I checked the hinges and they're all still tight.
I can see the marks from the door jam on the door where its rubbing.
Should I use my electric sander or planer and sand down those places
until it closes? Then should I stain and waterproof (or laquer it) or
will that trap the moisture inside? Also, if I sand it down, won't it
shrink back to normal size in the summer, leaving me with gaps? I
assume the reason for the swelling of the door is the rain we've
received in San Francisco in the last few weeks.

Thanks!

Sand it till it works, it will expand contract even sealed in paint,
its the house that is also moving, all you can do it give it the
clearance it needs it wont open visable gaps later.

I was just looking at it again and the deadbolt is almost flush with
the edge of the door. So I won't be able to sand much off of the door
before the deadbolt will stick out. What about sanding down the side
of the door jam?

Thanks

On Jan 5, 5:06*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 5, 6:56*pm, BoscoXavier wrote:



I have an exterior door which is wood (with a glass window in the
middle). It was unstained wood when it was installed so I stained it
with a stain/waterproofing product. I think, unfortunately, I forgot
to stain the bottom of the door.

Over the last couple weeks it has gotten harder and harder to open.
Now it won't close. I checked the hinges and they're all still tight.
I can see the marks from the door jam on the door where its rubbing.
Should I use my electric sander or planer and sand down those places
until it closes? Then should I stain and waterproof (or laquer it) or
will that trap the moisture inside? Also, if I sand it down, won't it
shrink back to normal size in the summer, leaving me with gaps? I
assume the reason for the swelling of the door is the rain we've
received in San Francisco in the last few weeks.

Thanks!

Sand it till it works, it will expand contract even sealed in paint,
its the house that is also moving, all you can do it give it the
clearance it needs it wont open visable gaps later.

"BoscoXavier" wrote in message
...

I was just looking at it again and the deadbolt is almost flush with
the edge of the door. So I won't be able to sand much off of the door
before the deadbolt will stick out. What about sanding down the side
of the door jam?

Standard practice to reduce the width of a door appears to
be to (remove and) plane the hinge edge of the door. This may be
inconvenient in wet or cold weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

"Don Phillipson" wrote in news:gjuenu$6c5$1
@theodyn.ncf.ca:

"BoscoXavier" wrote in message
news:9f893f4d-c9d4-42c2-8910-18cb30b0c9f8
@r10g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

I was just looking at it again and the deadbolt is almost flush with
the edge of the door. So I won't be able to sand much off of the door
before the deadbolt will stick out. What about sanding down the side
of the door jam?

Standard practice to reduce the width of a door appears to
be to (remove and) plane the hinge edge of the door. This may be
inconvenient in wet or cold weather.




This may be inconvenient....

LOL, what a PR man!


Red Green version: It'll be a pain in the ass and you'll freeze your
balls off in **** weather.

On Jan 5, 8:09*pm, "Don Phillipson" wrote:
"BoscoXavier" wrote in message

...

I was just looking at it again and the deadbolt is almost flush with
the edge of the door. So I won't be able to sand much off of the door
before the deadbolt will stick out. What about sanding down the side
of the door jam?

Standard practice to reduce the width of a door appears to
be to (remove and) plane the hinge edge of the door. *This may be
inconvenient in wet or cold weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Standard for maybe a carpenter charging by the hour who is out of
work, Ive adjusted maybe 50 doors, redone hundreds, never did, never
will remove it if the locking side sticks, you remove the hinge side
if hinge side was improperly installed.

Thanks for the advice.

Ransley, since its the locking side that's sticking, how do you
suggest sanding it down when the deadbolt is almost flush with the
edge of the door?

On Jan 5, 6:56*pm, BoscoXavier wrote:
I have an exterior door which is wood (with a glass window in the
middle). It was unstained wood when it was installed so I stained it
with a stain/waterproofing product. I think, unfortunately, I forgot
to stain the bottom of the door.

Over the last couple weeks it has gotten harder and harder to open.
Now it won't close. I checked the hinges and they're all still tight.
I can see the marks from the door jam on the door where its rubbing.
Should I use my electric sander or planer and sand down those places
until it closes? Then should I stain and waterproof (or laquer it) or
will that trap the moisture inside? Also, if I sand it down, won't it
shrink back to normal size in the summer, leaving me with gaps? I
assume the reason for the swelling of the door is the rain we've
received in San Francisco in the last few weeks.

Thanks!

Might be a real cheap door badly installed. IMO, things like these are
perpetual problems. You will surely futz with it for months, maybe
years, and finally in exasperation, have it done over to a higher
standard. If you don't have the patience to tolerate the problem, have
it corrected now. Install a fiberglass door that won't be affected by
the climate, takes a decent finish and then go on to other things.Good
luck.

Joe

On Mon, 5 Jan 2009 16:56:28 -0800 (PST), BoscoXavier
wrote:

I have an exterior door which is wood (with a glass window in the
middle). It was unstained wood when it was installed so I stained it
with a stain/waterproofing product. I think, unfortunately, I forgot
to stain the bottom of the door.

Over the last couple weeks it has gotten harder and harder to open.
Now it won't close. I checked the hinges and they're all still tight.
I can see the marks from the door jam on the door where its rubbing.
Should I use my electric sander or planer and sand down those places
until it closes? Then should I stain and waterproof (or laquer it) or
will that trap the moisture inside? Also, if I sand it down, won't it
shrink back to normal size in the summer, leaving me with gaps? I
assume the reason for the swelling of the door is the rain we've
received in San Francisco in the last few weeks.

Thanks!


Yes, yes and yes. The door is wood. Wood (even when dead) changes
dimensions with moisture changes. More changes occur across the grain
than with the grain, and some kinds of wood are more stable than
others. Most doors are constructed in a way to minimize
expansion/contraction, but obviously, the larger the cross grain, the
more movement you will get. Trim the door just enough to allow it to
close--that will minimize the gap during a dry spell. Allow the door
to fully dry before applying finish. Water is wood's enemy, so
maintaining a finish will greatly help extend the life of the door.
Storm doors will protect too.

On Jan 5, 8:09 pm, "Don Phillipson" wrote:
"BoscoXavier" wrote in message

...

I was just looking at it again and the deadbolt is almost flush with
the edge of the door. So I won't be able to sand much off of the
door before the deadbolt will stick out. What about sanding down
the side of the door jam?

Standard practice to reduce the width of a door appears to
be to (remove and) plane the hinge edge of the door. This may be
inconvenient in wet or cold weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Standard for maybe a carpenter charging by the hour who is out of
work, Ive adjusted maybe 50 doors, redone hundreds, never did, never
will remove it if the locking side sticks, you remove the hinge side
if hinge side was improperly installed.

Sooo, what would you do?

What, three minutes to gather tools, mark the interference point, pop
the pins, lay the door on its edge? Ten minutes to plain? 5 minutes to
check fit? Say 5 more to replane? 5 to reinstall?

Toss a thin coat of primer on the bottom & plained side, others if
needed, & put the door back. Wait for dry weather to properly paint.

Maybe it's only sticking because the top hinge screws have loosened?
Middle hinge?

If it's not sticking so bad it can barely be opened, I'll often just rub
parafin, a candle, or even soap on it until better weather comes so I
can fiddle with it. Actually I have storm doors so it's not a huge
problem unless it's zero type weather.

When finishing a door, don't forget the bottom lip. A properly
finished, paint, varnish, whatever, will prevent humidity problems by
sealing the door against it. If there isn't a storm door, there should
be. Protects the entrance door from weather & adds a little insulation
to the door.

I would recommend against sanding the jamb as you mentioned. Putting a
long straight edge against the jamb on both sides are there any gaps,
trying to see if door frame is installed properly.

On Jan 6, 11:50*am, BoscoXavier wrote:
Thanks for the advice.

Ransley, since its the locking side that's sticking, how do you
suggest sanding it down when the deadbolt is almost flush with the
edge of the door?

Are you this stupid normally or did you stay at a Holiday Inn last
night?

Remove the deadbolt and lockset. Plane down the edge of the door until
it fits. Cut the recesses for the deadbolt and lockset deeper if you
need to. Reinstall.

On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 07:58:04 -0800 (PST), hank
wrote:

I would recommend against sanding the jamb as you mentioned. Putting a
long straight edge against the jamb on both sides are there any gaps,
trying to see if door frame is installed properly.

I agree. Reshaping a jamb is asking for trouble down the road. The
jamb should be plumb and the top absolutely level else you might curse
it everytime you use it, or try to use it.

replying to BoscoXavier, David maijala wrote:
Basically by now the door is not important, particularly if you are sitting
there and still awaiting an answer after 8 years. If you are, please get help
- not for the door, but yourself.

--
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