In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?

I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally? Is one better than the
other? The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high( I'm installing a
drop ceiling so not going to the top is not a concern)
Thanks
John

John wrote:
In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?

A gap works better for mudding/taping, yes.

I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally? Is one better than the
other? The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high( I'm installing a
drop ceiling so not going to the top is not a concern)

What an inconvenient set of dimensions...

If it were 14-even, a single long would suffice and 2-12's the other
way...as for the length of seams, draw it out and add up the distances.

For a novice, though, unless you can use the full length pieces
horizontally, you may find taping more edge joints w/ the finished edges
easier and a better job than the butt joint horizontally w/ the ends.

You can get 9-footers, too, if you wish and would have the full wall
height covered. Again, for the non-experienced, that's what I'd
suggest. That 3-4" in the corner is going to be an extra joint but it
can be feathered out w/ the corner. It's going to be a fair amount of
overage, but that'll be so whichever way you go.

--

On Jul 10, 7:32*am, John wrote:
In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?

I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally? Is one better than the
other? The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high( I'm installing a
drop ceiling so not going to the top is not a concern)
Thanks
John

Half? No, but you do save signifcant amount in a 'normal' room, i.e.,
one with a normal amount of doors/windows as the butt joints with
disappear against casings or are onely short runs (above/below doors
and windows). I don't know how it will work in your basement with
those odd dimensions. If you hang vertically, consider ordering in 9'
sheets. If you are going to do the taping and it is your first time,
try to avoid butt joints as much as possible.

Taping verticle joints is a PIA as you can't reach the top without
standing on something and can't reach the bottom if you _are_ standing
on something.

Dpb gives a good discussion of the problems.

Harry K

On Jul 10, 10:40*am, dpb wrote:
John wrote:
In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?

A gap works better for mudding/taping, yes.

Works better? How so?

I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally? Is one better than the
other? The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high( I'm installing a
drop ceiling so not going to the top is not a concern)

What an inconvenient set of dimensions...

If it were 14-even, a single long would suffice and 2-12's the other
way...as for the length of seams, draw it out and add up the distances.

Where do you live that you can get a 12' board into a basement? I
frequently have issues with 8 footers.

For a novice, though, unless you can use the full length pieces
horizontally, you may find taping more edge joints w/ the finished edges
easier and a better job than the butt joint horizontally w/ the ends.

Butt joints are not a problem if you don't have them land on a stud.
You can have the butt joint land in between studs and use a backer
board to attach the butt ends. There are products sold for this,
http://www.ezbacker.com/rock_splicer.html , but you can use a 4 to 6
inch stip of plywood with some shimming. This from Toolbase.org:
"Drywall butt joint systems provide slightly inset drywall butt joints
that require less finishing and sanding, and result in flat, seamless
finished butt joints that are also less prone to cracking due to
framing movement because the butt joints are allowed to float."
If you use a wider strip of plywood, say 6 to 8 inches, and attach a
1" strip of something ~1/8" thick to either long edge of the plywood,
between the drywall and the plywood, the screws at the butt joint will
pull the end of the drywall into that minor recess and essentially
taper the butt end of the boards. It's simple to make entirely flush
butt joints that way, rather than the apparently flush butt joints you
usually get by feathering out the butt joint 18" so you don't see the
hump.

You can get 9-footers, too, if you wish and would have the full wall
height covered. *Again, for the non-experienced, that's what I'd
suggest. *That 3-4" in the corner is going to be an extra joint but it
can be feathered out w/ the corner. *It's going to be a fair amount of
overage, but that'll be so whichever way you go.

The OP said he doesn't care about going the full height, so there's no
reason to use 9' boards. I'm not sure where you're getting the 3-4"
thing - the room dimensions are both under a full sheet length/width.

R

John,

In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?

I think the gap is recommended, but I didn't spend much time doing that
when we installed our drywall. Unless you really get fussy about it,
you'll probably have a small gap between sheets anyway, without trying.
And it's not the end of the world if they butt tightly.

I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally?

In theory, taping a horizontal joint is supposed to be less work and less
visible than vertical joints.

Having said that, I prefer to hang sheets vertically, especially if
you're working alone. You can just set the sheet against the wall, and
use a lever to push the sheet against the ceiling with your foot while
you screw it in place. That's much easier than trying to lift a sheet
horizontally, and hold it up against the ceiling while you screw it down.

Also, you can usually use smaller (lighter) sheets vertically, since a
horizontal sheet would typically span the full wall width without a seam.
End butt joints are much harder to hide than the tapered edges on the
sides of a sheet.

Yes, you'll probably be going up and down the ladder to tape a vertical
joint, but I didn't find it to be that big of a deal (and we had 14 feet
high walls in a few rooms). It's good exercise and you'll usually need to
climb the ladder to do the ceiling corner joint anyway.

I drywalled the ceilings and walls of our garage, and our entire 1500
sq/ft house. All sheets were hung vertically, and though I'm a complete
amateur, you would find it nearly impossible to point out the joints now
that it is painted.

Take your time, use fiberglass mesh tape on all seams, and apply three
coats of joint compound using progressively larger knives (6", 8", 12").
Hold the knive mostly perpendicular to the wall, as you can make the
knive bend into a depression if you hold it flatter. Let each coat dry
thoroughly before applying the next (usually overnight). I use a special
corner knife for the corners. If you run into a particularly challenging
spot, don't hesitate to apply a fourth or fifth coat to achieve best
results. When sanding, be careful not to oversand and create a depression
(you can always apply another coat if that happens). Prime with a pva
primer, then paint.

The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high

Order 9 foot sheets from a drywall supplier, have them delivered, and
hang them vertically. Order a few extras in case you make mistakes
(cutting holes for outlets etc.) or sheets get damaged. It's usually
easier to hang a full sheet over door/window openings, and cut the extra
away with a drywall saw after the sheet is fastened down.

If your walls are still open (i.e. no insulation yet), I recommend taking
pictures of all the walls before insulating/drywalling. Believe me, a few
years from now you will be thankful to know where a wire or pipe is
behind the wall.

Good luck!

Anthony

Thanks for all the information, lots to think about. Just a couple of
follow up questions. Im using 1/2" drywall and see varying
suggestions. Does it matter if I use 1 1/4 or 1 5/8 screws? Secondly,
when hanging the sheets do I have to install all the screws in each
sheet before moving to the next or can I put a few in to hold the
sheet in place then move to the next until its all up?. I plan on
driving a screw every 8 - 12 inches.
Thanks again for all the help.
John

RicodJour wrote:
....
Where do you live that you can get a 12' board into a basement? I
frequently have issues with 8 footers.

Where basements generally have walkout access is only places I've ever
considered drywall in basements, basically...

....

The OP said he doesn't care about going the full height, so there's no
reason to use 9' boards. I'm not sure where you're getting the 3-4"
thing - the room dimensions are both under a full sheet length/width.

Unless he would just like the full wall height covered, I pointed out
what many are unaware of--that there are 9' sheets available.

I was thinking in the 14' as 14 lengths and then didn't recompute when
making the comment about the short corners when suggesting the vertical
orientation, sorry...

--

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 07:32:53 -0700 (PDT), John
wrote:

In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?


I don't leave a gap between sheets, but I leave a 1/2" gap between the
bottom of the drywall and floor (not sure why, I was taught).

I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally? Is one better than the
other? The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high( I'm installing a
drop ceiling so not going to the top is not a concern)
Thanks
John

You can hang drywall vertically or horizontally. I find the vertical
method much easier, unless you have a helper to lift the drywall.

"John" wrote in message
...
In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?

I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally? Is one better than the
other? The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high( I'm installing a
drop ceiling so not going to the top is not a concern)
Thanks
John

You have received several good responses. I will add just add a couple of
points.

IMO, horizontal runs are better because it easier to finish the long taped
joint on a horizontal plane than a vertical.

Staggered butt joints are not a problem unless you make them so by applying
too much mud at one time. The first rule of drywall finishing is never get
in a hurry and glob on a lot of mud at one time. Do it in layers. Bed and
cover the tape with the mud, leave it alone until it dries or sets and then
come back to feather it out.

Personally, I use a 4" taping knife to embed the paper tape and then use a
6" knife for all the rest. I do use an IS corner tool because it allows me
finish the corners in one long stroke.

Colbyt

Phisherman wrote in
:

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 07:32:53 -0700 (PDT), John
wrote:

In getting ready to hang the drywall for my basement and just need a
few clarifications. I thought you were supposed to butt the sheets
together but I have been reading some articles that say to leave a
1/8" gap between them, which is correct?


I don't leave a gap between sheets, but I leave a 1/2" gap between the
bottom of the drywall and floor (not sure why, I was taught).

For the carpet to be tucked under. Floor molding is there but not very
thick.

Pure guess but I would think also in case of a water leak. Bad enough the
mess and damage that alone would cause but why have the drywall wick it
up as well and ruin that.


I was planning on hanging the sheets vertically, do you really cut the
number of seems in half by going horizontally? Is one better than the
other? The walls are 14.3 x 23.7 and 9 feet high( I'm installing a
drop ceiling so not going to the top is not a concern)
Thanks
John

You can hang drywall vertically or horizontally. I find the vertical
method much easier, unless you have a helper to lift the drywall.

Thanks again for all the help. Any suggestions on my follow up
question:
"Secondly,
when hanging the sheets do I have to install all the screws in each
sheet before moving to the next or can I put a few in to hold the
sheet in place then move to the next until its all up?. I plan on
driving a screw every 12 inches. "

John

On Jul 10, 9:56*pm, John wrote:
Thanks again for all the help. Any suggestions on my follow up
question:
"Secondly,
when hanging the sheets do I have to install all the screws in each
sheet before moving to the next or can I put a few in to hold the
sheet in place then move to the next until its all up?. I plan on
driving a screw every 12 *inches. "

You don't have to, but what's the advantage of not completing screwing
it off while you're still standing in front of it? It won't go any
faster by tacking it up. If you're trying to save someone else's
time, and you only have their help for a limited amount of time,
that's a different story.

R

John wrote:
Thanks again for all the help. Any suggestions on my follow up
question:
"Secondly,
when hanging the sheets do I have to install all the screws in each
sheet before moving to the next or can I put a few in to hold the
sheet in place then move to the next until its all up?. I plan on
driving a screw every 12 inches. "

As rico says, doesn't really matter so suit yourself.

The one thing avoid is getting a hump in it so start at one edge
(preferably the one next to the previous sheet) and work across and down...

--

Hi John,

I'm using 1/2" drywall
Does it matter if I use 1 1/4 or 1 5/8 screws?

The screws should penetrate at least 3/4" into the stud, so either screw
length would work fine in your situation. Use whatever is cheapest and/or
most available.

However, be sure to install steel protection plates anywhere wires or pipes
are less than an inch or so from the face of the stud. Otherwise, a longer
screw could theoretically go deep enough to pierce the wire or pipe.

when hanging the sheets do I have to install all the
screws in each sheet before moving to the next

I don't know how many screws you would have to install to hold the sheet
temporarily, but why? It's better to finish the sheet and move on to the
next so you don't forget anything. It takes the same amount of labor either
way, so finish the first job before you start a new one.

Anthony

replying to John, Iggy wrote:
I expect you're done and went with the Vertical Installation, for your own
protection and least effort. Yes, you want the seams to be tight, little to no
gap. This, is not only so you have as much stud to put screws into, but most
importantly that it provides the best fire protection. No, Horizontal
Installation is based on bold-faced *lies*, there's absolutely no benefit nor
advantage to that stupid practice. Here's exactly what's wrong with Horizontal:

1 €“ DEFECTIVE SEAM - Horizontal rows needing more than one drywall panel
CREATES (instead of AVOIDS) a butt-joint HUMP, which are NOT flat and are a
TWICE (minimum) effort DEFECT. Outlet and switch cover-plates, window and door
trim, baseboards, pictures, mirrors and cabinets dont sit flat. Using ANY
"butt-joint product" erases ALL "claimed benefits" of Horizontal!

2 €“ UNSUPPORTED SEAM €“ Horizontals tapered edge is MOSTLY unsupported,
only 10% (instead of Vertical's 100%) contacts framing, the seam WILL AND DOES
crack. Light switch and countertop electrical boxes within the seam equals
MORE weakness and butt-joint doubled, MINIMUM, efforts.

3 €“ STRUCTURAL DEFECT - Horizontal only reinforces a wall height of 4 or
less and the wall's top-plate is never connected to the bottom-plate. As in
and due to #2 above, Frictional Contact is MINIMIZED (instead of maximized by
Vertical).

4 €“ SEAM DECEPTION...(4'x8' PANELS) €“ Example 1: 48€� tall by 102€� long
wall, Horizontal = 48€� (technically) and its a 24€� wide butt-joint
(Vertical = the same, generously, 96€� but theyre easy 6€� wide joints).
Example 2: 96€� tall by 102€� long wall, Horizontal = 222€� with 50% being
24€� wide butts (Vertical = 192€� of 6€� wide easy joints, yes LESS)...in a
Kitchen Horizontal = 100% of 24€� wide butts (Vertical = 0%). Yes, Horizontal
does the taper area twice (minimum) in order to hide its butts, so very
minimally just another 24€� was added and #5 below was not factored in to
Horizontal's monumental FRAUD.

5 €“ SELF-DEFEATING ANGLES €“ Horizontal only uses ONE of a panels
tapered edges and PUTS the other taper at the ceiling corner and baseboard,
CREATING (instead of AVOIDING) a twisted angle that MUST be shimmed or
ADDITIONALLY mudded. This too, instantly ERASES ALL claimed benefits of
Horizontal! The Panels are designed to be installed Vertically!

6 €“ UNFRIENDLY SEAMS €“ Horizontal celebrates the chest height seam and
PRETENDS theres no 24€�-WIDE floor to ceiling butt-joint that needs to be
DONE AND DRY BEFORE doing the ceiling corner (Vertical has easy joints and the
top's done later with the ceiling corner).

7 - FIRE VIOLATION AND HAZARD - Horizontal only fills the coin-thin SEAM'S
FACE and has NO back-blocking, inviting smoke and fires spread, including
fuel-air for a fire's growth (Vertical is full depth and CONTINUOUSLY
airtight).

8 - UNSAFE INSTALLATION - Horizontal needs 2-PEOPLE for a safe installation
and the panel is airborne, literally CREATING the chance to CAUSE injury
(Vertical easily tilts-up with just 1-person). Panel lifters aren't even as
easy and safe as Verticals tilt-up.

9 - ADDITIONAL WASTE - When correctly covering a knee or half wall, tub front,
column or soffit by first removing both tapered edges, Horizontal CAN'T use
the tapers elsewhere (Vertical can and does).

10 - SELFISH IGNORANCE - Foundation and Framing crews go to great pains to
make everything flat, level, plumb and square. Horizontal DESTROYS those
efforts with their DEFECTIVE humps (Vertical keeps them all).

11 - GRASPING AT STRAWS WITH OUTRIGHT FRAUD - Horizontals FALSELY AND
UNKNOWINGLY wave the absurdly INVALID (FPL439) 1983 testing €œContribution of
Gypsum Wallboard to Racking Resistance of Light-Frame Walls€� by the
self-indicted fraud Ronald W. Wolfe. FPL439 found that ALL tapered or paper
wrapped edges must be FULLY INTACT for Horizontal to beat Vertical
"structurally", PERIOD. In the real-world, bottom paper wrapped edges are
REMOVED (at a minimum), BY LAW, for spacing from all floors and thereby
COMPLETELY NEGATE Wolfes inexcusably deceitful and worthless "study" and
summation.

12 - JOINT OR SEAM TREATMENT - According to the ASTM's C840, Horizontal's
joints and seams MUST be mudded to provide ANY fire, smoke and air travel
resistance. Vertical is SO GOOD that it's NOT REQUIRED to have its joints or
seams treated.

13 - FIRE RATING FRAUD - Most Single-ply or layer drywalling for Commercial
Work is required to be installed Vertically, to obtain drywall's actual fire
rating...known by the majority of builders and drywall installers. But, they
only provide Builder's Grade work, the legal minimum with the look expected by
the market. Good for the warranty term with an eternal future of patching and
fixing.

Only promote HORIZONTAL AS WRONG and confidently cite the above incontestable
FACTS.

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